Close

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 51 to 70 of 70
  1. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    nah car was dead reliable. Never really had any issues except bending wheels left and right LOL
    but u only had her for 33k miles lol. but i get what everyones sayig

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Mars, Gale Crater
    Posts
    873
    Rep Points
    682.4
    Mentioned
    53 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Reputation: Yes | No
    We rent a house in VT during the winter and basically every weekend we drive 400 miles round trip all winter long. The longest "road trip" that I take in my car is up to montreal for f1. Basically I love this car and have had very few issues in my almost 87,000 miles (ordered the car.. 15 miles on odometer).
    335xi (sold)
    www.datazap.me - fast, free, interactive datalogs

    Click here to enlarge

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by jpsimon Click here to enlarge
    We rent a house in VT during the winter and basically every weekend we drive 400 miles round trip all winter long. The longest "road trip" that I take in my car is up to montreal for f1. Basically I love this car and have had very few issues in my almost 87,000 miles (ordered the car.. 15 miles on odometer).
    thats what i love to hear Click here to enlarge

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Valley Stream NY
    Posts
    3,302
    Rep Points
    2,757.3
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    28


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by straightcashhomie Click here to enlarge
    but u only had her for 33k miles lol. but i get what everyones sayig
    LOL yeah mine had the cam trays replaced, it caught an oil fire after that due to the $#@!ty technician who did the job.


    But black eye or not, I still love my old ride and want her back every day Click here to enlarge

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    120
    Rep Points
    228.9
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by benzy89 Click here to enlarge
    When something goes well, you tell 1 person. When something goes wrong, you tell 10.

    other way around if you are a business :p

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    1,584
    Rep Points
    2,017.3
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    21


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by straightcashhomie Click here to enlarge
    Yea I understand, honestly, I barely even get on her. I baby the crap out of my car lol. The oil temp takes forever to warm up. I usually let the car idle until the RPMs drop to about 600 before I go, how about you?

    My thoughts on this are that you are doing more harm than good by waiting for the oil to turn. I own an S engine, so understnand your thinking - but think about the viscosity of that oil in cold temperatures. You are basically wearing out your engine - albeit slowly. From what I understand - the best thing to do - is get in the car and drive. Letting it idle - when the oil is thick - is not a good thing to do. I start in 2nd gear (more load but less RPM) - and don't go above 4k RPM until I am at about 150 F - then I start to drive normally. Just my opinion.

    In all honesty man - these cars are meant to be driven. Unless you have set up your car to be a complete race car (quarter mile or otherwise) - just have fun with it, and don't worry. I have had 0 major problems with my current M, and one with my last (subframe). The inline 6 in your car is a jewel - I wouldn't be concerned with taking it 600 miles - at that a few thousand... Click here to enlarge

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by inlineS54B32 Click here to enlarge
    My thoughts on this are that you are doing more harm than good by waiting for the oil to turn. I own an S engine, so understnand your thinking - but think about the viscosity of that oil in cold temperatures. You are basically wearing out your engine - albeit slowly. From what I understand - the best thing to do - is get in the car and drive. Letting it idle - when the oil is thick - is not a good thing to do. I start in 2nd gear (more load but less RPM) - and don't go above 4k RPM until I am at about 150 F - then I start to drive normally. Just my opinion.

    In all honesty man - these cars are meant to be driven. Unless you have set up your car to be a complete race car (quarter mile or otherwise) - just have fun with it, and don't worry. I have had 0 major problems with my current M, and one with my last (subframe). The inline 6 in your car is a jewel - I wouldn't be concerned with taking it 600 miles - at that a few thousand... Click here to enlarge
    thank u for ur input? so just start up and go? that seems so.... wrong LOL. more thoughts on this anyone??

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Jersey City
    Posts
    3,857
    Rep Points
    3,642.6
    Mentioned
    74 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    37


    Reputation: Yes | No
    I just start up and go, I remember my e36 BMW in highschool said to start and drive right in the owners manual, I haven't looked in the 335's manual. I do shift slowly and keep rpm's under 2500rpms until the car is warm. If you have a boost gauge, you'll see it's easy to stay off boost until the engine is warm. The n54 has great low end tq, even with low boost.
    Click here to enlarge
    ESS 6XX kit

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    I just start up and go, I remember my e36 BMW in highschool said to start and drive right in the owners manual, I haven't looked in the 335's manual. I do shift slowly and keep rpm's under 2500rpms until the car is warm. If you have a boost gauge, you'll see it's easy to stay off boost until the engine is warm. The n54 has great low end tq, even with low boost.

    hmm maybe ill check in the manual definitely. going to search the forums to see what everyone else does

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    over there
    Posts
    288
    Rep Points
    481.1
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Reputation: Yes | No
    i am FBO and i was on a highway for 400 miles averaging 120mph and had no problems ive done this multiple times (i use motul 300v racing oil)
    Turbo lag is the on ramp to the highway which is power.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by WDBi Click here to enlarge
    i am FBO and i was on a highway for 400 miles averaging 120mph and had no problems ive done this multiple times (i use motul 300v racing oil)
    Click here to enlarge u must have a radar lol

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    1,177
    Rep Points
    801.6
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    9


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by straightcashhomie Click here to enlarge
    hmm maybe ill check in the manual definitely. going to search the forums to see what everyone else does
    Idling your car to heat is dumb. It takes forever and keeps the components cold for much longer. Not a good strategy and pretty muchall car manufacturers advise against it.

    You need no more than a few seconds before you drive it when cold. Just don't go over 4000 and I try to stay under 3000 with any meaningful load. Then at 160F all bets are off.

    This car isn't a needy child or anything. Just drive it. 99% of the reliability issues with this car have nothing to do with the way you drive. Water pumps will break, an HPFP may go out, wastegate rattle, etc... none of that is going to change if you drive normally or like a pussy. Enjoy the car and don't try to rev it to 8,000. Hell, I don't even bother going past 6300 or so with 17.5lbs on stock turbos.

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    over there
    Posts
    288
    Rep Points
    481.1
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by straightcashhomie Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge u must have a radar lol
    i have a 9500ix, a gps loaded with trapster and njections, also looking to get a radio with police scanner soon. lol
    Turbo lag is the on ramp to the highway which is power.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Idling your car to heat is dumb. It takes forever and keeps the components cold for much longer. Not a good strategy and pretty muchall car manufacturers advise against it.

    You need no more than a few seconds before you drive it when cold. Just don't go over 4000 and I try to stay under 3000 with any meaningful load. Then at 160F all bets are off.

    This car isn't a needy child or anything. Just drive it. 99% of the reliability issues with this car have nothing to do with the way you drive. Water pumps will break, an HPFP may go out, wastegate rattle, etc... none of that is going to change if you drive normally or like a pussy. Enjoy the car and don't try to rev it to 8,000. Hell, I don't even bother going past 6300 or so with 17.5lbs on stock turbos.
    Thanks for the input, from now on Ill make it 20 seconds before I fire her up and leave.... Does this also go for extremely cold weather? talking about 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit?

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by WDBi Click here to enlarge
    i have a 9500ix, a gps loaded with trapster and njections, also looking to get a radio with police scanner soon. lol
    lol u must do a whole lot of traveling!

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    over there
    Posts
    288
    Rep Points
    481.1
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Reputation: Yes | No
    lol u must do a whole lot of traveling!
    lol i just dont like cops
    Turbo lag is the on ramp to the highway which is power.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    1,177
    Rep Points
    801.6
    Mentioned
    14 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    9


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by straightcashhomie Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the input, from now on Ill make it 20 seconds before I fire her up and leave.... Does this also go for extremely cold weather? talking about 0-10 degrees Fahrenheit?



    lol u must do a whole lot of traveling!
    In that cold maybe give it 30 seconds to a minute, but I wouldn't worry any more than that. At that cold keep the revs low until it makes heat.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Folsom, Ca
    Posts
    182
    Rep Points
    436.1
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by straightcashhomie Click here to enlarge
    33 k ? I bought mines with 31 Click here to enlarge lmao
    Best time to buy CPO. Got mine at 34k. I typically wait 3 years before buying, saves a lot off the sticker price. But then again, New ones are over my budget, Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
    Alpina B3 Flash / ETS FMIC / ER CP / DCI

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Valley Stream NY
    Posts
    3,302
    Rep Points
    2,757.3
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    28


    Reputation: Yes | No
    Extended idling times also cause it to accumulate more crud on the intake valves.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    NorthEast, Pennsylvania
    Posts
    65
    Rep Points
    48.9
    Mentioned
    1 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0



    Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 Click here to enlarge
    Best time to buy CPO. Got mine at 34k. I typically wait 3 years before buying, saves a lot off the sticker price. But then again, New ones are over my budget, Click here to enlarge
    LOL, basically what I did, the sticker price on my car was 52, bought it 4 years later for 30 CPOd

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Extended idling times also cause it to accumulate more crud on the intake valves.
    notes taken! idle for no more than 30 seconds and take it easy until temps go up. Don't worry bout long trips as long as maintained

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    30
    Rep Points
    19.9
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Reputation: Yes | No
    The whole point of this if you drive a 335 is to not damage the turbo seals with excessively high oil pressure. Once warmed up you will be fine so just not running to redline until warm is a good idea and also think about how you like the cold on a cold day. Easy does it until you get it going.
    I just sold my M3 vert 284K miles and everything worked perfectly.
    This isn't a Honda and Germans expect you to maintain the car if you don't you will be stuck with a huge bill around 100K or less when brakes, shocks, struts, bushings all are shot.
    Electric water pump seems to be variable some go forever some at 50K miles.

    My other M3 I have owned since I bought it from the Reeve's in Tampa and has 88K miles on it now and has been flawless with the exception of the typical brake light switch which has failed on every BMW I have ever owned. No oil leaks, no burning oil, nothing even on the 284K mile M3 vert all with normal maintenance and replacing normal wear items when shot...

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •