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  1. #1
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    Fans at full speed, water pump dead?

    It has appeared that my water pump has died in my 135i (maybe), as after a few seconds of starting the car the fans come on full blast. I first noticed the fans as I pulled into the grocery store a couple miles from my house, its a cool ~40 to 50s here, so I thought it was odd the fans were running full speed, but didn't think much of it. After I got done shopping, I drove back home with the windows down to see if the fans kicked back on, they did. They car didn't act like it was over heating, but I'm not sure what else its doing.

    As you can see from Bavarian Tech Diagnostic cable logs bellow all signs are pointing to issues with the water pump, however I'm not leaking any coolant.

    What I have done to try and resolve the issue as follows:

    • Replaced fuse 37, 70 in the fuse box.
    • Replaced the big red fuse in the ecu box.
    • Replaced the battery and reset the battery adaptation to the ECU.
    • Did the water pump primer test by setting the hot air to to hottest setting, setting the fan on 1 and holding down the throttle for 10seconds. I could hear the water pump kick on at this point and cycle on and off. This is puzzling to me, as I would think it it can perform this test, it would be functional.


    Could a relay or fuse to my fans be blown? I'm sorta lost here. Should I send a ECU reset adaptations via BT? Should I just let my car idle, with the fans running at full speed, to see if it start begin to overheat? I'm kinda lost here and don't want to have it toward to the dealer (also out of warranty) an hour away if I can get this resolved myself.

    MSD80/MSD81 Engine module for N53/N54

    Module Identification


    Hardware Number 7611358
    Hardware Vesion Number 00
    Coding Index 19
    DiagnosticIndex 0000
    VariantIndex 4131
    Date of ECU Manufacturing 20080402
    System Supplier Siemens
    Message Catalog Version 255.255.255
    Software Version 0.0.0
    OS Version 0.0.0
    Current Fault Codes
    2AAF
    2AAF Fuel pump, plausibility
    Error will not cause a warning light
    Error is currently present
    Test conditions have been completed
    Short circuit or signal interruption

    Freeze Frame Information

    Event 1
    Odometer 65856kms 40921miles
    fuel pressure before mass control valve 4,924.64 hPa
    Engine speed 1,472.00 rpm
    voltage Kl. 87 13.71 V
    injected mass of fuel 4.00 l/h
    Event 2
    Odometer 65864kms 40925miles
    fuel pressure before mass control valve 5,009.54 hPa
    Engine speed 1,792.00 rpm
    voltage Kl. 87 13.81 V
    injected mass of fuel 13.00 l/h
    Event 3
    Odometer 65936kms 40970miles
    fuel pressure before mass control valve 5,009.54 hPa
    Engine speed 1,184.00 rpm
    voltage Kl. 87 13.91 V
    injected mass of fuel 9.00 l/h
    2E82
    2E82 Elctrical cooling pump: switch off
    Error will not cause a warning light
    Error is currently present
    Test conditions have been completed
    Timeout

    Freeze Frame Information

    Event 1
    Odometer 65928kms 40965miles
    coolant temperature OBD 45.00 C
    water pump voltage 14.30 V
    water pump temperature electronics 41.00 C
    water pump current adaption 1.50 A
    Event 2
    Odometer 65928kms 40965miles
    coolant temperature OBD 62.00 C
    water pump voltage 14.50 V
    water pump temperature electronics 26.00 C
    water pump current adaption 2.00 A
    Event 3
    Odometer 65936kms 40970miles
    coolant temperature OBD 27.00 C
    water pump voltage 14.20 V
    water pump temperature electronics 22.00 C
    water pump current adaption 1.00 A

  2. #2
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    Yeap that code 2E82 was the same code that I got early on and then I also got the 2E81 code and then the pump failed and the car overheated...Your water pump is on its way out. I also heard my fan come on prior to pump failure and I also did the prime test too and heard the water pump activate...

  3. #3
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    What should I tell the dealer? That I need water pump and thermostat replaced? I'm selling/trading the car once it's operational, I'm out of warranty and this car isn't reliable. Click here to enlarge

  4. #4
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    Needs a waterpump.

  5. #5
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    lots of pump going lately. The new pump from march 2012 is supposed to ber very good and pump more water.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    lots of pump going lately. The new pump from march 2012 is supposed to ber very good and pump more water.
    Well its about that time....cars are coming up to the 5yr/100k miles mark and thats pretty much how long BMW designed them to last...anything to keep the cars running until the warranty is up.

    Kind of a shame the pumps are so expensive...the belt driven pumps of the last generation lasted forever...

  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Well its about that time....cars are coming up to the 5yr/100k miles mark and thats pretty much how long BMW designed them to last...anything to keep the cars running until the warranty is up.

    Kind of a shame the pumps are so expensive...the belt driven pumps of the last generation lasted forever...
    When did they switch to 5yr/100k miles? My car was 4yrs/50k miles. At 4yrs and 4months my waterpump dies.

  8. #8
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    well, just got 2EE3 today. Car wouldn't boost, code is water temperature sensor. No CEL though. WTF? I also got 2F7E right before that. that one said no description found..... I'm getting tired of this car Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    well, just got 2EE3 today. Car wouldn't boost, code is water temperature sensor. No CEL though. WTF? I also got 2F7E right before that. that one said no description found..... I'm getting tired of this car Click here to enlarge
    yeah tell me about it. Water pump is probably next thing is going to fail on my car. i have already changed the thermostat.
    I might do the pump in spring before the season , as mentioned the new pump should provide much more flow and keep temperatures lower.
    Make sure you get this one !
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  10. #10
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    Nice piece. Looks like a big turbo LOL. Looks like my problem is tune related. I pulled the G5 out and I'm running Cobb ST2+ with no issues. Tery says it may be a loose wire or something. I'm gonna send in the board and harness and have them take a look at it. I'm liking how the Cobb is driving, maybe I'll pick up an HFS-3 or 4 and use that Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    yeah tell me about it. Water pump is probably next thing is going to fail on my car. i have already changed the thermostat.
    I might do the pump in spring before the season , as mentioned the new pump should provide much more flow and keep temperatures lower.
    Make sure you get this one !
    Whats different about that pump? OEM part?
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

    Click here to enlarge

  12. #12
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    What causes water pump failure? I thought it was high mileage but then again this instance is at 40K miles, isn't really that high, like 70s or 80s.

  13. #13
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Nice piece. Looks like a big turbo LOL. Looks like my problem is tune related. I pulled the G5 out and I'm running Cobb ST2+ with no issues. Tery says it may be a loose wire or something. I'm gonna send in the board and harness and have them take a look at it. I'm liking how the Cobb is driving, maybe I'll pick up an HFS-3 or 4 and use that Click here to enlarge
    Stg2+ feels great. I'm running it now that it's rainy hehe. I have to say though I'm way down on power than my pro tune. Hopefully I'll get the chance to dyno pretty soon.

    Go with PTF and do an E50 + meth tune. I promise you will be surprised. A friend of mine had your setup and loved it. He switched to COBB and we're trying to make his meth kit run now. Next is pro tune for him.

    HFS-4 is great btw.
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  14. #14
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    On the water pump, I changed it the first time under warranty at 48k.

    It crapped out on me for the second time @77k (now I'm at 83k) 2 months back. Weird thing though is this time the pump was still working fine, no codes. The problem was it was leaking water. Slowly at first, but eventually it got to the point where it takes a minute to go from full to water level low... It pissed me off though, totally unexpected expense. I hope I got the new pump.
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Whats different about that pump? OEM part?
    is the newest model , part number on the box. Someone i know just got it and he is seeing much better water temps. He also told me that the turbine seems bigger or has more fins. see below old pump.

    You can pretty much test your pump using INPA. Basically what happens is that there is a plastic cover around the motor that spins the pump. With time it expands so it gets harder and harder to spin till it fries or blocks completely.
    With INPA set pump speed to 5% , 50% and 95% , if the pump can hold that than its in good shape. if you see like 80-85% instead of 95% well than is very near failure. Mine holds all speed fine.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  16. #16
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    Thanks @enrita I have INPA up and running. I'm gonna test my water pump tomorrow just to make sure.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Spoolin Click here to enlarge
    When did they switch to 5yr/100k miles? My car was 4yrs/50k miles. At 4yrs and 4months my waterpump dies.
    They didn't switch it, I was just making a statement that some of these cars are coming up on being 5 years old, or getting into the 80-100k range...people need to be aware of the issues that start to appear at these stages.

    I remember E46 water pumps going like 150k before replacement...and they are less than $200 bucks..

  18. #18
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Just for the record E36 and E46 water pumps are the same and are some of the biggest pieces of crap out there. Metal impellor then phenolic impellor than modifed phenolic impellers.
    50K miles you were on borrowed time.
    Last one I changed lasted 4K miles and shelled out so no they go 150K miles you are asking for serious trouble. I have changed a lot of these and the best ones were original metal impellors discounting Stewart Water pumps which are in a league all by themselves.

    The diagnosis of the electric pumps has been the circuit board failing. I would like to know what others are experiencing with their failures.

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