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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by M3GTtt Click here to enlarge
    Chargepiping (forced air from turbos to the intake manifold via the Intercooler) needs to be compleatly air-tight,, so NO PLAY at all. I am pretty sure that the BMW ECU will go into limp mode if the engine starts to run lower than 0.8 Lambda (even higher) and therefore you will never hear the turbos spooling for real because your ignition will be cut as soon as the ECU reads "richer than normal" conditions.
    On the MSD80/81 it actually runs closed loop fueling, so it will keep the AFR on target. But it will limp within a few seconds of not seeing anticipated boost, and throw an underboost code 30FE followed by boost system deactivated code 3100.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    On the MSD80/81 it actually runs closed loop fueling, so it will keep the AFR on target. But it will limp within a few seconds of not seeing anticipated boost, and throw an underboost code 30FE followed by boost system deactivated code 3100.
    Ok, but in any case any major (or minor for that matter) deviation from the expected value will trigger limp mode and error codes.

    I'm almost 100% sure you have blown a chargepipe hose.
    1995 BMW M3GT nr:111/350 TwinTurbo and some other mods.

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by M3GTtt Click here to enlarge
    Ok, but in any case any major (or minor for that matter) deviation from the expected value will trigger limp mode and error codes.

    I'm almost 100% sure you have blown a chargepipe hose.
    Either that or a vacuum line popped off somewhere, i was pulling my hair out trying to diagnose an underboost condition and it turned out a vacuum line had came off the lower nipple on one of the vacuum canisters.
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  4. #29
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Found issue:

    vacuum line no 8 near to bumper not connectet:
    Click here to enlarge


    to wastegatesocket of turbocharger to front bumper:
    Click here to enlarge

    I fumbled over one hour to get it on.
    It is so damn tight to get there and of course to get it over the socket cause there absolutely no room for moving ur hand and fingers!

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Kollegga Click here to enlarge
    Found issue:

    vacuum line no 8 near to bumper not connectet:
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...2/10/284-1.png


    to wastegatesocket of turbocharger to front bumper:
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...2/10/317-1.png

    I fumbled over one hour to get it on.
    It is so damn tight to get there and of course to get it over the socket cause there absolutely no room for moving ur hand and fingers!
    Wow!! How could that possibly come off? I haven't found the issue on my car yet Click here to enlarge
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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    Wow!! How could that possibly come off? I haven't found the issue on my car yet Click here to enlarge
    Did you get this resolved?
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  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    Did you get this resolved?
    Nope. Car is sitting in my garage now. Next weekend a mechanically skilled friend will help me troubleshoot some more. I hope I don't have to dealer the car...oh well.

    Fortunately I just bought a 150hp Opel Astra Diesel for daily driving. So over the winter I can mod the car some more: RB Turbos, tranny cooler and roll cage. Plenty of stuff to do before next year's tracking season starts Click here to enlarge (and I hopefully get to drive on the Spa circuit!)
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  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    On the MSD80/81 it actually runs closed loop fueling, so it will keep the AFR on target. But it will limp within a few seconds of not seeing anticipated boost, and throw an underboost code 30FE followed by boost system deactivated code 3100.
    Not to be pedantic. P30FE is an overboost code and P30FF is the underboost code. Just a clarification

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by scflaw Click here to enlarge
    Not to be pedantic. P30FE is an overboost code and P30FF is the underboost code. Just a clarification
    Yep, my B. Sticky and his anti editing rules wont let me correct it.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Yep, my B. Sticky and his anti editing rules wont let me correct it.
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #36
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    So I went under the car the weekend to check the intercooler connections. All of them are fine! And the car is still not boosting at all. I'm starting to run out of ideas. Maybe one of the wastegate solenoids has stopped working? How can I check those?

    When I'm driving around with the windows down I can hear some "whooshing" sound when accelerating. And when I let off the throttle, I hear a distinct whine, about a second later.

    What's going on here??
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  12. #37
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    A dumpvalve malfunction?
    Sounds like the turbos are spooling...
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  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    A dumpvalve malfunction?
    Sounds like the turbos are spooling...
    Leaking diverter valves? AFAIK that could indeed cause a minor leak but not a no-boost-size leak. I have the original DV and they're sitting in place.

    Yes the turbos are spooling. I think there has to some kind of wastegates malfunction. Turbos spool but no boost pressure is noticed in the intake tract (cold side). Would that be an indication that one or both wategates stay open?
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  14. #39
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    So if u havent any boost (under 1 PSI) and ur exhaust is bassy and louder I bet 50 € that ur wastegates are open all the time and this is caused by problem with vacuum lines.

    Check every line.
    Check under vacuumdose, and especially check vacuum line at wastegates and especially at oil filter housing.

    See my post for where are the lines.

    Throw in RB's, i bet the person who's installing them will find the issue at vacuum lines o_0

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    If the wastegates are open (or just one of them) this is the condition you will get, given that all your charge piping is tight, from turbos to IC and on to the plenium...BUT a faulty vacume line will not opec the wastegates because they are spring loaded. They will open more freely though which will cause some power loss low down, but that's depent on the boost control.

    the only way for a waste gate to be fully open al the time is if the actuator arm falls off the wastegate arm... I remember you said you could move these,, well you are not supposed to be able to move them with your fingers, you need some effort to load the spring.

    check #9 on the pix of the Turbos here above, and also the vacuumed lines to the actuators.

    Still I believe that it's a compromised charge pipe. The rubber couplers can let go, specially if you are running more boost than OEM or/and tracking your car creating a lot of heat.
    1995 BMW M3GT nr:111/350 TwinTurbo and some other mods.

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by M3GTtt Click here to enlarge
    If the wastegates are open (or just one of them) this is the condition you will get, given that all your charge piping is tight, from turbos to IC and on to the plenium...BUT a faulty vacume line will not opec the wastegates because they are spring loaded. They will open more freely though which will cause some power loss low down, but that's depent on the boost control.

    the only way for a waste gate to be fully open al the time is if the actuator arm falls off the wastegate arm... I remember you said you could move these,, well you are not supposed to be able to move them with your fingers, you need some effort to load the spring.

    check #9 on the pix of the Turbos here above, and also the vacuumed lines to the actuators.

    Still I believe that it's a compromised charge pipe. The rubber couplers can let go, specially if you are running more boost than OEM or/and tracking your car creating a lot of heat.
    Because the engine bay is so tight I can only reach the wastegate actuator of the rear turbo. I can push it in and there is some resistance, it does not move freely. So I suppose at least that one is working as it should.

    Charge piping and couplers seem to be fine though. I'll take off the engine cover to have a better look at the vacuum lines.

    I rechecked the codes and I also get a 2C9D code which is related to a O2 lambda sensor in bank 2 not giving a signal. Maybe the sensor has gone bad. Not sure how this would be related to the other problem though.
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  17. #42
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    Lambda sensor goes bad over time, or if it is exposed to oil, too much heat and sometimes too much fuel. It might be cause and effect,,
    1995 BMW M3GT nr:111/350 TwinTurbo and some other mods.

  18. #43
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    So I ordered a new lambda sensor for bank 2 to rule that issue out.

    The car should still boost even if AFR calculations get messed up with only 1 O2 sensor. The problem could be due to the boost solenoids. But how can I check if one of them is defective?
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    So I ordered a new lambda sensor for bank 2 to rule that issue out.

    The car should still boost even if AFR calculations get messed up with only 1 O2 sensor. The problem could be due to the boost solenoids. But how can I check if one of them is defective?
    Did you ever get this sorted? I am having the same problem right now. It is driving me crazy. Please let me know.

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    1) The boost pump supplies vac lines and canisters and brake booster
    2) vac lines break off from main 1/2" hardened hose to two lines under the valve cover and one singular one to the drivers side that supplies the exhaust flap. ( don't forget that old line)disconnect that one and cap it off . To check the pump, start the car and then shortly after 10 seconds , turn It off and go to the 1/2"hose disconnect and pinch /pull up. You should hear a hissing sound of vacuum . If none, you have a bad pump or a major leak in the 1/2" lines.


    3) the two vac lines under the canisters have the check valve thru to top and then two lines go to the boost solenoids. Could be collapsed/ pinched/ broken, or canister nipple broken.


    4) your solenoids could be bad but you can bypass one .
    Run it on the front one , then run it on the back one to single out a singular faulty one. If you have two bad ones that would be bad luck .

    5) if you want to verify the wastegate function , then you could turn the car on and watch the wastegate move after cold start. Or you can pull off the vac line at the boost solenoid , attach a pump or create a vacuum and visually watch it close. For the front one you could do the same but you will only be able to listen for it closing.

    6) the computer controls the boost solenoids , so maybe there is a loose connector or a melted wire .

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