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Thread: Wavetrac Break In - Pic

              
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    Wavetrac Break In - Pic

    Evening.

    See that little gold stub? That's a mag plug. The rest is not part of the plug. First 5000km flush. Thoughts? Probably going to borescope it soon.

    Click here to enlarge

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    Those look like very fine filings stuck to the magnet. Are there any chunks in there? I would suck out the current fluid and replace it with fresh. Clean off the magnet and check back in a couple thousand kms.

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    Sounds like wavetrac owners need to flush their fluid after break in a little sooner. and put big magnets inside.
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
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    Sounds like wavetrac owners need to flush their fluid after break in a little sooner. and put big magnets inside.
    Sure looks like it but it's normal to have shavings. Just not sure if it is normal to have that many.

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    It's all 2D shavings. I expected some during break in, but not that many and if I saw this at an engine at work, I'd have them pull it and disassemble it completely. With the OEM backplate, I had to suck out the fluid with a transfer pump and I bet the resivoir was still littered with shavings. Probably going to check once a week or two for a bit and see if it gets worse. This is more of a reminder for the LSD owners with stock housings to change oil more frequently because the unit runs so much hotter than OEM.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
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    It's all 2D shavings. I expected some during break in, but not that many and if I saw this at an engine at work, I'd have them pull it and disassemble it completely. With the OEM backplate, I had to suck out the fluid with a transfer pump and I bet the resivoir was still littered with shavings. Probably going to check once a week or two for a bit and see if it gets worse. This is more of a reminder for the LSD owners with stock housings to change oil more frequently because the unit runs so much hotter than OEM.
    I'd suggest a diff oil change every 30,000km.
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    Best diff fluid on the market for such heavy duty applications (Trucks, etc) is royal purple. It sure is VERY expensive, but worth every penny. Good info here, since I didn't realize how hot that LSD gets, and since it's my next mod, I'm going to have to use royal purple, not the lubro-molly, I'm currently getting away with.

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    Is there any aftermarket option for a diff cover that has a drain plug at the bottom and has cooling fins integrated? Could be a good thing to put in on the LSD equipped differentials as it will aid in cooling and make changing the fluid a whole lot easier.

    EDIT: Did a quick search and found this offering from VAC http://store.vacmotorsports.com/vac-...e93-p2493.aspx Pretty pricey option, but it seems to be the only one out there.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
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    Best diff fluid on the market for such heavy duty applications (Trucks, etc) is royal purple. It sure is VERY expensive, but worth every penny. Good info here, since I didn't realize how hot that LSD gets, and since it's my next mod, I'm going to have to use royal purple, not the lubro-molly, I'm currently getting away with.
    What is the best fluid (whether motor oil, tranny fluid, brake, etc.) is sort of like arguing over religion. Lot's of good options out there and they'll do the job provided you get the right spec and change it at proper intervals.

    I've heard good things about Royal Purple, but most of the road racers I know run Motul -- which is what I run.

    Neil

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    Yea, oil sheer turned the oil black as night within 4000km. Whether the diff is eating itself or breaking in is another issue all together.

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    I am a fan of SWEPCO. Its what I will be using in my competition clutch type rear end 240Z.

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    Wavetrac sent me a page recommending Motul 75W90 or 75W140 when I got my differential. Any good oil should work, however. Just make sure it does not have friction modifiers.

    How hot is your diff getting? I was under the impression that a helical gear LSD shouldn't get much hotter than an open diff. A clutch type LSD will get hot, however, due to the friction between the plates.

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    @Tzu what fluid used? Did you report it to the WT folks? (Don't want to risk your 'warranty'.)
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    Redline 75W90NS. Widely reported as a recommended fluid, so I went with it. You have to keep in mind that without a proper drain, particulate is trapped in there unless you have a magnet to pull it out. I'll email wavetrac when I have some time, but for now I'm going to keep pulling the plug and see if the amount of particulate reduces. I also have a mag plug in my oil pan and the first time I pulled it there was tons of $#@! on it, and it subsequently reduced with every oil change. Suspect original break in metallic flakes which were slowly caught. Flakes existed when I pulled it from the OEM diff for the LSD swap, and then this. Not a big deal yet guys, just a warning to all to change fluid regularly, and grab a mag plug if you can. I swear by mag plugs.

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    Thanks, I'll look into mag plugs for my trans, engine and diff Click here to enlarge Let us know how your next changes go!
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MDORPHN Click here to enlarge
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    What is the best fluid (whether motor oil, tranny fluid, brake, etc.) is sort of like arguing over religion. Lot's of good options out there and they'll do the job provided you get the right spec and change it at proper intervals.
    I strongly beg to differ on this one Niel. Spend some time on an oil forum if you have the chance, because you will learn a lot. There is fluid, and then there is FLUID. Take trans for example. When tested for certification, they all fall into different categories. Take ZF for instance. There is a HUGE difference between a fluid rated TE-ML 14A, and one rated TE-ML 14C. Big difference in drain interals, and usage applications. So, no, one size fits all, definitely does not apply to all fluids.

    Getting back to diff oils. Take Mobil 1 75W-90 vs Royal purple 75W-90 for instance. Both oils are synthetic based, and are of good quality. Besides the big price difference, take a look at the specs. The Royal purple has a much higher viscosity at high temps, and thus, will protect much better. There is a reason why, most Ford truck guys use the stuff in their heavy duty diffs.

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    Oh no, not another oil discussion Click here to enlarge OEM, and if you must change it, well, just stay with OEM Click here to enlarge
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    People like Niel are the reason why the folks at marketing enjoy their jobs so much. For instance: which of the following marketing terms used on bottle labels, indicates a synthetic oil:

    -Synthetic blend
    -Synthetic technology
    -Full synthetic
    -Fully Synthetic
    -100% synthetic
    -semi-synthetic
    Click here to enlarge

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    Yes, of course.

    But I don't go just on specs and marketing. For instance, I regularly have my motor oil analyzed by Blackstone and I'm a regular on Bob's the Oil Guy.

    I also spend anywhere between 35-45 days/year driving and instructing at road race courses and spend alot of time talking to fellow track junkies about how they maintain their cars.

    I'm simply taking exception to your statement about Royal Purple being the "best." Certainly better than Mobil 1, but don't think you could make that case relative to Motul's excellent gear oils.

    Show me some hard data to back that up and I might be persuaded.

    Neil

    P.S. I'm not going to be drawn into a personal fight about this, despite your posting about "people like Neil."
    Last edited by MDORPHN; 11-27-2012 at 05:06 PM.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MDORPHN Click here to enlarge
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    P.S. I'm not going to be drawn into a personal fight about this, despite your posting about "people like Neil."
    You've fought well with me in the past on the other forum, about my aftermarket whaler thermostat, being "failed open", or not making any significant difference in temps at the track. It's been more than 20K miles, since those discussions, and I'm sure I would be able to tell by now, if my there was a problem with my vehicle's thermostat. Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
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    Flakes existed when I pulled it from the OEM diff for the LSD swap, and then this. Not a big deal yet guys, just a warning to all to change fluid regularly, and grab a mag plug if you can. I swear by mag plugs.
    Is the OEM plug not magnetic already? Otherwise, where did you get your mag plug?
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    Correction MDorphin: Big power diesel boys are using Amsoil, Kendall and Shaefer for their crankcase, drivetrain, Tcase, Trans and Diffs. Not RP. Your point still holds water however.
    Last edited by MisterEm; 11-27-2012 at 07:05 PM. Reason: fat thumbed the phone

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    Damn I need to flush mine, I am over 20k miles and never flushed it. Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nitehawk Click here to enlarge
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    Is the OEM plug not magnetic already? Otherwise, where did you get your mag plug?
    I rarely ever see mag plugs from the factory, only on commercial applications. Check out GoldPlug. I got the trans, oilpan and diff as the first "mods" for my car. Stay away from the blue painted one from ECS I think it was. If anyone cares for an update, I pulled the plug last night (200km) and it was pretty clean. We'll see how it looks after some snow drifting.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
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    I rarely ever see mag plugs from the factory, only on commercial applications. Check out GoldPlug. I got the trans, oilpan and diff as the first "mods" for my car. Stay away from the blue painted one from ECS I think it was. If anyone cares for an update, I pulled the plug last night (200km) and it was pretty clean. We'll see how it looks after some snow drifting.
    why not the ECS blue plug? I have it waiting for next oil change to install.

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