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  1. #151
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    Sorry! Confirmed it is 12x1.75x70


    sorry sorry!
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  2. #152
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    Sorry! Confirmed it is 12x1.75x70


    sorry sorry!
    woah, thanks, i didn't expect you to check it again. seriously you're awesome

    12 x 1.75 sounds like a size i might be able to find! haha
    boop

  3. #153
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    found 12x1.75 bolts at my local hardware store! (took a while, they were buried)

    luckily i measured the depth of the tube things on the engine stand though - they're 75mm alone. i need 100-120 long bolts it seems.
    boop

  4. #154
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    Cut the tubes down on the stand.


    your next best bet is to buy all thread, and make studs or your own bolts.
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  5. #155
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    Cut the tubes down on the stand.


    your next best bet is to buy all thread, and make studs or your own bolts.
    why not just use longer bolts?

    i can get 100mm bolts (or 120), off the shelf at the hardware store

    35mm depth in the engine block.. 70mm depth in the stand (just measured accurately)

    i could probably get boltmasters (local ish chain of bolt supply stores) to make me a 105mm one even, or whatever size i wanted

    or just 120mm and a few washers, or a spacer of some sort?



    On another topic... since i'm getting M3 rear subframe, inc hubs/brakes etc. (3.15 DCT diff, axles, suspension arms, sway bar) (well, trying TRYING to sort shipping now) (not sure if i posted that here? oops, sorry! yeah that's happening now lol)

    ... i realized i can get M3 front spindle/hubs/brakes super cheap, then get the BMC/servo for an acceptable price.. and M3 front coilovers, selling my current ones...

    M3/1M brakes > 135i brakes?

    $#@!ty thing is, i JUST purchased every piece of hardware i need to install the 135i brakes to my car, something like $2-$2.5k there -_-

    soooo... sorry to everyone that the engine is taking so long to get built/installed... turns out this project has evolved a little over time haha
    boop

  6. #156
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    cheap engine crane came up for sale barely used

    ... discovered they JUST fit into an E87 Click here to enlarge

    grabbed a 12x1.75x100 bolt to check if it'd fit right - yup should be perfect

    grab another 3 bolts in a bit and finally get it on a stand and fully stripped hahaha
    boop

  7. #157
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    can anyone tell me how to remove the coolant lines off the turbos?

    i got one out by hammering a screwdriver underneath it... just

    otherwise it's like they're loctite-ed on?

    every DIY i can find just says 'aaaand remove turbos!' reeeal big help.
    boop

  8. #158
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    nvm, worked it out:

    pull harder, use TWO screwdrivers to jimmy...
    boop

  9. #159
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    M3/1M brakes > 135i brakes?
    Yes they are.
    For track use you'd need better brake pads though.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

  10. #160
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    Yes they are.
    For track use you'd need better brake pads though.
    Ya wouldn't bother with stock ones at all, dont like the dust level lol

    also, what are the large bolt holes directly below the turbo for? (Behind the water pump ish)

    anything?... If it's something, i didn't have it lol
    boop

  11. #161
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    Below the front turbo*

    theres tons of seemingly empty threaded holes?

    can't see anything in parts list or bentley manual, seems like a ton of extra work for wasting money?
    boop

  12. #162
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    Below the front turbo*

    theres tons of seemingly empty threaded holes?

    can't see anything in parts list or bentley manual, seems like a ton of extra work for wasting money?

    Maybe it was them practicing placement for the dipstick we don't have Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
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  13. #163
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
    Maybe it was them practicing placement for the dipstick we don't have Click here to enlarge
    hha ,maybe

    i'll take a photo of it tonight, just in case... better safe than sorry knowing lol

    and i think i've asked here before but i can't remember

    are all RHD N54 hot-side charge pipes crushed at teh rear turbo

    found another pic and looks just like mine:

    >http://6a6f7507c5bce60fda55-3a7d4f19...com/141902.jpg

    it's crushed >50%, which HAS to kill the rear turbo flow something crazy.

    is the steering rack RIGHT THERE or something?
    boop

  14. #164
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    yup.
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  15. #165
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    yup.
    do the LHD ones have any large dents in them as well?

    surely if they don't, LHD N54's would have a fairly sizeable advantage over RHD's as they'd be able to flow much more easily?

    i'm surprised no RHD owner has mentioned this ever.

    i'm really not ok with it haha. it's thoroughly unpleasant looking.

    ED: found a LHD pic : http://autotraderca.files.wordpress....9942.jpg?w=613 - looks perfect to me -_-... much much smoother/freer flow...

    though why do both LHD and RHD have a slight dent on the FRONT turbo just after the outlet?

    it doesn't make sense that one especially, there's literally nothing above it? wtf BMW.
    Last edited by Flinchy; 09-03-2013 at 06:59 PM.
    boop

  16. #166
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    probably silly, but hopefully easy to answer question...

    how do you remove the vacuum pump?

    i have it off to:

    Click here to enlarge

    do you just jimmy it off and it's glued on or something?

    or are there bolts from the OTHER side?
    boop

  17. #167
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    yes, pop the big ass cover off the front, and unbolt it. Its part of the timing chain assembly- you need to slacken that and remove it.


    why are you taking it off?
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  18. #168
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    yes, pop the big ass cover off the front, and unbolt it. Its part of the timing chain assembly- you need to slacken that and remove it.


    why are you taking it off?
    thanks!

    yeah looking at more diagrams, and remembering how it works, that's pretty clear now haha

    ... should i leave it on when i'm getting the block all cleaned up/rebuilt etc..? .. i figured stripping it as much as i could was the best plan of action.. plus, won't it pretty much be off when the timing chain is off and the cover in front of it etc? so not any extra effort (as the head will be off, and no internals and whatnot)

    and i figured the plastic bit inside it may not like however it's being cleaned?.. getting rid of all the caked on grease and oil/contaminants

    plus, it's only one more thing to remove lol
    Last edited by Flinchy; 09-05-2013 at 09:45 PM.
    boop

  19. #169
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    Question about 6mt:

    is it serviceable?

    just wanting to get it checked out for any abuse related damage, not knowing it's full history and wanting to run decent torque through it lol

    ed: and by 'serviceable' i mean everything in it replaceablee/rebuildable within reason with a complete teardown/disassemble lol
    Last edited by Flinchy; 09-07-2013 at 06:52 AM.
    boop

  20. #170
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    nope!
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  21. #171
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    nope!
    that's really bad

    i mean.... not happy now.

    what gumby at BMW (well, ZF i guess) thought that was a totally amazing idea?

    guess i just gotta hope it wasn't abused to hell and doesn't break as soon as i put it in Click here to enlarge
    boop

  22. #172
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    Besides the clutch, which is serviceable, I doubt someone would abuse the hell out of the trans, u'll probably be good
    Click here to enlarge
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  23. #173
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    Besides the clutch, which is serviceable, I doubt someone would abuse the hell out of the trans, u'll probably be good
    never seen a $#@!ty manual driver?

    i knkow it's an otherwise solid box, but surely it's not unbreakable and abuse proof?

    coulda been bad oil in it.. anything.. 50,000mi of pure abuse?

    just wanted to be better safe than sorry

    i mean, it HAS come from an unknown wreck lol
    Last edited by Flinchy; 09-08-2013 at 08:52 AM.
    boop

  24. #174
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    redline MTF fluid works GREAT!


    I run shockproof in mine, just because of the power i'm making (and I dont whine about cold oil characteristics)
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  25. #175
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    Below the front turbo*

    theres tons of seemingly empty threaded holes?

    can't see anything in parts list or bentley manual, seems like a ton of extra work for wasting money?
    If you are referring to the several rather large empty holes, they are for various motor mount configurations for other chassis and the front drive components for the X-Drives (those components bolt onto the engine block instead of the subframe).

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