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  1. #26
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    i would look into a good quality synthetic oil and possibly a better cooler to help protect at higher oil temps if your worried... I wont get into the best oil to use thats a whole other ball of wax

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Somehow I got this vision of you with wings! LMAO
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  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rdeterman Click here to enlarge
    i would look into a good quality synthetic oil and possibly a better cooler to help protect at higher oil temps if your worried... I wont get into the best oil to use thats a whole other ball of wax
    I just changed out my oil roughly 500 miles ago. Got LubroMolly 100% synthetic, german oil. Its what my local shop recommend, as i wasnt sure what to get.
    Click here to enlarge

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
    What FMIC would you recommend? I know Helix makes a good option, but its rather expensive.
    Helix FTW! If you're not tracking, any established 5" FMIC is legit -- Active Autowerke Sport, ETS, Evolution Racewerks & Evolve even makes an N54 FMIC (it's listed in the 1M section), so ask them about pricing & maybe it's somewhere in that group

    EDIT: Just saw this, but someone is parting out a Helix FMIC (http://bimmerboost.com/showthread.ph...378#post367378)
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
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  5. #30
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    Flip a coin and pick one. Personally, I would want a FMIC that replaces all the stock piping, plastic up pipe included. This automatically narrows your options to AA Sport, ETS 5 and 7, ER. ER is probably my choice, because it has the most hard piping and least silicone, great end tanks, and the core is amazing. ER uses it on their race car and never has issues, that says alot.

  6. #31
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    Totally fine man. My N54 takes a minute to reach the 200F and always stays on the 230-240F range. My N55 oil temp climbs much faster than N54 and always stays at 250F. So totally Normal.

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    Your buddy is probably confusing oil temp with coolant temp. These are not the same thing. The oil needs to hit 212F or more consistently to boil all of the water (condensation) out of the system. Failure to do this can result in sludge. 230-250 is completely normal. It isn't a coincidence the temp always goes there, there is a thermostat that is set to fully open by 250F. No point in trying to lower that with mods that ignore the thermostat since the tstat will just close more to maintain that temperature. Obviously if you add enough oil coolers at lower temp on a different circuit, you could overcome that thermostat... but why the hell would you want to?

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rdeterman Click here to enlarge
    and your water pump would have nothing to do with oil temps
    Wrong. If you own this vehicle long enough to experience water pump failure, you will see how your water pump is controlling your oil temps at ALL times. When the water pump dies, you will go from 230 to 280F in seconds!

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
    Hello All,
    Just wondering if my engine temps are normal.
    Yes, your car is in Economy mode, one of several modes, that the ecu selects from, using the water pump and electronic thermostat. At ~240 degrees, your car has the optimal oil temp for fuel economy purposes.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
    What would you assume to be the normal operating range for this engine, realistically? 200-250*F? I live in Florida, so its always hot Click here to enlarge When is the temperature dangerous? Past 250? I just seem to ALWAYS get to 230-240 really quick, and stick to that temperature. Two pulls and im at 245*F. Never go past 250, but rarely drop below 220-230-ish.
    Normal operating temps IMHO is 230-255 degrees depending on whether or not the vehicle has an oil cooler. Temps are dangerous over 290F. Robust synthetic oil can withstand 250-280 for hours without much breakdown, but oil will typically never go above 260F, unless you are racing.

    Since your car is heating up so fast, i suspect your oem thermostat is getting old. You might want to replace it, and your water pump after 70K miles. I have a low temp thermostat, so my car warms up very very slowly.

  10. #35
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    During summer(85-100 deg) my 1M would go at most 250 no matter how hard I pushed it. Now this is street pulls and not constant track use so take it for what its worth.
    ​#Chuckstrong

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    0 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    Wrong. If you own this vehicle long enough to experience water pump failure, you will see how your water pump is controlling your oil temps at ALL times. When the water pump dies, you will go from 230 to 280F in seconds!
    Not true. I had a water pump fail without an oil temp rise at all. I remember this because I couldn't believe the car had actually overheated since the oil was still 240.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    Wrong. If you own this vehicle long enough to experience water pump failure, you will see how your water pump is controlling your oil temps at ALL times. When the water pump dies, you will go from 230 to 280F in seconds!
    This is what ive heard as well, hence why i started the thread.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    Yes, your car is in Economy mode, one of several modes, that the ecu selects from, using the water pump and electronic thermostat. At ~240 degrees, your car has the optimal oil temp for fuel economy purposes.
    Normal operating temps IMHO is 230-255 degrees depending on whether or not the vehicle has an oil cooler. Temps are dangerous over 290F. Robust synthetic oil can withstand 250-280 for hours without much breakdown, but oil will typically never go above 260F, unless you are racing.
    Since your car is heating up so fast, i suspect your oem thermostat is getting old. You might want to replace it, and your water pump after 70K miles. I have a low temp thermostat, so my car warms up very very slowly.
    Thanks for the info! Im at 38k miles right now, but the car is on 07. One thing that is annoying is figuring out what parts i need to replace due to age and what parts i should replace due to wear (since i dont have a lot of miles). Ill keep the thermostat in mind.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by KB Click here to enlarge
    During summer(85-100 deg) my 1M would go at most 250 no matter how hard I pushed it. Now this is street pulls and not constant track use so take it for what its worth.
    Thats how my car currently is. Never over 250*F but never under 240*F.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Not true. I had a water pump fail without an oil temp rise at all. I remember this because I couldn't believe the car had actually overheated since the oil was still 240.
    +1
    Click here to enlarge

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Not true. I had a water pump fail without an oil temp rise at all. I remember this because I couldn't believe the car had actually overheated since the oil was still 240.
    Then your water pump did not fail, as it stop completely. No need to argue, it's in the Engine manual from BMW. The N54 regulates engine oil temps with the water pump, and thermostat, period.

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eric335 Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the info! Im at 38k miles right now, but the car is on 07. One thing that is annoying is figuring out what parts i need to replace due to age and what parts i should replace due to wear (since i dont have a lot of miles). Ill keep the thermostat in mind.
    I'm at 100K+miles, and have replaced a lot of stuff. You might not need to replace that much stuff yet, but because of the age of the car, even with low miles, you are wise to start looking into it.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    Then your water pump did not fail, as it stop completely. No need to argue, it's in the Engine manual from BMW. The N54 regulates engine oil temps with the water pump, and thermostat, period.
    Yes, it did. Total seizure of the water pump -> overheat -> almost instant limp. You aren't going to gain 50F on 7 quarts of oil with a cooler in there while on limp mode. It isn't possible considering the motor will limp long before 280F on the coolant. Think about what you are saying here. Then consider that this has actually happened to me twice. Basically what I am saying is that is not physically possible, I have real world experience that backs that up, and you are wrong.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Yes, it did. Total seizure of the water pump -> overheat -> almost instant limp. You aren't going to gain 50F on 7 quarts of oil with a cooler in there while on limp mode. It isn't possible considering the motor will limp long before 280F on the coolant. Think about what you are saying here. Then consider that this has actually happened to me twice. Basically what I am saying is that is not physically possible, I have real world experience that backs that up, and you are wrong.
    Guy, then, how do you explain what happened to me? Mine stopped working and I skyrocketed like 50F in seconds. It came back down, and I went into limp mode, but that's what happened. I was doing normal city driving at the time, i.e, not a lot of air flow through the radiator. I burned all my coolant, which till this day smells burnt, even after several flushes. The water pump and thermostat in this vehicle are the primary oil control point for the ECU.

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    Guy, then, how do you explain what happened to me? Mine stopped working and I skyrocketed like 50F in seconds. It came back down, and I went into limp mode, but that's what happened. I was doing normal city driving at the time, i.e, not a lot of air flow through the radiator. I burned all my coolant, which till this day smells burnt, even after several flushes. The water pump and thermostat in this vehicle are the primary oil control point for the ECU.
    I cant explain your experience. I wasn't there. What I can do is tell you when the engine enters warning stage 240F and full limp 257F. For you to be in full limp and then raise your coolant to a temperature high enough to lift oil temps to 280F you would have to be driving in limp for much more than a few seconds. You do realize by the way that the oil circuit is independent of the water pump and is obviously mechanically driven with its own thermostat right? The oil cooler is the main method of cooling the oil... besides convection. If the water pump goes out, the oil pump I'd till recirculating oil through the thermostat and the oil cooler...
    Last edited by rudypoochris; 12-22-2012 at 02:00 AM.

  18. #43
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    Get an @ar design add-on oil cooler. Worth the money and the temps stay consistent at 215-235. Did many a run in Mexico with 2 on customers cars and I could do several back to back runs from 10mph to 172mph (BMS SLD activated) and the temps would barely rise to 240-245, and within 1 mile of cruising they went right back down again.

    You can either ditch the factory one on the side and run just the AR one, or run it inline and have two....the AR kit itself is also made for cars that did not have a cooler and it does the job more than adequately.

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by leo985i Click here to enlarge
    Anything is better than stock. If you want some really good and cheap, go for the bigtom (Cxracing I believe) Intercooler, but you'll need to cut a lot. I personally run the ETS 5" intercooler which is good enough, and not cutting required.
    BigTom used the klracing one (think url is in one of his thread).
    Click here to enlarge
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  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rdeterman Click here to enlarge
    i would look into a good quality synthetic oil and possibly a better cooler to help protect at higher oil temps if your worried... I wont get into the best oil to use thats a whole other ball of wax
    Would a 0W-40 run cooler than a 5W-30 oil on the N54?

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    I cant explain your experience. I wasn't there. What I can do is tell you when the engine enters warning stage 240F and full limp 257F. For you to be in full limp and then raise your coolant to a temperature high enough to lift oil temps to 280F you would have to be driving in limp for much more than a few seconds. You do realize by the way that the oil circuit is independent of the water pump and is obviously mechanically driven with its own thermostat right? The oil cooler is the main method of cooling the oil... besides convection. If the water pump goes out, the oil pump I'd till recirculating oil through the thermostat and the oil cooler...
    Ok, first of all, you've never had your water pump fail twice. That's a complete fabrication. Water pumps on this vehicle have a lifespan of at least 75k miles. It takes a skilled mechanic, at least 8 hours to get to the water pump in an N54 vehicle. The water pump costs $450-600 depending on which one you get(600watts-850watts) . Mine is the 600+ watt 1M/335is water pump. If you replaced yours twice, you should be at almost 200K miles. At that mileage it would be a wonder that your thermostat is still operating (It obviously hasn't failed yet, and you didn't change it out in 200K miles despite the time and money it took you to get to the water pump, which is close to it. You're saving that for a third project, right?) So prove me wrong, and post up your work order paper work, or stop trolling.

    Now on to your other speculations. Keep in mind that I was one of the first to document and tackle the cooling issues the vehicle had, with years of racing experience under my belt. You can be at 280F oil, without being at 240F+ water. In fact at the track we all used to peg our needle at 290F+, and go into oil temp limp mode all the time. The reason for this is because air is cooling the radiator when at full speed. In stop and go, your water is at 98C or 208F, while your oil is at a typical 245F(or cooler or not). Since air isn't flowing fast through your radiator (or oil cooler if you even have one), your vehicle is entirely dependent on water pump speed to control water, and thus oil temps. So now you see that at direct relationship between oil and water pumps, which varies depending on vehicle speed.

    Yes, the oil and water have different circuits, BUT, they come in direct contact with each other at several points. The first is the engine block. When you start up your car the oil in the engine starts to get hot, and the thermostat opens to allow water to flow around the outside of the block, cooling the oil, and slowing up its warm up. So that is one point where the two fluids are touching the same metal surface, and influencing each other. Next, is the turbos which get super hot. oil and water lines run to the turbo, and are touching the exact same hot surface.
    Last edited by Turkeybaster115; 12-22-2012 at 11:14 AM.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Get an @ar design add-on oil cooler. Worth the money and the temps stay consistent at 215-235. Did many a run in Mexico with 2 on customers cars and I could do several back to back runs from 10mph to 172mph (BMS SLD activated) and the temps would barely rise to 240-245, and within 1 mile of cruising they went right back down again.

    You can either ditch the factory one on the side and run just the AR one, or run it inline and have two....the AR kit itself is also made for cars that did not have a cooler and it does the job more than adequately.
    for racing purposes of any kind, you need an oil cooler. If you are not racing, and just doing city or highway driving you don't even need one, as most didn't even come with one in the beginning. AR design is documented to be one of the weakest oil coolers for tracking, because it still uses the factory oil thermostat.

  23. #48
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    Very normal temps... the car will limp when the oil temps go in the danger zone. 270 is where it starts to get very hot and typically by 280 you are just cooking oil but the ECU will limp long before that time. Gary, r u sure about the 304 degree limp mode? That seems extremely high...
    2007 335i (100% stock with mods)

    N54 is not a German 2JZ lol

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    Look, TurkeyBaster, I am not going to argue with you. There is no point. I am not going to change your mind on this. I still maintain water pump failure is not going to take you from 230F oil to 280F oil in seconds. People can decide whichever way they please. Click here to enlarge

  25. #50
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    This engine is designed for operating temps of 240. The sooner you get there, the better, i.e. you need to have a thermostat that stays closed until 240F, for which the stock thermostat is perfect. Lower temps -> more wear. 280 would be too much, but you are far from there, so you don't have a problem.

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