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  1. #1
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    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    REVIEW: ACT 6 Puck HDR6 Clutch

    I'm going to try my best to keep a long story short but be warned, there's a lot of details here that need to be stated. I bought this used clutch kit from a member on E90post who initially bought the kit from AR Design, installed it, and then thought something was wrong with it because of the shuddering that he experienced. He took it out after about 35 miles and sent it in to ACT to inspect it. ACT didn't find anything wrong with it and sent him this letter stating the clutch is fine:
    Click here to enlarge
    He ended up installing a new OEM clutch instead and decided to sell the ACT. He had trouble selling it and I ended up talking him down to 200 shipped. My stock clutch was still holding up decently but had slipped on me a couple times drag racing after being heated up too much.
    I knew that the clutch was going to be have a bit of shuddering which is normal for a clutch like this (I own a 6 puck ACT clutch for my high HP prelude) so that didn't bother me, and it being used didn't bother me either since it had an inspection letter from ACT saying it was good and hell, it was only 200 bucks.
    I installed it and it worked very well for the first several hundred miles. Very good engagement point, surprisingly a little higher than stock, and the added pedal pressure wasn't too bad at all. I really enjoyed the clutch until it started giving me problems. Soon it starting making screeching noises when downshifting and then it began to get hard to put it in 1st gear from a stop. After the break-in period I took it to the track for autox, drag racing, and a time attack that I never made it to. During autox I was getting second gear grind under high load when coming off the start line but other than that it ran fine. Drag racing the next day went perfectly fine on street tires, got a good 8 runs or so in between my wife and I. Then I threw on the drag radials and after one average burnout I rolled up to the start line and couldn't get it into gear, the clutch would not disengage. Click here to enlarge
    I took the tranny off for inspection and sure enough the disc had welded itself to the flywheel/ pressure plate. The pressure plate came off semi easily but I had to pry it off the flyweel with the backside of a hammer. Here is the aftermath:
    Click here to enlarge
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    I sent an email to ACT with pictures and an explanation of what happened. They asked me to call in and after talking to them over the phone they refused to warranty it since it was bought used and I was using it outside it's torque rating (I told him I dyno'd just over 500 ft lbs forgetting that their rating of 565 ft lbs is at the flywheel, not the wheels). They offered a good deal on a new clutch kit ($385) and I didn't bother fighting since I knew it was a longshot being that it was a used clutch anyway. I took the weekend to think about it and do some more research and emailed them again Sunday night.
    I came across this post by dzenno over on E90 about torque actually being higher at the wheels rather than the flywheel, the opposite of horsepower, due to gearing:
    "Excellent read on why torque at the engine is less than at the wheels (opposite of whp)...

    http://danielmiessler.com/study/horsepower/

    Oh and with upgraded turbos if you just manage to extend/hold boost longer to say 6500rpm instead of ~5600rpm-5800rpm which seems to be peak whp on stockers you can really see how much an organic clutch will hold in terms of whp, so same torque as before but held longer...example:

    On stock turbos say you hold 400wtq at 5600rpm :
    Whp = (400 * 5600)/5252 = 426whp

    Now, imagine you upgrade turbos and now can extend that same torque curve by 1000rpm, here's what you get:
    Whp = (400 * 6600)/5252 = 502whp

    This is why clutches are rated for torque holding capacity and not whp (hp is calculated based on RPMs)...

    So, theoretically speaking, on N54s with a top RPM of 7000rpm, if you managed to tune your car to hold ACT's claimed organic disc holding power of 456tq what does that mean in terms of PEAK whp possible on their organic on this TUNE:

    Whp = (456 * 7000)/5252 = 607whp
    Now all we need to do is find means of shifting the torque curve In all honesty I don't think these numbers are realistic but I wouldn't be worried about this ACT clutch even with a 35 nitrous shot....launching hard a lot will destroy any clutch prematurely...

    I'll report back on the ACT clutch as soon as I'm through my break in.."

    After reading that link dzenno posted and realizing I might actually be within the torque rating of the clutch I decided I needed to push harder on ACT. I nicely told them in the email that I'm questioning ACT as a good clutch for this car, gave him that same link, and said being the clutch was inspected by them before going into my car I sincerely hope they will do more than just give me a good deal on a new clutch. I also told them very politely that I will be posting up a detailed review on the main 335i forums. I also told him that regardless of their decision, I will still take a new clutch from them since I can't afford a different brand and my stock one won't hold up any better.
    I gave them plenty of time to reply and didn't receive a response so I pinged them again early afternoon today and finally got a response at the end of the business day. He said that they are sticking with their decision and after talking to their engineers and doing some research of his own, I'm wrong and torque at the flywheel is indeed higher than at the wheels. Here is a link he sent to me to help justify that:
    http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...s/viewall.html
    I still don't know enough about the matter to come to my own conclussion on who is right but, either way, it appears that my only option at this point is to go with a new one at a discounted price since I can't afford the more expensive options and need this car back on the road.
    One positive thing he told me is that ACT is now using a new type of ceramic material on this clutch disc that will hold more power and should do much better than the last one. I guess this has been out for 1.5 months now although I couldn't find any info on it.
    I'm considering putting their organic street disc in since it's more proven on this car but the guy from ACT thinks that is a bad move and believes I will start slipping immediately when the power level I'm at. I will probably just try their new 6 puck and hope for the best since I'm limited on options at this point.
    I will update this review once I have the new one in there with some decent miles logged. I can only suggest staying away from this clutch until then.
    Click here to enlarge
    '07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Turbos l JB4 G5 with MHD E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l Custom Exhaust l BMS Short Shifter l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450

    Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
    Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7

    '08 E60 MT Fully Loaded l JB4 G5 with BB Pump BEF l BMS DCI l 335is Clutch

  2. #2
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    Gearing multiplies TQ, simple as that. I would think any gearing increses would outweigh the DT losses so I highly doubt you broke 565 Ft-Lbs at the clutch.

  3. #3
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    How does that melt like that? Too much torque would just slip, not melt that. Unless that's what was happening. Slipping to a point where it got so hot and just melted. I wonder what material they use for the clutch...
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  4. #4
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    a 6 puck on a dd car is not that recommended.... you cant use it as you do with normal clutch.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
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  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    a 6 puck on a dd car is not that recommended.... you cant use it as you do with normal clutch.
    +1 but its the 6 puck nature of it, its the ceramic material on the pucks...those clutches hate to be slipped in daily driving
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #6
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    YEah, you just have to dump the clutch with those right?
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by fastgti69 Click here to enlarge
    How does that melt like that? Too much torque would just slip, not melt that. Unless that's what was happening. Slipping to a point where it got so hot and just melted. I wonder what material they use for the clutch...
    Clutch never slipped on me

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    a 6 puck on a dd car is not that recommended.... you cant use it as you do with normal clutch.
    Totally understand that, but it's my only option at this point
    Click here to enlarge
    '07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Turbos l JB4 G5 with MHD E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l Custom Exhaust l BMS Short Shifter l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450

    Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
    Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7

    '08 E60 MT Fully Loaded l JB4 G5 with BB Pump BEF l BMS DCI l 335is Clutch

  8. #8
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by prelude2perfect Click here to enlarge
    I'm going to try my best to keep a long story short but be warned, there's a lot of details here that need to be stated. I bought this used clutch kit from a member on E90post who initially bought the kit from AR Design, installed it, and then thought something was wrong with it because of the shuddering that he experienced. He took it out after about 35 miles and sent it in to ACT to inspect it. ACT didn't find anything wrong with it and sent him this letter stating the clutch is fine:
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...CTLetter-1.jpg
    He ended up installing a new OEM clutch instead and decided to sell the ACT. He had trouble selling it and I ended up talking him down to 200 shipped. My stock clutch was still holding up decently but had slipped on me a couple times drag racing after being heated up too much.
    I knew that the clutch was going to be have a bit of shuddering which is normal for a clutch like this (I own a 6 puck ACT clutch for my high HP prelude) so that didn't bother me, and it being used didn't bother me either since it had an inspection letter from ACT saying it was good and hell, it was only 200 bucks.
    I installed it and it worked very well for the first several hundred miles. Very good engagement point, surprisingly a little higher than stock, and the added pedal pressure wasn't too bad at all. I really enjoyed the clutch until it started giving me problems. Soon it starting making screeching noises when downshifting and then it began to get hard to put it in 1st gear from a stop. After the break-in period I took it to the track for autox, drag racing, and a time attack that I never made it to. During autox I was getting second gear grind under high load when coming off the start line but other than that it ran fine. Drag racing the next day went perfectly fine on street tires, got a good 8 runs or so in between my wife and I. Then I threw on the drag radials and after one average burnout I rolled up to the start line and couldn't get it into gear, the clutch would not disengage. Click here to enlarge
    I took the tranny off for inspection and sure enough the disc had welded itself to the flywheel/ pressure plate. The pressure plate came off semi easily but I had to pry it off the flyweel with the backside of a hammer. Here is the aftermath:
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...image_15-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...image_14-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...image_13-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...image_12-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...image_11-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_9-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_8-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_7-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_6-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_5-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_4-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_3-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_2-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im.../image_1-1.jpg
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...07/image-1.jpg

    I sent an email to ACT with pictures and an explanation of what happened. They asked me to call in and after talking to them over the phone they refused to warranty it since it was bought used and I was using it outside it's torque rating (I told him I dyno'd just over 500 ft lbs forgetting that their rating of 565 ft lbs is at the flywheel, not the wheels). They offered a good deal on a new clutch kit ($385) and I didn't bother fighting since I knew it was a longshot being that it was a used clutch anyway. I took the weekend to think about it and do some more research and emailed them again Sunday night.
    I came across this post by dzenno over on E90 about torque actually being higher at the wheels rather than the flywheel, the opposite of horsepower, due to gearing:
    "Excellent read on why torque at the engine is less than at the wheels (opposite of whp)...

    http://danielmiessler.com/study/horsepower/

    Oh and with upgraded turbos if you just manage to extend/hold boost longer to say 6500rpm instead of ~5600rpm-5800rpm which seems to be peak whp on stockers you can really see how much an organic clutch will hold in terms of whp, so same torque as before but held longer...example:

    On stock turbos say you hold 400wtq at 5600rpm :
    Whp = (400 * 5600)/5252 = 426whp

    Now, imagine you upgrade turbos and now can extend that same torque curve by 1000rpm, here's what you get:
    Whp = (400 * 6600)/5252 = 502whp

    This is why clutches are rated for torque holding capacity and not whp (hp is calculated based on RPMs)...

    So, theoretically speaking, on N54s with a top RPM of 7000rpm, if you managed to tune your car to hold ACT's claimed organic disc holding power of 456tq what does that mean in terms of PEAK whp possible on their organic on this TUNE:

    Whp = (456 * 7000)/5252 = 607whp
    Now all we need to do is find means of shifting the torque curve In all honesty I don't think these numbers are realistic but I wouldn't be worried about this ACT clutch even with a 35 nitrous shot....launching hard a lot will destroy any clutch prematurely...

    I'll report back on the ACT clutch as soon as I'm through my break in.."

    After reading that link dzenno posted and realizing I might actually be within the torque rating of the clutch I decided I needed to push harder on ACT. I nicely told them in the email that I'm questioning ACT as a good clutch for this car, gave him that same link, and said being the clutch was inspected by them before going into my car I sincerely hope they will do more than just give me a good deal on a new clutch. I also told them very politely that I will be posting up a detailed review on the main 335i forums. I also told him that regardless of their decision, I will still take a new clutch from them since I can't afford a different brand and my stock one won't hold up any better.
    I gave them plenty of time to reply and didn't receive a response so I pinged them again early afternoon today and finally got a response at the end of the business day. He said that they are sticking with their decision and after talking to their engineers and doing some research of his own, I'm wrong and torque at the flywheel is indeed higher than at the wheels. Here is a link he sent to me to help justify that:
    http://www.modified.com/tech/modp-10...s/viewall.html
    I still don't know enough about the matter to come to my own conclussion on who is right but, either way, it appears that my only option at this point is to go with a new one at a discounted price since I can't afford the more expensive options and need this car back on the road.
    One positive thing he told me is that ACT is now using a new type of ceramic material on this clutch disc that will hold more power and should do much better than the last one. I guess this has been out for 1.5 months now although I couldn't find any info on it.
    I'm considering putting their organic street disc in since it's more proven on this car but the guy from ACT thinks that is a bad move and believes I will start slipping immediately when the power level I'm at. I will probably just try their new 6 puck and hope for the best since I'm limited on options at this point.
    I will update this review once I have the new one in there with some decent miles logged. I can only suggest staying away from this clutch until then.
    Really well detailed but a couple things stood out.

    First of all, disappointed ACT after inspecting their own clutch would not stand by it. I suppose they have no way of knowing what happened to it second though after the inspection. Still, I would have liked to see something more out of them.

    They are correct in that you are wrong regarding torque at the flywheel and wheels. Flywheel number will be higher.

    Either way, at least you are getting a good deal on a new clutch.
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  9. #9
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    Ouch. That really sucks, I've seen a couple of ACT clutches fail in my experience.
    -Is there any reason you didn't use an aftermarket flywheel with the ACT clutch?
    -Did you resurface the flywheel before installing the clutch?

    I'm not trying to be a hater or anything, but I'm just trying to help problem solve.

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    I think that something isn't quite right here,I think Act could be stretching that claim of their clutches but I would take the new clutch to be rating tested and approved many clutch places round here will charge a few bucks to test it and I'm pretty sure any of the top places should be able to least recon that clutch you burned on there

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Really well detailed but a couple things stood out.

    First of all, disappointed ACT after inspecting their own clutch would not stand by it. I suppose they have no way of knowing what happened to it second though after the inspection. Still, I would have liked to see something more out of them.

    They are correct in that you are wrong regarding torque at the flywheel and wheels. Flywheel number will be higher.

    Either way, at least you are getting a good deal on a new clutch.
    I learned from another member on another forum that I'm right that the transmission does in fact multiply torque BUT the dyno takes that into account and calculates back to the flywheel. So indeed it's the same as HP since there is still drivetrain loss. I figure a 10-12 percent drivetrain loss on my RWD so I still wasn't too far off. My biggest issue is that the clutch never slipped on me, it held all the power without slipping until it fused. I personally think it was a flawed material and that's why they changed it.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by MikeB Click here to enlarge
    Ouch. That really sucks, I've seen a couple of ACT clutches fail in my experience.
    -Is there any reason you didn't use an aftermarket flywheel with the ACT clutch?
    -Did you resurface the flywheel before installing the clutch?

    I'm not trying to be a hater or anything, but I'm just trying to help problem solve.
    I'm not using an aftermarket flywheel because ACT does not currently make one for this car and I'd rather not mix brands. Plus, I'm currently using an ACT 6 puck on my other car with a stock flywheel with zero problems.

    I did not resurface the flywheel since it's very hard to find anyone to do so and I couldn't afford a new one. I inspected the flywheel closely and reused.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by newoldschool Click here to enlarge
    I think that something isn't quite right here,I think Act could be stretching that claim of their clutches but I would take the new clutch to be rating tested and approved many clutch places round here will charge a few bucks to test it and I'm pretty sure any of the top places should be able to least recon that clutch you burned on there
    I doubt they are stretching their rating claim, in fact, I'm sure they underrate it a bit if anything. Like I said before, it never slipped it simply failed. If it did slip, it slipped during the burnout and fused immediatley which I definitely didn't feel it slipping.


    Anyway, got the new clutch kit in today and will finish installing by tomorrow night. I'll do a break-in and then take it to the track this weekend for some fun at PowerCruise USA...
    Click here to enlarge
    '07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Turbos l JB4 G5 with MHD E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l Custom Exhaust l BMS Short Shifter l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450

    Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
    Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7

    '08 E60 MT Fully Loaded l JB4 G5 with BB Pump BEF l BMS DCI l 335is Clutch

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    The load on the clutch is by far more complex than just looking at the torque spec. for the engine and select a clutch that will hold this torque. If it would be this simple the ACT street clutch would do fine also for extended use at the drag strip without problems.

    The challenge comes when the clutch is shock-loaded, which occurs at every hard launch. The shock-load on the clutch then depends in; engine rotational mass, engine power, gear selection, weight, launch RPM, how fast the clutch is dumped, tyre size and quality, surface temperature, friction etc. All this combined togheter will easily cause a situation where the organic street clutch will have a hard time and a good 6 puck clutch is better suited. The optimal clutch that works perfectly for street use and at the drag strip doesn't exist.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by prelude2perfect Click here to enlarge
    I learned from another member on another forum that I'm right that the transmission does in fact multiply torque BUT the dyno takes that into account and calculates back to the flywheel. So indeed it's the same as HP since there is still drivetrain loss.
    It is correct that torque multiplies with gearing after the flywheel, which is not the case with power (hp). It is also correct that there could theoretically be a bit more torque at the flywheel than at the wheels. But this would need a 1 to 1 gearing in total after the flywheel, which is never the case since the final gear is about 3 to 1. Bottom line, the torque on the wheel is at least about 3 times higher than on the crank, and a lot more on lower gears.

    Example: The tyre diameter for a 265/30/19 wheel is about 25". This gives about 2 meters travel for each rotation. Assuming the total gearing is 1 to 1 on 6th and the car is spinned at 6000 rpm, this would give a speed of 2* 6000/60= 200 m/s, about 720 km/h. The actual speed at this RPM is more like 250 km/h, so the conclusion is the total gearing on 6th is about 720/250= 2.9 to 1. This means the torque at the wheels is 2.9 times more than at the flywheel on 6th gear.

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    Update:
    New clutch is in with about 1k miles on it. Took it easy for the first 400 miles with a couple hard slips to break it in per ACT's instructions. Then I took it out to PowerCruise USA (best racing event I've ever done btw) and put my car to it's limit around the road course. Clutch never slipped pushing full power with dozens of 30-160mph runs. Did street style 1/8 mile drag racing as well but only on my street tires with a light launch. No burnouts yet. So far so good. Good engagement point with the clutch stop removed. Only complaint is that it still makes that loud screeching noise when engaging the clutch durning downshifting. Not sure if that's normal or not.
    Click here to enlarge
    '07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Turbos l JB4 G5 with MHD E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l Custom Exhaust l BMS Short Shifter l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450

    Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
    Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7

    '08 E60 MT Fully Loaded l JB4 G5 with BB Pump BEF l BMS DCI l 335is Clutch

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    Did you have a Clutch Delay Valve with the first 6 Puck? That would explain why it was overheated and failed.

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    CDV delete was my first modification to this car, so no that wasn't the issue.
    Click here to enlarge
    '07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Turbos l JB4 G5 with MHD E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l Custom Exhaust l BMS Short Shifter l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450

    Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
    Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7

    '08 E60 MT Fully Loaded l JB4 G5 with BB Pump BEF l BMS DCI l 335is Clutch

  17. #17
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    Must be all that clutch dumping. /sarcasm.

  18. #18
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    Well, after talking to ACT and Spec and CM and reading reviews on the HPF, I decided to go with Spec Stage 3+ with lightweight flywheel. When I spoke to ACT they told me that the tq ratings given for thier (and all) clutches was at the flywheel. He said he wouldn't recommend the street disk to anyone with over 375tq to the wheels. My next choice was the ACT 6 puck. He advised me that puck clutches weren't meant for the street and that the life span of the clutch would never meet what a full face disk could do. That then led me to either CM or Spec. i have read many complaints on the forums about the CM clutches so I went straight to spec. I know that shiv is still running a spec clutch on the single turbo car so that helped make my decision easier also. It came down to the stage 2+ with LW flywheel, stage 3+ without flywheel and the stage 3+ with LW flywheel. I really didn't want any chatter so I really wanted to keep the OEM flywheel. After seeing the weight difference and reading former boosted IS review on his LW flywheel I decided to just go with the Stage 3+ with LW flywheel. This should cover me when I put RBs on the car next year. Hopefully this is the last clutch I ever buy for this car! I got a pretty good package deal on the clutch and FW from Jeff at TGS.

    Full review to come once installed later this fall.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I have following mods:

    RB turbos
    Spaerco FMIC
    VRSF catless, ceramic coated DPs
    Mr. 5 Intake
    Vishnu Procede Rev 3 (soon Cobb)
    Vishnu PWM Meth kit
    BMW Performance Exhaust
    Forge DVs

    My stock clutch still holds, however, I'm already looking for a new one. This will be a decision between the HPF and Spec Stage 2+ clutch. I want to re-use my stock flywheel. Any thoughts?

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by B///MW Click here to enlarge
    This will be a decision between the HPF and Spec Stage 2+ clutch. I want to re-use my stock flywheel. Any thoughts?
    You can reuse your stock flywheel either way I would think. I have seen review of the HPF clutch and everyone seems to be very happy with it who has it here.
    Chrome Space Bar Issue: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...338#post738338


    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

  21. #21
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    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    Well, after talking to ACT and Spec and CM and reading reviews on the HPF, I decided to go with Spec Stage 3+ with lightweight flywheel. When I spoke to ACT they told me that the tq ratings given for thier (and all) clutches was at the flywheel. He said he wouldn't recommend the street disk to anyone with over 375tq to the wheels. My next choice was the ACT 6 puck. He advised me that puck clutches weren't meant for the street and that the life span of the clutch would never meet what a full face disk could do. That then led me to either CM or Spec. i have read many complaints on the forums about the CM clutches so I went straight to spec. I know that shiv is still running a spec clutch on the single turbo car so that helped make my decision easier also. It came down to the stage 2+ with LW flywheel, stage 3+ without flywheel and the stage 3+ with LW flywheel. I really didn't want any chatter so I really wanted to keep the OEM flywheel. After seeing the weight difference and reading former boosted IS review on his LW flywheel I decided to just go with the Stage 3+ with LW flywheel. This should cover me when I put RBs on the car next year. Hopefully this is the last clutch I ever buy for this car! I got a pretty good package deal on the clutch and FW from Jeff at TGS.

    Full review to come once installed later this fall.
    That would have my been my choice as well if I could have afforded it. Once I go through this one, that's what I'll be switching to
    Click here to enlarge
    '07 E90 MT Sports Package l FBO l RB Turbos l JB4 G5 with MHD E85 BEF l N20 MAP Sensor l MMP Inlets l Custom Exhaust l BMS Short Shifter l NLS & 2-Step l MFactory 3.46 LSD l 335is Clutch with MFactory SMFW l Walbro 450

    Best 1/4 ET: 11.4
    Best 1.4 Trap: 127.7

    '08 E60 MT Fully Loaded l JB4 G5 with BB Pump BEF l BMS DCI l 335is Clutch

  22. #22
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    Chatter will be annoying as hell man. Hopefully it won't bother u but if you dont like wg rattle then this will drive you nuts too. I had one too but from CM.

    What's the material on the stg3+ spec?
    Click here to enlarge

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    Types of Driving:

    Street, Drag, Pulling, Autocross

    The flagship stage for a high powered street or race car that requires a manageable and friendly engagement, the stage 3+ features a carbon semi-metallic full faced material that offers unparalleled life, friction co-efficient and drivability characteristics in one single package. The hub is double sprung with spring cover relieves for flexibility and heat treated components for strength and durability. Great for street, drag, drift, autocross, road racing, pulling, rallye and drift.

    • High clamp pressure plate
    • Carbon semi-metallic friction material
    • High torque sprung hub and disc assembly
    • Bearing and tool kit
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  24. #24
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    I almost went with the Spec stage 3 + and kept the OEM flywheel. I read former boosted IS's review on his CM LW flywheel though and talked to Spec and my install shop on the phone. They swayed me toward the LW flywheel. Oh well, with all the drone from my new custom exhaust I probably won't hear the chatter. LOL!
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

  25. #25
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
    I almost went with the Spec stage 3 + and kept the OEM flywheel. I read former boosted IS's review on his CM LW flywheel though and talked to Spec and my install shop on the phone. They swayed me toward the LW flywheel. Oh well, with all the drone from my new custom exhaust I probably won't hear the chatter. LOL!
    Is the chatter an issue?
    Chrome Space Bar Issue: http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...338#post738338


    Stage 2 or 2.5 E9X M3 S65 V8 supercharger kit for sale
    : http://www.boostaddict.com/showthrea...r-kit-for-sale

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