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  1. #76
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    well seems it was not the DME after all, started the car today and same issue as before... so it was not DME. the new plug is already oily and black. will do comp. test.
    ouch. i was really hoping it would be easy/fast. i hope you're not spending a ton diagnosing and eventually fixing for the future as well. good luck man Click here to enlarge i respect you staying strong on it tho.
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    the engine run way better with the new dme, very very smooth. what i dont understand is how can the engine drink 0.5 liters oil in 100 km without any hint of smoke.....
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  3. #78
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    the engine run way better with the new dme, very very smooth. what i dont understand is how can the engine drink 0.5 liters oil in 100 km without any hint of smoke.....
    I really think that a big part of the problem was the ECU.

    Here is what I found from a Google search:

    Symptom: The car uses more oil than normal, but there is no trace of smoke from the exhaust. The oil level is low between oil changes. You never noticed it before and it doesn't appear that the oil is being burned by the engine. There is not a trace of smoke in the exhaust.
    Possible causes:
    The PCV system is not working properly.
    The Fix: Replace PCV valve.
    The engine may have mechanical problems.
    The Fix: Check compression to determine engine condition.
    The engine's valve seals may be worn.
    The Fix: Replace valve seals. (Generally not a DIY job)
    The engine's gaskets and seals may be damaged.
    The Fix: Replace gaskets and seals as required.

    http://autorepair.about.com/od/engin...consumpt_2.htm

  4. #79
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    thanks cstavaru, considering the car was running well and smooth (at least when i got it back) i dont think is something mechanical broken like a piston ring.
    Considering also that for changing the broken crank pulley my other shop had to pull the engine cover (the plastic one) and that BEFORE that my engine did not consume any oil at all what if they did not replace the gasket or installed it incorrectly leading oil to leak into the spark plug 5 thread and than directly into the plug fouling it?
    The spark plug thread was completely oily .
    Could also be valve seal/guides though.
    Anyway they will do compression test first .
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  5. #80
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    Considering also that for changing the broken crank pulley my other shop had to pull the engine cover (the plastic one) and that BEFORE that my engine did not consume any oil at all what if they did not replace the gasket or installed it incorrectly leading oil to leak into the spark plug 5 thread and than directly into the plug fouling it?
    The spark plug thread was completely oily .
    Could also be valve seal/guides though.
    Anyway they will do compression test first .
    Are you talking about the valve cover ? If they removed the valve cover it's very possible they could have messed something.

    If your compression test looks ok, I think that your best bet would be a new valve cover with the stock PCV valve (around 250EUR).

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    WTF, didn't the shop isolate the fault to be caused by no signal from DME to #5 coil?
    You may instead have a bad wire connection in the harness from DME to coil 5.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    WTF, didn't the shop isolate the fault to be caused by no signal from DME to #5 coil?
    You may instead have a bad wire connection in the harness from DME to coil 5.
    yeah thats what they told me but the plug still get oil fouled after a very short time , cylinder 5 fired straight away with the new DME .
    Engine started consuming oil after the crank pulley fix when they removed the black plastic valve cover so is there a chance it could be leaking oil when engine is off directly into combustion chamber? When i picked up the car it was fine than it sat in the garage all night and issue reappeared.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    yeah thats what they told me but the plug still get oil fouled after a very short time , cylinder 5 fired straight away with the new DME .
    Engine started consuming oil after the crank pulley fix when they removed the black plastic valve cover so is there a chance it could be leaking oil when engine is off directly into combustion chamber? When i picked up the car it was fine than it sat in the garage all night and issue reappeared.
    I wasn't aware the plug was oil fouled. I thought the main issue was lack of spark on #5, especially since they replaced the DME because of this. In case the misfires are caused by a fouled plug it indicates oil is thrown into the combustion chamber by a blown piston. This is the usual indication when an engine is severely worn. Your isn't so it could mean a mechanical problem related to cylinder 5 like a damaged piston or a cracked valve guide.

    I hope you come to a good solution soon and that it doesn't cost you a fortune to get fixed.
    Last edited by R1000K3; 11-04-2012 at 03:30 PM.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I'd def check out your PCV system/especially the PCV valve performance or seating of the valve. #5 is the PCV first inline for Oil to be spilled in per the Internal Valve Cover baffling/duct/channels. Then 4 and 6 are equidistantly next in line. Then 3 to 2 to 1 are further and further and usually the cleaner of cylinders. This is why cylinders 4, 5, and 6 are usually the filthy nasty cylinders at intake port cleaning time; whereas the first 3 aren't so shabby... cylinders 4, 5, and 6 do most of the dirty work.

    You may also want to just quickly pull off your oil cap while car is running and see if you feel any excess hot air coming out, usually a cracked piston ringland/rings or bad rings will be evident just from doing this quick test.

    One post for the day.

    Rob

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    I doubt is a piston, i remember how the car run when i cracked the ringland on piston 2.
    At least i really hope so otherwise the car will most likely catch fire lol.
    valve cover gasket or pcv considering this started after the other shop removed it .
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    I doubt is a piston, i remember how the car run when i cracked the ringland on piston 2.
    At least i really hope so otherwise the car will most likely catch fire lol.
    valve cover gasket or pcv considering this started after the other shop removed it .
    Yes it should be related to some mishap from the shop work. However, I get more and more in love with my slow but trusty X3 for every time I see problems with 335's. My own premium car is a shame in the garage due to long cranks Click here to enlarge The inspiration to replace HPFP is low at the moment. It will get a new chance in the coming spring but if it let me down even a single time once more I'll sell it and get something that is reliable. The GT-R is tempting and there are some Corvette models that are real high performing and also have the looks.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    Yes it should be related to some mishap from the shop work. However, I get more and more in love with my slow but trusty X3 for every time I see problems with 335's. My own premium car is a shame in the garage due to long cranks Click here to enlarge The inspiration to replace HPFP is low at the moment. It will get a new chance in the coming spring but if it let me down even a single time once more I'll sell it and get something that is reliable. The GT-R is tempting and there are some Corvette models that are real high performing and also have the looks.
    Any car is unreliable when you are pushing it beyond its limits. I know of GTRs (new model) with blown engines in my country, many with broken transmissions, also an Aventador with broken transmisison after a 10.7s run, and it was not even tuned aggressively (i.e. not supercharged / turbocharged). And think about how much does a GTR engine or transmission rebuild costs, versus some fuel pump or other tweaking on the 335i.

    I think that the 335i is pretty reliable given what people throw at it. The only problem are these mysterious misfires that no one seem to discover the cause of. I think that ECU damage plays a big role in a lot of misfires, but more research is needed.

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    The majority of problems with the N54 engine are not tune-related.
    Injectors, Hpfp, coils etc. fails on stock vehicles as well. The problemsare manageable when you use the car close to home or have backup car to ride when the 335 is down.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    The majority of problems with the N54 engine are not tune-related. Injectors, Hpfp, coils etc. fails on stock vehicles as well.
    Not really, if you ask me. I would say they fail 10 times less on stock cars. We just hear tuners saying that these fail on stock cars as well, to protect their sales. I am not aware of many people complaining about failing engine parts on a stock car (which has not been bought used and tuned before) except for the HPFP and maybe some injectors.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cstavaru Click here to enlarge
    Not really, if you ask me. I would say they fail 10 times less on stock cars. We just hear tuners saying that these fail on stock cars as well, to protect their sales. I am not aware of many people complaining about failing engine parts on a stock car (which has not been bought used and tuned before) except for the HPFP and maybe some injectors.
    In the early N54 years, the HPFP would indeed fail on a stock car (theories first stemming from ethanol content in pump gas). There have been 4 or more pump revisions and the latest seems to be not bad. As far as injectors/coils those too have had revisions, but not nearly as many.
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    I agree, I know two people with n54 powered bmw's that are 3 years old or so, neither of them are into tuning, the cars are totally stock, have been since ownership and niether have had a issue with thier cars breaking.

    I do think, like common sense would tell you, that pushing the boost/performance on these n54's cause various parts to break.
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cstavaru Click here to enlarge
    Not really, if you ask me. I would say they fail 10 times less on stock cars. We just hear tuners saying that these fail on stock cars as well, to protect their sales. I am not aware of many people complaining about failing engine parts on a stock car (which has not been bought used and tuned before) except for the HPFP and maybe some injectors.
    I agree the type of damages on N54 that carves BIG holes in the wallet are tune related, like blown pistons and worse. This will happen with any engine that is subject for constant increase in power. The only thing you know for sure is that parts will break at some level.

    But, a well running 335 is for sure a pleasure to drive already at 400 whp compared to most other cars as long as it runs properly.

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    I know you'll get to the bottom of this eventually, but damn. Did the shop you took it to not do any trouble shooting? All they had to do is hook a scope to the signal for injector number five. You would think before they cost you 1400, they would want to know for sure what the problem is.

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    Oh crap! I hope you get this solved soon.

    N54 really is a $#@! sometimes. Mine drove fine for 6 months, track duty included, and now things started to get messy again.

    I wonder how the 1Ms will hold up over time? A vast majority of those gets tuned too.
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    FWIW the N55 has different injectors, solenoid type vs piezo, supposedly. Maybe cost reasons but maybe not. I also wonder if the N55 will hold up any better than the N54 in some of these problem areas.

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    Cylinder 5 has half the compression of the other ones.... Shop think is something wrong with a valve. They are removing the valve cover and cams to see if there are any signs of issues there. Time to move on...
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Ouch. Yup I'd part mine out and trade it in after that nightmare Click here to enlarge good luck with it all. Sorry to hear it.
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    How about a leakdown test to determine if it's an intake or exhaust valve? Or possibly a piston?

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    Right now they will check the valve train, if i have to pull the head i am just gonna buy a used low mileage engine.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    How about a leakdown test to determine if it's an intake or exhaust valve? Or possibly a piston?
    Yes, if they feed pressurized air into the plug hole they may be able to detect if air is leaking by exhaust, intake (valve) or crankcase (piston). But the head must be pulled anyway so they could as well start with that and fix the head if needed or see if something needs to be done.

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