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  1. #26
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    I recommend n2mb. I got mine off eBay and when it showed up it was only one mode or the other at the same time. Meaning I couldn't use both the 2step and NLS together. I had to spend $70 more to upgrade putting me over the $199 a new dual mode cost from n2mb.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  2. #27
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    I just went to place my order and it looks like these guys are local to me, that NEVER happens lulz. Gonna see if i can swing by to pick one up.

  3. #28
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    Nice. Yeah nothing is ever local to me either. Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  4. #29
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    Where exactly did you get the correct user interface? I followed the link but it has the SRT4 selected as the vehicle and its grayed out with no options for a pull down.

  5. #30
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    Mine did too. Is there 6 cylinders in the cylinder box? If so and you followed the link for the 335i software then that's the right one.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  6. #31
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    No it has 4 cylinders and wont let me change it. I downloaded it from the link.

    I havent connected to the wotbox yet, not sure if that would make a difference but i assume no.

  7. #32
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    @dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks , @bigdnno98 , did you guys manually set the NLS delay or leave it on auto? I tried the auto setting at first but the shifts were terrible as the ignition was being cut way too long. I ended up manually adjusted it down to 50ms and its pretty good. After reading the user manual and seeing that the auto setting is suppose to adjust itself, i set it back to auto but its pretty rough, still feels like someone is slamming on the brakes during the shift even after about 5 shifts. If you left it auto, how long did it take to adapt to the correct delay?
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  8. #33
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    Mine never auto adjusted. Mine is on 300ms. I shift slow Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  9. #34
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    lol, C'mon man! Although i may work on slowing it down, my timing takes a dump post shift when hitting it that fast.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  10. #35
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    It'd be nice if @dzenno car was running. We could ask him for some NLS logs Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  11. #36
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    I did some NLS logs today. They were pretty solid.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I did some NLS logs today. They were pretty solid.
    Are you running the cobb backend flash yet? Curious how timing looks on all 6 cyls. Cyl 2 & 5 are most active for me.
    2011 E90 M3 \ Melbourne Rot Metallic

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  13. #38
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    I'm running the backend flash. Haven't logged with Cobb though. Don't even know how yet lol
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  14. #39
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    I mean I know how to log the Cobb but I thought when stacking them you couldn't log with cobb
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I mean I know how to log the Cobb but I thought when stacking them you couldn't log with cobb
    The channels that aren't being manipulated by the JB should be able to be logged fine. If your not using CPS you should be able to log timing with no issues.
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  16. #41
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    Ill read dzennos how to Cobb and jb4 thread. He talks about it in there. Ill try to do some logging tomorrow.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I mean I know how to log the Cobb but I thought when stacking them you couldn't log with cobb
    Correct, both the JB4 and Cobb handheld use the same x6F1 diagnostic port and thus can not simultaneously operate.
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  18. #43
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    Didn't consider that, i stand corrected.
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  19. #44
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    Any reason why I cant tap the piggyback harness and install this box?

  20. #45
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    If I remember right, there isn't a wire in the PB harness that monitors clutch position. that is one you have to tap directly into the OEM harness or add a jumper into the PB harness. The WOTBox red/black paired wires go into the green connector that powers the JB4 (not same wire though) so can't use that for PB either. maybe the other two you could. i'm not sure. you would have look into the JB4 harness and see if there are wires at the place where you would intercept the OEM wires, CPS and accelerator position
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  21. #46
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    What size posti taps do you guys recommend I'm seriously considering trying the wotbox out!

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    i just installed it and when the clutch is down it doesnt work the launch control? it only works when the clutch is up? that makes no sense am I doing it wrong? all the readings are poping up in the right tresholds!

  23. #48
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    bumping for a forum member.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  24. #49
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    @bigdnno98

    Help!

    I installed the WOTbox, all wires are correct, except I'm not too sure about the pair of wires going to the coils. The Red/Black and Red wire pair, is the Red/Black going into pin 8 of the green connector and the red goes to the remaining cut length of orange wire? My piggy was on pin 8, and I moved it to pin 2 (other wire) on that connector. It's difficult to tell from your pic.

    Inside of the software, clutch read 0.38 up and 5V down. I don't see any adjust ability for this value or anywhere to input it. Standard values for all cars maybe? I forget what the TPS value is while non-depressed, depressed it reads 2.05V. RPM is reading correctly. I set the time during NLS at 250ms.

    Trying to use launch control, it just redlines. And NLS, it doesn't seem to drop RPMs fast enough, but it isnt redlining either as it would without the WOTbox. Does dropping the NLS time delay to say, 100ms, drop RPMs faster? I'm not sure this is working correctly.

    Edit: Should also clarify that the WOTbox is set to Mazda Speed 3 & 6 and it does say 6 cylinders.

  25. #50
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Ok. the orange wire. don't move your piggy power. keep it on whatever it is supposed to be on. the other orange wire in the green connector is the one you want. i don't remember exactly which number it is. make sure you have the red one on the correct side and the black one on the correct side.

    WOTBox Black/Red paired-orange wire on the green connector that powers the JB4. It is not the orange wire that powers the JB4 but the other orange wire on that green connector. You must cut this wire and hook the black wire of the WOTBox to the orange wire you cut that goes to the coils. The red wire from the WOTBox will go on the other side of the orange wire you cut, closest to the DME. I used male and female wire connectors for this. I put a male on one side of the stock orange wire and a female on the other side of the stock orange wire. This way when you remove your WOTBox you can just connect those connectors together, heat shrink them and you are good to go.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tzu Click here to enlarge
    @bigdnno98

    Help!

    I installed the WOTbox, all wires are correct, except I'm not too sure about the pair of wires going to the coils. The Red/Black and Red wire pair, is the Red/Black going into pin 8 of the green connector and the red goes to the remaining cut length of orange wire? My piggy was on pin 8, and I moved it to pin 2 (other wire) on that connector. It's difficult to tell from your pic.

    Inside of the software, clutch read 0.38 up and 5V down. I don't see any adjust ability for this value or anywhere to input it. Standard values for all cars maybe? I forget what the TPS value is while non-depressed, depressed it reads 2.05V. RPM is reading correctly. I set the time during NLS at 250ms.

    Trying to use launch control, it just redlines. And NLS, it doesn't seem to drop RPMs fast enough, but it isnt redlining either as it would without the WOTbox. Does dropping the NLS time delay to say, 100ms, drop RPMs faster? I'm not sure this is working correctly.

    Edit: Should also clarify that the WOTbox is set to Mazda Speed 3 & 6 and it does say 6 cylinders.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


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