Close

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 27
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23


    Yes Reputation No

    (HELP) DSC / DBC / Tire Monitoring System Error

    Car is 07' 335i

    Yesterday while driving and listening to music, the music started to "skip" and my Idrive randomly restarted, black screen and rebooted, as it happened a bunch of lights came on the dash. DSC / DBC and Tire Monitoring all popped up.

    I checked the Cobb for codes and none where present.

    Re-started the car this morning and still getting the DSC / DBC / Tire Monitoring System Error.

    Tried clearing all codes and didn't help

    What is going on.




  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    962
    Rep Points
    1,141.3
    Mentioned
    45 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    12


    Yes Reputation No
    Check your battery.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Check your battery.
    Battery is new as of 2 months ago. Could very well be though. Ill look into it thank you




  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    119,471
    Rep Points
    32,152.4
    Mentioned
    2109 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    322


    Yes Reputation No
    Moved to 3 Series.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    sorry sticky.

    thanks for moving




  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    FLORIDA BITCHES
    Posts
    247
    Rep Points
    805.2
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    9


    Yes Reputation No
    i had same problem when my serpintine belt snapped, also when my battery needed to be replaced. later had to get it coded

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Birmingham, United Kingdom
    Posts
    204
    Rep Points
    269.3
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    Yes Reputation No
    I had the same problem with a faulty ABS sensor. I used a BT Tool to scan my ABS and DTC module which showed a speed sensor fault and allowed me to check what the sensors were showing whilst the car was moving.
    Alpine White 2008 6MT 335i - Cobb AP - PTF Tuned - RB Turbos - AR DPs - VRSF 3.5" exhaust - Custom FMIC - 380mm BBK F&R - BMS DCI - M3 DCT LSD - Whiteline subframe bushes - M3 Sways and rear arms - M3 wishbones - ER CP - Spec Stage 3+ clutch and steel SMFW - AST 4100 Coilovers - UUC DSSR -UUC Black tranny mounts - TMS Alu diff bushes - Forge DVs - Aquamist HFS-4 meth - Alufelgen CS7s - BMWP V1 Steering Wheel

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    Yes Reputation No
    The resetting of your iDrive and skipping music sound like a problem with power quality. This could be excessive ripple voltage (AC present on DC supply lines) or a drop in supply voltage. Check your fuses. Monitor the AC and DC voltage of the electrical system. The AC voltage of the system should be low, like 0.25 to 0.5 volts with the car running, and damn near 0.0 volts with the car off. The six cell lead acid battery should have a nominal DC voltage of 12.6 volts after the car has been sitting for a while with the engine off. With the car running, the DC voltage should be higher, like 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

    It is possible that the event causing this resetting and skipping only happened once, but damaged things in the process which is why you still see trouble lights. However, most components of an automotive electrical system have build in protection against ripple voltage and voltage transients to prevent damage in these very scenarios.

    In addition to checking fuses and monitoring AC and DC voltage with the car on and off, you can try disconnecting the battery for a while (30+ minutes) and seeing if the lights on the dash go away.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    The resetting of your iDrive and skipping music sound like a problem with power quality. This could be excessive ripple voltage (AC present on DC supply lines) or a drop in supply voltage. Check your fuses. Monitor the AC and DC voltage of the electrical system. The AC voltage of the system should be low, like 0.25 to 0.5 volts with the car running, and damn near 0.0 volts with the car off. The six cell lead acid battery should have a nominal DC voltage of 12.6 volts after the car has been sitting for a while with the engine off. With the car running, the DC voltage should be higher, like 13.5 to 14.5 volts.

    It is possible that the event causing this resetting and skipping only happened once, but damaged things in the process which is why you still see trouble lights. However, most components of an automotive electrical system have build in protection against ripple voltage and voltage transients to prevent damage in these very scenarios.

    In addition to checking fuses and monitoring AC and DC voltage with the car on and off, you can try disconnecting the battery for a while (30+ minutes) and seeing if the lights on the dash go away.
    The skipping has happened before (twice) in the last two days. Very random.




  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NJ/Philly
    Posts
    57
    Rep Points
    122.7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    I know there was a service bulletin out for a faulty connection at the fuse panel. Call your dealer and see if your VIN falls under this TSB.
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90n52b30 Click here to enlarge
    I know there was a service bulletin out for a faulty connection at the fuse panel. Call your dealer and see if your VIN falls under this TSB.
    Faulty connections will show up randomly and intermittently. This could definitely be the cause.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NJ/Philly
    Posts
    57
    Rep Points
    122.7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I had this file on my computer. It's a compilation of a few product quality updates released from dealers. The first 2 pages refer to the issue I brought up before.

    It states the TSB covers vehicles up to 5/30/2011 but this isn't the official TSB. So there could be more limitations.

    Faulty B+ connection at fuse panel.pdf
    Click here to enlarge

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Ok so here's an update.

    Yesterday checked and tightened all connections on battery. Turned off sub's and meth and radar detector. Drove the car for 30 minutes this morning and all the lights went away.

    So, is this because the Sub's are draining the battery while driving? This has never happened in the past, and this is a new battery (as of a few months ago).

    How could I fix this?




  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    Ok so here's an update.

    Yesterday checked and tightened all connections on battery. Turned off sub's and meth and radar detector. Drove the car for 30 minutes this morning and all the lights went away.

    So, is this because the Sub's are draining the battery while driving? This has never happened in the past, and this is a new battery (as of a few months ago).

    How could I fix this?
    You performed multiple possible fixes, so I think it's unfair to say with certainty that one specific fix actually cured the problem. Add the accessories back that you disabled one by one, and if you still cannot get the problem to reoccur, chalk it up to loose connections.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    You performed multiple possible fixes, so I think it's unfair to say with certainty that one specific fix actually cured the problem. Add the accessories back that you disabled one by one, and if you still cannot get the problem to reoccur, chalk it up to loose connections.
    I think its caused from the Sub's to be honest. They drain more power then all of the others combined. And the problem has only happened when music is on.

    im not sure how to prevent it, so Im going to turn them back on and see if it happens again.




  16. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    I think its caused from the Sub's to be honest. They drain more power then all of the others combined. And the problem has only happened when music is on.

    im not sure how to prevent it, so Im going to turn them back on and see if it happens again.
    I would tend to agree with you, but adding the accessories back one by one is the only way to know for sure.

    Once you do hook up the amplifier, vary the volume and see what effect that has. Also, measure the AC and DC voltage on the car's electrical system with the subs on and off, playing loud and soft.

    You said you recently changed the battery and did not have the problem before. What kind of battery did you use? Is it the same as the one it replaced? Are you certain the capacity is the same? How is the amplifier connected to the battery?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NJ/Philly
    Posts
    57
    Rep Points
    122.7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I doubt your accessories have anything to do with this issue. Your car runs off the alternator while the engine is on. The battery does very little when the alternator takes over.

    However, both your battery and alternator are connected to the fuse panel. So I still think your connection at the fuse panel is faulty.
    Click here to enlarge

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NJ/Philly
    Posts
    57
    Rep Points
    122.7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    How much power are your amps drawing?

    I have 2, 500w RMS amps driving my under seat mid bass drivers and a 12" trunk sub. Never had any issues.
    Click here to enlarge

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Tested today, no issues after re-doing the wiring and tightening the battery.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90n52b30 Click here to enlarge
    How much power are your amps drawing?

    I have 2, 500w RMS amps driving my under seat mid bass drivers and a 12" trunk sub. Never had any issues.
    3000w for subs.




  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NJ/Philly
    Posts
    57
    Rep Points
    122.7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    Tested today, no issues after re-doing the wiring and tightening the battery.



    3000w for subs.
    RMS? lol why do you need 3000w? Anyway, Did you connect to the OEM distribution block using the OEM connectors? Or did you just force it ontop of the distribution block?
    Click here to enlarge

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90n52b30 Click here to enlarge
    RMS? lol why do you need 3000w? Anyway, Did you connect to the OEM distribution block using the OEM connectors? Or did you just force it ontop of the distribution block?
    4 Ohms: 1250 Watts

    2 12" L7's




  22. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    NJ/Philly
    Posts
    57
    Rep Points
    122.7
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    4 Ohms: 1250 Watts

    2 12" L7's
    Damn! That must be loud! Haha I know someone with a single L7 in a ported enclosure. Not sure how much power he's running to it but it's really loud
    Click here to enlarge

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Harrisburg
    Posts
    1,281
    Rep Points
    1,527.3
    Mentioned
    43 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    16


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90n52b30 Click here to enlarge
    Your car runs off the alternator while the engine is on. The battery does very little when the alternator takes over.
    I would completely agree with you if the car was stock electrically. However, there is a very large amount of current drawn by the amplifiers, and this can cause problems. The battery acts like a reservoir of power, and if the current demands of the amplifier(s) are high enough, current will flow out of the battery, as well as being supplied by the alternator. The alternator is specified for the car in stock configuration, but a very power hungry audio system has been added. If the current draw of the entire electrical system exceeds what the alternator can supply causing the voltage output of the alternator to drop below the voltage of the battery, current will flow out of the battery. If current cannot flow out of the battery fast enough (too much resistance from a bad connection), the excessive current draw by the amp would cause a voltage drop causing power quality problems to all devices connected to the power bus.

    Anyway, good to see the problem is solved.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Naples, FL
    Posts
    2,086
    Rep Points
    2,205.2
    Mentioned
    72 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    23



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90n52b30 Click here to enlarge
    Damn! That must be loud! Haha I know someone with a single L7 in a ported enclosure. Not sure how much power he's running to it but it's really loud
    Yeah lol I keep it turned down most of the time, its hard to listen to actual music with that much BASSINYOFACE

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I would completely agree with you if the car was stock electrically. However, there is a very large amount of current drawn by the amplifiers, and this can cause problems. The battery acts like a reservoir of power, and if the current demands of the amplifier(s) are high enough, current will flow out of the battery, as well as being supplied by the alternator. The alternator is specified for the car in stock configuration, but a very power hungry audio system has been added. If the current draw of the entire electrical system exceeds what the alternator can supply causing the voltage output of the alternator to drop below the voltage of the battery, current will flow out of the battery. If current cannot flow out of the battery fast enough (too much resistance from a bad connection), the excessive current draw by the amp would cause a voltage drop causing power quality problems to all devices connected to the power bus.
    Thanks I hope its solved as well, i will keep everyone updated.




  25. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Netherlands
    Posts
    6,245
    Rep Points
    6,792.4
    Mentioned
    73 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    68


    Yes Reputation No
    Double post...
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •