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  1. #226
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    ^quote didn't work right

    and no... last i heard advan down in sydney may have had plans to do a single GTX35R kit... but they didn't even get their OSG twin plate released after... 2 years now? and haven't released any info on it at all.. so wouldn't hold my breath for that.. Plus, the market for what they were wanting to make (full kit w/intercooler, tune (procede.........), oil coolers/radiator etc.) for an INCREDIBLE price (30k+ last i checked) is next to zero.. they're $80k~ base cars here already.

    not many people over here are really pushing... recently a member fit the full M3 rear subframe setup to their car though, which is pretty sick.

    i mean.. even the shops that do work on N54's specifically for race purposes.. you talk to them about the stuff being done on this forum/in the states and they don't even believe you. they just don't do it... i don't even think they know about RB turbos/VTT2's for the most part.

    /ot

    heck, there's an R34 GT-R here (nitto, for those that have heard of it), with a spool 3.2 stroker kit, hollinger, the works.. probably $100k++ spent on it... it makes 1073whp and runs mid 9's at 161... which, yes, is tons, and is quick/fast.. but everyone practically orgasms over it here, because that's as far as anyone goes on anything other than american V8's which is fairly unexciting... in street car form. - i think there's ONE TT lambo here somewhere, but no one ever gets to see it, and i don't think it makes crazy numbers like ones OS -

    we just don't have enough of the 'bigger is better' car culture here imo haha.
    boop

  2. #227
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    Thats too bad you should buy a couple sets of Rb's and sell them to fund your build. A frien of mine said he spotted the ocasional high hp supra in your country. I like where you are going with your build. keep it up!

  3. #228
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sigma 3 Click here to enlarge
    Thats too bad you should buy a couple sets of Rb's and sell them to fund your build. A frien of mine said he spotted the ocasional high hp supra in your country. I like where you are going with your build. keep it up!
    hahaha, if i could i would Click here to enlarge

    yeah they're really rare though haha. there's a lot of cars in the high hundreds of hp.. say 700+ or 800-1000.. heck, the amount of LS* powered commodores and 4.0 turbo fords doing that are through the roof lol (but they're heavy and pretty slow still... people here would rather do burnouts mostly haha) but 1000+? the street cars i've seen over 1000, could probably easily count on one hand

    thanks, not too many parts to take off now.. then just gotta buy stuff and put it back together (the hard part..) - hopefully won't disappoint... I've got a few numbers to call for shops to do the head work, as to me that'll make all the difference as to how much power it puts out compared to the normal *35i Click here to enlarge - one in particular i'm really hoping can squeeze me in! -
    boop

  4. #229
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    does anyone know what sized socket is needed to remove the crankshaft bolt?

    bentley manual says M16, which is 24mm

    i grabbed a 24mm socket, which is WAY too big.. -_-
    boop

  5. #230
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    all good, swapped for a 22mm and looks like it should work when i get the pin back in the stand...

    also, just found ANOTHER E87 N54 from over in ... Jakarta

    that makes 1 in Jakarta, 1 in norway.. both with 1M front's and widened rears, and the Norway one is VTT2 powered
    boop

  6. #231
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    ok, how do you get the crankshaft bolt out?

    i've got the flywheel wedged tight

    i've put ~150+ ft-lb of force on it, possibly closer to 190 (my body weight on a bit more than a foot long bar), and it's just not moving. not even the tiniest bit.
    boop

  7. #232
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    ok, how do you get the crankshaft bolt out?

    i've got the flywheel wedged tight

    i've put ~150+ ft-lb of force on it, possibly closer to 190 (my body weight on a bit more than a foot long bar), and it's just not moving. not even the tiniest bit.
    You need a much longer bar, something like a scaffolding bar. I put mine on a 4 post lift and wedged the bar on the lift and turned the starter over. Then with the same bar and a 1.5 metre jack handle and the car in gear and handbrake on I had two people undo it.

    The probably sounds a bit extreme but they are really tight. Not sure if a good set of air tools will shift it, worked on my e36 last year.

    How have you wedged the FW?
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  8. #233
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by idnan Click here to enlarge
    You need a much longer bar, something like a scaffolding bar. I put mine on a 4 post lift and wedged the bar on the lift and turned the starter over. Then with the same bar and a 1.5 metre jack handle and the car in gear and handbrake on I had two people undo it.

    The probably sounds a bit extreme but they are really tight. Not sure if a good set of air tools will shift it, worked on my e36 last year.

    How have you wedged the FW?
    that's crazy - the specs say it should only be 74ft-lb + 360deg extra... then again, who knows how much extra torque a full extra rotation gives it i guess - bah - i'll give my jack handle a go tomorrow arvo, totally forgot i had that. hopefully not too big to fit over the bar lol

    since my engine is in pieces, i can't do the starter method unfortunately haha - it's wedged with a few drivers between the bars of the stand and the block/holes in the block
    boop

  9. #234
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    that's crazy - the specs say it should only be 74ft-lb + 360deg extra... then again, who knows how much extra torque a full extra rotation gives it i guess - bah - i'll give my jack handle a go tomorrow arvo, totally forgot i had that. hopefully not too big to fit over the bar lol

    since my engine is in pieces, i can't do the starter method unfortunately haha - it's wedged with a few drivers between the bars of the stand and the block/holes in the block
    74ft-lb? That sounds rather low, I can't remember but I'm sure it was around 150 as I was worried about having to tighten it up so much as I was worried I wouldn't be able to do it up that much. Luckily/unluckily the engine was screwed anyway so that wasn't a problem.
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  10. #235
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    360* torque angle on top of 74 ft.lb is a $#@! of a lot of load on that bolt.

  11. #236
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    360* torque angle on top of 74 ft.lb is a $#@! of a lot of load on that bolt.
    Agreed.
    That is ridiculous on a M14 bolt.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

  12. #237
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by idnan Click here to enlarge
    74ft-lb? That sounds rather low, I can't remember but I'm sure it was around 150 as I was worried about having to tighten it up so much as I was worried I wouldn't be able to do it up that much. Luckily/unluckily the engine was screwed anyway so that wasn't a problem.
    yeah, it's what the manuals say - 74+360deg.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    Agreed.
    That is ridiculous on a M14 bolt.
    M16 isn't it?. though M14 would explain why it takes a 22mm socket, and the bentley manual IS wrong more than it's right... mmm either way, a lot of torque in the end. has to be able to not back out i guess lol
    boop

  13. #238
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    M16 isn't it?. though M14 would explain why it takes a 22mm socket, and the bentley manual IS wrong more than it's right... mmm either way, a lot of torque in the end. has to be able to not back out i guess lol
    I don't know what the actual size of the bolt is. I don't hav that manual. But normally a 22mm head indicates M14.
    If you have to torque it this high, isn't that a stretchbolt?
    If so, it will need to be replaced. Stretchbolts can be torqued only once.
    There are two theories to arguing with women. Neither one works

  14. #239
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DavidV Click here to enlarge
    I don't know what the actual size of the bolt is. I don't hav that manual. But normally a 22mm head indicates M14.
    If you have to torque it this high, isn't that a stretchbolt?
    If so, it will need to be replaced. Stretchbolts can be torqued only once.
    fortunately this must be the ONLY bolt in the whole freakin engine that isn't an aluminium stretch haha

    lucky too, as it's not a cheap bolt...

    got it off! jack handle over breaker bar and it was pretty easy Click here to enlarge - oil pump off with it, not too much to go now. finally

    worst part is, can't flip engine over til i clear a space.., the cylinder gaps are full of this oil+ water gunk from being turned upside down a couple of times already.. just sprays EVERYWHERE lol
    boop

  15. #240
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    If you're doing all this work, suggest getting an impact gun and air ratchet.

  16. #241
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    fortunately this must be the ONLY bolt in the whole freakin engine that isn't an aluminium stretch haha

    lucky too, as it's not a cheap bolt...

    got it off! jack handle over breaker bar and it was pretty easy Click here to enlarge - oil pump off with it, not too much to go now. finally

    worst part is, can't flip engine over til i clear a space.., the cylinder gaps are full of this oil+ water gunk from being turned upside down a couple of times already.. just sprays EVERYWHERE lol
    I'm pretty sure any bolt which specifies a torque, then an angle is torque to yield (TTY) regardless if they are steel or aluminum. These bolts are designed to stretch (yield in fancy terms) as they are tightened. There might be specs to figure out if you need to replace the bolt based on the necking on the bolt, although most people will recommend you replace them every time.

    I find the torque for that bolt is 11 21 1AZ and TIS recommends you oil the threads and under the head (like all TTY bolts) and that you replace the bolt every time.
    Eppur si muove.

  17. #242
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I'm pretty sure any bolt which specifies a torque, then an angle is torque to yield (TTY) regardless if they are steel or aluminum. These bolts are designed to stretch (yield in fancy terms) as they are tightened. There might be specs to figure out if you need to replace the bolt based on the necking on the bolt, although most people will recommend you replace them every time.

    I find the torque for that bolt is 11 21 1AZ and TIS recommends you oil the threads and under the head (like all TTY bolts) and that you replace the bolt every time.
    Most fasteners have both wet and dry torques. You probably know this just throwing it out there for other people.
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  18. #243
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I'm pretty sure any bolt which specifies a torque, then an angle is torque to yield (TTY) regardless if they are steel or aluminum. These bolts are designed to stretch (yield in fancy terms) as they are tightened. There might be specs to figure out if you need to replace the bolt based on the necking on the bolt, although most people will recommend you replace them every time.

    I find the torque for that bolt is 11 21 1AZ and TIS recommends you oil the threads and under the head (like all TTY bolts) and that you replace the bolt every time.
    ED: you're correct, thanks!

    The center bolt for the crank pulley

    The center bolt for the crank pulley, needs replaced during timing chain service.

    and only a $10 bolt.. somehow i remembered it being $40 or $45. must be another one i need lol

    wouldn't have picked it, it didn't loosen like the aluminium ones, where they have 3 points they 'crack' on, the crank bolt was a very smooth undo

    I remember reading something on aluminium ones being torqued with a process something like torque to yield point.. then 1/4 turn.. then half undo, then 360deg or something a little confusing. May have been for totally different applications though.. not super important because i'll re-read each spec in the manual before doing them up Click here to enlarge

    i'm surprised that 74 ft-lb is the yield point of a bolt that large.
    boop

  19. #244
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    If you're doing all this work, suggest getting an impact gun and air ratchet.
    yeah those are on the cards - someone running a group buy locally for $170~ rattle guns in lots of 10 or so, 200ft-lb.. and i think i can get an air ratchet pretty cheap, which would also be quite useful

    next tool purchase will probably be a couple sizes of decent torque wrench - don't really need anything else to pull the engine apart at this point lol.
    boop

  20. #245
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    Don't buy anything but an Ingersol Rand 2135Ti. You'll kick yourself if you don't.

    buy once, cry once. it will last you the rest of your life, and your children's as well. plus take things off like Jesus bolts with ease.
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  21. #246
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by alex@ABRhouston Click here to enlarge
    Don't buy anything but an Ingersol Rand 2135Ti. You'll kick yourself if you don't.

    buy once, cry once. it will last you the rest of your life, and your children's as well. plus take things off like Jesus bolts with ease.
    doesn't look like too bad a price either? couple hundred bucks sound right?

    cheers!
    boop

  22. #247
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    no, it is HUGE bang for the buck
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  23. #248
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    i'm surprised that 74 ft-lb is the yield point of a bolt that large.
    I don't think 74 ft lbs is enough to yield the bolt. The initial tightening done at a specified torque is just to make sure the bolt is sufficiently snug for the angle tightening to work. An extra 360 is not going to be the same if the bolt isn't tight to begin with.

    You'll feel the bolt yield. It's a strange sensation, like you are ripping the threads out of the crankshaft, but obviously you aren't because the crankshaft is very hard.

    Just make sure your initial torque is accurate (use a quality wrench - I like beam torque wrenches when accuracy is important), and put an extra 360 on it.
    Eppur si muove.

  24. #249
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ajm8127 Click here to enlarge
    I don't think 74 ft lbs is enough to yield the bolt. The initial tightening done at a specified torque is just to make sure the bolt is sufficiently snug for the angle tightening to work. An extra 360 is not going to be the same if the bolt isn't tight to begin with.

    You'll feel the bolt yield. It's a strange sensation, like you are ripping the threads out of the crankshaft, but obviously you aren't because the crankshaft is very hard.

    Just make sure your initial torque is accurate (use a quality wrench - I like beam torque wrenches when accuracy is important), and put an extra 360 on it.
    Mmm, that makes a bit more sense, it's a pretty stout bolt lol

    Yeah, that's one thing i'm going to make sure of getting - a decent calibrated wrench Click here to enlarge
    boop

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    well i did end up getting a 1/2" torque wrench for future use, on special. yay for christmas season!

    spent tonight (to the enragement of the lady of the house) pulling the engine off the stand and getting the flywheel off, which was surprisingly annoying lol

    now i have to get it back on the stand...... ugh. then i can finally get the remaining parts off/crank out, and wait for upgrades/new bolts to arrive, yay

    need to put together a list of every bolt, gasket, seal etc. i need.. ugh. i'll try to get that up tomorrow/before i place the order so i can find out what i'm missing lol
    boop

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