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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
    e90 and e92 turbo's feature a front and a back turbo; the 135i uses the same turbo for the front and back.....at least that's how i understand it
    Incorrect partially. e9x chassis feature front and rear turbos (both different from each other) while the e8x chassis shares the same FRONT turbo as the E9x, but rear unit is unique to the e8x. E6x chassis is entirely different from what I can recall, id have to go look up part numbers again.

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    Cool, thanks for clearing that up. I used to have a 135i and when I installed DPs on it the rear turbo was different looking somehow

  3. #53
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    Here is my take on a few things. Experienced BMW tech here, also dabbled in Porsches and Nissans as well.

    -If you baby your N54 a lot driving around the streets, expect to have your valves cleaned every 10-15k. Lots of non-WOT will gum them up quickly. Ive done many cleanings and i have had several repeat customers. If you do a lot of WOT, it shuts the PCV system off and it does not draw oil residue into the engine. Did a cleaning on a 135 that has 30k hard track/street miles only. Valves were just lightly dusted and they cleaned up so easily. Compared to one that idled a lot for 20k miles, you couldnt even see the valve stem anymore.

    -725hp was made on stock coils, am I correct? These get subject to tremendous pressure to perform properly, some will eventually fail early due to heat/vibration/moisture ingestion. Replace it with a stock coil and be on your merry way.

    -Injectors. Sometimes a 'culprit' cylinder might not be the caper as it first seems, but sometimes the cylinder right next to it, or the cylinder before or after it in the firing order. I had black plugs on cylinders 2,3 and 5. Changed all those injectors on a customers car a few years back, and problem still persisted (poor idle and hard start). Turns out it was the #1 injector causing all the problems. Replaced the other 3 and sent him on his way. When in doubt, if you have not replaced any, save your money and replace all 6. If the dealer has replaced any, replace the remaining ones yourself. Yes it might be an annoyance but id rather replace mine on my own in a short evening rather than take a day off of work, fight with the dealer all morning and have to get back there later or even on another day to pick it up.

    -basic maintenance goes a long way. Change your oil every 5-7500 (i do every 5). Your engine will thank you for it. Waiting for that 15k service will surely invite problems to bother you for the rest of the cars life (eg, had a friend get his first oil change at 22k. Car was seeing a vanos solenoid every month, 6 cam gears replaced, an intake cleaning and car still limp moded everywhere. The motor was too sludged up to function properly)

    -those Supreme Power lowering perches are crap. Dont fit XIs (as i last recall or did they modify the design) and coming from a customer who set them up on his track car for a little better drop in the front, said they made the car feel loose and unconnected over bumps and turns.

    I think thats all I remember for now. Ive been neck deep in these cars since their existence began, and ive seen all sorts of products come and go.

  4. #54
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Incorrect partially. e9x chassis feature front and rear turbos (both different from each other) while the e8x chassis shares the same FRONT turbo as the E9x, but rear unit is unique to the e8x. E6x chassis is entirely different from what I can recall, id have to go look up part numbers again.
    I learned something new.
    Chrome Space Bar Issue: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...338#post738338


    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
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  5. #55
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    Oh and these plugs cannot be gapped. Attempting to do so will break an electrode off (i tried lol). Their 3-pronged setup is set from Bosch. You could try the mini cooper-s plugs (one heat range colder and only one electrode) but last time I checked they couldnt handle extreme duty and kept misfiring.

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Oh and these plugs cannot be gapped. Attempting to do so will break an electrode off (i tried lol). Their 3-pronged setup is set from Bosch. You could try the mini cooper-s plugs (one heat range colder and only one electrode) but last time I checked they couldnt handle extreme duty and kept misfiring.
    ive always ran the stock plugs and ignition coils with no issues. I agree not to gap them.

  7. #57
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I learned something new.
    Its why RB or Vargas turbo upgrades have to take into account if the car is an e82. Also, the charge pipe/ divert or valve setup on a 135i is slightly different to accommodate a resonator for the dv's

  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
    Its why RB or Vargas turbo upgrades have to take into account if the car is an e82. Also, the charge pipe/ divert or valve setup on a 135i is slightly different to accommodate a resonator for the dv's
    I didn't realize it but does the different turbo have less or more efficiency? About the same? How does it differ?
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    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
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  9. #59
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I didn't realize it but does the different turbo have less or more efficiency? About the same? How does it differ?
    Same efficiency. Same internals. Slightly different footprint and orientation.

  10. #60
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wescuddles Click here to enlarge
    Ok ill bite. FBO JB4, G5 ISO, 94 octane map 5. Auto learning is either brutally slow or there's something wrong with my car because I only get 11-12 psi... As soon as I switch on map 5 it's 16-17psi, I do a 3rd to 4th WOT pull and it drops down to 11psi from thereafter. I don't have logs but I've got lots of octane and no codes when using my bav tech. Ideas?
    Anyone? Click here to enlarge
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  11. #61
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wescuddles Click here to enlarge
    Anyone? Click here to enlarge
    @terry?

  12. #62
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Incorrect partially. e9x chassis feature front and rear turbos (both different from each other) while the e8x chassis shares the same FRONT turbo as the E9x, but rear unit is unique to the e8x. E6x chassis is entirely different from what I can recall, id have to go look up part numbers again.
    anyone know the reasoning behind this?
    boop

  13. #63
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    anyone know the reasoning behind this?
    Packaging cobstraints. The 1er has less room to work with.

  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Wescuddles Click here to enlarge
    Anyone? Click here to enlarge
    @Terry@BMS

    You might be better off emailing him directly, usually an answer within 15 mins Click here to enlarge
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge

  16. #66
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    Couple things I've been experiencing:
    At startup when I release the clutch in neutral I get this strange metallic rattling noise. It's more of a "chatter"...almost as if gear teeth were grinding as they engaged. I've never taken apart a transmission before so I'm not fully versed in the design...any ideas what it might be? I don't get any driveability issues from the trans or clutch and I'm pretty sure I've never heard the noise if i start up, put it in gear, and drive off. Only if I start it up and let it idle in neutral.

    Also, when I shut down the car (hot or cold) it shudders...almost violently. It's done it since the day I got it and, since I had other issues with the car at the time, I spent most of my energy diagnosing the misfire shenanigans. Now that I got all that sorted out, it seems more and more unusual the way the car shuts down. Might be related to rough idle? Idle's rough on cold start, less so once warm but still shudders occasionally when warm.

    Cold start/rough idle I'm thinking maybe valves...shudder on shut down I'm not so sure. Also that crazy grinding/chattering/metal-on-metal noise when releasing the clutch after a cold start...NO idea.

    Any ideas? Not sure what to start pulling/checking/replacing.
    COME AT ME BRO

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Mekong84 Click here to enlarge
    Couple things I've been experiencing:
    At startup when I release the clutch in neutral I get this strange metallic rattling noise. It's more of a "chatter"...almost as if gear teeth were grinding as they engaged. I've never taken apart a transmission before so I'm not fully versed in the design...any ideas what it might be? I don't get any driveability issues from the trans or clutch and I'm pretty sure I've never heard the noise if i start up, put it in gear, and drive off. Only if I start it up and let it idle in neutral.

    Also, when I shut down the car (hot or cold) it shudders...almost violently. It's done it since the day I got it and, since I had other issues with the car at the time, I spent most of my energy diagnosing the misfire shenanigans. Now that I got all that sorted out, it seems more and more unusual the way the car shuts down. Might be related to rough idle? Idle's rough on cold start, less so once warm but still shudders occasionally when warm.

    Cold start/rough idle I'm thinking maybe valves...shudder on shut down I'm not so sure. Also that crazy grinding/chattering/metal-on-metal noise when releasing the clutch after a cold start...NO idea.

    Any ideas? Not sure what to start pulling/checking/replacing.
    stock clutch and flywheel? I'd venture to say your DMF is beginning to age or fail

  18. #68
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
    stock clutch and flywheel? I'd venture to say your DMF is beginning to age or fail
    yup, both stock. Never more than a cobb stage 1 aggressive tune though (all stock hardware). I was under the impression that with a moderate tune and stock hardware the DMF wasn't at risk of premature failure. just rolled over 60k miles this weekend...
    COME AT ME BRO

  19. #69
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Mekong84 Click here to enlarge
    yup, both stock. Never more than a cobb stage 1 aggressive tune though (all stock hardware). I was under the impression that with a moderate tune and stock hardware the DMF wasn't at risk of premature failure. just rolled over 60k miles this weekend...
    @dzenno@PTF

    he had had dmf issues that caused misfires


    on my 135i, my dmf was toast after the aggressive maps shiv put out in 2011

  20. #70
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
    Packaging cobstraints. The 1er has less room to work with.
    in what dimension? it's the same width, and the engine bay is basically the same length as well? no?

    same parts in there otherwise

    reason i'm asking is as i have a 335i motor, going into an RHD 1er... well if something's not going to fit... haha
    boop

  21. #71
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
    @terry?


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    @Terry@BMS

    You might be better off emailing him directly, usually an answer within 15 mins Click here to enlarge
    thanks guys. I've actually discovered a misfire as of late... Something ill need to diagnose first.
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  22. #72
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
    Packaging cobstraints. The 1er has less room to work with.
    This. Hot pipe cant make the same bend. E60 the downpipes go in a different direction.

  23. #73
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Mekong84 Click here to enlarge
    Couple things I've been experiencing:
    At startup when I release the clutch in neutral I get this strange metallic rattling noise. It's more of a "chatter"...almost as if gear teeth were grinding as they engaged. I've never taken apart a transmission before so I'm not fully versed in the design...any ideas what it might be? I don't get any driveability issues from the trans or clutch and I'm pretty sure I've never heard the noise if i start up, put it in gear, and drive off. Only if I start it up and let it idle in neutral.

    Also, when I shut down the car (hot or cold) it shudders...almost violently. It's done it since the day I got it and, since I had other issues with the car at the time, I spent most of my energy diagnosing the misfire shenanigans. Now that I got all that sorted out, it seems more and more unusual the way the car shuts down. Might be related to rough idle? Idle's rough on cold start, less so once warm but still shudders occasionally when warm.

    Cold start/rough idle I'm thinking maybe valves...shudder on shut down I'm not so sure. Also that crazy grinding/chattering/metal-on-metal noise when releasing the clutch after a cold start...NO idea.

    Any ideas? Not sure what to start pulling/checking/replacing.
    DMF

  24. #74
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
    in what dimension? it's the same width, and the engine bay is basically the same length as well? no?

    same parts in there otherwise

    reason i'm asking is as i have a 335i motor, going into an RHD 1er... well if something's not going to fit... haha
    Im pretty sure i recall posting in your thread saying you need to swap the turbos cuse the hot pipe wont fit. Unless you find 135 turbos to put in.

  25. #75
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Itsbrokeagain Click here to enlarge
    Im pretty sure i recall posting in your thread saying you need to swap the turbos cuse the hot pipe wont fit. Unless you find 135 turbos to put in.
    ahh fair enough

    in what way won't it fit though?

    the 335i one obviously clears the RHD steering rack, and there shouldn't be anything else around there to cause a headache?

    i can't find any pics online comparing though, so no idea what teh physical difference is lol

    ED: found it

    135i> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/BMW-E82-E...item2a2e094b8d

    335i> http://www.ebay.com/itm/07-10-BMW-e9...d36cd8&vxp=mtr

    looks like teh 335i one is actually more compact?

    135i one comes in from the side.. 335i one comes in from the bottom.

    can't see a reason why it wouldn't fit in the 135i with the full 335i setup?
    boop

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