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  1. #1
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    Official WOTBox Install DIY

    ******You must cut one wire and tap into 3 other wires on your factory wiring harness. If you are still under warranty, do this at your own risk. If you go into the dealer for major warranty work, they may refuse coverage if they see you have messed with the factory harness. This mod is not undetectable like many of the others on the forum. Do this at your own risk**************

    Step 1 is to ensure you have the correct drivers and software on your computer for the WOTBox. You will need a serial to USB cord and the proper driver for that cord. Do this before you start wiring in your WOTBox. Use this interface. You will use the Mazda speed 3 or 6 vehicle in the vehicle drop down box. Ensure, in the number is cylinders block, that the number 6 is in the box and not able to be edited.
    http://www.npcompleteperformance.com/WOTBoxUserInterfaceV3.9.zip

    Step 2 is to disconnect the negative battery cable in the trunk. (If not, you may end up with a dead battery like me)


    Step 3 is to remove your cowl. If you are a JB4 or Procede tuned car, you know exactly how to do this. If not see the install instructions on the BMS website for the JB4 install, they are very detailed with pictures.


    Step 4. Connect the following WOTBox wires to the corresponding wires in your ECU box. I tried using posi-taps but the WOTBox wires are much larger than the ECU wires and I could not get a good connection. I simply cut some of the insulation off of the ECU wires, wrapped the WOTBox wire on it and electrical taped it. Not a pretty install but was the best I could come up with knowing it wasn’t permanent. You could pull the pin out of the ECU connector, slide heat shrink down the wire over where you spliced and use heat shrink if you wanted to but I knew I was removing mine soon to bring the car into service. I will heat shrink them when I get the car back since it’s really easy to remove the pin from the connector and just slide the heat shrink on.

    WOTBox Green-clutch switch BLUE/BROWN pin 2 at the switch or BLUE/BROWN pin 18 at the ECU X6001 (small grey connector)
    WOTBox Yellow-RPM Source-CPS wire-YELLOW wire pin 29 at ECU X6005 (large black connector)
    WOTBox Blue-accelerator pedal position sensor – WHITE/YELLOW wire pin 7 at ECU X6001 (small grey connector)
    WOTBox Black/Red paired-orange wire on the green connector that powers the JB4. It is not the orange wire that powers the JB4 but the other orange wire on that green connector. You must cut this wire and hook the black wire of the WOTBox to the orange wire you cut that goes to the coils. The red wire from the WOTBox will go on the other side of the orange wire you cut, closest to the DME. I used male and female wire connectors for this. I put a male on one side of the stock orange wire and a female on the other side of the stock orange wire. This way when you remove your WOTBox you can just connect those connectors together, heat shrink them and you are good to go. Obviously you will put the corresponding male/female connector on the WOTBox red and red/black wires to plug into the orange wire connectors. Place your heat shrink on the wires and slide it down some so you can connect the connectors. Then, slide the heat shrink over the connector and heat it up with a heat gun or lighter or something.
    Connect the USB/serial cable and run the serial through your firewall to your glove box. Instructions for this are on the forum and probably on the BMS website for the USB install.
    WOTBox Black-Chasis Ground-I grounded this to the bolt in the strut mount where my FSB is grounded. (Sorry I forgot to take a picture of that, but chasis ground is pretty self explanatory even for me)


    Step 5. These steps are very important since the WOTBox does not come configured for the n54.

    Turn your key on the on position and connect your laptop to the WOTBox via the USB cable you ran to your glove box. Click the “read” button. It will tell you that you are now connected to your WOTBox. Look at your TPC(V) in the bottom left (vehicle snapshot) of the screen. Mine says .37 UP when the gas pedal is not depressed. Now, press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and click read again. Mine says 2 as in 2 volts. From here I had to go up to the launch control box and change the TPS threshold (V) value to 1.9. This lets the WOTBox know when it receives 1.9V from the ECU that the gas pedal is fully depressed. Click write. Test it again, press the gas pedal to the floor and click read, it should say ~2.0 and down. If this works, your WOTBox blue wire is installed correctly. If it does not read any V in the box check your blue wire install. Next, do the same thing with the clutch pedal. Push the clutch pedal to the floor and click read. Mine reads 5V when fully depressed. I did not have to change this setting at all. If It does not read any V in the box check your green wire install. Next, check your RPM on the software and compare it to the tach on your dash. If they are the same, your WOTBox yellow wire is installed correctly. If not, check your WOTBox yellow wire installation and ensure it is on pin 29 on the large black connector (X6005).
    Once all of that is complete, input your desired RPM into the RPM box in the launch control section.
    Ensure to input your new value into the TPS (V) block on the no-lift $#@! section also, then click write.

    Step 6. Start your car. Quickly press the gas pedal to the floor and immediately step on the clutch. You should hear the engine start to rev up, stumble for a short period while the ignition is cut, then return back on and continue revving. Ensure you lift off the gas pedal before you reach 7K RPM.


    Step 7. While the car is running, press the clutch pedal all the way to the floor, then press the gas pedal to the floor. The WOTBox should cut ignition at the RPM you set in the user interface. If it fails to stop you probably installed the RED/BLACK wires backwards.


    Refer to the N2MB website for general (non vehicle specific) install instruction and troubleshooting procedures.


    I will post the link to some vidoes of the WOTBox in action soon.

    Enjoy!

    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
    Last edited by bigdnno98; 08-30-2012 at 02:15 PM.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  2. #2
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    Sweet!! Click here to enlarge I wanted to write this DIY forever but never got to it...i'd suggest some spacing in the instructions so its easier on the eyes and to follow through
    Click here to enlarge

  3. #3
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    If you are a piggy back tuned car, I see no reason to use the WOTBox as the BMS (I don't know much about the Procede/Vishnu one) is plug and play, undetectable and Terry is working the bugs out as we speak. If you are stock or Cobb tuned then this will be an awesome tool for you (unless you care about your warranty). BE ADVISED, again, the dealer WILL know that you have messed with the ECU compartment if he looks in the ECU box after you install the WOTBox even if you remove the WOTBox for service. With that being said, NLS is SO smooth and I'm keeping a min of 10lbs of boost through the shift. I haven't launched with the 2 step yet but it certainly works as described. I have mine set at 3K RPMs and it bounces off 3K +/- 300 RPM pretty smoothly. I'll test it out tomorrow night at the track. To me, I'm glad I installed this, got it working and did the DIY for the community but would have much rathered just staying with my BMS module and not cutting up wires in my ECU compartment. I'm taking the car in for service soon so we'll see if they say anything about it once I return the car to stock.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  4. #4
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    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Sweet!! Click here to enlarge I wanted to write this DIY forever but never got to it...i'd suggest some spacing in the instructions so its easier on the eyes and to follow through
    HAHA, yeah, I copied and pasted from a word doc and the spaces didn't make it in. I went back in to edit, I think its OK now.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  5. #5
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    Let's see a couple logs with it wired in, see those fast shifts...are you running DRs at the track?
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #6
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    Nope, kook V12s (they hook pretty good for 500tq) and if you think Terry's shifts were slow, you'll call mine molases. HAHA. I'll post up some logs from tomorrow night though, we're working on a lean condition post shift right now. I'm waiting till spring to put the nitto NT555rs on.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  7. #7
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    Has there been any records broken using this? Would it still make sense having the AR line lock on top of this?

  8. #8
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    Dzenno, you're running both right? I think he's using his line lock for burnouts mainly. Records broken, I think Dzenno owns the MT TT n54 1/4 ET record at 11.43 ET, not sure if he was using his WOTBox for that one or not.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  9. #9
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    WOTBox used for sure, otherwise its hard to get ETs down with the 6MT...that was with Cobb's provided alpha version of the stg3 race map...these days with E85 things have gotten quite a bit more aggressive though..

    In terms of getting NLS to not lean out post shift I don't think you'll be able to solve that issue...sometimes it'll just happen and the solution will be in the flash...piggyback way I'd be very surprised if it was consistently fixed...sometimes it'll be fine, other times it'll lean and the come down...but definitely see what can be done and if you can have it always come down fast with just the piggy controlling fuel

    Word of advice, don't let off gas once you get going off the line, EVER Click here to enlarge just be really really fast tapping that clutch to get the gears changed and let off fast...it can be faster than what an 6AT does shifts wise if you do it right...6ATs shift in 100-150ms...DCT though another story
    Click here to enlarge

  10. #10
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    Click here to enlargeThis is a log from my first attempt at NLS.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  11. #11
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    Why does that boost come down? Running into jb4's lean protection?

    Throttle is nice and wide open though and timing doesn't drop out so that's good...log gear as well to see how fast you shift

    Line lock for sure, can't do a proper melter burnout without it Click here to enlarge but that's all its used for...good burnout is key too!

    Aahhh man, you guys give me butterflies, man I miss my ride daamnn Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  12. #12
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    Yeah, I'll be running Terry's back in flash soon. I have to return the car to stock for warranty work soon. After I get it back I'm putting my clutch and FW in, so I have the break in period after that. Once all that is done, I'll get the flash on it with the G5 and the NO2 and we'll go from there. I was hoping to put off the warranty work till winter but the car is not cooperating.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  13. #13
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    Yeah, not sure why the boost was dropping like that, prob the AFR.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  14. #14
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Yeah, I'll be running Terry's back in flash soon. I have to return the car to stock for warranty work soon. After I get it back I'm putting my clutch and FW in, so I have the break in period after that. Once all that is done, I'll get the flash on it with the G5 and the NO2 and we'll go from there. I was hoping to put off the warranty work till winter but the car is not cooperating.
    WOTBox can cut your nitrous out during NLS and 2-step..there's a way to configure it with a nitrous cut switch if you look at their software but you'll need to run a wire from it to whatever activates your nitrous..Terry should have an idea how best to wire it up
    Click here to enlarge

  15. #15
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    I rather the G5 run the nitrous, it has more monitoring ability than the WOTBox. With the G5 I can set min/max AFR, Boost, RPM, gear, etc. The WOTBox is not that flexible. It relies mainly on RPM and TPS for activation/deactivation.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  16. #16
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    Definitely have the JB run nitrous using its nitrous window configuration setup BUT since you'll have the wotbox run NLS it'd be a good idea IMO to run the wire to the JB or the nitrous relay so that during NLS the JB would close the solenoid and not spray..a bit risky otherwise since your throttle is wide open timing is up boost is there rpm is there and the only thing shutting nitrous off during NLS would be AFR going lean (as WOTBox cuts ignition out in turn causing the DME to turn fuel off) which is not the greatest idea
    Click here to enlarge

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    Terry should make a PNP harness similar to piggies for stock users. I suppose piggypack users can tap their existing harness.

  18. #18
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    Its not hard to make a pnp harness, you just need to source some connectors. Its just 4-5 wires in the harness, on each side...i asked the N2MB guys when i was wiring mine in if they could make it PNP but to them it was too expensive to bother with given demand didn't justify it much..
    Click here to enlarge

  19. #19
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    Awesome write-up, thanks man!

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    Definitely have the JB run nitrous using its nitrous window configuration setup BUT since you'll have the wotbox run NLS it'd be a good idea IMO to run the wire to the JB or the nitrous relay so that during NLS the JB would close the solenoid and not spray..a bit risky otherwise since your throttle is wide open timing is up boost is there rpm is there and the only thing shutting nitrous off during NLS would be AFR going lean (as WOTBox cuts ignition out in turn causing the DME to turn fuel off) which is not the greatest idea
    I was just planning on not spraying NO2 while I was NLSing, just choosing one or the other really. Do you think it's possible to have the G5 run the nitrous and still have the WOTBox cut solenoid power during NLS?
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  21. #21
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Awesome write-up, thanks man!
    My pleasure. Can't wait to write up the NO2 DIY Click here to enlarge
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  22. #22
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I was just planning on not spraying NO2 while I was NLSing, just choosing one or the other really. Do you think it's possible to have the G5 run the nitrous and still have the WOTBox cut solenoid power during NLS?
    I think you can wire it up that way as the WOTBox can deactivate a nitrous switch, you just have to enable that part of it in the software AFAIK
    Click here to enlarge

  23. #23
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    @blisstik, sick avatar Click here to enlarge AMD?
    Click here to enlarge

  24. #24
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    Awesome write-up, thanks man!
    +1, glad somebody did this. Thank you!

    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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    Fantastic post, thanks! Where's everyone getting their WOTBox from, direct from N2MB?

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