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Thread: Code help

  1. #1
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    Question Code help

    Finally got caught up after being gone and got the fresh set of stock turbos back in the stage one test car til the wheels come in and am now having another issue.

    Getting codes:
    P0237 TC Boost Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
    P0238 TC Boost Sensor Circuit High Voltage
    P0056 HO2S Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2

    Also it wont come out of Limp home mode. It goes back and forth between the top 2 codes but the bottom one is constant. I already ordered the O2 sensor and will prob just swap it if I have to. My question is. The top 2 codes any info you can give me and will these codes cause a limp home trigger? I want to make sure I am chasing the right problem. As soon as this is squared taking the car to get a baseline.

    Thanks in advance for the help.

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    I did a quick google search, and all I got is people hooking up their procede wrong... old threads though.

    was anything changed tune wise?
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

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    Should've bought COBB Click here to enlarge
    COBB AP ProTune by Bren of ///Bren Tuning
    Akrapovic DP | Helix FMIC | Alpina TCM Flash | Walbro 450LPH Fuel Pump


    "The moment money becomes your motivation, you are immediately not as good as someone who is motivated by passion and internal will." -A. Senna

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    seems like the owner of this car doesnt really know what he has and how to use it... I would spend money on a jb4 install it, and rock n roll.. didnt the Owner say he was just on jb4 not too long ago? Does he still have it?

    What a headache this has been for you lol ... This is NOT typical for n54s btw ...

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    never seen those top 2 before

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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    Did you call Shiv? @shiv@vishnu

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    What tune is this person using and did you damage the wastegate solenoid connectors or inadvertently disconnect them?

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    Tony, does the car throw codes when the tune is in bypass mode or when the tune is removed? I would clear all codes, remove the tune and see how the car runs on stock tune.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


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    Problem solved, this is one of those cars that everywhere you look someone has been there before and not carefully. I had the entire intake and charge track apart and the sensor under the charge pipe by the throttle body had a broken locking clip and was taped and it slid out when I was putting it back together. Its underneath so I didn't see it. I knew it had to be something simple cause the car ran fine when I pulled it apart. Seems to be running fine again. Just gonna put it back in the air and button up the plastics etc. Thank you guys for the help.

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    WOW, i hope OP got his 335i on the cheap. Sounds like his car was rode hard and put up wet...
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    Ah, that's normal. most modded 335i have a broken clip on the TMAP sensor LOL. Glad you got it figured out. Let's hope this thing doesn't break on the dyno haha
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rader1 Click here to enlarge
    WOW, i hope OP got his 335i on the cheap. Sounds like his car was rode hard and put up wet...
    No i just was going to another mechanic who broke a few clips and yeah it was 19k two years ago

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sahyoun Click here to enlarge
    No i just was going to another mechanic who broke a few clips and yeah it was 19k two years ago
    That was a pretty good deal
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    MOTIV750, MOTIV P-1000 PI, MOTIV/FUEL-IT! low pressure fuel system, AEM EMS/COBB AP, Aquamist HFS-3, ETS FMIC, SPEC stage 3+ clutch/SS flywheel, BC Racing coilovers and VMR wheels wrapped in Hankook RS3s.

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    VERY CHEAP. His dad is a dealer at the local auction. Every Wednesday they run about 500 BMW's through there, mostly dealer buy back and lemon laws. And they lemon law these things for just about anything. I have my dealer license as well. I have my guy at the auction looking out for a nice 135 or 335 for me. I picked up a long block this week. Time to build a motor and do my best to test the limits.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sahyoun Click here to enlarge
    No i just was going to another mechanic who broke a few clips and yeah it was 19k two years ago
    Don't worry Alex I'm not blaming it on you. I know you didn't do most of this work. Little clips like that are hard to keep intact after taking them off and on a few times.

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    Cool, so I'm assuming a dyno is close? Btw I'm pissed I didn't buy mine at a auction lol
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    Cool, so I'm assuming a dyno is close? Btw I'm pissed I didn't buy mine at a auction lol
    Yessir, going to give the OP his car for the weekend. Have to be in LA monday morning to pick to 2 Industrial turbos from Los Angeles Count Waste then I will get this thing on the dyno. I emailed fftec about dyno time as they are close. No response, just going to use my friends shop I usually use with a dynojet. Just a reminder this is the baseline run only, as I put stockers on til the new wheels come in.

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    Dynojet is prob best anyways Tony. Anytime it's a different type/brand dyno, results are not apples to apples comparison due to the many variables on a load based dyno. At least that's what I was told by the masses on here, my shop uses a super low reading dyno dynamics so the only comparison there is to a dynojet is the delta and even then those are questionable.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


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    doesn't matter what dyno you're on as long as you have a baseline. I'll be using an awd mustang dyno where my car with stock turbos + FBO (catless) made 250awhp at stock boost. I have stock turbo and "stage 1" turbo results from here so it'll be extra sweet to compare to stage 2 turbos
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    Good to see its all solved.

    Tony find me a cheap 335 lol

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Good to see its all solved.

    Tony find me a cheap 335 lol
    let me dig up my old VIN #, see if you can get lucky Click here to enlarge

  23. #23
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    let me dig up my old VIN #, see if you can get lucky Click here to enlarge
    Lol your car needed some more options Click here to enlarge

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