Close

Results 1 to 16 of 16
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    On the Road Again
    Posts
    261
    Rep Points
    296.7
    Mentioned
    10 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    4 out of 4 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    N54 "Old School" Maintenance Schedule for Your Daily Driver

    Mike Miller of BMWCCA had sent me pages and pages of his suggested "Old School" maintenance tips for many different types of BMWs of various ages. He made some specific maintenance suggestions for the N54, which I have distilled down and listed below. Note that I believe his schedules seem to me to be rather conservative and are certainly designed for people who want to keep their cars for >100K miles. The schedule below is primarily for this of us who use our N54 bimmers as daily drivers. Clearly, lots more frequent maintenance is required if you track or race your car.

    Good luck!

    * Allow Turbocharger Warm-up and Cool-down
    * Change Brake fluid once every year
    * Oil and filter once every 5000-7500 miles, Redline 10W-40
    * Flush coolant once every two years
    * K&N oiled cotton gauze filters, clean every 15,000 to 30,000 miles depending on condition, use only K&N approved cleaner and oil, and follow K&N cleaning
    procedures.
    * Interior Air Filter: Variable every 15,000 (if fan on all the time) to 30,000 miles
    * Power Steering Fluid change every 30,000 miles
    * All-wheel drive transfer case every 30,000 miles (TF0870 83 22 0 397 244 (1 Liter))
    * Spark plugs every 30-45K
    * Fuel Filter: Variable every 30,000 to 60,000 miles (E90 fuel filter is in the fuel tank, $200 part)
    * ATF fluid flush refill and filter at 60,000 mile
    * Water pump, thermostat at 60K
    * Engine Drive Belts...Replace O.E. or O.E.M. BMW poly-ribbed serpentine belts every 60,000 miles. Replace O.E.M. Continental or Pirelli or original BMW V-belts every 30,000 miles.
    * Radiator, etc at 90K
    * Coolant and fuel hoses at 150K



  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    118,777
    Rep Points
    31,788.5
    Mentioned
    2084 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    318


    Yes Reputation No
    A good set of basic tips. Guys should know to get their oil temps up before hammering it and basic maintenance. A good reminder though.

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    QB, NYC
    Posts
    88
    Rep Points
    171.5
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    2


    Yes Reputation No
    Pretty much all in my head lol but Thanks this is good to have around and it is helpful. +rep. Click here to enlarge
    JB4+usb | BMS OCC | P3 Vent Boost Gauge v2 | BMS DCI | AMS FMIC | AR xi CL DP's | BT Tool | ER CP + Forge DVs | Cyba Quad Exhaust tips | M-Tech Rear & M3 Front Bumpers | Cyba Red Air Scoops | Blacklines | Vinyl Overlays | ACS Roof Spoiler | Matte Black Grilles | LED Side Mirrors | Rear Euro Fogs | Matte Black Window Trim | 30% Tints | Sports & Winter package | Black Leather Int. | Aluminium Trim | & a few other things...Tuned by: Burger Motorsports.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    85
    Rep Points
    244.0
    Mentioned
    6 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    3


    Yes Reputation No
    spark plugs should be changed at around 20-25k miles if tooned.
    Click here to enlarge

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Jacksonville, FL
    Posts
    2,942
    Rep Points
    2,873.1
    Mentioned
    78 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    29


    Yes Reputation No
    I especially like the thermostat and water pump at 60k, when that $#@!er goes, you're immediately stranded. I'm at 40k, clocks ticking.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    USA
    Posts
    1,923
    Rep Points
    1,825.9
    Mentioned
    11 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    19


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    I especially like the thermostat and water pump at 60k, when that $#@!er goes, you're immediately stranded. I'm at 40k, clocks ticking.
    It sucks big time. Mine went out on my e90 at about 50k miles. Couldn't go anywhere as soon as it crapped out.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    SoCal
    Posts
    118,777
    Rep Points
    31,788.5
    Mentioned
    2084 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    318


    Yes Reputation No
    The water pump does that?

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    504
    Rep Points
    825.9
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    9


    Yes Reputation No
    The water pump was on its way out on my fathers 335i with 63k miles. On a cold start, the fan would immediately turn on high and sound like a jet engine. Took it in and they replaced the pump under CPO warranty today.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    389
    Rep Points
    2.0
    Mentioned
    20 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Shocks, were done at 50K miles. Both motor mounts had play at 90K miles. Upper/lower control arms/tie rod assembly, F/R sway bar end links done at 75K...and the list goes on. Next up: vaccum hoses, serp belt, radiator, hoses, and fan.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Valley Stream NY
    Posts
    3,348
    Rep Points
    2,757.4
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    28


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    The water pump does that?

    The pump is electric on those motors...basically once it gets an open short in the winding or something, the motor goes into super limp mode, you get 3% power and all the fans go on high in an attempt to keep the motor from nuking itself.

    Ive also seen lately, the phenolic material they make the covers out of (is that correct anyone) seems to 'pit' naturally,especially when using NON OEM COOLANT!!! the deposits eat away at the inside, and ive seen them literally just piss a tiny stream right out of the housing.

    I would also suggest the coolant be changed every 50k. It turns from dark blue to a green/gold color when its worn out...usually change it up after that.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6
    Rep Points
    8.0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Can anyone shed some light on warming up and cooling down of the turbos?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Valley Stream NY
    Posts
    3,348
    Rep Points
    2,757.4
    Mentioned
    85 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    28


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by kalamokid Click here to enlarge
    Can anyone shed some light on warming up and cooling down of the turbos?
    dont beat the piss out of them when its cold, let the oil temps start coming up on the gauge before you lay into it, and usually 5 min before you get home, dont beat on it, drive it normally to let the oil temps come down...30 seconds idling in the driveway will help transfer a good amount of heat out.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    30
    Rep Points
    19.9
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    If you warm your turbos up that means getting them to operating temperature before boosting them hard. It will save your turbo seals as the oil pressure can exceed normal pressures and blow them out.
    If you run your turbos hard and shortly after don't cool them down they will coke. How much I don't know but just as the intake valves cook the oil fumes and make a nice hard material deposit the same can happen to the turbos but much less likely given they are both water and oil cooled.
    All it takes is a minute or two to let the engine idle circulating oil to take extra heat away and not sit there and cook.
    It is manditory in older super turbo charged aircraft I flew to let the turbos idle for 5 minutes to prevent this.

    The warm up is much more important for long life unless you have a habit of hammering the turbos and shutting them down right after that. Just normal driving for a few minutes is adequate to cool them off.
    Hope this helps...

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    6
    Rep Points
    8.0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Thanks guys! This is what I figured as well.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Posts
    18
    Rep Points
    11.6
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I have always been one for letting my turbos cool down.

    I have always been unsure of how long to wait.

    I usually give it 3-5minutes and open up the bonnet to let the engine cool a bit.
    These motors get HAWT!

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    2,729
    Rep Points
    2,484.0
    Mentioned
    40 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    25


    Yes Reputation No
    Drive your car around hard for a while then go get under the hood. You'll have a little more respect for the radiator and the heat these cars are enduring.
    Click here to enlarge
    Join the largest N5X Enthusiasts Group! 1200+ Members Strong!
    https://www.facebook.com/groups/n5xenthusiasts/

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •