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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigjae1976 Click here to enlarge
    Yeah but you can find more competent people with the capability to tune the car. The issue is finding someone with the expensive stuff to do it.
    Meaning the BMW specific stuff. The problem is the payback sucks on that stuff so who wants to invest in that?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    I won't have solid answers until late-March, or Early April. There are a lot of really good products coming out at that point....
    That should work out well for me. Not really expecting to see my next engine done until April/May anyway.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigjae1976 Click here to enlarge
    So to recap if I decide to keep the twinscrew...here is the list of engine parts other than OEM:

    Shrick FI Cams
    I was wondering, what cams are you going to get?
    248 intake (m52TU cam with 10mm lift) and 256 exhaust (m54 cam with 10.4mm lift)?

  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by GuidoK Click here to enlarge
    I was wondering, what cams are you going to get?
    248 intake (m52TU cam with 10mm lift) and 256 exhaust (m54 cam with 10.4mm lift)?
    Welcome.

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    Thanks. I drive a z4 3.0i with ess ts2 setup, and I'm wondering if the ts2+ would be a good upgrade in power and drivability. The TS2+ setup needs the cams I posted.
    So any experience regarding those cams is welcome.

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    I've made my decision. This was a tough one to make but I'm parting out my car. I can't justify the money I need to dump into my 330 to make it reliable. I'm seriously a little emotional as I type this...that's f'ing sad I know.

    http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=969312

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigjae1976 Click here to enlarge
    I can't justify the money I need to dump into my 330 to make it reliable.
    From where I'm sitting, that sounds like a rational decision.
    Rep Points > Posts since 2010

  7. #57
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    Click here to enlarge Your new ride will make you smile again! I hope, I dont have to part my car out either...(If I can't get it tuned and running correctly)

  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigjae1976 Click here to enlarge
    I've made my decision. This was a tough one to make but I'm parting out my car. I can't justify the money I need to dump into my 330 to make it reliable. I'm seriously a little emotional as I type this...that's f'ing sad I know.

    http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=969312
    Why not post the thread here instead of linking?

  9. #59
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    = ( sorry to hear Big Jae!
    s54door

    Click here to enlarge

  10. #60
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    The price is : $2650 shipped within the US. I don't charge extra for paypal fees...that's stupid.
    Details. This is an ultra rare Active Autowerke Stage 2 Twinscrew Supercharger. The equivalent of an ESS TS2+. I bought this used in 2008 from Garrett at UED. Had it installed on my 330 (MS45 DME) since 2008. Its run strong, had some issues at idle with surging on and off throughout the years. I'm convinced it is a software issue. Originally dyno'd at 345hp/300tq (s/c kit, cams, headers) from a baseline of 193hp/195tq with an off the shelf tune. It was rich so I'm sure there is more power to be had. I never chased it. My engine blew at the track Mar 2012 which also took out the supercharger. The compressor was replaced (not rebuilt!) with a Kenny Bell. Same case, same size but is slightly more efficient (more boost).
    Why am I selling? The 330 is not made for the track. Even moreso, an FI'd 330 is NOT made for the track. The problem is I keep the tach pinned to redline with 11lbs of boost. I'm VERY hard on the engine. Unless I go to great expense and MOST IMPORTANT find an engine builder and tuner that can work hand in hand, I'm going to be going through engines on an annual basis. I found a builder, found a tuner...I can't get past the hand in hand part. So for my wallet, sanity, peace of mind and track pleasure...I am going with an E46 M3 for my track car.

    But this setup was fantastic on the street. It was a ton of fun. I would like to return to those days but I have an E90 M3 for that now. Even on the track it was a beast. I would keep up with upgraded E9X M3s, stripped E46 M3s with 4.1 gears, C6 (non-Z06) vettes. When you added in corners, I was keeping up with a C5 vette that had a $100,000 dumped into it with slicks...I WAS ON STREET TIRES! I run with one of the faster advanced groups in TX (probably the fastest)...I would get passed MAYBE 4 times the entire weekend even if I lined up towards the front. Again, I'm usually the ONLY one (maybe 2 others) that is on street tiresw which is a severe disadvantage. After a session, I would always get, "Now that's not stock...I couldn't even catch you on the straights"...got that from a Viper driver. This was a ton of fun on the track as well and I REALLY wish I could keep this setup. At this point...I'd rather be married.
    The kit is still on the car. I should have my car back soon from its engine rebuild. It will come off with everything you need to bolt it on except for instructions. AA never published E46 specific instructions. I will document the removal as much as I can and email you E36 M3 instructions which do help.
    Tuning. You can contact AA for an off the shelf tune. I've been quoted $500 in the past. If you're in Texas, I believe Eurocharged can jail break the Simon and do a dyno tune.
    SOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSO LDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLD SOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLDSOLD
    Here is what is included:
    1.7L Kenny Belle compressor w/bracket (it has a cracked piece but not an issue)
    Laminova cores
    AA Intake manifold
    New M52 intake gaskets
    All hardware
    10psi pulley (actually does 11psi with the new compressor)
    New mechanical tensioner (important)
    2 drive belts
    AA spec'd fuel injectors
    CAI system (reuse your throttle body and MAF) with air filter
    Upper radiator hose
    Simon software flasher (throwing this in for free)
    Bypass valve + Spare (one is 9 months old, the spare is functional but could use a rebuild)
    Heat exchanger (spray painted black with radiator paint)
    Water pump + spare for heat exchanger (both work)
    Hoses for heat exchanger
    I have some FI cams in my car. You can have them as long as you provide me with OEM 330 cams and pay for the labor to change the cams out.
    Maybe this is a farewell address...it is really hard for me to do this but the time has come. I absolutely LOVE my 330 and it has so much more speed in it that I have yet to find. I really, really, really hate doing this. I think the price is fair and I do hope that this kit finds a good home. But it was F*&CKING AWESOME while it lasted. I always got out of the car with a smile on my face. For that...I think $2650 shipped is a fantastic price!
    A pic of the engine bay
    Click here to enlarge
    Here are some action videos...




  11. #61
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    You should make a classifieds post...

  12. #62
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    For some reason...I copied the wrong post.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    You should make a classifieds post...
    As I've progressed in my track driving, I'm now running in the advanced groups for DE/track days. I keep the needle pinned to the redline for 15-20 minutes at a time. While my 330 proved to be pretty damned quick, it just won't hold up. So I'm said bye-bye to my supercharged 2004 330Ci which had almost everything under the sun! Unfortunately, I've also learned a LOT of hard and expensive lessons which will not be repeated.
    I addressed the major issues. Rear subframe was reinforced and had PF bushings. The cooling system had the zionsville aluminum radiator and expansion tank, SPAL fan, and Stewart pump. Only plastic were the hose fittings and the thermostat housing. The oil pump had the VAC pressed on shaft/sprocket which was later welded, ATI damper, S54 chain tensioner. I also fitted an oil cooler. So the car had reliable parts.
    The story goes I lost the oil pump nut back in March 2012 at the track. Side note, if anyone thinks you'll save the engine when your oil pump nut comes off...you are sadly mistaken. I was going into a turn and I heard a sickening crunching sound. Rod #6 blew out both sides of the block. Like an idiot, I didn't disengage the tranny (mostly because I was $#@!ting myself) and locked up the engine which then threw metal up through the head into the compressor. Also blew the starter out of the bell housing. So...new block, head job, new S/C/ compressor, new transmission (could have just swapped the bellhousing but the 2nd gear synchro was iffy). Also installed all of the other crap.
    Lesson...find an engine builder before you blow up your engine. If you ever find and engine builder or a tuner that says they can build engines and tune them? Run away. Ain't no f'ing way in hell one guy can do both. Its just way too much. The key is to find an engine builder that uses a good machine shop and then a tuner who can work with your engine builder.
    Back to my saga. I just wanted to get the f'ing thing fixed. Didn't really do my research which ended up costing me. After much incompetence, on track break downs and trial and error...my VAC oil pump shaft shears off...taking another engine down after 5 months. The shop, to its credit, rebuilt another motor using some lessons learned (most of which I already told them about). But to make an FI'd M54B30 reliable for long term track use just doesn't make sense. Estimate about $10,500 in engine building, parts, stand along, tuning, and labor...
    On top of the incompetence, the MS45 DME is a total PIA and it so limited in its capability.
    $4500 - Forged rods, forged low CP pistons, customer provided block/crank
    $1000 - Install engine
    $3000 - Stand alone ECU
    $2000 - Install ECU
    $10,500 total
    So lessons learned....
    First, off the shelf F/I kits are not made for the track. You're wasting your money. With the exception of ESS, other tuners are in a dyno # war. So their kits will push the edge of the envelopes. Many DO advertise their kits being used on the track which is total crap. Go to the track, see how many off the shelf kits you see there and keep running. Might see some novices but I have seen ONE F/I'd non-M or even an M3 of any generation last. Most realize its too expensive...or you don't really get the advertised power in that environment. For the street? They work. On the track? Nope...at least you'll need to spend a lot of get it back up to that level of power. I'm willing to bet that you're WAY down on power at the end of the day because its heatsoaked so bad. If any FI company claims other wise...let me test one of their cars. I bet you I can get it to heatsoak after 25 minutes.
    Second, thicker head gaskets to drop compression is a disaster in the waiting. The critical spec for FI is the referred to as the squish height or the clearance between the valves and the piston head. It is absolutely critical to get that right. If not, you'll run a higher risk for detonation. Its the cylinder walls and metal that keeps the unburnt fuel cooled. So as you increase the clearance between the head and the piston head, more fuel is suspened in air, which is actually the hot part. So the fuel eventually detonates instead of being cooled and expelled through the exhaust. So most tuners see the detonation so what do they do? Add fuel and pull timing. This then makes the problem EVEN worse. So the tune is leaning on the knock sensors to save the engine. If you take the knock sensors out, your engine would come apart.
    Third, choose your tuner carefully. They must monitor more parameters than AFRs and timing on a dyno. You have to create a harmonious relationship between your engine builder and tuner if that does not exist.
    I really don't care if this hurts a company's feelings. Yes, I had an AA Twinscrew supercharger. It is what it is. I 100% agree that these kits are safe for the car in a street environment, they will last long, and be reliable. I am NOT arguing that claim. Never had a problem with the kit before I really started running it hard on the track. It even did well with light track use. BUT...if you think you are going to run One Lap of America, do 6+ DE's per year and have the engine last 2+ years? I think you'll end up disappointed and ripe for a breakdown. If you want to track the car frequently...get an E46 M3 and keep it NA. Why am I putting this out there? I think its a disservice to this community not to. The point is to share.
    I wouldn't hesitate to bolt on an AA, ESS, VF, TT, or HPF kit on my street car. Won't ever do it for a track car. Then again, what's the point of having a 400hp car to drive on the street?
    Most have probably seen this...I'm in the blue car in front...

    I will admit...this car was F'ING FUN




  13. #63
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Basically a run down of all of my findings...

    The official remembrance pics of this beast.

    A little sideways perhaps???
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigjae1976 Click here to enlarge
    For some reason...I copied the wrong post.



    As I've progressed in my track driving, I'm now running in the advanced groups for DE/track days. I keep the needle pinned to the redline for 15-20 minutes at a time. While my 330 proved to be pretty damned quick, it just won't hold up. So I'm said bye-bye to my supercharged 2004 330Ci which had almost everything under the sun! Unfortunately, I've also learned a LOT of hard and expensive lessons which will not be repeated.
    I addressed the major issues. Rear subframe was reinforced and had PF bushings. The cooling system had the zionsville aluminum radiator and expansion tank, SPAL fan, and Stewart pump. Only plastic were the hose fittings and the thermostat housing. The oil pump had the VAC pressed on shaft/sprocket which was later welded, ATI damper, S54 chain tensioner. I also fitted an oil cooler. So the car had reliable parts.
    The story goes I lost the oil pump nut back in March 2012 at the track. Side note, if anyone thinks you'll save the engine when your oil pump nut comes off...you are sadly mistaken. I was going into a turn and I heard a sickening crunching sound. Rod #6 blew out both sides of the block. Like an idiot, I didn't disengage the tranny (mostly because I was $#@!ting myself) and locked up the engine which then threw metal up through the head into the compressor. Also blew the starter out of the bell housing. So...new block, head job, new S/C/ compressor, new transmission (could have just swapped the bellhousing but the 2nd gear synchro was iffy). Also installed all of the other crap.
    Lesson...find an engine builder before you blow up your engine. If you ever find and engine builder or a tuner that says they can build engines and tune them? Run away. Ain't no f'ing way in hell one guy can do both. Its just way too much. The key is to find an engine builder that uses a good machine shop and then a tuner who can work with your engine builder.
    Back to my saga. I just wanted to get the f'ing thing fixed. Didn't really do my research which ended up costing me. After much incompetence, on track break downs and trial and error...my VAC oil pump shaft shears off...taking another engine down after 5 months. The shop, to its credit, rebuilt another motor using some lessons learned (most of which I already told them about). But to make an FI'd M54B30 reliable for long term track use just doesn't make sense. Estimate about $10,500 in engine building, parts, stand along, tuning, and labor...
    On top of the incompetence, the MS45 DME is a total PIA and it so limited in its capability.
    $4500 - Forged rods, forged low CP pistons, customer provided block/crank
    $1000 - Install engine
    $3000 - Stand alone ECU
    $2000 - Install ECU
    $10,500 total
    So lessons learned....
    First, off the shelf F/I kits are not made for the track. You're wasting your money. With the exception of ESS, other tuners are in a dyno # war. So their kits will push the edge of the envelopes. Many DO advertise their kits being used on the track which is total crap. Go to the track, see how many off the shelf kits you see there and keep running. Might see some novices but I have seen ONE F/I'd non-M or even an M3 of any generation last. Most realize its too expensive...or you don't really get the advertised power in that environment. For the street? They work. On the track? Nope...at least you'll need to spend a lot of get it back up to that level of power. I'm willing to bet that you're WAY down on power at the end of the day because its heatsoaked so bad. If any FI company claims other wise...let me test one of their cars. I bet you I can get it to heatsoak after 25 minutes.
    Second, thicker head gaskets to drop compression is a disaster in the waiting. The critical spec for FI is the referred to as the squish height or the clearance between the valves and the piston head. It is absolutely critical to get that right. If not, you'll run a higher risk for detonation. Its the cylinder walls and metal that keeps the unburnt fuel cooled. So as you increase the clearance between the head and the piston head, more fuel is suspened in air, which is actually the hot part. So the fuel eventually detonates instead of being cooled and expelled through the exhaust. So most tuners see the detonation so what do they do? Add fuel and pull timing. This then makes the problem EVEN worse. So the tune is leaning on the knock sensors to save the engine. If you take the knock sensors out, your engine would come apart.
    Third, choose your tuner carefully. They must monitor more parameters than AFRs and timing on a dyno. You have to create a harmonious relationship between your engine builder and tuner if that does not exist.
    I really don't care if this hurts a company's feelings. Yes, I had an AA Twinscrew supercharger. It is what it is. I 100% agree that these kits are safe for the car in a street environment, they will last long, and be reliable. I am NOT arguing that claim. Never had a problem with the kit before I really started running it hard on the track. It even did well with light track use. BUT...if you think you are going to run One Lap of America, do 6+ DE's per year and have the engine last 2+ years? I think you'll end up disappointed and ripe for a breakdown. If you want to track the car frequently...get an E46 M3 and keep it NA. Why am I putting this out there? I think its a disservice to this community not to. The point is to share.
    I wouldn't hesitate to bolt on an AA, ESS, VF, TT, or HPF kit on my street car. Won't ever do it for a track car. Then again, what's the point of having a 400hp car to drive on the street?
    Most have probably seen this...I'm in the blue car in front...
    http://youtu.be/okAclvZlG2g
    I will admit...this car was F'ING FUN
    http://youtu.be/GRheCnz0y3w
    http://youtu.be/URIHXiNzMSs
    http://youtu.be/sNTy0uGykRk
    http://youtu.be/IRw2LH_QCc4
    Looks like tons of fun and tons of effort put in.

  15. #65
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Looks like tons of fun and tons of effort put in.
    Yes to both! As I drive the 330 NA...its about 80% of the fun which is good enough for me. And hopefully the next guy when I sell it. Click here to enlarge

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