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Thread: [bimmerboost edition] General N54 Questions Thread. New member? Question on Modifications or misfires? Post 'em up!

              
  1. #26
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    So I am back in a 335i after a much too long absence...

    So what do you guys think... which downpipes are the best? what tune should I get? Which intercooler? Are the DCIs damaging to the car?









    .... Just $#@!in with ya.... Click here to enlarge I already have everything for it... haha

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ATP Click here to enlarge
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    When running a Mr. 5 style intake, oiled or dry filters? I'm going to be FBO soon and I am leaning towards AFE dry drop in and cone. Anything against that route?
    terry@bms has tested drop-in filters. what's funny is he sells lots of the k&n style drop in filters. no difference in power output between them and the stock paper filter. if it was me, i'd just run the stock paper filter.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
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    terry@bms has tested drop-in filters. what's funny is he sells lots of the k&n style drop in filters. no difference in power output between them and the stock paper filter. if it was me, i'd just run the stock paper filter.
    Well, picked up an aFe Pro Dry S for $35 used. Cheap enough for use.

  4. #29
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    Bryce,

    do you know how to reset the throttle mapping? I was told to use a BavTech tool, but not sure what that is and or how to get one.

    thanks.

    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
    Alpina B3 Flash / ETS FMIC / ER CP / DCI

  5. #30
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    How do I extend the rev limiter? What is the highest I can safely rev? 7200?

    Someone who has used both procede and JB4 what did you like dislike about both of them? Taking price out what are the big differences?

    Thanks in advance guys for helping out a newb.

  6. #31
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    I think you need to use a flash to 'extend' the rev limiter. Not sure on safety. Cobb will do this, some other flashes will as well.

    There's no big difference between piggy backs ATM except cost, both have CAN integration, bull$#@! on dash and make similar power.

    Procede vin locks which is a bummer, 150$ fee to unlock.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
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    How do I extend the rev limiter? What is the highest I can safely rev? 7200?

    Someone who has used both procede and JB4 what did you like dislike about both of them? Taking price out what are the big differences?

    Thanks in advance guys for helping out a newb.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
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    I think you need to use a flash to 'extend' the rev limiter. Not sure on safety. Cobb will do this, some other flashes will as well.

    There's no big difference between piggy backs ATM except cost, both have CAN integration, bull$#@! on dash and make similar power.

    Procede vin locks which is a bummer, 150$ fee to unlock.
    Thanks man! I'll look into more about increasing the rev limiter. I'll probably end up with JB4 for price reasons. What I save I can buy downpipes and DCI and be on the way to a big tom intercooler.

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
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    Thanks man! I'll look into more about increasing the rev limiter. I'll probably end up with JB4 for price reasons. What I save I can buy downpipes and DCI and be on the way to a big tom intercooler.
    Why extend the rev limit? @dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks can correct me if I am wrong, but I do not believe stock turbos will make any more power that high in the RPM band. Most people short shift at ~6500 RPM becasue the turbos taper off at that point.

  9. #34
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    People extend the rev limit so they have some extra room to shift on the track...

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by VNeBLOB42 Click here to enlarge
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    Bryce,

    do you know how to reset the throttle mapping? I was told to use a BavTech tool, but not sure what that is and or how to get one.

    thanks.
    It's a diagnostic tool.

    BMS carries it: http://www.burgertuning.com/scanner.html

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
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    It's a diagnostic tool.

    BMS carries it: http://www.burgertuning.com/scanner.html
    thanks, I will look into it.

    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
    Alpina B3 Flash / ETS FMIC / ER CP / DCI

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by uniter Click here to enlarge
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    Thanks Bryce.
    @enrita Did the Okadas ever wind up making you more power?
    no idea, dont think is about more power . Now suddenly i dont have any missfires anymore on cylinder 1... weird. I ordered a new one anyway.
    07 335i AT - TD St.2 Turbos - COBB (Custom Cobb mapping by http://www.protuningfreaks.com/) - JB4G5 ISO - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - E85 Walbro - Injen Intake - Helix IC - Snow Stg. 3 - Stett CP - AR DPs - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade - Alpina B3 Flash

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
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    no idea, dont think is about more power . Now suddenly i dont have any missfires anymore on cylinder 1... weird. I ordered a new one anyway.
    yeah coils/plugs don't make HP...

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    Got a question on the n54('s) itself... Specifically 335i vs 135i

    I've been told (and read elsewhere) that the rear turbos differ in positioning or something?..(and parts number?) how does this effect the overall fitment?

    What other major differences are there between the series'?

    (yeah this relates to my other thread but this one seemed appropriate lol)

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    lots of new users lately it seems......thanks to that fgt jason @ e90

    bump for general questions :thumbsup:

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Flinchy Click here to enlarge
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    Got a question on the n54('s) itself... Specifically 335i vs 135i

    I've been told (and read elsewhere) that the rear turbos differ in positioning or something?..(and parts number?) how does this effect the overall fitment?

    What other major differences are there between the series'?

    (yeah this relates to my other thread but this one seemed appropriate lol)
    e90 and e92 turbo's feature a front and a back turbo; the 135i uses the same turbo for the front and back.....at least that's how i understand it

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
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    yeah coils/plugs don't make HP...
    other platforms have made up to 15whp more with okada's....

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bryce Click here to enlarge
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    other platforms have made up to 15whp more with okada's....
    Is the logic that it produces a hotter or larger spark and the combustion is more efficient and more fuel burns?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Torgus Click here to enlarge
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    Is the logic that it produces a hotter or larger spark and the combustion is more efficient and more fuel burns?
    the logic is that when you're making 3-4 times the HP/TQ as stock, the stock ignition coils aren't as efficient. on my old rsx-s, lots of full-race guys ran the okada's and saw great gains in the midrange and upper rpms'. upper rpm's on the k20/k24 is especially stout versus the n54. i think the higher the rev's, plus the higher the cylinder pressure and power output, the more benefit there is to using okada's

  20. #45
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    also, i think the evo guys have used okada's to some extent. i can't speak to any gains on that platform, however.

  21. #46
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    Typically if you have a stronger spark, you can run a larger spark plug gap leading to more complete fuel burn as well. Closing the gap on plugs is a necessary evil in most cases.
    2007 BMW 335i 6MT / Alpine Weiss

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    Great idea!

    I will go...

    I have a slight misfire at idle, GT1 says 650ish rpm on cylinder 1. It is a bit more apparent on cold starts. I swapped plugs, coils and put in a new injector into that cylinder, it's still there. Anyone deal with this?

  23. #48
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
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    Great idea!

    I will go...

    I have a slight misfire at idle, GT1 says 650ish rpm on cylinder 1. It is a bit more apparent on cold starts. I swapped plugs, coils and put in a new injector into that cylinder, it's still there. Anyone deal with this?
    could be carbon build-up....that has been known to mess with idle. have you bore-scoped your cyl. head intake ports?

  24. #49
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    Ok ill bite. FBO JB4, G5 ISO, 94 octane map 5. Auto learning is either brutally slow or there's something wrong with my car because I only get 11-12 psi... As soon as I switch on map 5 it's 16-17psi, I do a 3rd to 4th WOT pull and it drops down to 11psi from thereafter. I don't have logs but I've got lots of octane and no codes when using my bav tech. Ideas?
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

  25. #50
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by continue5 Click here to enlarge
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    Great idea!

    I will go...

    I have a slight misfire at idle, GT1 says 650ish rpm on cylinder 1. It is a bit more apparent on cold starts. I swapped plugs, coils and put in a new injector into that cylinder, it's still there. Anyone deal with this?
    I don't know if mine is misfiring but there's obvious RPM blips during cold starts... I just assumed it was normal N54 crap lol...
    BSM 2008 135i N54
    -VRSF 7" IC -VRSF DP's -n55 mids -BERK race -ER CP -TIAL BOV -BMS DCI -JB4 G5 ISO -ST coils -STOPTECH slotted rotors & pads -SLeK lip

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