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  1. #1
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    Meth Tank under Front Support Beam Thoughts

    SHORT VERSION: Would putting stainless steel meth tank under the front impact beam, with all stainless fittings be a good/safe idea? Safe from collision etc..


    LONGER VERSION:

    So it looks like nobody is coming up with anything new for meth setups anytime soon and I have a bunch of ideas to fab up my own, but first things first I need to finalize where I'm going to put it.

    SO I was thinking of making a tank which fits on the drivers side under the front impact beam.

    1) I would remove that useless duct we have and use that as a "meth tank cooling duct" and have the meth tank sit in that area (below and behind the impact beam beside the fog light area).
    2) I would then run a filler neck upto the area where the BMS WW meth kit's pump mounts and have a remote filling location there.
    3) I would vent the tank external to the cars body and run a one way check-valve in the vent line as well.
    4) All parts/fittings/line covering would be stainless steel and have a matte black finish to try and be somewhat stealthy. Pump would mount directly under the tank to be perfectly gravity fed and the short distance to the injector is a plus.


    The issues:
    1) Heat in the area, although this would be mounting lower and away from the hotter portions of the engine, I've checked temps around the foglight area and they are NOWHERE near what would be considered "underhood temps"
    --- The mesh in the front bumper would also allow some airflow to hit the tank, air cooling??

    2) Safety concerns: Would this tank spray meth all over a hot engine bay in the incident of a collision? I'm guessing since it's behind the impact beam it would take a fairly large impact to get to the tank and even then it seems most of it would spray the fender liner and then just leak down (I'll put a little hole so it leaks towards the ground and not my hot downpipes)

    Another thing I was considering is to just mount a plastic Devil's Own 2/3 quart tank there and then create a stainless cover for the tank that is structurally re-inforced. I'd probably drill a couple holes in the front to allow air to hit the plastic tank as well if that'll have any cooling benefits.



    If none of this is a good idea it's time to make a mould of the trunk compartment or to build a new trunk liner for the drivers side that can accomodate the stock amp + a small meth tank + a pump haha. Or maybe build that stainless tank I was thinking of for my trunk setup? I still prefer underhood since the thought of a flammable and highly toxic substance in my trunk is a bit unsettling.

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    I wouldn't be too keen on that location. the trunk is the best location imho, if you cant afford the advan trunk tank then what about a simple squareish tank that site behind the rear seats? covering the whole seat area in the trunk, it would only need to be 80-100mm (3-4 inch) think so not missing much trunk space, you only miss the fold down seats, but ask yourself how often do you fold the rear seats? you could put a tap on the bottom and rig up a quick release so if you did need to remove you could remove a full tank in 5 minutes.

    rough calc of a tank 100cm across by 40cm high and 10cm think would give you 40litres or 10gal. also this would add 40kg - 90 lbs over the rear wheels?
    Last edited by pcockley; 09-13-2012 at 08:11 PM.

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    Why not just put it in the trunk?
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    Having a flammable + toxic substance in my trunk just isn't sitting well with me. I've been running around with no meth for a while now just because of that. I was hoping someone would come up with an underhood setup, but it looks like that's not happening. I might have to end up going with a trunk setup I guess and taking a couple extra precautionary steps.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    Having a flammable + toxic substance in my trunk just isn't sitting well with me.
    Mix with water...
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    It's still flammable and toxicClick here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    It's still flammable and toxicClick here to enlarge
    Yes but safer than just straight meth.
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    Having the tank under the front support beam just has this unsettling feeling for me a tiny bit...i've ordered a howerton trunk mounted tank that I'll run in the meantime until i get the time to try making my own either under the mat in the trunk, or in the driver's side wheel well.

    Another idea I've had recently is the 1M gas tank is 54 liters. IF we can mount it and its a direct swap that should open up room to possibly make the meth tank right next to it on the bottom, a BIG meth tank Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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    Why everyone tries to reinvent the wheel is beyond me. Trunk mount it, if you're afraid of fumes, get a towel and cover the tank. Problem solved.

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    You could look into using a small fuel cell and mount that in the trunk. They sell them in 1-3 gallon sizes.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Having the tank under the front support beam just has this unsettling feeling for me a tiny bit...i've ordered a howerton trunk mounted tank that I'll run in the meantime until i get the time to try making my own either under the mat in the trunk, or in the driver's side wheel well.

    Another idea I've had recently is the 1M gas tank is 54 liters. IF we can mount it and its a direct swap that should open up room to possibly make the meth tank right next to it on the bottom, a BIG meth tank Click here to enlarge
    Dzenno the fact that you're considering making a solution for this is the only reason I'm not in the garage right now. The impact beam location isn't ideal, but it's the only spot with enough space that I could find. I was basically going to cut up all the pieces required for the tank and install the fittings and then have Ivo weld it together.

    Make something soon pleaaaaaase haha Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Why everyone tries to reinvent the wheel is beyond me. Trunk mount it, if you're afraid of fumes, get a towel and cover the tank. Problem solved.
    When you attend medical school and learn about the realities of meth you don't really want it in your trunk. Had I never learned what I learned I would probably put the meth tank on my passenger seat with a seatbelt on. Eitherway though if I were to go trunkmount I'd use an unvented cap and then run a line external to the body with a checkvalve and try my best to forget about it.

    Stealth factor also comes into play.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    Dzenno the fact that you're considering making a solution for this is the only reason I'm not in the garage right now. The impact beam location isn't ideal, but it's the only spot with enough space that I could find. I was basically going to cut up all the pieces required for the tank and install the fittings and then have Ivo weld it together.Make something soon pleaaaaaase haha Click here to enlargeWhen you attend medical school and learn about the realities of meth you don't really want it in your trunk. Had I never learned what I learned I would probably put the meth tank on my passnenger seat with a seatbelt on. Eitherway though if I were to go trunkmount I'd use an unvented cap and then run a line external to the body with a checkvalve and try my best to forget about it.Stealth factor also comes into play.
    Which is precisely why I use an unvented cap and have a towel covering the tank per my previous response. You could also put the tank up front where there is much more heat and risk setting your car on fire. The choice is yours I suppose.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Hey Dr. G I know you and I see eye to eye on this whole meth tank thing. I was originally thinking of making a custom tank for to replace the current WW tank. After some consideration with a few fabrication buddies I have come up with a new idea.

    I recently discovered a two part epoxy that my MAC tools truck guy showed me the other day.
    It's called Rapid Fix http://www.rapid-fix.com/HOME.html
    It uses a epoxy combined with a welding powder. I saw one of our tech's using it in shop the other day and let's just say this stuff works wonders. I have seen what it can do for plastic, metal, and rubber. This is best epoxy I have seen yet and I would trust it to hold.

    I was thinking why not remove the WW tank. Then use this epoxy to fully seal the tank. I would use the epoxy to basically glue the level sensor, WW pump, and filler neck to the tank. I would use a few coats to basically weld the components together. I would then pressure test the whole system with shop air to ensure that there was no leaks. This is a cheap easy way to try and run the WW tank setup without the fear of leaks. Worst case scenario would be if you wanted to go back and replace all those parts it would be under $100 for Tischer. This would be a lot better than spending countless dollars on development of a new tank or fussing with a new tank location.

    What do you think?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by (-(ellblazer420 Click here to enlarge
    Hey Dr. G I know you and I see eye to eye on this whole meth tank thing. I was originally thinking of making a custom tank for to replace the current WW tank. After some consideration with a few fabrication buddies I have come up with a new idea. I recently discovered a two part epoxy that my MAC tools truck guy showed me the other day.It's called Rapid Fix http://www.rapid-fix.com/HOME.htmlIt uses a epoxy combined with a welding powder. I saw one of our tech's using it in shop the other day and let's just say this stuff works wonders. I have seen what it can do for plastic, metal, and rubber. This is best epoxy I have seen yet and I would trust it to hold.I was thinking why not remove the WW tank. Then use this epoxy to fully seal the tank. I would use the epoxy to basically glue the level sensor, WW pump, and filler neck to the tank. I would use a few coats to basically weld the components together. I would then pressure test the whole system with shop air to ensure that there was no leaks. This is a cheap easy way to try and run the WW tank setup without the fear of leaks. Worst case scenario would be if you wanted to go back and replace all those parts it would be under $100 for Tischer. This would be a lot better than spending countless dollars on development of a new tank or fussing with a new tank location. What do you think?
    It would be a lot less work simply going trunk mount.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    It would be a lot less work simply going trunk mount.
    I disagree. I can have the WW tank out and glued in less than an hour. Plus I will maintain the tank in the area that I want. I am not trying to do a trunk mount. Plus this costs me about $10 vs having to buy a new trunk mount.

  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by (-(ellblazer420 Click here to enlarge
    I disagree. I can have the WW tank out and glued in less than an hour. Plus I will maintain the tank in the area that I want. I am not trying to do a trunk mount. Plus this costs me about $10 vs having to buy a new trunk mount.
    Hey, to each their own. My trunk mount can come out without a trace in 10 seconds. Click here to enlarge beat that!PS: look up shivs original PPS meth kit. That is my setup.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Hey, to each their own. My trunk mount can come out without a trace in 10 seconds. Click here to enlarge beat that!PS: look up shivs original PPS meth kit. That is my setup.
    The original tank setup is dope I will agree. I guess I am just determined to go against the norm. I want that damn tank up front but just don't want to worry about leaks!!! We will see I guess. I have been lazy the past few months. I'm using this airstrip event as my motivation.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Which is precisely why I use an unvented cap and have a towel covering the tank per my previous response. You could also put the tank up front where there is much more heat and risk setting your car on fire. The choice is yours I suppose.
    Hmm, I was under the impression that since the tanks are not rated for vaccum you would need to allow a small amount of air to enter the tank? Would the buildup of vaccum also not make it much more difficult to feed the pump? I know a lot of people on the other forum were saying they have unvented caps, but they were using standard kits that come with meth kits and all their cap threads were actually vented. You are one of the more aware guys on here so I'm assuming you switched out and bought an unvented cap? If the tank was vented I don't see how a towel would help. If having a fully sealed plastic container working under vaccum is possible I guess that kind of addresses one of my concerns.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by (-(ellblazer420 Click here to enlarge
    Hey Dr. G I know you and I see eye to eye on this whole meth tank thing. I was originally thinking of making a custom tank for to replace the current WW tank. After some consideration with a few fabrication buddies I have come up with a new idea.

    I recently discovered a two part epoxy that my MAC tools truck guy showed me the other day.
    It's called Rapid Fix http://www.rapid-fix.com/HOME.html
    It uses a epoxy combined with a welding powder. I saw one of our tech's using it in shop the other day and let's just say this stuff works wonders. I have seen what it can do for plastic, metal, and rubber. This is best epoxy I have seen yet and I would trust it to hold.

    I was thinking why not remove the WW tank. Then use this epoxy to fully seal the tank. I would use the epoxy to basically glue the level sensor, WW pump, and filler neck to the tank. I would use a few coats to basically weld the components together. I would then pressure test the whole system with shop air to ensure that there was no leaks. This is a cheap easy way to try and run the WW tank setup without the fear of leaks. Worst case scenario would be if you wanted to go back and replace all those parts it would be under $100 for Tischer. This would be a lot better than spending countless dollars on development of a new tank or fussing with a new tank location.

    What do you think?
    Haha yeah our opinions definitely aren't popular around here:p
    While your solution would do a great job at taking care of leaks, you still need to worry about the flash point. I was looking to move it away from the hot side and place it in a cooler location.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    Haha yeah our opinions definitely aren't popular around here:p
    While your solution would do a great job at taking care of leaks, you still need to worry about the flash point. I was looking to move it away from the hot side and place it in a cooler location.
    Understandable. Are you concerned about the meth reaching flash point within the WW tank? Or more concerned about spilling meth when refilling the tank?

    Because the tank actually sits on the other side of the frame rail and is pretty well isolated away from the heat of the turbos (I saw this when I had the WW tank out last year). The filler neck is the only thing I can see actually getting hot. We could then just heat wrap the filler neck.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    Hmm, I was under the impression that since the tanks are not rated for vaccum you would need to allow a small amount of air to enter the tank? Would the buildup of vaccum also not make it much more difficult to feed the pump? I know a lot of people on the other forum were saying they have unvented caps, but they were using standard kits that come with meth kits and all their cap threads were actually vented. You are one of the more aware guys on here so I'm assuming you switched out and bought an unvented cap? If the tank was vented I don't see how a towel would help. If having a fully sealed plastic container working under vaccum is possible I guess that kind of addresses one of my concerns.Haha yeah our opinions definitely aren't popular around here:pWhile your solution would do a great job at taking care of leaks, you still need to worry about the flash point. I was looking to move it away from the hot side and place it in a cooler location.
    My cap is definitely not vented. It hisses when you open the cap in the summer heat. And even if it were theoretically vented, the fumes need to go through two upright rear seats and a towel before it reaches you, which is microscopic at best. It's like saying whiffing one drag of secondhand cigarette smoke will kill you, but that's just a farce and everyone knows it.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by (-(ellblazer420 Click here to enlarge
    Understandable. Are you concerned about the meth reaching flash point within the WW tank? Or more concerned about spilling meth when refilling the tank?

    Because the tank actually sits on the other side of the frame rail and is pretty well isolated away from the heat of the turbos (I saw this when I had the WW tank out last year). The filler neck is the only thing I can see actually getting hot. We could then just heat wrap the filler neck.
    Yeah I was more concerned about the meth reaching flash point in the tank. The flash point is pretty darn low and I think it could very well get that hot in the WW tank. I'm not too worried about spilling since I'd be super careful and only fillup a cold car haha. Where would you be locating your pump?

    I cancelled out the WW spot just because there were too many unknowns with it, but here's a couple random thoughts that come into my head:

    If you are pulling the whole tank out maybe you could plastic weld a better/safer filler neck onto it and possibly have a screw on cap aswell. You could then throw some heat repellant wrap onto it aswell I guess. I would seal off all the venting/overflow points as well and then have a vent location right near the top of the filler neck. Throw some hose onto the vent and run it to outside the body and I'd probably throw a checkvalve in there as well. I'm not an expert though on the topic by any means, that's just what I brainstormed as I typed this. I know some people mentioned they had visibly boiling meth in their filler necks even when they had flow fluid levels so that leads me to believe that the meth is definitely heating up and also building up some pressure.

    If you don't mind ghetto rigging stuff and being overly cautious, you could throw down some silicone onto the belly pan and create kind of a channel that would direct any leaked meth to a little hole rather than the usuall spot where leaks usually end up.... right by the steaming hot downpipes.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    My cap is definitely not vented. It hisses when you open the cap in the summer heat. And even if it were theoretically vented, the fumes need to go through two upright rear seats and a towel before it reaches you, which is microscopic at best. It's like saying whiffing one drag of secondhand cigarette smoke will kill you, but that's just a farce and everyone knows it.
    Where did you purchase the cap from? Methanol is toxic at fairly microscopic levels, but I respect the fact that your opinions on the matter vary from mine so I'll drop that point since it's a matter of personal opinion.

    What's your take on throwing a fitting into the top of the tank and running some line to somewhere like the rear wheel well? If there's a checkvalve that opens both under 5-15psi and also under vaccum I could throw that into the line, it would help vent internal pressure if it builds up and if there's a buildup of vaccum it could allow a bit of air to enter the tank.


    If anyone else is reading this and is curious as to the amount of fumes that really do enter the cabin, throw some alcohol into the meth tank and drive around for a couple days.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    Methanol is toxic at fairly microscopic levels
    The fumes you mean?
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    Not sure what to think about meth fumes and toxicity... the Wikipedia write-up is scary even for a non-hypochondriac. However, millions of people for decades have been inhaling meth whenever they clean their windshield. Especially us Canadians with the higher meth winter formulations. I remember going through 4 liters in a week commuting on the damn 401 in bad weather.

    I trust someone is looking out for our safety??

    But then again they used to have lead tubes for tooth paste.... so maybe not lol

    I like the passenger side fender location myself. It would be nice to have a kit for that.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Dr. G Click here to enlarge
    If none of this is a good idea it's time to make a mould of the trunk compartment or to build a new trunk liner for the drivers side that can accomodate the stock amp + a small meth tank + a pump haha. Or maybe build that stainless tank I was thinking of for my trunk setup? I still prefer underhood since the thought of a flammable and highly toxic substance in my trunk is a bit unsettling.

    Doc, why not just fill up that tank with ethyl-alcohol, instead of meth? Both are viable obtions. Ethyl-alcohol, doesn't have any of the toxicity issues, has the exact same cooling effects, but with an ever so slight difference in horsepower. It's such a no-brainer!

    "ethyl-alcohol" or rather ethanol, is currently very popular on this forum. If not for Meth's toxicity, we would have been seeing M85 instead of E85. Click here to enlarge

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