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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    No I haven't upgraded yet, the clutch is holding but it's on it's way out. It isnt as sharp as it should be. I'm hoping to replace it this fall or winter and get through the summer with this clutch. We'll see...
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    I actually drove on S2+ for a while before the clutch started slipping. My clutch was already in bad shape and I was over 70k. Take it easy during shifts and your clutch will hold for a while. It was only when I started shifting the hell out of it that it started slipping. Eventually, It was slipping even when it's already in gear and I floor it

    Thanks for the responses, makes me feel a bit better.

  2. #27
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    I am also debating my new clutch. If I'm not mistaken though the ACT Street is only rated for 400ft lb of torque. I'm at 455ft lb with more mods planned next year. What do you guys think? Go with it anyways, since people on here have the street disk and are over 400ft lb? Go with the 6 puck? I really don't want to drop $1K on an HPF. The would seriously cut into my RB money. What do you guys think for 455ft lb current and a plan for RBs next spring?
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  3. #28
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    If you're sure on upgraded turbos go hpf..otherwise act street full face is underrated at 456ftlbs
    Click here to enlarge

  4. #29
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    As Dzenno mentioned, go HPF if upgraded turbos are in your horizon. I went with ACT since I wasn't sure went I was going to upgrade my turbos. How soon I regret going with ACT depends on how soon I upgrade Click here to enlarge
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  5. #30
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    I have an ACT setup in a customers RB car and no issues yet. Best time of 11.7 at the strip. Handles quite a lot of abuse, but it's driven properly (no excessive slipping between gears and no excessive slipping in 1st).

    No need to do HPF. I would do an ACT 6 puck with a single mass flywheel. Will have more noise but will hold up to almost anything you can throw at it.

  6. #31
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    What single mass do you recommend? Spec has one, but i don't think anyone has coupled it to anything but a spec disc/plate. Should be the same dimensions as stock. Someone do this.

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@AUTOCouture Click here to enlarge
    I have an ACT setup in a customers RB car and no issues yet. Best time of 11.7 at the strip. Handles quite a lot of abuse, but it's driven properly (no excessive slipping between gears and no excessive slipping in 1st).

    No need to do HPF. I would do an ACT 6 puck with a single mass flywheel. Will have more noise but will hold up to almost anything you can throw at it.
    Matt,

    How is the drivability with this clutch? My car is fbo Cobb stg2 but wont see the track, what would you recommend?
    Click here to enlarge
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  8. #33
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    I have well over 1000 miles on my ACT; still have tactile chatter/"shudder" on engagement of 1st or reverse. While it has gotten better than before break-in, it is still there. I still have my suspicion that the DMF may have had some wear, but the installer is sticking by their story that they inspected it and it was fine and it's not bad enough to where I am going to try and force them to open it all up again. I just wish I had the DMF resurfaced so I could rule that out since some people (like the OP) have had the issue even with a brand new DMF.

    Guess I'll see how it plays out. Going FBO within the next 2-3 weeks and will give strong consideration to meth and RBs after that. I almost went with the feramic clutch but was scared off by reports of flywheel fusion, the risk of which is exacerbated by the increased drivetrain shock inherent in the xi. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise since knowing I have a weaker clutch has made me much less likely to aggressively launch the car than if I had a bulletproof one. I've sheared front half shafts launching other big boost AWD cars and that was not a fun or cheap experience.

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JoshBoody Click here to enlarge
    What single mass do you recommend? Spec has one, but i don't think anyone has coupled it to anything but a spec disc/plate. Should be the same dimensions as stock. Someone do this.
    +1 what flywheel do you recommend? I was hoping to do 6 puck + resurfaced OEM.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cyniclaus Click here to enlarge
    I have well over 1000 miles on my ACT; still have tactile chatter/"shudder" on engagement of 1st or reverse. While it has gotten better than before break-in, it is still there. I still have my suspicion that the DMF may have had some wear, but the installer is sticking by their story that they inspected it and it was fine and it's not bad enough to where I am going to try and force them to open it all up again. I just wish I had the DMF resurfaced so I could rule that out since some people (like the OP) have had the issue even with a brand new DMF..

    Guess I'll see how it plays out. Going FBO within the next 2-3 weeks and will give strong consideration to meth and RBs after that. I almost went with the feramic clutch but was scared off by reports of
    flywheel fusion, the risk of which is exacerbated by the increased drivetrain shock inherent in the xi. Maybe it's a blessing in disguise since knowing I have
    a weaker clutch has made me much less likely to aggressively launch the car
    than if I had a bulletproof one. I've sheared front half shafts launching other
    big boost AWD cars and that was not a fun or cheap experience.
    I was told by two different shops that the BMW flywheel cannot be resurfaced. You need to buy a new one
    Click here to enlarge
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  11. #36
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    I think there a bunch of people on here that have resurfaced the OEM flywheel. I could be wrong though.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, FBO, MT ET Streets when needed


  12. #37
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    its not easy to resurface it but its very doable...i had it done on mine worked like a charm and cost a 100 bucks Click here to enlarge this is when i had the ACT put in
    Click here to enlarge

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    I was told by two different shops that the BMW flywheel cannot be resurfaced. You need to buy a new one
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    its not easy to resurface it but its very doable...i had it done on mine worked like a charm and cost a 100 bucks Click here to enlarge this is when i had the ACT put in
    +1, HPF work with a machine shop that resurfaces flywheels (DMF included), it's somewhere on the other forum.
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

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  14. #39
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    You need to find a local shop for resurfacing to make sense, and most will not. The default answer is always no from all the shops I have called. The main issue is mounting it correctly due to the 2 moving parts... I think. Obviously having everything apart its good piece of mind even if the surface looks good. Right now ACT street is my choice of clutch, but I'm hesitant to reuse my flywheel w/o resurfacing and don't want to pay $800 for a new one. And there's limited, or NO proven aftermarket flywheels to couple with it. Just confirming our dimensional options would be a good first step... chatter i'm not so worried about as long as it's not severe. I'm actually getting some noise from the stock setup now when in neutral.

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by JoshBoody Click here to enlarge
    You need to find a local shop for resurfacing to make sense, and most will not. The default answer is always no from all the shops I have called. The main issue is mounting it correctly due to the 2 moving parts... I think. Obviously having everything apart its good piece of mind even if the surface looks good. Right now ACT street is my choice of clutch, but I'm hesitant to reuse my flywheel w/o resurfacing and don't want to pay $800 for a new one. And there's limited, or NO proven aftermarket flywheels to couple with it. Just confirming our dimensional options would be a good first step... chatter i'm not so worried about as long as it's not severe. I'm actually getting some noise from the stock setup now when in neutral.
    and that's exactly why I had to pay the premium (930$) to get a new flywheel. No shop around here would do it. I took my old flywheel back and will resurface it for the next time I have to change the clutch...
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  16. #41
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    I bought my LUK flywheel from here:

    http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/clutch-parts-final.php?make=BMW&model=3%20Series&sub=335&eng=3& year=2008

    I was told that it is the same as the OEM one from BMW. You guys don't pay VAT but it shipping might be expensive. At $550 + shipping though it might be an option.

    Do you guys have LUK distributors?

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by idnan Click here to enlarge
    I bought my LUK flywheel from here:

    http://www.buypartsby.co.uk/clutch-parts-final.php?make=BMW&model=3%20Series&sub=335&eng=3& year=2008

    I was told that it is the same as the OEM one from BMW. You guys don't pay VAT but it shipping might be expensive. At $550 + shipping though it might be an option.

    Do you guys have LUK distributors?
    I couldn't fine one
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  18. #43
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    Off topic a bit, but I think we should hunt down the manufacturer of the intake pipes as well Click here to enlarge Get them to make some better ones for the masses!

    Intake manifold for instance has a Mahle stamp on it so that one is obvious
    Click here to enlarge

  19. #44
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    I couldn't fine one
    Maybe try these guys:

    http://www.lukclutch.com/content.sch...&location_id=&

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by marv85 Click here to enlarge
    I actually drove on S2+ for a while before the clutch started slipping. My clutch was already in bad shape and I was over 70k. Take it easy during shifts and your clutch will hold for a while. It was only when I started shifting the hell out of it that it started slipping. Eventually, It was slipping even when it's already in gear and I floor it
    Question had you done the CDV delete at this point, or was the delay valve causing extra slip and killed the clutch?
    Click here to enlarge
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  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by xbox_fan Click here to enlarge
    Question had you done the CDV delete at this point, or was the delay valve causing extra slip and killed the clutch?
    I actually had not done the CDV delete so yes it definitely played a role in killing the clutch especially with those crazy 2->3 shifts. I used to get a lot of slip.
    I had it done when I changed the clutch. Now I regret not having it done earlier Click here to enlarge
    SOLD --'07 E90 335i, PTF COBB E50, HFS4, ER CP, ETS 7", AA DP, Vishnu Exhaust, DCI, ACT, Nitto Nt555

    '10 E92 335i M, 6MT COBB v3, ER IC, ER CP, VRSF DP, Fuel-it st2
    installing soon: Mfactory LSD, , powerflex subrframe bushings

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    Matt,

    How is the drivability with this clutch? My car is fbo Cobb stg2 but wont see the track, what would you recommend?
    perfectly normal aside from a slightly heavier pedal.

  23. #48
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@AUTOCouture Click here to enlarge
    perfectly normal aside from a slightly heavier pedal.

    Nice, maybe I'll have you guys install it when I order my wheels from Sal
    Click here to enlarge
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  24. #49
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    also, any aluminum or steel one piece flywheel will work woth the ACT setup. There is no non-compatibility of any flywheel and any clutch assembly. It will just make more gearbox noise and require more slipping in first gear compared to a OEM flywheel.


    Id do a twin disc OS Giken, but thats just me...I like baller clutches with stock pedal effort lol

  25. #50
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cyniclaus Click here to enlarge
    I have well over 1000 miles on my ACT; still have tactile chatter/"shudder" on engagement of 1st or reverse. While it has gotten better than before break-in, it is still there. I still have my suspicion that the DMF may have had some wear, but the installer is sticking by their story that they inspected it and it was fine and it's not bad enough to where I am going to try and force them to open it all up again. I just wish I had the DMF resurfaced so I could rule that out since some people (like the OP) have had the issue even with a brand new DMF.
    I have the same issue as yourself after around 2500km with a ClutchMasters FX300. Shudder at engagement with low load in first and reverse. Slightly annoying when you're manoeuvering your car in order to park it, but otherwise while driving I can more or less ignore it.

    I had a new OEM flywheel, and I don't think that at 75.000km anything was worn out yet. All indicated parts were replaced too.

    Maybe just the price for driving a heavy duty clutch, what do I know.

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