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  1. #51
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    I don't have the WOTBox software anymore but i do remember that i read the instruction from N2MB racing on how to troubleshoot the software. i remember having issues with the software setup and the clutch position when i first got it all hooked up right. something about pressing the clutch and reading the voltage in the software. then releasing the clutch and reading the voltage again with the software. the directions tell you which one should have the 5V.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    @bigdnno98

    Help!

    I installed the WOTbox, all wires are correct, except I'm not too sure about the pair of wires going to the coils. The Red/Black and Red wire pair, is the Red/Black going into pin 8 of the green connector and the red goes to the remaining cut length of orange wire? My piggy was on pin 8, and I moved it to pin 2 (other wire) on that connector. It's difficult to tell from your pic.

    Inside of the software, clutch read 0.38 up and 5V down. I don't see any adjust ability for this value or anywhere to input it. Standard values for all cars maybe? I forget what the TPS value is while non-depressed, depressed it reads 2.05V. RPM is reading correctly. I set the time during NLS at 250ms.

    Trying to use launch control, it just redlines. And NLS, it doesn't seem to drop RPMs fast enough, but it isnt redlining either as it would without the WOTbox. Does dropping the NLS time delay to say, 100ms, drop RPMs faster? I'm not sure this is working correctly.

    Edit: Should also clarify that the WOTbox is set to Mazda Speed 3 & 6 and it does say 6 cylinders.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  2. #52
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    Look at your TPC(V) in the bottom left (vehicle snapshot) of the screen. Mine says .37 UP when the gas pedal is not depressed. Now, press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and click read again. Mine says 2 as in 2 volts. From here I had to go up to the launch control box and change the TPS threshold (V) value to 1.9. This lets the WOTBox know when it receives 1.9V from the ECU that the gas pedal is fully depressed. Click write. Test it again, press the gas pedal to the floor and click read, it should say ~2.0 and down. If this works, your WOTBox blue wire is installed correctly. If it does not read any V in the box check your blue wire install. Next, do the same thing with the clutch pedal. Push the clutch pedal to the floor and click read. Mine reads 5V when fully depressed. I did not have to change this setting at all. If It does not read any V in the box check your green wire install.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  3. #53
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    i remember mine said mazdaspeed and 6 cylinders so you should be good there.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  4. #54
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    @lulz_m3 you may remember more than i do as you still have your 335i right?
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  5. #55
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Busy enjoying the camera mans ass in my face at the moment, but I have install pics at home.
    Click here to enlarge
    These are my settings.
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  6. #56
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    Went a pre-season Charger game a few years ago. Waste of time doesn't feel anything like game atmosphere.
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  7. #57
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    @Tzu some pics are terribly out of focus, so i apologize in advance but hopefully this helps. I also don't have a piggy, not sure if that changes anything.

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
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  8. #58
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    Thanks @lulz_m3, confirmed my ignition wiring looks the same. Because i can read RPM, clutch voltage and TPS, I assume those wires are installed correctly. I'll be in Jax on deployment in Nov, If you're around I'll buy you a beer.

    Also, my settings are the same. I'll follow the troubleshooting tree tomorrow and see if I can find something.

  9. #59
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Thanks @lulz_m3, confirmed my ignition wiring looks the same. Because i can read RPM, clutch voltage and TPS, I assume those wires are installed correctly. I'll be in Jax on deployment in Nov, If you're around I'll buy you a beer.

    Also, my settings are the same. I'll follow the troubleshooting tree tomorrow and see if I can find something.
    Sounds good man, i work on NAS Jax, definitely hit me up. GL.
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  10. #60
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    Click here to enlarge

    Pretty sure my ignition wires are spliced correctly. @dzenno you ran one of these with your procede, is there anything I am overlooking?

  11. #61
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    What kind of issues are you having?
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  12. #62
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    Post a screen shot of your interface settings
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  13. #63
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    Launch control and NLS doesn't work. I mean, during shifts, RPMs don't fall, they sustain the same RPM for say 1/10th of a second, it would redline if I left I didn't shift in that window, clutching like that will burn the clutch after 10 pulls. Aren't the RPMs supposed to fall?

  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge

    TPS is 0.6V because I put a little throttle to test RPM. Functions correctly.

  15. #65
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Launch control and NLS doesn't work. I mean, during shifts, RPMs don't fall, they sustain the same RPM for say 1/10th of a second, it would redline if I left I didn't shift in that window, clutching like that will burn the clutch after 10 pulls. Aren't the RPMs supposed to fall?
    I'm not sure about the RPM's, but you should hear the ignition cutout for a very short time. For LC, you are putting the clutch fully depressed and pushing the accelerator pedal all the way to the floor and its not cutting ignition at whatever RPM you set the 2 step to engage at?
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  16. #66
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    I haven't read up on "alternate RPM" so maybe disable that just to rule it out, also try raising the RPM above 2000, i think i read somewhere that it has a minimum RPM which is 2k.
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  17. #67
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    Yea, no ignition cut at all, so that's why I was chasing the red/black and red paired wires. It's hard to tell since both ends disappear into wire bundles.

  18. #68
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    "The 2‐step will not engage if the gas is depressed before the
    clutch"

    That is from the mazdaspeed6 install instructions. OP says to step on gas first, RPMS would shoot up otherwise on these cars, so thats understandable.

  19. #69
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    Rescind my last post, 2-step works, BUT it's extremely rough. I've seen vids of JB4 and procede doing it, and their 2-step is smooth and stable at the target RPM. My target is 2500rpm and it bounces between 2250rpm and 2750rpm. Also, it appears that NLS may be working, but I probably overhyped it in my head. I assumed it would be like a revmatch, but mine holds rpms at whatever I clutched-in at and doesn't drop; feelsbadforclutchman.

  20. #70
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    pretty sure i had to disable the alternate RPM. try that. i may smooth out your 2 step
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  21. #71
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    it's working like it should it sounds like. it will cut ignition for the time perscribed in your software. 250ms it looks like. I got mine down to around 100ms i think. i personally found that it wasn't that hard on my clutch. I NLS ALOT lol.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Launch control and NLS doesn't work. I mean, during shifts, RPMs don't fall, they sustain the same RPM for say 1/10th of a second, it would redline if I left I didn't shift in that window, clutching like that will burn the clutch after 10 pulls. Aren't the RPMs supposed to fall?
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  22. #72
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Rescind my last post, 2-step works, BUT it's extremely rough. I've seen vids of JB4 and procede doing it, and their 2-step is smooth and stable at the target RPM. My target is 2500rpm and it bounces between 2250rpm and 2750rpm. Also, it appears that NLS may be working, but I probably overhyped it in my head. I assumed it would be like a revmatch, but mine holds rpms at whatever I clutched-in at and doesn't drop; feelsbadforclutchman.
    Its because the RPM's are so low. Bump it up to 3k and its better, but basically becomes useless for street tires. I honestly just turned the 2 step off until i get the cajones and ($$) to beef up the rear end and throw some slicks on. The NLS is money.

    NLS wont revmatch but should be smooth dropping to whatever RPM you next shift falls at. My car basically sounds like a DCT when rolling through the gears, but i'm also shifting at 125ms. If you can shift pretty quickly, try dropping that time down from 250ms in 25ms increments until you can shift smooth and repeatable. You literally want the ignition power turning back on right as you are engaging the clutch.

    When your shifts feel like this;
    Click here to enlarge


    You're doing it right.
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  23. #73
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    ^^^^^ LMFAO! tried to rep. looks like i rep you too much Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  24. #74
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    Lol, I tried to rep too and it wont let me. I'll try raising the 2-step, just to see if it works, since I won't ever use it either. NLS however, the RPMs don't drop at all, not yet anyway. Feels like going into 1st gear at 2000rpm, just a strong kick as the clutch grabs since the engine is overrevving for the next shift. I probably overhyped this thing in my minds eye.

  25. #75
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    I think you just need to try to shift faster Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    Lol, I tried to rep too and it wont let me. I'll try raising the 2-step, just to see if it works, since I won't ever use it either. NLS however, the RPMs don't drop at all, not yet anyway. Feels like going into 1st gear at 2000rpm, just a strong kick as the clutch grabs since the engine is overrevving for the next shift. I probably overhyped this thing in my minds eye.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

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