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  1. #1
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    No boost at all, need help!

    Hi folks,

    I tracked my car last Friday on a road course but things went pretty bad. After the warmup lap, I pushed the car a bit and it went into limp mode with half-engine light. Power was cut away pretty harshly. YayÖ Click here to enlarge

    So I exited into the pitlane, and checked the codes. It showed a 30ff (underboost) code. Cleared the code and gave it another try. But the car would not build boost anymore, nothing, nada. It would go into limp mode again when WOT for too long. This happens on both maps 0 and 1 on the Procede.

    So that was it for the track day. Drove the car home cautiously and checked for the usual suspects: boost leak at IC connections, charge pipe. Seems to be ok. Although it *looks* like the t-bolt clamp on the passenger side connection of the IC has moved a bit. Yet it seems to be connected. With the car not building boost at all, I suspect it has to be a major boost leak though? Click here to enlarge

    I also moved the rear wastegate actuator by hand and it seems to move properly (sticky wastegates seem to occur occasionally on track cars). Havenít checked the front turbo wastegate as itís a PIA to reach that one from the top.

    Next I checked the boost solenoid lines for leaks/cracks. Looks ok.

    The boost gauge still shows proper vacuum values when cruising. Does this mean the problem is not a leak?

    So thatís where Iím at now. What else can I look for?? This really sucks as it was the last trackday of the season and I wanted to get the car ready to install my RB turbos. Bloody hell.
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    Check the boost leak DIY and pressurize your entire system to check for leaks.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Check the boost leak DIY and pressurize your entire system to check for leaks.
    Do you happen to have a link to such a DIY and how to pressure test the N54 turbo system?
    E92 335i SB / Black Leather / 6AT / Navi Prof / Sunroof / Active Steering
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    Do you happen to have a link to such a DIY and how to pressure test the N54 turbo system?
    Check here
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

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    @Autobahn335i , I assume the limp doesn't pop up on start up right? if so, do you hear turbo spooling at all before you limp?

    It just seems to be vacuum control, from what you described.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    @Autobahn335i , I assume the limp doesn't pop up on start up right? if so, do you hear turbo spooling at all before you limp?

    It just seems to be vacuum control, from what you described.
    The limp mode appears when I floor it for a few seconds. The ECU expects to see boost, which does not happen, and then throws the 30ff code.

    And the turbos don't spool at all. There is no boost pressure built up whatsoever. I have two boost gauges in my car to check.

    The exhaust note is definitely different too. Hard to describe, but it sounds a bit "diluted". Hmm. What a mess!!

    The boost leak DIY looks a bit complicated for my limited DIY skills. Maybe I can check some points of it though.
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    It sounds like you blew off your charge pipe , or you blew off a intercooler pipe.

    0 boost at all isnt a"leak".

    check those first

    btw I like the font in the OP.




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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    The limp mode appears when I floor it for a few seconds. The ECU expects to see boost, which does not happen, and then throws the 30ff code.

    And the turbos don't spool at all. There is no boost pressure built up whatsoever. I have two boost gauges in my car to check.

    The exhaust note is definitely different too. Hard to describe, but it sounds a bit "diluted". Hmm. What a mess!!

    The boost leak DIY looks a bit complicated for my limited DIY skills. Maybe I can check some points of it though.
    Since there is no conceivably build up I get the feeling it's a vacuum control thing.

    If it was a big leak, when you floor it you SHOULD HEAR the turbos spin first, then the DME would kick in after noticing that no boost is sense at the manifold
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    It sounds like you blew off your charge pipe , or you blew off a intercooler pipe.

    0 boost at all isnt a"leak".

    check those first

    btw I like the font in the OP.
    I forgot about the charge pipe, haven't checked that one yet! I'll let the car cool down a bit in the garage and take a look in an hour. Thanks!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    I forgot about the charge pipe, haven't checked that one yet! I'll let the car cool down a bit in the garage and take a look in an hour. Thanks!

    That could definitely be it then!! I assumed this is one of the first things you'd check...

    Hopefully this is it.. Easy fix
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    That could definitely be it then!! I assumed this is one of the first things you'd check...

    Hopefully this is it.. Easy fix
    I "wiggled" on the charge pipe a bit and there is does move around a little bit! Should it be tight/firm? I still have the stock airbox and need to dismantle that one to see and access the TB connector.
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    My guess is also something bad on the control side - vacuum leak/cracked hoses, bad solenoid(s), or WG shaft or actuator not closing the WG properly or at all. One turbo can't provide any boost if the other is not doing anything.

    The vacuum hoses off the vac pump double-T rub against the oil filter housing pretty badly. The hoses near the turbos also get some extreme heat exposure that dry rots them.

    Otherwise you'll want to check the WG shafts and actuators both cold and hot. You can't see the front actuator, but you can see the actuator rod - just a little bit of it, enough to judge whether it's moving or not. Should move about 15-18mm to fully close the WG.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    I "wiggled" on the charge pipe a bit and there is does move around a little bit! Should it be tight/firm? I still have the stock airbox and need to dismantle that one to see and access the TB connector.
    you need to look to know for sure. It would be obvious looking at where it connects to the throttle body/intake manifold.

    if it's not then it has to be vacuum control. (assuming you checked all connections post turbo)
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    Goddammit! Took the airbox off and checked on the charge pipe connector, but no luck. It sits fine and the C-clips is in place correctly. I took the car for a short testdrive and it seems I can hear the (or just one) turbo(s) spinning! What the hell is wrong with my car? Click here to enlarge

    @JamesM3M5 : could you explain a bit what I should look for at the front turbo actuator rod? I've read about sticky wastegates before in the context of road course racing, so this could definitely be a problem. But wouldn't the other turbo provide a tiny bit of boost then? Even if it was just 1 psi? The boost gauge does not move at all.
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    I have the same issue.

    I logged on JB4 and it says 0,5 PSI MAX on WOT.
    Did u also log and see absolutely no boost?!

    From my pov its vacuum related.

    My car is even louder than before from 1500 rpm upwards.
    So the WG arent closed and stay fully open.
    Is ur car also louder?!


    I have to check vacuum lines tomorrow at the T's #9
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Kollegga Click here to enlarge
    I have the same issue.

    I logged on JB4 and it says 0,5 PSI MAX on WOT.
    Did u also log and see absolutely no boost?!

    From my pov its vacuum related.

    My car is even louder than before from 1500 rpm upwards.
    So the WG arent closed and stay fully open.
    Is ur car also louder?!


    I have to check vacuum lines tomorrow at the T's #9
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...2/10/284-1.png
    Hi,

    I didn't log but I have definitely 0 boost! And yes the exhaust note is different, slightly louder and bassier. I'll double-check these vacuum lines too.
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    Guys check your intercooler piping (hot side)

    If that comes off, you will have 0 boost.




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    With the engine cool, do a partial disassemble. Pull the engine cover and cowl. Check all the vacuum lines for chafing or dry rot. Especially check next to the oil filter housing for chafed hoses - mine were rubbed badly but still intact after 60k miles, but I replaced them anyway. Check the vac canisters for cracked fittings or rotted hoses, especially on the bottom.

    Then get a Mityvac or other hand vacuum pump. Carfeully dislodge the fiber-covered vac hoses from the plastic Tees. I use a small pick to dislodge the stuck rubber, helps prevent breaking the plastic. Use the Mityvac to pull vacuum on the hose directly to the WGA and observe.

    Then put the hoses all back together and drive the car until hot. With the engine hot and idling, recheck the movement with the Mityvac.

    If they shut normally, no hanging or sticking, then you may have a bad solenoid. This will require more testing with a vacuum gauge installed on the control side after the solenoids. You will need another T and about 6-8 feet of vacuum hose - any cheap kind will do for testing purposes - and have the gauge in your hand while driving. Drive to generate boost and watch the gauge. It pulls about 7inHg vacuum driving normally, 15-20+ while trying to build boost, and zero when either the car goes to limp mode or after letting off the throttle.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by E90SoFlo Click here to enlarge
    Guys check your intercooler piping (hot side)

    If that comes off, you will have 0 boost.
    Will check that next, although I don't hold my breath. I can hardly see the hot side from the top, with all the oil cooler lines in the way, but it looks to be ok. Maybe the pressure only pushes it off when the engine builds boost? Will see! This is all really frustrating...
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    Will check that next, although I don't hold my breath. I can hardly see the hot side from the top, with all the oil cooler lines in the way, but it looks to be ok. Maybe the pressure only pushes it off when the engine builds boost? Will see! This is all really frustrating...
    @enrita had a bad leak, think it was the pipes from the turbos that had melted or something, he posted some pictures.
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by xbox_fan Click here to enlarge
    @enrita had a bad leak, think it was the pipes from the turbos that had melted or something, he posted some pictures.
    Yes his car was down on power, but still boosting. My car will not build boost whatsoever, 0 psi Click here to enlarge
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    Keep in mind that Zero psi on the guage does not mean that your car is not boosting, it just means that the boost guage is not getting any boost feed. Can be 2 things (given that the boost gauage is ok)
    a: Turbos not spooling up
    b: a chargepipe (pipe going from the turbo through the intercooler and to the intake manifold) has been compremised, melted or blown off.

    If a: then check if the vacume lines to the wastegate actuators is ok, (should also notice a rougher idle if this is the case).
    check if the linkage on the actuators is connected to the wastegate arm. If you can move the actuator arm then something isn't right, they should be stiff as hell. If this has disconnected then the wastegates are fully open and the turbos do not spool.

    if b: then you need to check the chargepiping all the way from the compressor (both) through the intercooler and from the intercooler to the intake manifold. ALL of the piping should be tight! no play or movement, otherwise it will leak all the boost once the turbos spool up.

    The error code you are getting is because the fueling of your ECU is expecting excessive air to be pushed into the engine, and when it does not arrive your car becomes seriously rich (too much fuel) and so the ECU cuts off.

    You need to check both turbos, both coints from the chargepiping to the compressor housing. If one is disconnected, both turbos will blow their air out of that hole and not into the engine.
    Last edited by M3GTtt; 10-23-2012 at 07:00 AM.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Autobahn335i Click here to enlarge
    Yes his car was down on power, but still boosting. My car will not build boost whatsoever, 0 psi Click here to enlarge
    Agreed but if you have the same issue but just more severe, you might not see any boost and it is not easy to spot, maybe you already been under the car with the engine undercover removed and checked everything already, otherwise jack that beemer up and check...
    Click here to enlarge
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by xbox_fan Click here to enlarge
    Agreed but if you have the same issue but just more severe, you might not see any boost and it is not easy to spot, maybe you already been under the car with the engine undercover removed and checked everything already, otherwise jack that beemer up and check...
    Yes that's the next step I guess. I still hope it's only a minor issue.
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    Chargepiping (forced air from turbos to the intake manifold via the Intercooler) needs to be compleatly air-tight,, so NO PLAY at all. I am pretty sure that the BMW ECU will go into limp mode if the engine starts to run lower than 0.8 Lambda (even higher) and therefore you will never hear the turbos spooling for real because your ignition will be cut as soon as the ECU reads "richer than normal" conditions.
    1995 BMW M3GT nr:111/350 TwinTurbo and some other mods.

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