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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    I have the same issue as yourself after around 2500km with a ClutchMasters FX300. Shudder at engagement with low load in first and reverse. Slightly annoying when you're manoeuvering your car in order to park it, but otherwise while driving I can more or less ignore it.

    I had a new OEM flywheel, and I don't think that at 75.000km anything was worn out yet. All indicated parts were replaced too.

    Maybe just the price for driving a heavy duty clutch, what do I know.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    I hate it that shudder, as you said it's really annoying when you're coming out of a parking spot slowly for example, basically slow maneuvers . I'm glad it's minimal now after >600 miles. Hope mileage takes it away for you as well. Did you launch the car hard yet?
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

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  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    I hate it that shudder, as you said it's really annoying when you're coming out of a parking spot slowly for example, basically slow maneuvers . I'm glad it's minimal now after >600 miles. Hope mileage takes it away for you as well. Did you launch the car hard yet?
    No, not at all. I don't really intend to either, as I'm more interested in driving on a race circuit as the Nürburgring than in 1/4 mile races. It seems to grab quite well though, even with the upgraded turbos.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
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  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    No, not at all. I don't really intend to either, as I'm more interested in driving on a race circuit as the Nürburgring than in 1/4 mile races. It seems to grab quite well though, even with the upgraded turbos.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    Ahh, I wish I had access to a circuit such as the Nurburgring Click here to enlarge
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  4. #54
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    No, not at all. I don't really intend to either, as I'm more interested in driving on a race circuit as the Nürburgring than in 1/4 mile races. It seems to grab quite well though, even with the upgraded turbos.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    I was at the Nürburgring on Monday and did 8 laps, which equals to around 120 miles. On the last lap, the ClutchMasters FX300 started to slip rather badly, even in third gear. On the way back home it continuously slipped in high load situations, i.e. every time I did WOT in 6th gear.

    Not good!

    I then did another 300km yesterday and now it seems to hold up again, which is rather strange as I was under the assumption that once a kevlar disc starts to slip, it will not recover.

    Anyway, the heavy juddering and inability to hold the torque even outside of 1/4 mile racing is obviously unacceptable. I will throw it out and put another clutch in it, possibly the ACT as frankly I don't really want to spend the extra cash for the HPF which may be even better.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    Current: Audi R8 V10 2013 S-Tronic, daytona grey, carbon side blades, MTM tune, Michelin PSS tires, Capristo x-pipe
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  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    I was at the Nürburgring on Monday and did 8 laps, which equals to around 120 miles. On the last lap, the ClutchMasters FX300 started to slip rather badly, even in third gear. On the way back home it continuously slipped in high load situations, i.e. every time I did WOT in 6th gear.

    Not good!



    I then did another 300km yesterday and now it seems to hold up again, which is rather strange as I was under the assumption that once a kevlar disc starts to slip, it will not recover.

    Anyway, the heavy juddering and inability to hold the torque even outside of 1/4 mile racing is obviously unacceptable. I will throw it out and put another clutch in it, possibly the ACT as frankly I don't really want to spend the extra cash for the HPF which may be even better.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    Ihadmywaysomething like

    perhapsyou would liketo know something aboutthis clutchkit

    http://www.sachsperformance.com/Sach...9_627_659.html
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  6. #56
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by carcars Click here to enlarge
    I had my way something like

    perhaps you would like to know something about this clutchkit

    http://www.sachsperformance.com/Sach...9_627_659.html
    I tried this out as a friend of mine has it, but the clutch pedal feel is much, much stiffer than stock and this clutch is only rated for 540 Nm torque. My stock clutch had no problem with up to 700 Nm, and the Sachs clutch is double the price of the ACT.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    Current: Audi R8 V10 2013 S-Tronic, daytona grey, carbon side blades, MTM tune, Michelin PSS tires, Capristo x-pipe
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  7. #57
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    I was at the Nürburgring on Monday and did 8 laps, which equals to around 120 miles. On the last lap, the ClutchMasters FX300 started to slip rather badly, even in third gear. On the way back home it continuously slipped in high load situations, i.e. every time I did WOT in 6th gear.

    Not good!

    I then did another 300km yesterday and now it seems to hold up again, which is rather strange as I was under the assumption that once a kevlar disc starts to slip, it will not recover.

    Anyway, the heavy juddering and inability to hold the torque even outside of 1/4 mile racing is obviously unacceptable. I will throw it out and put another clutch in it, possibly the ACT as frankly I don't really want to spend the extra cash for the HPF which may be even better.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    Crappy CM clutches, hate to say I told you so...depending on what torque you're putting down to be honest i say go with the HPF feramic and never worry about it going prematurely again...yes its pricey but so is anyother clutch when you factor in the labor and possibly a new flywheel again...ACT should work very well too but if you're planning on more than 450wtq consistently it may start to slip
    Click here to enlarge

  8. #58
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Crappy CM clutches, hate to say I told you so...
    Yeah, but that was much too late! I bought my clutch in 2010 through a group buy, and only installed it now because I put on the upgraded turbos later than initially intended. Had I bought a new clutch this year I would have gone with HPF probably.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    depending on what torque you're putting down to be honest i say go with the HPF feramic and never worry about it going prematurely again...yes its pricey but so is anyother clutch when you factor in the labor and possibly a new flywheel again...ACT should work very well too but if you're planning on more than 450wtq consistently it may start to slip
    HPF is definitely my preference, but I think I don't have the financial means right now to drop another 1k into a new clutch, with all that has already gone wrong in the past few months. That car is a big black hole to me, financially speaking.

    From what I've read, you had the ACT for quite a while with the RBs, didn't you? I don't use my car for drag racing anyway, so I think the ACT might be enough for me in a first step.

    All this is just annoying as hell, because each time I fix one thing, the next malfunction crops up. At least the 6th time in two months...Click here to enlarge

    Alpina_B3_Lux
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  9. #59
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    Sorry to hear about your misfortune Marcel Click here to enlarge Hopefully you'll get it fixed for good now.
    E92 335i SB / Black Leather / 6AT / Navi Prof / Sunroof / Active Steering
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  10. #60
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    HPF is definitely my preference, but I think I don't have the financial means right now to drop another 1k into a new clutch, with all that has already gone wrong in the past few months. That car is a big black hole to me, financially speaking.
    I can understand your financial constraints, but I hope that doesn't force you into a compromise that you may regret later. The ACT Street, underrated as it may be, is simply not up to handling your power levels. If you were willing to deal with the additional chatter of the race version then it might serve you well. On the other hand, the install is one of the most expensive parts of the clutch swap so if you have the time or the friends to get the labor done cheaply, then it might be a different story, but otherwise I would just swallow the added parts cost and get the HPF that was engineered for your torque levels. At least then, it's one less thing to worry about.

    I have some regrets over getting the ACT Street and had I realized the labor costs at the time ($800 for the install including the bearings) I would have likely just gone with the 6-puck, the HPF or maybe even a twin-disc clutch. Only time will tell if my concerns are justified as I will soon be running FBO with the Cobb Stage 2+ and possibly meth or upgraded turbos.
    08 E92 335xi 6MT: Cobb/PTF Stage 3, RB Turbos, Aquamist HSF-4 @ 90/10, CM FX850, Quaife LSD, Suspension by Koni/TCK/Swift, CP-E Catless DPs, ETS 7" FMIC, BMS OCC, Stett CAI & CP/Forge DVs, UUC Evo3, OZ Alleggeritas/w PSS, H&R 20mm ASB, M3 SF bushings, Megan Racing control arms. Going on soon: WOTbox. Stett Oil Cooler

  11. #61
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    My ACT held very well until i started pushing midrange torque past 450-460 regular basis as well as some NLS action and 1/4 mile fun. You may be just fine with it if you never NLS or drag though. It did surprise me though how well it put up with my driving i was very happy with it...you know your situation best though
    Click here to enlarge

  12. #62
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    I tried this out as a friend of mine has it, but the clutch pedal feel is much, much stiffer than stock and this clutch is only rated for 540 Nm torque. My stock clutch had no problem with up to 700 Nm, and the Sachs clutch is double the price of the ACT.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    hello friend

    I speak for the clutch and they said it's good to 700nm​​, it appears that there are some German guys use it and has a good framerate

    if you look at the paguina set from 54 + but you can ask as I do, I geta day 7 for a client of mine and I do know how sebe

    Here in Spain the tax and customs every day are more expensive and not worth buying anything out, and you have it in your country.

    regards
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  13. #63
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cyniclaus Click here to enlarge
    I can understand your financial constraints, but I hope that doesn't force you into a compromise that you may regret later. The ACT Street, underrated as it may be, is simply not up to handling your power levels. If you were willing to deal with the additional chatter of the race version then it might serve you well. On the other hand, the install is one of the most expensive parts of the clutch swap so if you have the time or the friends to get the labor done cheaply, then it might be a different story, but otherwise I would just swallow the added parts cost and get the HPF that was engineered for your torque levels. At least then, it's one less thing to worry about.

    I have some regrets over getting the ACT Street and had I realized the labor costs at the time ($800 for the install including the bearings) I would have likely just gone with the 6-puck, the HPF or maybe even a twin-disc clutch. Only time will tell if my concerns are justified as I will soon be running FBO with the Cobb Stage 2+ and possibly meth or upgraded turbos.
    Thanks for your thoughts on this, and I certainly agree that the HPF would be the better solution. I just have to see whether this is going to be possible financially speaking.

    Do you have the part numbers for the bearings? I believe that the pilot bearing has the part no. 21207536792, do I need anything else?

    Alpina_B3_Lux
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  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for your thoughts on this, and I certainly agree that the HPF would be the better solution. I just have to see whether this is going to be possible financially speaking.

    Do you have the part numbers for the bearings? I believe that the pilot bearing has the part no. 21207536792, do I need anything else?

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    I guess you also need throwout bearing, aluminum bolts. Unless you are going to reuse the old ones
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

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  15. #65
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    Probably a good idea to change out the release fork too while youre in there. Not sure if ACT/HPF include new ones.

  16. #66
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    pilot bearing, throwout bearing, tranny bolts, clutch fork...while you're at it i'd also change the rear main seal to save the headache down the road
    Click here to enlarge

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    how about the retainer clip (opposite side of the slave pin on the fork)... it's plastic I believe on the n54 and most are metal. I need to compile a list also for when I do this. I've been delaying it, but clutch is holding fairly well. I'm afraid though the additional slip is wearing the FW, which is just going to increase my cost having to replace it.

    Again I hope someone couples a LWFW to the ACT street and reports the experience. Spec is the only one I can think of that sells it separately.

  18. #68
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    pilot bearing, throwout bearing, tranny bolts, clutch fork...while you're at it i'd also change the rear main seal to save the headache down the road
    Alright, let's make a list:

    - pilot bearing: 21207536792
    - release module: 21517564027
    - aluminium screws: 23000417164

    Can you supply the other part no.?

    Alpina_B3_Lux
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  19. #69
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    that is the sachs clutch performance Click here to enlarge

    I must say that is enough to 72nm
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  20. #70
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    I read on another forum the ACT clutch doesn't feel stock at all as far as the clutch pedal. I read the clutch pedal is dead or extremely light for the first 50% of travel, and then progressively harder and doesn't engage the clutch unless all the way slammed to the floor. That would drive me nuts. Is this true? There were a couple people commenting on it saying its perfectly normal for the ACT clutch.....
    Click here to enlarge
    ESS 6XX kit

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    I read on another forum the ACT clutch doesn't feel stock at all as far as the clutch pedal. I read the clutch pedal is dead or extremely light for the first 50% of travel, and then progressively harder and doesn't engage the clutch unless all the way slammed to the floor. That would drive me nuts. Is this true? There were a couple people commenting on it saying its perfectly normal for the ACT clutch.....
    Yes, I was one of those people.

    The pedal requires a lot more effort than stock, felt to me even more than a "50% increase", but then the stock pedal is incredibly light. So it's not that the effort with the ACT is excessive or fatiguing, it's just the contrast that takes you by surprise.

    Regarding the "dead pedal" comment: it's not at all that the pedal gets heavier all of a sudden, in fact the actual effort remains pretty constant. What we were referring to (or at least I was, maybe he had a different issue) is that the first 1/3-to-1/2 of the pedal travel seems like it is doing nothing. All the "action" happens very close to the bottom of the travel. In other words, it's as if the whole mechanism were shifted closer to the floor. For me, the low and short engagement would be a lot more enjoyable and desirable if you could just eliminate the last 50% of the return because such a low engagement point feels awkward when the pedal travel is so long. However, all that being said, I've gotten used to it by now.

    When people say the ACT is "like stock" they mean the ease of engagement and that it can be slipped rather than being "on/off" like some of the pucked clutches are. The effort and engagement point are substantially different, but you get used to them and shouldn't dissuade you from considering the clutch.
    08 E92 335xi 6MT: Cobb/PTF Stage 3, RB Turbos, Aquamist HSF-4 @ 90/10, CM FX850, Quaife LSD, Suspension by Koni/TCK/Swift, CP-E Catless DPs, ETS 7" FMIC, BMS OCC, Stett CAI & CP/Forge DVs, UUC Evo3, OZ Alleggeritas/w PSS, H&R 20mm ASB, M3 SF bushings, Megan Racing control arms. Going on soon: WOTbox. Stett Oil Cooler

  22. #72
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    Well I press the pedal in all the way every time I shift so maybe it's not a big deal? I need a new clutch, I'm really wondering what one to go with..
    Click here to enlarge
    ESS 6XX kit

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Alpina_B3_Lux Click here to enlarge
    Alright, let's make a list:

    - pilot bearing: 21207536792
    - release module: 21517564027
    - aluminium screws: 23000417164

    Can you supply the other part no.?

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    So, I just got a quote from my dealer with a complete part list. Here we go:

    1) Items needed for a replacement clutch (non-BMW):

    • Federbügel: 21517570284
    • Kugelbolzen: 21511223328
    • Set of aluminium screws Manual Transmission: 23000417164
    • Exhaust gaskets: 18307553603 (x2)
    • Nuts (Sechskantmutter): 18307620549 (x4)
    • Sechskantschraube: 26117527475 (x4)
    • Sechskantmutter selbstsichernd: 26127536563 (x3)
    • Sechskantmutter selbstsichernd: 07129906196 (x2)
    • Reparatursatz Einlegemutter: 26117567770

    NB: The release module (part no. 21517564027) is usually included in any aftermarkets clutch package. If not, it would have to be ordered in addition to the above.

    2) Items needed if you also replace the flywheel:

    • Pilot bearing / Cylindrical roller bearing: 21207536792
    • Dowel / Passhülse: 11227557611
    • Screws: 11227520706 (x8)


    3) OEM clutch + flywheel


    • Dual mass flywheel (part no. may vary depending on manufacture date!): 21207542984


    • Clutch kit (disc plus pressure plate plus release module): 21207567623


    I hope everything is correct and that this may be of help.

    Alpina_B3_Lux
    Current: Audi R8 V10 2013 S-Tronic, daytona grey, carbon side blades, MTM tune, Michelin PSS tires, Capristo x-pipe
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