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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Our spec sheet has the 2+ rated at 545lb-ft
    For the SAC unit? When I talked to them they said the SAC units hold less than the SMF units but were not really clear by how much. It sounds like 50 or so ftlbs less.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by GeorgiaTech335Coupe Click here to enlarge
    Yeah that's the one. They might try to tell you that you don't need replacing it, but since it comes with the kit it is a good idea to replace it. I'd give them a heads up that it can be a pain and to make sure they have a pilot bearing puller that is big enough. If they know that you know about it, less likely to try and get away with leaving the old one in.
    Yeah, he knows about it. I am also getting the clutch bled and he insisted on fluid swap in the trans which is good since I wanted to do that anyway.

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Have you checked the cost of living in Toronto, Canada? Click here to enlarge One of the most expensive cities to live in NA
    Haha. Well, I am satisfied. If he does a good job, I will recommend him and then I'm sure I can get DPs and other stuff in cheaper. If I had the cash now I would of done DPs at the same time since it really wouldn't add much to this install anyway.

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    For the SAC unit? When I talked to them they said the SAC units hold less than the SMF units but were not really clear by how much. It sounds like 50 or so ftlbs less.
    Single mass flywheel (SMF) has nothing do with whether the unit has a SAC mechanism or not. In terms of holding capacity of non-sac to sac I do agree with you that the SAC unit would probably hold a bit less but nothing dramatically different
    Click here to enlarge

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Single mass flywheel (SMF) has nothing do with whether the unit has a SAC mechanism or not. In terms of holding capacity of non-sac to sac I do agree with you that the SAC unit would probably hold a bit less but nothing dramatically different
    Sorry, I meant non-SAC vs SAC. Break in advice? 200 miles before beating on it?

  5. #30
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    300 miles minimum, 500miles to be sure...many people think its the "distance" to drive before beating on it...make sure you don't count any highway miles in that break-in period as it doesn't allow for proper bedding of the clutch...only count the miles on the street and do LOTS of downshifting
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    300 miles minimum, 500miles to be sure...many people think its the "distance" to drive before beating on it...make sure you don't count any highway miles in that break-in period as it doesn't allow for proper bedding of the clutch...only count the miles on the street and do LOTS of downshifting
    Yeah, I figured much street driving. Okay, I will shoot for 300 miles and go by feel. That's usually what I have done anyway in the past.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    They haven't done this car before. Normally do Nissan/Acura. All the prices around the Bay Area are based around 7.5-8 hours labor at $150/hr. Lowest quote out of the 7 others was $880, but that was in the booneys. Most were around $1200. So for me $520 is a good deal! Click here to enlarge
    be careful and make sure they use the proper bmw tools to do the install. i went to a shop that slacked off on using a bmw tool to remove some bolt thing and ended up buying me another transmission

    and drive it slow after 500 miles to break everything in
    Click here to enlarge

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    and drive it slow after 500 miles to break everything in
    After 500miles of break-in there should be no worries, give it a beating
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  10. #35
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    Install is ongoing. Shop called to alert me my shift shaft seal (item 9 below) is leaking. They will replace it now for no labor charge. They advised me this is preferable to waiting for it to worsen since it is extremely difficult to access without dropping the exhaust later. Downside is that I may not get the car till Monday. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...66&hg=23&fg=15

  11. #36
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    You should replace #7 while you're in there as well
    Click here to enlarge

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    You should replace #7 while you're in there as well
    Really? The tail shafts are know to leak too?

  13. #38
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    Rear main seal, every bmw known to man

    EDIT: Scratch that, wrong picture...i had the rear main seal in mind. However, i usually always replace any seal i can that's easy enough to get to and doesn't take a lot of time to do on things that you don't touch very often
    Click here to enlarge

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Rear main seal, every bmw known to man

    EDIT: Scratch that, wrong picture...i had the rear main seal in mind. However, i usually always replace any seal i can that's easy enough to get to and doesn't take a lot of time to do on things that you don't touch very often
    Gotcha. Ill let this one slide since its my DD and I don't think it will be an issue any time soon. Rear main is a PITA, and I'd definitely change it if the oil pan was down. Lots of cars leak there.

  15. #40
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    My car has 107,XXX on the original clutch and its now only starting to slip after being FBO + 50/50 e85 mixture. Cant wait to hear your review.. as soon as I see it ill have to make a decision on if i want to order it or not, could you pm me where you got it from? I miss being able to really get on it.. lol

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Szemenyei Click here to enlarge
    My car has 107,XXX on the original clutch and its now only starting to slip after being FBO + 50/50 e85 mixture. Cant wait to hear your review.. as soon as I see it ill have to make a decision on if i want to order it or not, could you pm me where you got it from? I miss being able to really get on it.. lol
    I ordered through Spec with a discount since the flywheel wasn't an official product when I was going through this (they sent me the very first one). I bet you Dzenno can get you an awesome price. He is a member on this forum and a Spec dealer.

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Szemenyei Click here to enlarge
    My car has 107,XXX on the original clutch and its now only starting to slip after being FBO + 50/50 e85 mixture. Cant wait to hear your review.. as soon as I see it ill have to make a decision on if i want to order it or not, could you pm me where you got it from? I miss being able to really get on it.. lol

    I'm in the same boat as you, just broke 100,000 mile mark and my clutch has been slipping pretty bad ever since I fixed my wastegate rattle. Hoping this combination doesn't chatter as much since I really don't wanna buy another DMFW.

  18. #43
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    Just got the clutch in and did the first 20 miles. No rattle in neutral when I picked it up. Now a little rattle in neutral, but its not really fair to judge yet since it is clearly breaking in. Its making all sorts of sounds and the disc is still chattering. I don't notice a big difference in inertial moment. The clutch pedal is heavier, but not much more than my old stock clutch Ford Explorer. The most surprising thing to me is that the engagement point has moved up. It was 0.5" off the floor with full engagement at 2" before. Now it feels like 1.5" off the floor with full engagement at 1.75". I think the slip window will open up as the clutch breaks in. For the time being its chattery. Should of seen me lurching all over the hills of San Francisco. I'm didn't stall though. Click here to enlarge

  19. #44
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    HAHA, I did the same thing when I put mine in. Wait till you hit the DS for the first time. Wow, I was sucking. I loved how high the engagement point was eventually. It took 700 miles I think and a night at the drag strip for my shuddering to go away. How is the clutch chatter with the AC on and in neutral?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Just got the clutch in and did the first 20 miles. No rattle in neutral when I picked it up. Now a little rattle in neutral, but its not really fair to judge yet since it is clearly breaking in. Its making all sorts of sounds and the disc is still chattering. I don't notice a big difference in inertial moment. The clutch pedal is heavier, but not much more than my old stock clutch Ford Explorer. The most surprising thing to me is that the engagement point has moved up. It was 0.5" off the floor with full engagement at 2" before. Now it feels like 1.5" off the floor with full engagement at 1.75". I think the slip window will open up as the clutch breaks in. For the time being its chattery. Should of seen me lurching all over the hills of San Francisco. I'm didn't stall though. Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    HAHA, I did the same thing when I put mine in. Wait till you hit the DS for the first time. Wow, I was sucking. I loved how high the engagement point was eventually. It took 700 miles I think and a night at the drag strip for my shuddering to go away. How is the clutch chatter with the AC on and in neutral?
    Noting when I first picked it up. Definitely hear it now with A/C on. I expect it to go down though. We will see! For the record I probably would have been totally fine with the aluminum SMF since I sally old the clutch in and I never ever run the A/C except on the hottest of hot days. I cant stand the way A/C ruins the driving dynamic. If BMW was smart, pushing the clutch in would disengage the A/C compressor...

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    The most surprising thing to me is that the engagement point has moved up. It was 0.5" off the floor with full engagement at 2" before. Now it feels like 1.5" off the floor with full engagement at 1.75". I think the slip window will open up as the clutch breaks in. For the time being its chattery. Should of seen me lurching all over the hills of San Francisco. I'm didn't stall though. Click here to enlarge
    Exactly how I felt. The first day I would rev so high before engagement. I was used to the ACT which engaged on the floor. I'm used to it now and like it much better. I did stall once I think.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    . If BMW was smart, pushing the clutch in would disengage the A/C compressor...
    Drive in FL during the summer when it is pouring rain out and you'll see why that wouldn't be such a good idea.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Noting when I first picked it up. Definitely hear it now with A/C on. I expect it to go down though. We will see! For the record I probably would have been totally fine with the aluminum SMF since I sally old the clutch in and I never ever run the A/C except on the hottest of hot days. I cant stand the way A/C ruins the driving dynamic. If BMW was smart, pushing the clutch in would disengage the A/C compressor...
    Possibility of getting a video of how bad it is soon? I want to order asap and have been anxiously waiting on your review. Click here to enlarge

  24. #49
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Szemenyei Click here to enlarge
    Possibility of getting a video of how bad it is soon? I want to order asap and have been anxiously waiting on your review. Click here to enlarge
    i would say if you have no plans of upgraded turbos stick with oem DMFW if you're concerned about chatter. If you're going to go upgraded turbos you're just going to have to live with it as there is no twin disk that people will vouch for yet.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Szemenyei Click here to enlarge
    Possibility of getting a video of how bad it is soon? I want to order asap and have been anxiously waiting on your review. Click here to enlarge
    Sure. I can take a video, but I don't know what its worth at this point. The car is making all sorts of clutch rattles beyond the neutral sound and I think it will continue to until at least a couple hundred miles. Have to let it break in before I am really pass judgment negatively. Until then benefit of the doubt. Click here to enlarge

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