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  1. #1
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    Windshield (Rubber) Seal

    Hey all, member e92 recommended I make a thread instead of replying to him in his thread so that's what I'm doing. Here's the deal: over time if you do not own a garage or car port, your e9x rubber windshield seal will begin to crack, fade and eventually, pieces will flake off from wind and debris. e92 has a great photo of his in horrible shape iirc. Anyway, you may think this is a dealer only fix, as it is the windshield we're talking about here, the front seal to the cabin! Well in fact BMW was smart in this case and made the seal replaceable (even though I guess they don't tell the dealer it is). Once you remove all of the old rubber seal you will see that the windshield is still stuck on by the original liquid hardened seal BMW put on the car. All you need to replace the rubber outer seal is some interior tools like those from EAS (where i got mine). http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...astic-tool-kit And here is a link to the rubber seal: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...veal%20molding . Something to mention when you replace it is that the top left and right (toward the roof and edge of the car) edges of the seal have 'ears.' These ears stick out a few mm's but under wind i suppose hunker down. The seal under them is normal and just as important as everywhere else, but for whatever reason, aerodynamic or otherwise, the seal comes with excess rubber on the top left and right. I will post pics I just made showing these 'ears.' Click here to enlarge Click here to enlarge
    I personally didn't install my seal as I felt I didn't have the skill to not $#@! something up, IE: rip/damage the new seal or damage my car. So I took it to my local body shop who I have given a lot of business over the years over different cars and they did the job for free. So the total cost of this replacement for me was less than $40. When I approached the dealer, long before I did my research, they quoted me $1200 to fix it. They claimed they had to remove the old seal, remove the windshield, replace the windshield with new glue, then re seal it back up, and if the windshield cracked during removal, it was out of my pocket (as I was out of warranty). So all in all it was quite a save, and so far has proven to be water tight and flawless.
    Click here to enlarge
    Last edited by oddjob2021; 03-02-2012 at 03:25 PM.
    Click here to enlarge
    2007 335i Coupe
    Mods: Check the Garage

  2. #2
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    Thanks for the heads up! My 1M is already getting the windshield replaced. $422 Click here to enlarge

  3. #3
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for the heads up! My 1M is already getting the windshield replaced. $422 Click here to enlarge
    rock chips? crack? what's the reason? through the dealer? or an aftermarket company like safe-lite.
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    2007 335i Coupe
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    rock chips? crack? what's the reason? through the dealer? or an aftermarket company like safe-lite.
    Lol no F the dealer pricing! We have a company that gives a good discount because they service our 80 active HVAC/plumbing fleet vehicles. It is Evan's Glass. I believe it is aftermarket, but same quality SHGC and UV factors, and it works with the rain sensor. I want to get some good tint all around, but I have just enough money to order a charge pipe today to finally use my Meth kit.

    But yeah, I feel like a total $#@!ing retard for breaking it. Let's just say, be sure to put your windshield wipers down before you pop the hood.....

  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ Click here to enlarge
    Lol no F the dealer pricing! We have a company that gives a good discount because they service our 80 active HVAC/plumbing fleet vehicles. It is Evan's Glass. I believe it is aftermarket, but same quality SHGC and UV factors, and it works with the rain sensor. I want to get some good tint all around, but I have just enough money to order a charge pipe today to finally use my Meth kit.

    But yeah, I feel like a total $#@!ing retard for breaking it. Let's just say, be sure to put your windshield wipers down before you pop the hood.....
    ouch man sorry to hear. I'll be sure to remember that one! and i was just clarifying about the stealer to make sure i wasn't getting price gouged. but im glad this new glass will work out and it's great it works with the rain/light sensor. you plan on slightly tinting the new windshield? (i have a few friends who put 80% up front) or just the side/rear windows like normal. which charge pipe are you going with? and who's meth kit? are you going to make a thread with results/data?
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    2007 335i Coupe
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  6. #6
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    ouch man sorry to hear. I'll be sure to remember that one! and i was just clarifying about the stealer to make sure i wasn't getting price gouged. but im glad this new glass will work out and it's great it works with the rain/light sensor. you plan on slightly tinting the new windshield? (i have a few friends who put 80% up front) or just the side/rear windows like normal. which charge pipe are you going with? and who's meth kit? are you going to make a thread with results/data?
    Yeah I'll probably go light on the windshield, and as dark as legally possible on the sides and back. It should match well with black wheels, black side markers, kidney grills and the carbon skirts/trunk lip/diffuser/front lip exterior pieces.

    I'm stuck between the Evolution Racewerks and CP-E charge-pipe. It will have two bungs, one for methanol and one for a small shot of nitrous to use at San Antonio Raceway occasionally. I'm gonna go for the Tial Q valve.

    And yes, I'll make a thread with all collected data. We have a Mustang AWD-500 Dynamo meter and I've been meaning to contribute data for like half a year now. I've just been busy with the HVAC business, especially now that we've expanded into the Energy Rating and Solar Energy markets. Not to mention I'm 22, on a tight budget and have a million other things on my mind.

    But some birthday money and income tax return have allowed me to make some extra progress, so expect some new 1M data soon. Click here to enlarge

  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SlicktopTTZ Click here to enlarge
    Yeah I'll probably go light on the windshield, and as dark as legally possible on the sides and back. It should match well with black wheels, black side markers, kidney grills and the carbon skirts/trunk lip/diffuser/front lip exterior pieces.

    I'm stuck between the Evolution Racewerks and CP-E charge-pipe. It will have two bungs, one for methanol and one for a small shot of nitrous to use at San Antonio Raceway occasionally. I'm gonna go for the Tial Q valve.

    And yes, I'll make a thread with all collected data. We have a Mustang AWD-500 Dynamo meter and I've been meaning to contribute data for like half a year now. I've just been busy with the HVAC business, especially now that we've expanded into the Energy Rating and Solar Energy markets. Not to mention I'm 22, on a tight budget and have a million other things on my mind.

    But some birthday money and income tax return have allowed me to make some extra progress, so expect some new 1M data soon. Click here to enlarge
    Nice. Texas's law is 25% for the sides and the rear can be any darkness. with the windshield not being legal but with a light enough tint it's unnoticeable like 80- or 85% and above. and how would a cop test the windshield anyway? You have carbon skirts? that's sick, have you shared photos here?

    I also have a tial bov, the AA bov (and pipe) i had before was too loud imo. do they come with the two bungs, or it's an option?

    Sounds great man, cant wait, and I would guess everyone's got a lot on their plate these days, I'm glad things are going solar. the sun give so much energy per second over the globe it's crazy, it's the efficiency of the panels that's holding it back really right?
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  8. #8
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    Honestly, it's the cost of the panels. And yes the efficiency too, because it changes the total sqft you need to hit a desired kw goal.

    But they keep getting cheaper and more efficient, so eventually it will be the ultimate source of renewable energy. Plus there is VERY little maintenance, and they generally have 20+ years life, which can also improve.

  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    Hey all, member e92 recommended I make a thread instead of replying to him in his thread so that's what I'm doing. Here's the deal: over time if you do not own a garage or car port, your e9x rubber windshield seal will begin to crack, fade and eventually, pieces will flake off from wind and debris. e92 has a great photo of his in horrible shape iirc. Anyway, you may think this is a dealer only fix, as it is the windshield we're talking about here, the front seal to the cabin! Well in fact BMW was smart in this case and made the seal replaceable (even though I guess they don't tell the dealer it is). Once you remove all of the old rubber seal you will see that the windshield is still stuck on by the original liquid hardened seal BMW put on the car. All you need to replace the rubber outer seal is some interior tools like those from EAS (where i got mine). http://www.europeanautosource.com/pr...astic-tool-kit And here is a link to the rubber seal: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...Reveal molding . Something to mention when you replace it is that the top left and right (toward the roof and edge of the car) edges of the seal have 'ears.' These ears stick out a few mm's but under wind i suppose hunker down. The seal under them is normal and just as important as everywhere else, but for whatever reason, aerodynamic or otherwise, the seal comes with excess rubber on the top left and right. I will post pics I just made showing these 'ears.' http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...IMAG0290-1.jpg http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...IMAG0291-1.jpg
    I personally didn't install my seal as I felt I didn't have the skill to not $#@! something up, IE: rip/damage the new seal or damage my car. So I took it to my local body shop who I have given a lot of business over the years over different cars and they did the job for free. So the total cost of this replacement for me was less than $40. When I approached the dealer, long before I did my research, they quoted me $1200 to fix it. They claimed they had to remove the old seal, remove the windshield, replace the windshield with new glue, then re seal it back up, and if the windshield cracked during removal, it was out of my pocket (as I was out of warranty). So all in all it was quite a save, and so far has proven to be water tight and flawless.
    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...IMAG0292-1.jpg
    Good stuff oddjob.

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