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  1. #26
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    Mine is a UUC evo3 with DSSR...labour is the same, its easy to change it out
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #27
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    Guess I should start looking for ways of fixing second gear then. The engagement sucks.
    John 3:16


  3. #28
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    Guess I should STOP looking for ways of fixing second gear then. The engagement sucks.
    John 3:16


  4. #29
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    I just ordered d6 atf to go with my new clutch! Click here to enlarge

  5. #30
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    I'm on my second transmission and frankly, the 1-2 shift is $#@!ty and the same between the two. 1-2 and 2-3 grinds when cold too.

  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    I'm on my second transmission and frankly, the 1-2 shift is $#@!ty and the same between the two. 1-2 and 2-3 grinds when cold too.
    How did the first transmission go out out of curiosity?

  7. #32
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    Didn't really "go". There was some grinding in 3rd gear and probably just needed an oil change. But I had a cool SA who just gave me a new (rebuilt) transmission. No complaints here. If Dzennos transmission holds fine with 640+ WTQ, that is perfectly illustrative of what these beauties can take.

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Didn't really "go". There was some grinding in 3rd gear and probably just needed an oil change. But I had a cool SA who just gave me a new (rebuilt) transmission. No complaints here. If Dzennos transmission holds fine with 640+ WTQ, that is perfectly illustrative of what these beauties can take.
    Its the same transmission as the M5 and M6. They can take a lot. Makes me wonder if those stock clutches can be used on an n54.

  9. #34
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    Has anyone tried Motul Gear 300 (75W90)? ADVAN recommended it on the other forum to reduce clutch chatter (since it's a heavier oil.) If so, how does it feel?

  10. #35
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    my experience recently. Had RP in the car and changed to D4ATF... reason was because of RPs supposedly poor reputation for longivity (or break down easier).
    The RP is much smoother, especially noticeable engaging 1st gear when stopped.
    I went with D4 thinking that the higher viscosity (than D6) would have more lubricity... but I guess there really is no relationship between the 2 (lubricity and viscosity), depends on the overall formula.

    Not sure if I will go back to RP or try something else.

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JoshBoody Click here to enlarge
    my experience recently. Had RP in the car and changed to D4ATF... reason was because of RPs supposedly poor reputation for longivity (or break down easier).
    The RP is much smoother, especially noticeable engaging 1st gear when stopped.
    I went with D4 thinking that the higher viscosity (than D6) would have more lubricity... but I guess there really is no relationship between the 2 (lubricity and viscosity), depends on the overall formula.

    Not sure if I will go back to RP or try something else.
    I am on D6 and it feels the same as stock tbh. I chose d6 due to the lower drivetrain loss being less than d4. I might try RP. Which did you use specifically?

  12. #37
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    I have never had a shifting problem
    2006 build using Oem fluid changed every 40km at 130 km currently

  13. #38
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    bringing this back... Went out to the track 2 days ago and the 1-2 shift is next to impossible to get into without grinding. Has anyone made progress on this? Ruins the entire run.

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
    bringing this back... Went out to the track 2 days ago and the 1-2 shift is next to impossible to get into without grinding. Has anyone made progress on this? Ruins the entire run.
    OEM shifter or an SSK? What tranny fluid?
    Click here to enlarge

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@PTF Click here to enlarge
    OEM shifter or an SSK? What tranny fluid?
    I'm on OEM fluid, I just ordered D4 but don't think it will do miracles.. stock everything else.
    Last edited by continue5; 08-08-2013 at 11:27 AM.

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by euro92 Click here to enlarge
    My transmission (09/2006) had an LT2 stamp so I replaced with D4. Changed fluid at 45K (planing on sending it to black stone)...No more 2nd grind. And at 10.95 a bottle (you need 2) I plan on changing every 30k. Factory fluid was something like $60 from my dealership.
    Update: 2nd gear grind still occurs under the right conditions. 5k miles later I decided to switch over to D6 to see if the thinner fluid would help alleviate the issue. It's definitely an inprovement but unfortunately I can still get 2nd to grind during extremely fast and hard shifts.

    At this point I recommend skipping D4, go straight to D6 and adjust your driving style around the 1-2 issue.

  17. #42
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    I am just curious as to what is causing it.. none of the other gears make even a hint of noise when slamming them aggressively, it is annoying as $#@! to say the least when you're at the strip. Am I doing any damage to my syncros by continuing to take it to the strip?

  18. #43
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    I lub me some redline shock proof Click here to enlarge
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  19. #44
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    Stronger mounts (engine/tranny) may help prevent twist under torque...i'll be testing some new ones pretty soon
    Click here to enlarge

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by euro92 Click here to enlarge
    Update: 2nd gear grind still occurs under the right conditions. 5k miles later I decided to switch over to D6 to see if the thinner fluid would help alleviate the issue. It's definitely an inprovement but unfortunately I can still get 2nd to grind during extremely fast and hard shifts.

    At this point I recommend skipping D4, go straight to D6 and adjust your driving style around the 1-2 issue.
    sorry to bump a old thread by any updates on how the longevity d6 fluid holds up in our MTs

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