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Thread: Stage 3 update

  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by blisstik Click here to enlarge
    Want: this setup. Need: CF drivelines, axles, wheel hop fix, 2step, 17" + DRs. LATTTTTTTTTTTTER.
    Pretty much, BUT you could run lower PSI as you built the car, then just re-tune




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    I like the manifolds; they are simple and will be very effective. Based on the photos, it appears you used 1.5" schedule 10 or 40 tubes. I can tell you are definitely aiming for some serious power, because that's A LOT of flow potential (800+ hp)!

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    I wonder what is the inner diameter of the primaries.

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    O2 sensors post turbo? With the turbines the way they are it looks like it'd be a lot easier to merge them into 1 pipe and maybe have a splitter downstream to join up to stock exhausts. But I dont think that will work from a tuning perspective.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mj6234 Click here to enlarge
    O2 sensors post turbo? With the turbines the way they are it looks like it'd be a lot easier to merge them into 1 pipe and maybe have a splitter downstream to join up to stock exhausts. But I dont think that will work from a tuning perspective.
    Not merging the DP's, and yes O2's should ALWAYS be run post turbo

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    5 out of 5 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I totally agree. I am an idiot and thought I read the O2 sensors were somehow integrated into the stock manifolds. But I am dumb and forgot that the stock/aftermarket DPs have 4 bungs in them.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mj6234 Click here to enlarge
    I totally agree. I am an idiot and thought I read the O2 sensors were somehow integrated into the stock manifolds. But I am dumb and forgot that the stock/aftermarket DPs have 4 bungs in them.
    Don't be so hard on yourself, repped lol.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 654 Click here to enlarge
    I wonder what is the inner diameter of the primaries.
    If it's schedule 10 (most likely), the actual inner diameter is 1.68". If it's schedule 40, the internal diameter is 1.61". Outter diameter would be 1.90" either way.

  9. #34
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    The devil is in the details (piping and fitment) but looks promising!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by yandyr Click here to enlarge
    Great stuff, I'm glad my stockers were fixed so now I can hold off and wait to see.
    In the same shoes. Stockers replaced, but if development on these has progressed enough come April...I might throw these on for battle against the ESS SC M3s, GTRs, 99XTTs, etc.
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DefactoM6 Click here to enlarge
    In the same shoes. Stockers replaced, but if development on these has progressed enough come April...I might throw these on for battle against the ESS SC M3s, GTRs, 99XTTs, etc.
    Turbo the M6, and rape those. Click here to enlarge

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    Looking great, love the fact that you went v-band on the hot sides Click here to enlarge
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  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Eleventeen Click here to enlarge
    If it's schedule 10 (most likely), the actual inner diameter is 1.68". If it's schedule 40, the internal diameter is 1.61". Outter diameter would be 1.90" either way.
    He stated that it was 1.5" on the "other site".

    FWIW:

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RobBeck
    Looks pretty sweet. Couple questions:
    1) What size are those primaries? I'd think 1.5" or 1.625" at biggest would be ideal. Those look to be perhaps 1.75".
    2) The rear turbo compressor outlet, is that where it is going to be orientated when said and done? Thinking not as not only does it point directly to the subframe (when installed) the WG actuator would not have a very sound mounting point.
    3) What kind of clearance is left behind the rear turbo down pipe outlet? Enough to keep the original water plumbing intact to the block, or will that be custom?
    4) How does the clearances look behind the front turbo? Enough room to get the actuator in place?
    5) Have you tried installing the motor mount and is everything clearing? Or will it need replacing or clearancing?
    6) Will the original engine block heat shields still work with this or will the need to be discarded or new ones fabricated?
    7) What's the plan on the rear induction tube, as in how do you plan on routing it?
    Keep up the good work.
    Rob
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Vargasturbotech
    1. 1.5"
    2. Orientation is not in final position
    3. Plenty, just doesn't look like it in the pic
    4. Yes
    5. Manifolds were built with motor mount in place. Subframe has been installed. All clears with no modifications
    6. Heat shields should work
    7. induction and charge piping will be designed after the downpipes are finished

  14. #39
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    Tony said the final kit will look different. Perhaps the inner diameter will be 1.5" in the final kit?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dontask Click here to enlarge
    if only they'd fit the rhd cars! Click here to enlarge
    Exactly where on the setup fouls? I know its a probable steering rack, but which part of the turbo or intake?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    He stated that it was 1.5" on the "other site". FWIW:
    I stated they were 1.5" weld els not 1.5" ID, to my knowledge there is no Weld el with an ID of 1.5". A 1.25" Weld el has a 1.39" ID and these are 1.5" Schedule 10's this makes the ID 1.60".

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    Exactly where on the setup fouls? I know its a probable steering rack, but which part of the turbo or intake?
    Ship me a right hand drive car and we can find out. Until then its just speculation. I can say right now after getting all the oil and water lines finished. From what I can tell If there is ANYTHING else in the way besides what is already here. This will not fit. This means a steering shaft, etc etc etc, anything. But as I said in the past where there is a will there is a way. But obviously a right hand drive car would need to be on hand for testing.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    I stated they were 1.5" weld els not 1.5" ID, to my knowledge there is no Weld el with an ID of 1.5". A 1.25" Weld el has a 1.39" ID and these are 1.5" Schedule 10's this makes the ID 1.60".
    Ah, isn't NPS non dimensional? When he asked and you put the dimension on I thought you were saying it was 1.5" ID. Didn't know you meant 1.5 NPS.

    Either way, we now have an answer. 1.5 NPS Schedule 10. ID of 1.68".

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VargasTurboTech Click here to enlarge
    Ship me a right hand drive car and we can find out. Until then its just speculation. I can say right now after getting all the oil and water lines finished. From what I can tell If there is ANYTHING else in the way besides what is already here. This will not fit. This means a steering shaft, etc etc etc, anything. But as I said in the past where there is a will there is a way. But obviously a right hand drive car would need to be on hand for testing.
    One day.. :p.. Get a large enough group buy and sort something out? Hah, i doubt there'll be a massive market for them in the near future exactly

    I look forward to detailed pics when the kit is fully made, either way.. I just have trouble imagining how it all fits in, or EXACTLY how much larger the housing is than stock turbos lol

    i just hate the idea of the only way for me to get BIG power to be a single setup, or pushing the stage 2's really hard hah

  20. #45
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    Is there a possibility of making a kit paired with bigger inlet pipes too?

    I can't wait to see dyno results of the stage 3 paired with some PTF tuning and headwork done!
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    Great work Tony! Can't wait to see the #'s.

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