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  1. #26
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    It's not an issue to me as long as it's not terrible, though I've never had a LW flywheel before. So, I guess we'll see when it's installed.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  2. #27
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    I bet in most of the cases the engine and exhaust are more noisy than LWFW.

  3. #28
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    Keeping the stock FW does not hold as much torque as LWFW. Some don't even provide a torque rating for stock FW. Spec 3+ is rated at 570 at the flywheel with their own LWFW. Keeping the stock flywheel means the rating is decreased, even though it is not even provided by SPEC. If someone has 500 lb ft at the wheels, it is above the 570 at the FW.

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 654 Click here to enlarge
    I bet in most of the cases the engine and exhaust are more noisy than LWFW.
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 654 Click here to enlarge
    Keeping the stock FW does not hold as much torque as LWFW. Some don't even provide a torque rating for stock FW. Spec 3+ is rated at 570 at the flywheel with their own LWFW. Keeping the stock flywheel means the rating is decreased, even though it is not even provided by SPEC. If someone has 500 lb ft at the wheels, it is above the 570 at the FW.
    Flywheel isn't what's holding the clutch in place. Its the clamping force of the pressure plate and the material on the clutch disk. The only reason lighter flywheels are used is to allow for easier rev matching. In the case of most people with an N54 they're not visiting auto-x events and they'll just lose out with a LWFW in hwy rollons, drag racing and will hate their car because of chatter and hard time getting off idle in stop/go traffic. I had it, I didn't mind it too much but when I went back to the stock dual mass flywheel I fell in love with the car again and realized I actually hated the LWFW. It didn't provide for any added performance over stock, if anything I lost performance in the type of driving I do. It only added chatter for the most part and also added vibrations you could feel under the seat.

    Its not worth getting it on this car IMHO. Unless you've had one on THIS car you wouldn't know what it means, trust me.

  5. #30
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    So what clutch are you running now with the RBs Dzenno? I would have just went with HPF but I drag race often and will be using drag radials soon. I heard it was easy to weld up their feramic disk?
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  6. #31
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    So what clutch are you running now with the RBs Dzenno? I would have just went with HPF but I drag race often and will be using drag radials soon. I heard it was easy to weld up their feramic disk?
    I have the HPF Stage 2 Feramic. Yes, I've heard it might weld as well but I've also heard many on the supra forums LOVE the feramic clutches. This HPF clutch material is what they use on the SPEC stage 5 clutches if you look. Its a metallic clutch.

    When I talked to HPF (both @HPF Chris and the other sales guys there) they ASSURED me (their words) this clutch will do awesome at the drag strip. I told them how the ACT held up but it is organic and they said not to worry even with my strong appetite for the drag strip and that they also run it on all their turbo cars. As this was my 4th clutch (stock held up for 80,000km, CM 6puck ceramic and their lwfw held up for 4000km, ACT organic held up for 40,000km and was still holding when i took it out for the HPF Stage 2 Feramic and a brand new OEM DMF) I really didn't want to make a mistake especially given how expensive it is for just the clutch without the flywheel. I went with HPF's feramic after reading tons of great reviews on feramics on the supra forums and their reassurance that it'll be "the last clutch I'll ever buy" (their words). Really hope their words were not in vein and their clutch will put up at the strip as I'm not shy with it.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Flywheel isn't what's holding the clutch in place. Its the clamping force of the pressure plate and the material on the clutch disk. The only reason lighter flywheels are used is to allow for easier rev matching. In the case of most people with an N54 they're not visiting auto-x events and they'll just lose out with a LWFW in hwy rollons, drag racing and will hate their car because of chatter and hard time getting off idle in stop/go traffic. I had it, I didn't mind it too much but when I went back to the stock dual mass flywheel I fell in love with the car again and realized I actually hated the LWFW. It didn't provide for any added performance over stock, if anything I lost performance in the type of driving I do. It only added chatter for the most part and also added vibrations you could feel under the seat.

    Its not worth getting it on this car IMHO. Unless you've had one on THIS car you wouldn't know what it means, trust me.
    I value your experience; you tried it out and went back to the stock flywheel. Some people seem to value the easier rev matching though. But what do you mean by losing out in hwy rollons? Lighter flywheel should theoretically provide quicker acceleration, but in the real life the difference is meaningless. Getting off the line with lwfw in drag racing can be a problem indeed.

  8. #33
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 654 Click here to enlarge
    I value your experience; you tried it out and went back to the stock flywheel. Some people seem to value the easier rev matching though. But what do you mean by losing out in hwy rollons? Lighter flywheel should theoretically provide quicker acceleration, but in the real life the difference is meaningless. Getting off the line with lwfw in drag racing can be a problem indeed.
    I'm speaking from experience with the lwfw and racing on the hwy and measuring with a vbox. There is zero measurable difference in acceleration with the lwfw that I had (16lb ClutchMasters 2-piece single mass aluminum flywheel). If anything you lose by having the flywheel not keep the energy between shifts up as its spinning and RPMs dropping further than they would with the heavier OEM DMF. The heavier flywheel stores rotational energy and helps keep RPMs up which is what you want for both launch as well as fast shifts.

    Quicker rev matching is only for those heavily into auto-x or tight road course racing and in the N54 community there are VERY few to my knowledge. If you're into that then 500wtq isn't for you anyways.

  9. #34
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    Well I'm not putting mine on until after the drag racing season is over (unless the stock clutch doesn't cooperate). This winter I'll probably put the RBs and clutch/FW on at the same time. Review will follow but obviously not for a while. Dzenno are you doing any more racing this year? If so, I can't wait to hear reviews on the HPF clutch. It was really down to the HPF and Spec Stage 3+ for me. I just wanted this to be the last clutch I buy too. LOL
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Well I'm not putting mine on until after the drag racing season is over (unless the stock clutch doesn't cooperate). This winter I'll probably put the RBs and clutch/FW on at the same time. Review will follow but obviously not for a while. Dzenno are you doing any more racing this year? If so, I can't wait to hear reviews on the HPF clutch. It was really down to the HPF and Spec Stage 3+ for me. I just wanted this to be the last clutch I buy too. LOL
    When someone tells me it'll be the last clutch i'll ever buy for my car I want to punch them to be honest LOL I hope its as good as it sounds and it'll put up at least as good as the ACT's organic material which didn't mind slip much. I don't slip the clutches at all anyways at the strip and I have a 2-step wired up so launching is a lot more controlled than without a 2-step.

    I'm hoping my car will be ready in the next 2-3 weeks and be ready to take a beating at the drags

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Well I'm not putting mine on until after the drag racing season is over (unless the stock clutch doesn't cooperate). This winter I'll probably put the RBs and clutch/FW on at the same time. Review will follow but obviously not for a while. Dzenno are you doing any more racing this year? If so, I can't wait to hear reviews on the HPF clutch. It was really down to the HPF and Spec Stage 3+ for me. I just wanted this to be the last clutch I buy too. LOL
    I've been driving on a HPF stage 1 since last week and its not bad, but not what i expected. This thing does not like to slip at all. I'm praying it will either break in more or i get used to it over the next few weeks. There's times when i look like a first time stick driver pulling away from a light.

    Pedal stiffness is probably 25% more than stock. Height is slightly lower than stock - i have the BMS clutch stop and i need to reduce the number of "shims" to give me some additional room.

    On a positive note, it definitely holds the power no problem.

  12. #37
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lulz_m3 Click here to enlarge
    I've been driving on a HPF stage 1 since last week and its not bad, but not what i expected. This thing does not like to slip at all. I'm praying it will either break in more or i get used to it over the next few weeks. There's times when i look like a first time stick driver pulling away from a light.

    Pedal stiffness is probably 25% more than stock. Height is slightly lower than stock - i have the BMS clutch stop and i need to reduce the number of "shims" to give me some additional room.

    On a positive note, it definitely holds the power no problem.
    It should smooth out a tiny bit but don't expect much. Its a metallic clutch after all made for big torque.

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    I'm speaking from experience with the lwfw and racing on the hwy and measuring with a vbox. There is zero measurable difference in acceleration with the lwfw that I had (16lb ClutchMasters 2-piece single mass aluminum flywheel). If anything you lose by having the flywheel not keep the energy between shifts up as its spinning and RPMs dropping further than they would with the heavier OEM DMF. The heavier flywheel stores rotational energy and helps keep RPMs up which is what you want for both launch as well as fast shifts.

    Quicker rev matching is only for those heavily into auto-x or tight road course racing and in the N54 community there are VERY few to my knowledge. If you're into that then 500wtq isn't for you anyways.
    I was thinking about revs after upshifting and I cannot see how the flywheel weight could affect it. For example, if you give it full throttle while upshifting, the revs will go down from the red line to the RPM defined by the vehicle speed and transmission ratio.

  14. #39
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    Gear ratios dont matter as transmission is unloaded during shifts, its just the flywheel/crank turning

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Gear ratios dont matter as transmission is unloaded during shifts, its just the flywheel/crank turning
    I mean the gear ratio defines the RPM right when you let off the clutch and the gear is engaged because the kinetic energy of the car backed up by the whole mass of the car forces the RPM to be the vehicle speed divided by the gear ratio.

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 654 Click here to enlarge
    I mean the gear ratio defines the RPM right when you let off the clutch and the gear is engaged because the kinetic energy of the car backed up by the whole mass of the car forces the RPM to be the vehicle speed divided by the gear ratio.
    Its not about the car moving. Its the time between shifts when the drivetrain is disengaged that the RPM drops lower with a lwfw than with a heavier dual mass.

    In any case, having had it on the car and trying to take advantage of its "lighter" nature at the strip was meaningless. All I got was a hard time launching, rattle on the street and just overall regret I went with it instead of the OEM DMF.

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Its not about the car moving. Its the time between shifts when the drivetrain is disengaged that the RPM drops lower with a lwfw than with a heavier dual mass.
    If you worry about RPM's falling in that short period of time when you quick shift, you can always apply full throttle for all that time and keep the revs at the limiter, right?

  18. #43
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    You "could" but a bad idea unless you're running NLS of some sort to kill ignition between shifts. It really kills the clutch without it. In any case, my point is that when I got it back then it was to gain noticeable performance/acceleration out of the car and to save money on getting another OEM DMF. I ended up saving a bit of money on the part and it only hampered my performance. Without going into the 4000km it lasted me with only one trip to the drags.

    Just not what people may think once you actually get to run it..

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