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Thread: N54 top mount?

  1. #151
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    This is a little confusing to me. I called and talked to you guys a couple months back and was told it wouldn't be worth it for you guys to make them for me as they would be very expensive. This is why I went ahead and had my own made.

    He wants to sell them for more rather than saturate the market with cheap ones from you. Otherwise IDK lol.
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  2. #152
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
    He wants to sell them for more rather than saturate the market with cheap ones from you. Otherwise IDK lol.
    I didn't ask to buy a large quantity. I asked on a price for 2-4 flanges for the stage 3 prototypes. I was told it was be WAY too expensive for them to make them for me in such a small quantity. Now they have been selling them all along, and will have more in stock in a few days? As I said this is slightly confusing to me. But Im glad it worked out this way as now I have my own.

  3. #153
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    I also have tried to get flanges multiple times from ar

  4. #154
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Just a side note on the build price. Emailed Sikky cause I was curious on price for the flanges. They emailed me back and told me $550 PLUS shipping. Yes that means about $600 for just flanges. This in my book is ridiculous. Sure a billet flange looks cool. Until you cant see it anymore cause its against the head. Perfect example of over engineering. Anyone who would pay $600 bucks for some flanges I would have to question their sanity, but thats just me.
    Someone needs to start making these. Anyone?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    If you go with the proper thickness SS flange you shouldn't have any problems with warpage. Our flanges are SS water cut and welded bungs. I very well may start selling them here as soon as I get the stage 3 prototypes completed and stage 2's shipping. I will prob make a post to gauge interest in the flanges before I have them made.
    Great!

  6. #156
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    Nice project Eleventeen!

  7. #157
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    Absolutely AWESOME! Great work!

  8. #158
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    UPDATE: No tuning has been done yet as I'm currently working on a cylinder 6 misfire issue. This is something I thought I resolved with new plugs before doing the upgrade but the added flow has really brought it to light (is anyone surprised? LOL). I also replaced the coil and installed / coded a new fuel injector to no avail. Next step will be a leakdown test to make sure it's nothing mechanical. The issue is always on that one cylinder and only occurs at 6500-6800 rpm, but it is very annoying! I'm 6AT so no DMFW to worry about. I'll keep everyone updated. I'll also try to squeeze in some videos soon.

    Once I get this all figured out, I can proceed with tuning. I'm still driving the car 30+ miles a day

  9. #159
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    UPDATE: No tuning has been done yet as I'm currently working on a cylinder 6 misfire issue. This is something I thought I resolved with new plugs before doing the upgrade but the added flow has really brought it to light (is anyone surprised? LOL). I also replaced the coil and installed / coded a new fuel injector to no avail. Next step will be a leakdown test to make sure it's nothing mechanical. The issue is always on that one cylinder and only occurs at 6500-6800 rpm, but it is very annoying! I'm 6AT so no DMFW to worry about. I'll keep everyone updated. I'll also try to squeeze in some videos soon.

    Once I get this all figured out, I can proceed with tuning. I'm still driving the car 30+ miles a day
    I'd try getting the NGK 5992 plugs and gapping them down to 0.022". They're 1 step colder and many including myself and some of the Shiv's ST guys (FBIS I think) are running them on their cars without any issues. Maybe the shorter than OEM gap will help clear them up if that's what it is.

  10. #160
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    I'd try getting the NGK 5992 plugs and gapping them down to 0.022". They're 1 step colder and many including myself and some of the Shiv's ST guys (FBIS I think) are running them on their cars without any issues. Maybe the shorter than OEM gap will help clear them up if that's what it is.
    That sounds like a good idea. I noticed they had them as an option for the FFTEC kit and was wondering if they'd work better.

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    Oh I forgot, I also got a 2FBF code yesterday which is typically a HPFP code, but I would think that would cause misfires on several cylinders if that was the issue. I wonder if it may be more likely to affect cylinder 6 since it's at the end of the fuel rail?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    That sounds like a good idea. I noticed they had them as an option for the FFTEC kit and was wondering if they'd work better.
    I've done tons of runs with them. They're single prong Iridium 1 step colder than the OEM, can't hurt and can be gapped easily. Definitely a thumbs up

  13. #163
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    Oh I forgot, I also got a 2FBF code yesterday which is typically a HPFP code, but I would think that would cause misfires on several cylinders if that was the issue. I wonder if it may be more likely to affect cylinder 6 since it's at the end of the fuel rail?
    It might be the cause of it too as it may make pressure distribution irregular across the rail especially at higher RPM where the fuel demand grows larger
    Last edited by dzenno@PTF; 12-29-2012 at 06:08 PM.

  14. #164
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    I love these garage builds! Besides your misfire issue, I bet the car drives, and feels much healthier. Just curious, what did you do with the factory coolant lines that go to the stock turbos?

  15. #165
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BoostAddict Click here to enlarge
    I love these garage builds! Besides your misfire issue, I bet the car drives, and feels much healthier. Just curious, what did you do with the factory coolant lines that go to the stock turbos?
    My new turbo is also water cooled, so I had to modify the origianal lies to work on the new turbo. I cut the BMW proprietary ends off and connected them to braided 3/8" hose and added banjo fittings to the other end to connect to the Garrett. On the second set of lines that went to the rear turbo, I just cut the connections off and welded them closed to make plugs. It was much faster and cheaper than having parts custom machined.

  16. #166
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    While i agree that it causes wastegate rattle, honestly the system makes perfect sense for a car company to adopt. The way bmw designed the system virtually elminates the chances of an overboost. On the standard wastegate, a ripped vacuum line is all it takes to overboost and cause epic failure of the turbo or engine.

    Basically, the turbo will always fail "safe."
    With the computer controls they have now the DME could easily limp mode and restrict throttle to ~20% in the event of an overboost. This type of hardware failsafe is just totally unneeded.

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    BTW this is an amazing project and I look forward to any results. Would +rep you if I could. Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DallasBoosted Click here to enlarge
    With the computer controls they have now the DME could easily limp mode and restrict throttle to ~20% in the event of an overboost. This type of hardware failsafe is just totally unneeded.
    Actually, this is a good point. When going with the external wastegate, I was concerned that if anything went wrong, the DME would not be able to control a runaway boost scenario. Well as it happens, the very first day with the single turbo, I melted the boost line going to the wastegate causing boost to spike. Once DME saw excessive boost levels it triggered the 3100 boost deactivation mode and was able to limit boost to 1-2 psi even though the wastegate remained fully closed. Also, when the engine is still warming up (before the JB4 activates), it will hold the boost at stock levels until the JB4 "wakes up". This is presumably done by limiting throttle. It's good to know I can't hit 30+ psi by accident!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DallasBoosted Click here to enlarge
    BTW this is an amazing project and I look forward to any results. Would +rep you if I could. Click here to enlarge
    Thanks! It's the thought that counts.

  20. #170
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    Actually, this is a good point. When going with the external wastegate, I was concerned that if anything went wrong, the DME would not be able to control a runaway boost scenario. Well as it happens, the very first day with the single turbo, I melted the boost line going to the wastegate causing boost to spike. Once DME saw excessive boost levels it triggered the 3100 boost deactivation mode and was able to limit boost to 1-2 psi even though the wastegate remained fully closed. Also, when the engine is still warming up (before the JB4 activates), it will hold the boost at stock levels until the JB4 "wakes up". This is presumably done by limiting throttle. It's good to know I can't hit 30+ psi by accident!
    If the dme has no control over the gate it cannot directly limit boost, it most likely pulled timing and or fuel to hit a failsafe, but if a watergate is fully closed no computer will be able to directly limit it.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    If the dme has no control over the gate it cannot directly limit boost, it most likely pulled timing and or fuel to hit a failsafe, but if a watergate is fully closed no computer will be able to directly limit it.
    On an electronic throttle it can simply close the throttle, regardless of what you are doing to limit boost.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    If the dme has no control over the gate it cannot directly limit boost, it most likely pulled timing and or fuel to hit a failsafe, but if a watergate is fully closed no computer will be able to directly limit it.
    Yeah, it's just closing the throttle to limit the amount of boost the manifold sees, but it's not controlling turbo RPM.

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    Quick video of a 1st to 4th gear pull. Started on a 5mph roll going up a little over a ton. Please excuse the vertical orientation Click here to enlarge Had to hold it with one hand.


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    Quick video of a 1st to 4th gear pull. Started on a 5mph roll going up a little over a ton. Please excuse the vertical orientation Click here to enlarge Had to hold it with one hand.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0qeu4ra4QiE
    glad its running!




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    That $#@! sounds like a mean jet. Love that sound
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