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  1. #1
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    NGK 5992 Spark plugs - 25,000km - first change

    Been running them for the last 25,000km through hell and back more than a few times. Nothing wrong with OEM Bosch plugs but these have performed strong and set some records without any issues.

    I had them gapped too far judging by the color of them. OEM Bosch plugs are 0.7mm gap. NGKs come with 0.8mm gap out of box. I had them down to 0.6mm as I was trying to play with gap back when i had that high rpm misfire saga for those that recall. The fresh new set I just put in I've gapped to the stock gap of 0.7mm, car runs puurfect.

    I like these plugs a lot for the following reasons:

    1) Single ground prong vs. 3-prong OEM (makes the NGKs easily gappable when/if required)
    2) 1 heat range COLDER than Bosch - standard recommendation is to go 1 heat range colder for every 100hp past stock. I'm at ~300hp above stock at the motor so can't hurt.
    3) Iridium center tip
    4) They haven't let me down with literally TONS of very very hard driving on 20+psi boost on RBs, pump+meth. Literally hundreds of 3-4 gear pulls, many drag strip runs and 60-130s.
    5) They've helped set some records too Click here to enlarge

    Here they are in all their glory. Note they're brownish indicating richer running combustion chamber and possibly that the gap should be widened a bit (fresh new set is now at 0.7mm instead of 0.6mm):

    Click here to enlarge

    Here's a comparison against stock plugs that I had before these. 90% of the mileage was with the Procede on these and about the same total mileage as the NGKs (eeewww lol):
    Click here to enlarge

    Here's them side by side (NGK (cobb and some jb4) left, Bosch (mostly procede) right):
    Click here to enlarge

    One more NGK vs Bosch:
    Click here to enlarge

    And another NGK vs Bosch:
    Click here to enlarge

    Thoughts?

    @enrita, how have these been treating you now? Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #2
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    Thanks for sharing this!

  3. #3
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    great! i just put them on and so far so good. no issues . will change them at 20K km .
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  4. #4
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    Those NGK plugs look fine. Nice tan color on all six cylinders.

  5. #5
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    So recommended to use these plugs instead of the OEM? I am due for a change soon.

  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by RaihaX Click here to enlarge
    So recommended to use these plugs instead of the OEM? I am due for a change soon.
    Given how well they're running and given they're 1 step colder (once properly gapped down to 0.7mm from 0.8mm) I don't see why not.

    Not that there's anything wrong with sticking with OEM that I know of so far..
    Click here to enlarge

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    Here's something interesting I found on plugs and why the NGKs would be better than the Bosch (take a look at the insulator portion right under the electrode, the Bosch is longer and fatter meaning more heat to the combustion chamber vs. NGK). Take a look at the side by side pic above, you can see just how much longer and fatter the exposed insulator portion is to the combustion chamber vs. the NGK:

    ======
    A spark plug's heat range has no relationship on the actual voltage transferred through the spark plug. Rather, the heat range is a measure of the spark plug's ability to remove heat from the combustion chamber. The heat range measurement is determined by several factors:
    • The length of the ceramic center insulator nose
    • The insulator nose's ability to absorb and transfer combustion heat
    • The material composition of the insulator
    • The material composition of the center electrode

    A long insulator nose means a larger surface area is exposed to combustion gases and heat is dissipated slowly. This also means the firing end heats up more quickly. We are talking about exposed ceramic length, not extended tip length.

    The insulator nose length is the distance from the firing tip of the insulator to the point where the insulator meets the metal shell. Since the insulator tip is the hottest part of the spark plug, the tip temperature is a primary factor in pre-ignition and fouling.

    =====
    Click here to enlarge

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  9. #9
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    Interesting might give it ago when the time comes.

  10. #10
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    Interesting indeed. My only comment is that in a single prong spark plugs, the spark occurs vertically (up <--> down) and in a three prong spark plugs, the spark occurs horizontally (side <--> side).

    I am not sure exactly how this affects the combustion events, but I do believe that the combustion chamber in the direct injection motors are designed such that the spark occurs geometrically in the center of the fuel "ball" that is being injected. DI combustion relies on precise location of spark and fuel for max efficiency.

    If I am to make a guess, and again, this is just a guess, even though your car runs fine, you might be loosing a bit of fuel efficiency when your engine enters lean burn mode during light cruising.
    From all the things I've lost,
    I miss my mind the most!
    Click here to enlarge

  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Interesting indeed. My only comment is that in a single prong spark plugs, the spark occurs vertically (up <--> down) and in a three prong spark plugs, the spark occurs horizontally (side <--> side).

    I am not sure exactly how this affects the combustion events, but I do believe that the combustion chamber in the direct injection motors are designed such that the spark occurs geometrically in the center of the fuel "ball" that is being injected. DI combustion relies on precise location of spark and fuel for max efficiency.

    If I am to make a guess, and again, this is just a guess, even though your car runs fine, you might be loosing a bit of fuel efficiency when your engine enters lean burn mode during light cruising.
    That's a very interesting comment Vas, didn't think of that. In addition to this I think I'll have to come down to the 0.6mm gap that I was on originally on the NGKs instead of the 0.7mm that I'm testing now as it seems to be more sensitive to higher meth injection volumes with the larger 0.7mm gap seemingly blowing out spark at times. It could also be related to my fiddling with the Aquamist HFS4 kit injection setup/volumes so at this point no idea. I know the 0.6mm gap worked like a charm and it also works on @enrita 's car where it helped take care of his occasional on-meth misfires that he used to get with the OEM plugs.

    Another guy (Overboost) on e90post has been running with AWD turbos and his shop switched him out to NGKs about a year ago with no issues as well, also gapped down from their original 0.8mm gap.

    I'll be pulling out the plug a bit over the next few weeks/months just to inspect them as tuning goes on to see the color changes.

    In terms of the brownish/tan color on my NGKs, I think its related to a couple times I ran NOS Octane booster MMT based formula in the past while.
    Click here to enlarge

  12. #12
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    Interesting indeed. My only comment is that in a single prong spark plugs, the spark occurs vertically (up <--> down) and in a three prong spark plugs, the spark occurs horizontally (side <--> side).

    I am not sure exactly how this affects the combustion events, but I do believe that the combustion chamber in the direct injection motors are designed such that the spark occurs geometrically in the center of the fuel "ball" that is being injected. DI combustion relies on precise location of spark and fuel for max efficiency.

    If I am to make a guess, and again, this is just a guess, even though your car runs fine, you might be loosing a bit of fuel efficiency when your engine enters lean burn mode during light cruising.
    This plugs are OEM fitment for the Mini Cooper S which is also DI.
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  13. #13
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    ^ good point
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    This plugs are OEM fitment for the Mini Cooper S which is also DI.

    True, but what matters is where the fuel injector is located in relationship with the plug. If the two heads have identical combustion chamber designs, then I see no problem at all.
    From all the things I've lost,
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    Click here to enlarge

  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by vasillalov Click here to enlarge
    True, but what matters is where the fuel injector is located in relationship with the plug. If the two heads have identical combustion chamber designs, then I see no problem at all.
    The more I think about it and research it I really don't know that the "direction" the spark fires really matters much. It would make the engine so terribly misfire prone with ground electrode wear you'd end up replacing plugs so fast I think...in addition to that I couldn't find ANY discussion or documentation on specific positioning of the ground strap as it relates to the electrode and fuel injectors. Proximity and angle of the "injector" spray and its pattern are important but the actual spark itself and its "direction" seem to really not matter AS LONG AS the spark is there, of certain energy value and makes it across the gap.
    Click here to enlarge

  16. #16
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    The more I think about it and research it I really don't know that the "direction" the spark fires really matters much. It would make the engine so terribly misfire prone with ground electrode wear you'd end up replacing plugs so fast I think...in addition to that I couldn't find ANY discussion or documentation on specific positioning of the ground strap as it relates to the electrode and fuel injectors. Proximity and angle of the "injector" spray and its pattern are important but the actual spark itself and its "direction" seem to really not matter AS LONG AS the spark is there, of certain energy value and makes it across the gap.
    \

    search plug indexing as it pertains to the huge HP nitro drag race cars. they follow this religiously. There is a method to the madness.

    T

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    Sorry to necro this... I have been getting a grainy noise and light vibration in the 2500-3500rpm range high load high boost (18psi) in gears 4-6th at WOT. No codes, no misfires, it just doesn't sound good at all. I think the spark is blowing out or something on the stock Bosch plugs. I read on the NGK site that the gap should be reduced 0.004" (0.1mm) for every 50hp you add. This sounds like too much since I would need to gap down 200hp (0.4mm). That being said I think this is probably the issue I am having.

    Dzenno, do you still recommend these plugs? If so, what do you think is a reasonable plug gap for ~500hp on E85 50-50 mix? Here are my current plugs:

    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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  19. #19
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    I beleive the 5992s should be gapped down 0.1mm.

  20. #20
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    Gap them down to the stock gap of 0.7mm. 0.6mm won't hurt either.

    NGK 5992 come with a 0.8mm gap off the shelf
    Click here to enlarge

  21. #21
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    I will first try and gap a spare set of OE plugs I pulled too early to see if that fixes the problem. If it doesn't, or if I can't gap them, then I won't bother buying these right now.

    Still no anti-seize on the threads right?

  22. #22
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    You can gap the OEM plugs.. I was going to do this but ended up getting the NGK 5992 and gapping them to .6mm as I'm used to running the NGK Iridium plugs in all of my other cars..

  23. #23
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    I wouldn't bother gapping OEM plugs. They're 3 prong and really not made to be gapped. If you'll be playing with the gap definitely go with the NGKs
    Click here to enlarge

  24. #24
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    I figure since I don't need new plus AND have another set, I will try my luck on those first. I agree though, next set I buy will be NGK.

  25. #25
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    The wire end gap doesn't work the best with the 3 prong.
    I would use the small/thin feeler end to gap the 3 prong plugs.
    Let us know how you make out!
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