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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BoostAddict Click here to enlarge
    No need to mess with the sway bar or motor mount. To move the steering rack, it's a 16mm wrench on top and a Torx socket on the bottom. Only loosen the driver side, you don't even need to put a wrench on the back side. The passenger side bolt will need to come out completely. You'll probably have to bend the heat shield out of the way to get the wrench on top.
    Absolutely,
    OP mentioned he'd be doing it on ramps, with ramps the suspension is compressed; in this configuration the sway bar is in the way of the steering rack.
    OP Clarified using stands after the rack (not sure how that works out mechanically, but ok) so he won't need to R&R the sway.

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    I have a dremel with the cut off wheels, they should cut the shroud without issue. I will have to take a look at the shroud when I am down there, didn't seem to hard to "trim" it in the videos I watched.

    Hopefully I don't need to go as far as loosening the mount. If I do though, you just loosen the bolt and leave it there? Do I need to support the engine?

    I have ramps but I will probably only use them to get to the central jacking point. From there I will throw it on stands for more height and to get around the steering rack issue you pointed out.
    For the motor mount you want to loosen the bolts for the engine bracket to remove, you'll have to support the engine of course.
    It might be more trouble than it's worth but I know at least AR Design does this for their DP jobs to make them go smoothly Click here to enlarge

    I tried using a dremel to shave, the angles were weird & it was hard to maintain a clean line (I was doing it on an M-Tech bumper, from the front of the bumper with the grille removed.) I ended up using a serious cut off tool to remove the whole damn thing.

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JStang Click here to enlarge
    Dude, I'm jealous of your weekend minus the work part. You are going to cream your pants once you get it zipped back up. Stage 2+ is as advertised and then some!

    Do you have access to E85?
    Not in CT. Only one station in CT and its real far away unfortunately.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Absolutely,
    OP mentioned he'd be doing it on ramps, with ramps the suspension is compressed; in this configuration the sway bar is in the way of the steering rack.
    OP Clarified using stands after the rack (not sure how that works out mechanically, but ok) so he won't need to R&R the sway.
    Agreed, from what I have read, if you do it on ramps then you cannot move the rack. Based on that, I plan to drive up the ramps and used the central jack point to raise the car further, place it on stands, and tear down.

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    For the motor mount you want to loosen the bolts for the engine bracket to remove, you'll have to support the engine of course.
    It might be more trouble than it's worth but I know at least AR Design does this for their DP jobs to make them go smoothly Click here to enlarge

    I tried using a dremel to shave, the angles were weird & it was hard to maintain a clean line (I was doing it on an M-Tech bumper, from the front of the bumper with the grille removed.) I ended up using a serious cut off tool to remove the whole damn thing.
    Haha, ok, hopefully I dont have to resort to either of those two measures.

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    including a couple beers.
    +1. Got to have the beers. Not too many though, you don't want boost leak because you forgot to tighten one of your clamps. Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge
    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
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  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 Click here to enlarge
    +1. Got to have the beers. Not too many though, you don't want boost leak because you forgot to tighten one of your clamps. Click here to enlarge

    Plenty of beer will be consumed post install.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Plenty of beer will be consumed post install.
    As it should be, reward for job well done.
    Chrome Space Bar Issue: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...338#post738338


    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
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  8. #33
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    Can be done but without a lift and using ramps, the biggest hurdle is the dp install. The rest of the stuff is baby food

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    Hmmmm, interesting tip. Off the top of your head, do you know where/how it mounts? Couple of bolts and an electrical connector?

    the fan is connected by just ONE screw on the top passengerside, an electical connector and an annoying clip on the drivers side in the middle.... very easy and opens up a TON of room

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Absolutely,
    OP mentioned he'd be doing it on ramps, with ramps the suspension is compressed; in this configuration the sway bar is in the way of the steering rack.
    OP Clarified using stands after the rack (not sure how that works out mechanically, but ok) so he won't need to R&R the sway.
    I work with ramps, it's not in the way. I promise. I just put some in last night lol

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 Click here to enlarge
    +1. Got to have the beers. Not too many though, you don't want boost leak because you forgot to tighten one of your clamps. Click here to enlarge
    lol it's been done before. oh well. If OP was closer, I'd help with the DPs. I'm a downpipe ninja.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ChuckD05 Click here to enlarge
    the fan is connected by just ONE screw on the top passengerside, an electical connector and an annoying clip on the drivers side in the middle.... very easy and opens up a TON of room
    Thanks for the tip. I will look into pulling the fan out.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    lol it's been done before. oh well. If OP was closer, I'd help with the DPs. I'm a downpipe ninja.
    Thanks for the offer. Hopefully I can handle the actual install without too many issues but I am sure you all can help with any problems I bump into.

  13. #38
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    +1 on wearing eye protection when putting on the vband clamps. The first time I did it I got a metal flake in my eye. The rear vband seems to always give me the most trouble. The lack of space and having to do it on jack stands leads to frustration, which results in having to take a break and play COD Click here to enlarge I just removed mine this morning and it was a pain in the ass
    2008 E90 335i 6MT | JB4 G5 ISO | BMS Back End Flash | BMS DCI | BMS DP's | COBB Exhaust | VRSF 7" FMIC | BMS OCC

  14. #39
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    I went the other way today, putting the stock DPs on after checking my WGs. Front ones pretty bad, so may attempt the extended warranty.

    For cutting i used a dremel initially, but it was annoying heating, melting the plastic. A jig saw worked much better.
    Removing both steering rack bolts frees up a little more room which is helpful.

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ChuckD05 Click here to enlarge
    if you remove your fan it will open a TON of room for the intercooler install, and you can tighten the clamps from the top of the engine... Makes life easier and takes 5 minutes to take it out and 5 to put it back... also makes it possible to dremel the clamp off from the top as well.
    +1 on this. Big time & frustration saver.
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  16. #41
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    Well, all done. Started at 10 am rolling the car up the ramps. Tackled the DPs first, finished at 2:15. FMIC second, finished around 6. Oil change and air filter last, rolled it off the ramps at 7.

    DPs we tought but i found them to be loads easier than the FMIC. $#@! CUTTING THE SHROUD. Dremel does not work well at all. You need something serious for that to be considered "easy". I spent at least 2 hours trying to cut that $#@!.

    Skipped the plugs for now. Ill flash S2+ after I eat.

    Tips:
    Remove the fan, its easy and makes so much room.
    Spend time aliging the DPs to prevent rattle. I made sure mine had adequate room so hopefully I dont have any rattle when driving, nothing at idle so far.
    Get something awesome to cut the shroud or just flat out remove it.

    All got for now. Thaynks for all the tips everyone posted!

  17. #42
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    awesome! but, why did you wait so long to mod in the first place?

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    awesome! but, why did you wait so long to mod in the first place?
    I have only had the car for a year. Saving up to buy everything was the only real hold up.

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Everything is cake 'cept the downpipes. They will make you want to change your religion.
    You must try a right hand drive vehicle with the added fun of the steering rack in the way. Sometimes it takes ten seconds to fit and other times a hour Click here to enlarge

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    $#@! CUTTING THE SHROUD. Dremel does not work well at all. You need something serious for that to be considered "easy". I spent at least 2 hours trying to cut that $#@!.
    Click here to enlarge

    What plugs did you get? Since you're going FBO you should be putting NGK 5992s in gapped to .7mm
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

    What plugs did you get? Since you're going FBO you should be putting NGK 5992s in gapped to .7mm
    I bought stock replacements. I didnt realize people were swapping them for different plugs. If I run into issues ill pick those up.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
    I bought stock replacements. I didnt realize people were swapping them for different plugs. If I run into issues ill pick those up.
    me either..

  23. #48
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    Glad fan removal helped.

    Seems like you did just fine. Must be a nice bump in power.

  24. #49
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    me either..
    +100HP = 1 step colder plug.

    enrita, dzenno, FFTEC / Vishnu and me, of course, are some of the cool kids running them.
    LEMANS BLUE M-TECH E92->PROCEDE REV3::ETS 7" FMIC::RACELAND DPS::WAVETRAC DIFF::DEFIV DIFF LOCKDOWN::DEFIV OCC::DEFIV INTAKE::RB PCV

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
    +100HP = 1 step colder plug.

    enrita, dzenno, FFTEC / Vishnu and me, of course, are some of the cool kids running them.
    @enrita @dzenno@protuningfreaks

    is this true? I thought anything but stock misfired?

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