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  1. #1
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    Help, 335i differential C-clip secret sauce?

    I cannot for the life of me get the first c-clip off the diff. I'm in the middle of a Wavetrac install. Has anyone had trouble with these c-clips? I've never had this kind of trouble before, even on axles.

    I'm able to work screwdrivers in the sides and wedge it in some, but my 12" needle nose pliers will NOT hold onto it. It seems to be a very heavy duty clip. And I know that as soon as I get the first clip, the second will be a breeze since there will be no load on it.

    Any help? Tips? I've already busted up my knuckles pretty bad, going to have a nice scar on the middle finger knuckle.

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    Bump, somebody help him. Maybe @rick@defiv

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    http://i745.photobucket.com/albums/x...SCN2572150.jpg

    There appears to be a special tool for this. Maybe contact VAC?

    You could also try to grind little notches into a set of needle nose pliers so the jaws won't pop off the holes in the ring as you compress the handles.

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    Embedded:

    Click here to enlarge

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    I managed to find some heavy duty retaining ring tools at McMaster-Carr, P/Ns 5538A11, and 5410A81. They are pricy. I would definitely try putting small notches in a pair of needle nose pliers first. They don't have to be deep notches, just enough for the jaws not to slip off.

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    Thanks everyone.

    I may try the grinding of the pliers, but first I'm going to try a second set of pliers. My first pliers to pinch the c-ring is a 45-deg pair, the second set is a 90-deg pair that I will use to pin behind and under the c-ring as it is being pinched by the first pair. If that works I should be able to reduce the amount of force needed to pinch the ring together and use the 90-deg pliers as leverage to pop it out.

    I wish I had known that there was a special tool for this Click here to enlarge FML

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    I picked up a set of 90deg pliers from Lowes and got the ring out in about 2 minutes. Evidently, the 90deg angle was a much more stable angle than the 45deg was. I had no issue pinching the ring in and working a screwdriver around the edges to pop it out from the recess.

    Diff is out and being taken to a shop to have the races yanked and ring gear removed and placed onto the Wavetrac (I'm not allowed to buy anything else from Lowes until after xmas according to the gf).

    Thanks all, I appreciate it!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sered Click here to enlarge
    I picked up a set of 90deg pliers from Lowes and got the ring out in about 2 minutes. Evidently, the 90deg angle was a much more stable angle than the 45deg was. I had no issue pinching the ring in and working a screwdriver around the edges to pop it out from the recess.

    Diff is out and being taken to a shop to have the races yanked and ring gear removed and placed onto the Wavetrac (I'm not allowed to buy anything else from Lowes until after xmas according to the gf).

    Thanks all, I appreciate it!
    So go to Home Depot?

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    Sounds good. This is encouraging because I have a Wavetrac waiting to be installed. Let us know if you need to get new c clips to set proper backlash.

    Are you doing anything to the diff to sub frame mounting bushings while you have it out?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    Sounds good. This is encouraging because I have a Wavetrac waiting to be installed. Let us know if you need to get new c clips to set proper backlash.

    Are you doing anything to the diff to sub frame mounting bushings while you have it out?
    Not touching the sub-frame mounting bushings. It was either those or the M3 front LCAs and I chose the latter for this round. When installing the rear bushings, I won't need to drop the diff or anything; that will probably be far easier to do. I may just do the bushing inserts instead of the entire bushing, I haven't decided yet.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sered Click here to enlarge
    Not touching the sub-frame mounting bushings. It was either those or the M3 front LCAs and I chose the latter for this round. When installing the rear bushings, I won't need to drop the diff or anything; that will probably be far easier to do. I may just do the bushing inserts instead of the entire bushing, I haven't decided yet.
    I mean the bushings that mount the differential carrier to the sub-frame, not the ones for mounting the sub-frame to the chassis.

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I mean the bushings that mount the differential carrier to the sub-frame, not the ones for mounting the sub-frame to the chassis.
    Ah, I gotcha. No, I've got those on a list, but they're further down the list.

    Current suspension list:
    Front LCAs
    Rear Control Arms/Subframe bushings
    Differential bushings + Misc

    FWIW, the diff was VERY easy to remove. The hardest part for me was removing the driveshaft nut, and that was because I've got the car on ramps. I didn't need to remove the exhaust or anything. This is definitely one of the easier cars I've worked on Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by Sered; 12-11-2012 at 02:51 PM.

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