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  1. #1
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    Question Have we established what power levels the stock AT can take?

    I've been looking at the RB set-up and talking to Jake at ProTuningFreaks regarding this set-up. I'm still having concerns regarding the ability of the AT to take a RB turbo/ETS FMIC/AR DPs/pump gas set up. I also have the Quaife LSD, but don't want to take the car to the level that would require aftermarket axles either.

    I drive 100 miles roundtrip a day when I'm not deployed, so reliability is key for me. My head tells me not to do since the car is still under warranty (haven't put the downpipes on yet), but my heart says take the plunge and enjoy it.

    Turbos are one thing, but adding the cost of a stout tranny and alxes are another.

    Thanks guys.

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    How much drag racing do you do?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    How much drag racing do you do?
    None. I wouldn't be against it if I was home more (been wanting to do it for a while now), but it's almost entirely highway driving with the occasional spirited departure from a red light. I've thought about doing a road course thing if I could ever find the time.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by El Duce Click here to enlarge
    None. I wouldn't be against it if I was home more (been wanting to do it for a while now), but it's almost entirely highway driving with the occasional spirited departure from a red light. I've thought about doing a road course thing if I could ever find the time.
    Rear axle damage/breakage is a 6MT thing. With a 6AT you get to preload your drivetrain on launch taking out a lot of the driveline shock that 6MTs incur.

    Tuning for about 440ft-lbs for auto transmissions on pump gas with RBs could net about 440-450whp on good pump octane and driving as you described should also leave the auto transmission relatively reliable. All depends how you drive it and maintain it in the end as you can bust a transmission with stock power too.
    Click here to enlarge

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    Common sense dictates that if you don't beat on the car, the less likely something will break. I tend to keep it very conservative for daily driving, but have cranked it to 21 psi, simply because it pulls like a freight train. Click here to enlargeGo easy on the gas while commuting or if you don't have that kind of self control, run a conservative map and crank it when needed. Fwiw, I flushed my 6AT ATF when I did the RBs at 32k miles and the fluid looked pristine. Probably could have gone a good while longer.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    This is where a piggy shines! Pop a JB4 in and turn up the shift damper.

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    follow your heart...head is for chicks

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    Beef it up and have peace of mind.

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    as others have said, its not at a specific power level. it all depends on driving style.

    that said, if you're going RB's, you may want to invest in a Level10 upgrade later on.

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    If you dont drag race the trans should last a long time. i mean, mine went to what 80K+ miles? first 40k was original owner, so no idea, but the last 40k of mine were HARD, HARD on the trans. very few people i feel have logged more than me in these cars. i was drag racing it from day 1.

    now, the shafts may or may not be neccessary. I did them because i wa all out. BUT i know dan and his E93 actually scrwed his up, and he never drag raced..

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mike335i Click here to enlarge
    This is where a piggy shines! Pop a JB4 in and turn up the shift damper.
    the Shift damper setting wouldn't save the trans where it matters most, which is torque post-shift.

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    If you dont drag race the trans should last a long time. i mean, mine went to what 80K+ miles? first 40k was original owner, so no idea, but the last 40k of mine were HARD, HARD on the trans. very few people i feel have logged more than me in these cars. i was drag racing it from day 1.

    now, the shafts may or may not be neccessary. I did them because i wa all out. BUT i know dan and his E93 actually scrwed his up, and he never drag raced..
    Dan's car was lowered, right? If it is, explains it.

    We'll see how long my car lasts on the stock trans. I don't really beat on the car much lately because its so damn hot, but I did do some 21 psi runs like I said before.

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    IF you drive the car like it was stolen, the trans wouldn't hold up in an AT, MT or DCT. It's been said already, but there is a difference between driving the car like you're trying to break something & driving the car fast (which is strongly encouraged) Click here to enlarge
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    never drag raced from a dig and my AT went south anyway but this on meth and 20 psi .
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    the Shift damper setting wouldn't save the trans where it matters most, which is torque post-shift.
    I thought that was the entire point of the feature? Maybe @Terry@BMS can shed some light on this?

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Thanks guys for all the replies . . . but based on them I guess the real answer is either A) we don't know or B) depends on how hard you drive it.

    And the same answer could be given on the need for upgrade axles, although there seems to be less consensus on that one.

    You know, back in my early days of modding, it was pretty straightforward about power levels, eg, it was understood that a 700R4 (GM 4 speed auto) could take about 400hp before needing to be beefed up (this is in the day of 240hp top performing engines) . . . or that the 7.5" 10-bolt rear end could take about 450 lb/ft before it was only a matter of time before the pinion walked up the ring gear and your $#@! exploded.

    Then again, many of those parts (or their earlier ancestors) had been made in the hundreds of millions and they had been thoroughly abused by the hot rod community.

    I'm not trying to have Jake break any records Click here to enlarge with this set up. I not horribly interested in going the meth route and I'm not trying to break into the 10s. We have 93 octane in my hood, so I don't know what the logical expectations are for a set up like this . . . high 11s in good weather? Although that leads me to question whether or not my Conti DWS' can hold the power.

    Thanks again.

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    how long do you want a trans to last?

    I had a 99 Lightning that blew the trans at like 29k miles, the 2nd week i owned it..that thing was 420hp/565tq 12.3@109mph an i had a 335 with 512hp/520tq that ran 11.10@127 with 80k miles on it..

    If youd dont drag race, i see no reason why it wouldnt last 70k miles, if not a lot more

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    Continental DWS should hold fine. The only gear you'd have issues with is 1st. 2nd for the most part hooks up. I run the same tires.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by El Duce Click here to enlarge
    I've been looking at the RB set-up and talking to Jake at ProTuningFreaks regarding this set-up. I'm still having concerns regarding the ability of the AT to take a RB turbo/ETS FMIC/AR DPs/pump gas set up. I also have the Quaife LSD, but don't want to take the car to the level that would require aftermarket axles either.

    I drive 100 miles roundtrip a day when I'm not deployed, so reliability is key for me. My head tells me not to do since the car is still under warranty (haven't put the downpipes on yet), but my heart says take the plunge and enjoy it.

    Turbos are one thing, but adding the cost of a stout tranny and alxes are another.

    Thanks guys.
    Instead of RB's, why not use the money for buying and installation, on a level 10 trans upgrade. I think Level 10 even picks up your car, and returns them. That way you can get a bulletproof trans. The only other thing you then have to worry about after that is the stock twins, which should be good to like 16lbs of boost.

    I have a modded 6AT with 95K miles, shifting like the day I bought it. I don't drag race, and I only race on road courses. I also maintained the piss out of my trans, with regular tranny flushes.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    Instead of RB's, why not use the money for buying and installation, on a level 10 trans upgrade. I think Level 10 even picks up your car, and returns them. That way you can get a bulletproof trans. The only other thing you then have to worry about after that is the stock twins, which should be good to like 16lbs of boost.

    I have a modded 6AT with 95K miles, shifting like the day I bought it. I don't drag race, and I only race on road courses. I also maintained the piss out of my trans, with regular tranny flushes.
    I know numerous people here with high mileage N54s running fully bolted + meth at well over 16 psi with their autos holding up perfectly fine. I already have 4k sitting here for my Level 10 build, but why build a perfectly good stock trans until it actually breaks?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    I know numerous people here with high mileage N54s running fully bolted + meth at well over 16 psi with their autos holding up perfectly fine. I already have 4k sitting here for my Level 10 build, but why build a perfectly good stock trans until it actually breaks?
    I was just giving my advise, on what I would do with the money he wants to burn on RB's. Given the choice over which part to gamble on, it's senseless to gamble on the tranny, instead of the turbos. If your tranny goes south, the dealer will rape you. You will need a $1,200 tranny reprogramming, on top of the fact that they will drop in a POS re-manufactured tranny into your car, and charge you full price.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by themyst Click here to enlarge
    I know numerous people here with high mileage N54s running fully bolted + meth at well over 16 psi with their autos holding up perfectly fine. I already have 4k sitting here for my Level 10 build, but why build a perfectly good stock trans until it actually breaks?
    No two people drive their cars the same way. There are a lot of people on internet car forums, whose heavily modified car's stock components hold up just fine. Too often, you find some wannabe maverick out there bragging about the reliability of his rarely driven garage queen. Whereas the rare few, like enrita, who are out there pushing their cars, also have the nuts to report back when their stock components fail, so as to better inform the community.

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    I guess i dont get any recognition anymore Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Turkeybaster115 Click here to enlarge
    No two people drive their cars the same way. There are a lot of people on internet car forums, whose heavily modified car's stock components hold up just fine. Too often, you find some wannabe maverick out there bragging about the reliability of his rarely driven garage queen. Whereas the rare few, like enrita, who are out there pushing their cars, also have the nuts to report back when their stock components fail, so as to better inform the community.
    You are missing the one guy who actually took his car to level 10 first, and that was LM. Steves was the prototype setup, whoever has that car now is lucky.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@AUTOCouture Click here to enlarge
    You are missing the one guy who actually took his car to level 10 first, and that was LM. Steves was the prototype setup, whoever has that car now is lucky.
    You learn something new everyday.

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