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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    Here are 2 datalogs with 100% E85 and 100% meth with 1.20 scalar.. I was hoping the 100% E85 would help with my Ign Trimming but as you can see it didn't Click here to enlarge s0 we can assume there is something else wrong here..... One thing I did find is if i'm 100% throttle the car woukd run neg timing but if I backed off the throttle a little bit it woukd run the main timing table targets..

    What do you think could cause this??


    Yes sir that is the "flatline" I've been $#@!ing about for years now. I am all but certain it's not hardware.

    Do you have IJE0S ROM and a newer N54?

    In my testing with PTF however I stumbled upon a map that doesn't do this on my car. Im trying to see if it's possible to figure out what is causing it in all my maps except this one.

    Thats a question for dzenno.

  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Yes sir that is the "flatline" I've been $#@!ing about for years now. I am all but certain it's not hardware.

    Do you have IJE0S ROM and a newer N54?

    In my testing with PTF however I stumbled upon a map that doesn't do this on my car. Im trying to see if it's possible to figure out what is causing it in all my maps except this one.

    Thats a question for dzenno.
    When it happens, is it cylinder 1 advance taking a dive (indicating mapping), or does it stay steady and timing corrections jump up on each cylinder (indicating knock related correction)?
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  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    When it happens, is it cylinder 1 advance taking a dive (indicating mapping), or does it stay steady and timing corrections jump up on each cylinder (indicating knock related correction)?
    When it happens it shows up as a massive timing correction and is slow to ramp up. IIRC, chuck has the same problem. It happens on cylinders 1 and 4 when it happens though.

  4. #54
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Here is a pic of cyl #1 spark plug (right side plug) and cyl# 2 (left side) with 500 miles on them.. I'm think the injector is going bad as the car stumbles on start up
    Attached Images Attached Images  

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Yes sir that is the "flatline" I've been $#@!ing about for years now. I am all but certain it's not hardware.

    Do you have IJE0S ROM and a newer N54?

    In my testing with PTF however I stumbled upon a map that doesn't do this on my car. Im trying to see if it's possible to figure out what is causing it in all my maps except this one.

    Thats a question for dzenno.
    Yes IJEOS and 2010 335xi auto

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    Yes IJEOS and 2010 335xi auto
    Those plugs look like valve cover gasket to me.

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    I run the JB4 and always will but also have a COBB just because. Here's a log from the new E30 map. I'm FBO + meth and 40% E85. Obviously no meth as I wasn't running the JB4 in this log. Way too boost happy.
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    Those plugs look like valve cover gasket to me.
    Car has 25k Miles on it.. You think the valve cover gasket is bad and oil is getting on the plug?
    Im thinking the injector is on its way out as the coil pack is new and the old spark plug did not look like this... Plus the car stumbles for a few seconds on start up and cyl #1 knock voltage is always higher then the rest?

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    I just tested the racemaps.

    The race map feel strong, but my PT map by Mike@PRS (430whp/499wtq converted from mustang dyno) is still stronger and pulls harder through 5-6k. That might also be attributed to the PT map being tuned with meth. (obv)

    Great map though, very strong!

  10. #60
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    What did you put down on the Mustang? Have a chart?
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #61
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    Car has 25k Miles on it.. You think the valve cover gasket is bad and oil is getting on the plug?
    Im thinking the injector is on its way out as the coil pack is new and the old spark plug did not look like this... Plus the car stumbles for a few seconds on start up and cyl #1 knock voltage is always higher then the rest?
    http://bimmerboost.com/showthread.ph...ing-discussion

    http://bimmerboost.com/showthread.ph...inder-6-issues

    FWIW, car has about 40k miles on it now, still same coils, original injectors, new valve cover gasket done at 32-33k miles.

    Do me a favor, go back to Stage 2 + FMIC aggressive v301, do two 3-4 shifts, one at 6200 rpm, and one at redline. I bet you anything the one where you shift at 6200 RPM will drop timing after the shift and the one at redline won't. If you can do a 4-5 shift, you will see that ALL six cylinders will drop timing to 0 after the shift.

  12. #62
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    Myst is correct, I am getting this same annoying timing dip 3-4 shift, but letting the car shift at redlines seems to help/fix it, but not 100% of the time

    I have treid JB4 only, JB4 Flash, Stg 2+ , Alpha e30

    right now my strongest config is BMS flash with g5 and meth, the alpha race i tried is ok for a non meth map but still have drops on 3-4 shifts in DS and using paddles shifting where I "should"

  13. #63
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    http://bimmerboost.com/showthread.ph...ing-discussion

    http://bimmerboost.com/showthread.ph...inder-6-issues

    FWIW, car has about 40k miles on it now, still same coils, original injectors, new valve cover gasket done at 32-33k miles.

    Do me a favor, go back to Stage 2 + FMIC aggressive v301, do two 3-4 shifts, one at 6200 rpm, and one at redline. I bet you anything the one where you shift at 6200 RPM will drop timing after the shift and the one at redline won't. If you can do a 4-5 shift, you will see that ALL six cylinders will drop timing to 0 after the shift.
    Can you PM or email me the V301 map?
    I will def do whatever it takes for us to figure this out!!!

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ChuckD05 Click here to enlarge
    Myst is correct, I am getting this same annoying timing dip 3-4 shift, but letting the car shift at redlines seems to help/fix it, but not 100% of the time

    I have treid JB4 only, JB4 Flash, Stg 2+ , Alpha e30

    right now my strongest config is BMS flash with g5 and meth, the alpha race i tried is ok for a non meth map but still have drops on 3-4 shifts in DS and using paddles shifting where I "should"
    I could have sworn you had a manual 135i...

    I'll do some logs and see if I can reproduce the same timing dips.

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    0 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Moodist Click here to enlarge
    I am in the same boat, that's why I am having Jake of PTF come up to Philly for a tuning day.
    +2 Working with Jake very soon to maximize my S1+
    Click here to enlarge
    PTF Pro eTune by Dzenno / COBB S1+ E50
    Alpina B3 Flash / ETS FMIC / ER CP / DCI

  16. #66
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I am seeing this 3-4 shift issue on a manual xi. No knock correction during my in gear runs, but pulls timing on multiple cylinders...and for awhile, mind you...in 4th gear after a shift from 3rd.

    I'm wondering if it is a quick switch from lower timing at the top end of 3rd to very high timing while one is shifting/getting back on the gas and load is climbing. Lower loads run higher timing, so is it is a climb and quick drop causing this?

    I've yet to reach out to Cobb to ask if this is normal or maybe other noise being picked up by the knock sensor. I remember Subarus having shift knock due to a similar reason.

  17. #67
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vwgrk1 Click here to enlarge
    I am seeing this 3-4 shift issue on a manual xi. No knock correction during my in gear runs, but pulls timing on multiple cylinders...and for awhile, mind you...in 4th gear after a shift from 3rd.

    I'm wondering if it is a quick switch from lower timing at the top end of 3rd to very high timing while one is shifting/getting back on the gas and load is climbing. Lower loads run higher timing, so is it is a climb and quick drop causing this?

    I've yet to reach out to Cobb to ask if this is normal or maybe other noise being picked up by the knock sensor. I remember Subarus having shift knock due to a similar reason.
    Nope I have a tune that goes from 14 degrees at redline then spikes 12 degrees right after the shift into 4th.

  18. #68
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    Timing flatline after shifts is a tuning issue. It can't be fixed with piggybacks. Ben's car was a chronic flatliner and a half and I've managed to resolve it through tuning...it took a ton of time to track down using various means but with the right tools at hand its definitely curable/tunable..its not a one fix fits all solution either but more in overall calibration for a given car

    Funny how one famous tuner swore his PWM meth kit was the solution to it, so sad
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Josh@Cobb Click here to enlarge
    Enjoy guys! Jason's 535xi is a beast on this tune. Go install, datalog, and get us some .

    Can someone point me to this Jason guy, what kinda mods dose he have?

  20. #70
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Timing flatline after shifts is a tuning issue. It can't be fixed with piggybacks. Ben's car was a chronic flatliner and a half and I've managed to resolve it through tuning...it took a ton of time to track down using various means but with the right tools at hand its definitely curable/tunable..its not a one fix fits all solution either but more in overall calibration for a given car

    Funny how one famous tuner swore his PWM meth kit was the solution to it, so sad
    Great to hear!
    What is Ben's screen name?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    Great to hear!
    What is Ben's screen name?
    I'm pretty sure its themyst

  22. #72
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RnmEvo9 Click here to enlarge
    I'm pretty sure its themyst
    Yep
    Click here to enlarge
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  23. #73
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by boosted-M Click here to enlarge
    Here is a pic of cyl #1 spark plug (right side plug) and cyl# 2 (left side) with 500 miles on them.. I'm think the injector is going bad as the car stumbles on start up

    No way that is oil. If you had oil, you would see oily around the hex used to pull the sparkplug out, AND the threads would be wet...oil will not dry out like that.


    It is an injector...Id prolly replace that one to start, and maybe the rest at another point soon. Stumbling on start up? 95% sure its an injector.

  24. #74
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RnmEvo9 Click here to enlarge
    I could have sworn you had a manual 135i...

    I'll do some logs and see if I can reproduce the same timing dips.

    I did. I sold it and moved on to a 09 coupe. Missed a white car (all my cars have been white) and needed a loaded car. 1 was fun though. This is the first AT car I've owned in my life that costed me more than 2k but it's relaxing yet enjoyable.

    its AW with coral red mtech 7at. Stripped the 1 moved to this. Also can't wait to put a proper wheel on it.

  25. #75
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    Too bad it isn't a simple solution, but it is good to know that there are ways to fix it. May I ask: is this true knock that I have to worry about?

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