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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    My UUC SSK with the DSSR rod is really an amazing short shift kit and I do love it in all situations except the drag strip when trying to make that 1-2 shift. I'm not sure if other guys with stock shifters have a hard time making the 1-2 shift when going WOT from a launch. Anyone?
    I have only the performance shift knob and ive only missed 2nd once due to shifting so hard that the shift knob came off lmao. ive never had issues shifting the only thing that slows me down is shift bog. need to do cdv delete.



    Thanks OP for taking your time to do this review. i really needed this review to build my confidence to buy a SPEC clutch even though i was already set to buy one anyways lol.
    08 335i | Space Gray | Burl Walnut Wood Trim | Sport pkg | Premium Pkg | LOGIC7 | Navi | Comfort Access


    | COBB | Injen DCI | Active Autowerke | Sonic Tuning | E92 Lighting | ER | HKS | BMS |

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by pho_e92 Click here to enlarge
    I have only the performance shift knob and ive only missed 2nd once due to shifting so hard that the shift knob came off lmao. ive never had issues shifting the only thing that slows me down is shift bog. need to do cdv delete.
    Yup, i never missed a 1-2 shift either on OEM, not until i put this short shift lever on. Back to OEM this weekend though hopefully.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  3. #28
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    That chatter is not too bad in my opinion. Thanks for posting! What's the logic behind AC on/off affecting the chatter?

  4. #29
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    the ac compressor causes more vibrations in the engine at idle so i'm sure that's what makes it worse. just guessing though.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  5. #30
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    That's noise is not bad at all. Have you run your car with no engine cowl/microfilter? WAY LOUDER!!! but way more fun too.
    John 3:16


  6. #31
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    thanks for the review OP, what do you think about the spec 2+? for fbo meth and e85 i do not think i will ever upgrade the turbos.

  7. #32
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    I think the 2+ is fine for anyone sticking with stock turbos
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmwowner619 Click here to enlarge
    thanks for the review OP, what do you think about the spec 2+? for fbo meth and e85 i do not think i will ever upgrade the turbos.
    stage2+ is fine even for upgraded turbos. ask oddjob and the ultimate test is i believ shiv still has the stage 2+ in his 600+whp car
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    stage2+ is fine even for upgraded turbos. ask oddjob and the ultimate test is i believ shiv still has the stage 2+ in his 600+whp car
    yeah but Shiv isn't DDing his Stage 2+.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    yeah but Shiv isn't DDing his Stage 2+.
    still holds the power. oddjob has for what 2 yrs now? i honestly wouldn't recommend the stage 3+ to anyone that isn't planning on spending real $$$$$. its just not needed for 90% of people out their and stage 2+ has the same pedal feel as the stock clutch.

    a tip if you have stage 3+ dont bother valeting or letting someone else drive your car because 99% of the time they stall the first few times. driving in traffic gets annoying and theirs more wear and tear with the stage 3 which costs more money

    also make your life easier and buy a new clutch stop on ebay. probably the best $20 mod you can do to all these MT
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    still holds the power. oddjob has for what 2 yrs now? i honestly wouldn't recommend the stage 3+ to anyone that isn't planning on spending real $$$$$. its just not needed for 90% of people out their and stage 2+ has the same pedal feel as the stock clutch.

    a tip if you have stage 3+ dont bother valeting or letting someone else drive your car because 99% of the time they stall the first few times. driving in traffic gets annoying and theirs more wear and tear with the stage 3 which costs more money

    also make your life easier and buy a new clutch stop on ebay. probably the best $20 mod you can do to all these MT
    I hated my clutch stop. I love DDing my stage 3+. Spec says a stage 3+ will last longer than DDing a stage 2+. To each their own. I'd rather have a clutch that I know for sure will hold over 500tq than one I think will. It wasn't a lot more than the stage 2+ so I said screw it.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I hated my clutch stop. I love DDing my stage 3+. Spec says a stage 3+ will last longer than DDing a stage 2+. To each their own. I'd rather have a clutch that I know for sure will hold over 500tq than one I think will. It wasn't a lot more than the stage 2+ so I said screw it.
    to each their own. i always thought the clutch was a bit heavy for most people. at the time installed the clutch i also had a dually truck with a racing clutch that you really had to put your foot down, which made the weekly transition of cars so much easier for me. one week ill use the truck and get used to that clutch then the next im slamming the clutch in my car. lolol

    i loved the clutch stop! made the clutch travel so much shorter, which also made working the clutch easier/faster. felt closer to driving a rx7 which has a real short clutch travel compared to ours cars
    Click here to enlarge

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    to each their own. i always thought the clutch was a bit heavy for most people. at the time installed the clutch i also had a dually truck with a racing clutch that you really had to put your foot down, which made the weekly transition of cars so much easier for me. one week ill use the truck and get used to that clutch then the next im slamming the clutch in my car. lolol

    i loved the clutch stop! made the clutch travel so much shorter, which also made working the clutch easier/faster. felt closer to driving a rx7 which has a real short clutch travel compared to ours cars
    how does the clutch stop even work|?

    if i have my clutch even 1mm off the ground i can't start my car, it literally has to be planted to the floor.

    my actual engage point is really high though.

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    how does the clutch stop even work|?

    if i have my clutch even 1mm off the ground i can't start my car, it literally has to be planted to the floor.

    my actual engage point is really high though.
    the clutch stop is a little rubber nipple that goes be hide the clutch pedal. when you put the clutch all the way down your hitting the clutch stop. what it does is limit the clutch travel by getting rid of some wasted travel after the engagement zone. our cars have one installed already but its way to skinny to do anything.
    Click here to enlarge

  15. #40
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    what is the average labor cost op for a clutch replacement?

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bmwowner619 Click here to enlarge
    what is the average labor cost op for a clutch replacement?
    My shop has really great prices, I paid $480. 6hrs @ $80/hr (they don't charge me tax because i'm military)
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    the clutch stop is a little rubber nipple that goes be hide the clutch pedal. when you put the clutch all the way down your hitting the clutch stop. what it does is limit the clutch travel by getting rid of some wasted travel after the engagement zone. our cars have one installed already but its way to skinny to do anything.
    I thought so.. So how do you start your car without it flat to the floor like mine? Do you have to modify the ignition wiring stuff in the clutch pedal?

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    I thought so.. So how do you start your car without it flat to the floor like mine? Do you have to modify the ignition wiring stuff in the clutch pedal?
    No it's starts just fine. You usually do have to put a little pressure on it tho. Try it out its only it $20 on eBay and takes 2 mins for you to install. All my friends that I've told to try it love it
    Click here to enlarge

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    No it's starts just fine. You usually do have to put a little pressure on it tho. Try it out its only it $20 on eBay and takes 2 mins for you to install. All my friends that I've told to try it love it
    ahh
    so you can squish it just enough? Fair

    i never have an issue pushing far past engage (nowhere ever near to a clutch stop point).., once in every few hundred shifts i don' push hard enough though lol

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    ahh
    so you can squish it just enough? Fair

    i never have an issue pushing far past engage (nowhere ever near to a clutch stop point).., once in every few hundred shifts i don' push hard enough though lol
    ya i squish it just enough for it to start.
    Click here to enlarge

  21. #46
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    Great Review @bigdnno98 !

    Thanks. I think you made my decision a bit easier. Stage3+ & DMFW FTW!
    BMW 335i xDrive MT
    COBB Stage2+|Wagner FMIC|CPe-Downpipes|BMW Performance Exhaust

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lorddrinkalot Click here to enlarge
    Great Review @bigdnno98 !

    Thanks. I think you made my decision a bit easier. Stage3+ & DMFW FTW!
    Fyi, there is a steel SMF that isn't supposed to rattle now, won't misfire, and has higher torque capacity than dmfw. I will be receiving it today and installing tomorrow.

  23. #48
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    I don't think it'll be possible for any single mass lightened flywheel to be 100% rattle free but I'm looking forward to your feedback on it
    Click here to enlarge

  24. #49
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    I don't think it'll be possible for any single mass lightened flywheel to be 100% rattle free but I'm looking forward to your feedback on it
    It is on other platforms, but may not be on this platform. Tbh I would bet that if you preloaded the input shaft of the transmission that rattles would go away even with the aluminum smf. That being said it would add a little friction and could be difficult to implement.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by rudypoochris Click here to enlarge
    Fyi, there is a steel SMF that isn't supposed to rattle now, won't misfire, and has higher torque capacity than dmfw. I will be receiving it today and installing tomorrow.
    Hope to hear your review.. I have to order a clutch / fw tommorrow!

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