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  1. #51
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    Usually ambients here are about 75-85F, some days up to 90F...starting IATs however are always higher by about 10-15F in most cases so add that on top...

    In any case, dont think that changes the fact the intake pipes will hinder performance even more in high heat
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  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    thanks dan for all the technical insight. the only change i would make to any of your posts, however, is your estimate of his IAT. for us, sure, in Miami, 100F IAT is normal, even shot for in summer (without meth), but up in Canada, he was probably seeing IAT of ~40F or less by the time his 'season' was up. This summer maybe different but i don't see his going over 70ish no? i'm not sure how much that'll change your calculation of air speed. anyway, i'm pretty sure the piping itself is not the issue, its the coupler. the pancake pipes in front and in back are engineered to flow the same as the 'normal shape' pipes coming from your intake of choice. now the problem lies in the reduction to the coupler (to the comp. inlet). if this can be remedied in a clean and effective fashion, i think you'd have every n54's number, even ones without upgraded turbos.
    Yea I used 100F as a worst case, Im assuming he has DCI so hes gonna pull some heat from under the hood into the intake. Could be less though, even at 50F the air is moving very fast, faster than you would want any intake plumbing to be at.

    That area you are talking about, the compressor inlet, could totally use a makeover. I really want to see Dz put something together and do some before and after testing.
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

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  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DBFIU Click here to enlarge
    Yea I used 100F as a worst case, Im assuming he has DCI so hes gonna pull some heat from under the hood into the intake. Could be less though, even at 50F the air is moving very fast, faster than you would want any intake plumbing to be at.

    That area you are talking about, the compressor inlet, could totally use a makeover. I really want to see Dz put something together and do some before and after testing.
    At the moment yes, back to DCIs...had to pull out my Mr.5 intake creation as the hose was rubbing against the wheel liner and I'm really not comfortable with the filter down there completely out of sight...i may leave the intakes as they are OR when I'm even more bored I may try what Helix did with their mr.5-like approach

    I wish I could just cut the damn stock intake tubes and put a silicone coupler on to see if there's any gains first...if i cut them, there's no way to join the silicone couplers/elbows to the intake tube securely enough that i can see..
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  4. #54
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    Why dont you go with the DCI and try my pre compressor methanol injection setup that way the underhood temps wont hurt you and the air will have the shortest path to the turbos?
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

    Other people eat shit and die.

    I'm not racist, I hate everybody equally; especially fat people.


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  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DBFIU Click here to enlarge
    Why dont you go with the DCI and try my pre compressor methanol injection setup that way the underhood temps wont hurt you and the air will have the shortest path to the turbos?
    Oh, I "am" running the DCIs at the moment, not sure if I was clear...as for pre-compressor meth injection, the issue I have is I'm running 80/20 meth now...i'm scared to run that down to the hot turbos to be honest...if i had 2 tanks, one water one meth mix I'd definitely do it with individual pump...have an extra one sitting in the garage anyway that'd be great for the pre-compressor injection...
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  6. #56
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    Another wild idea...WHAT IF, I found two 46.5mm ID inlet long cone filters (outside diameter of RB turbo compressor inlets is 46.5mm, ID is 44.5mm) and just attached those directly to the compressor inlet on each turbo? Why bother with this piping...shortest path to the turbo too...what do you guys think? i'd love to try this first actually if we can find 2 cone filters that would fit there...

    What would the dimensions of such filter with that 46.5mm inlet on the filter need to be to support enough flow?
    Last edited by dzenno@PTF; 02-20-2012 at 04:09 PM.
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  7. #57
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Another wild idea...WHAT IF, I found two 46.5mm ID inlet long cone filters (outside diameter of RB turbo compressor inlets is 46.5mm, ID is 44.5mm) and just attached those directly to the compressor inlet on each turbo? Why bother with this piping...shortest path to the turbo too...what do you guys think? i'd love to try this first actually if we can find 2 cone filters that would fit there...

    What would the dimensions of such filter with that 46.5mm inlet on the filter need to be to support enough flow?
    The air in that region is probably around 300-400 degrees because it's on the exhaust side of the engine, I think that would be a bad idea. You need piping to direct cooler air into the turbos, plastic is best because it insulates the air.
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

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  8. #58
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    Rob at Champion showed me this flexible tubing that you can connect and route anywhere.

  9. #59
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Another wild idea...WHAT IF, I found two 46.5mm ID inlet long cone filters (outside diameter of RB turbo compressor inlets is 46.5mm, ID is 44.5mm) and just attached those directly to the compressor inlet on each turbo? Why bother with this piping...shortest path to the turbo too...what do you guys think? i'd love to try this first actually if we can find 2 cone filters that would fit there...

    What would the dimensions of such filter with that 46.5mm inlet on the filter need to be to support enough flow?
    What does Shiv do on his single? I assume he sucks air on the "hot" side of the engine. But isn't there room to route piping under/behind the engine if needed?

    Or like the CAI just route piping to the front and stay under the turbos in real driving I would assume there is plenty of cold air there?
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    997.1 tt
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  10. #60
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    John, the tube needs to be flexible BUT it can't cavitate under vacuum when the turbos are sucking air...what tubing did he have in mind? Can you try it out?

    Xbox_fan, shiv has an intake pipe going up towards top of engine bay so thats not an issue there...
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  11. #61
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    This is a bit off topic, but recently had DCIs on COBB S2, stock turbos, stock FMIC and now i made the MR5 box with K&N drop in and routed one of the DCIs to sit above the fog lights with some modifications, i feel its more responsive, car feels better all round and wants to keep going. Im not sure of any dyno gains in whp, but im 100% sure its stronger.

  12. #62
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    I ran my best 60-130 with the Mr.5 intake on...we'll see how the DCIs play out soon enough
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  13. #63
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    They have this solid flexible tubing. Ask Rob.

  14. #64
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ultimateracing335i Click here to enlarge
    They have this solid flexible tubing. Ask Rob.
    Is it ribbed or perforated like a bellows? If so, that kind of defeats the purpose because ribs cause pretty significant restrictions.
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

    Other people eat shit and die.

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  15. #65
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    I ran my best 60-130 with the Mr.5 intake on...we'll see how the DCIs play out soon enough
    Everytime I go to put my car on the dyno to test the DCI vs stock airbox it rains!

    But the torque hit feels softer with DCI, although it does seem to rush just as hard or harder forward. Plus the sound is awesome. I'll likely leave it to use with meth and just wait till I'm ready to purchase a good single turbo kit.

  16. #66
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    Here is a couple pics of the tubing. It is silicone tubing and is smooth on the inside. They use it on vettes at Champion. The pic shows 3inch but you can get it in any size. Its also very stiff when you try to compress it.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  17. #67
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    Hmmm can we squish it enough on the back of the enginebay and yet not have it collapse under vaccum when turbos are boosting? How sensitive to heat is it? Any temp rating?
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  18. #68
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    No clue call Rob. Im sure the smaller diameter is even stiffer.

  19. #69
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    We should at least get a few pulls out of it on the dyno. LOL

  20. #70
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    That tubing stuff looks awesome, inside is smooth and outside is compliant. Try and use it.
    Some people live long, meaningful lives.

    Other people eat shit and die.

    I'm not racist, I hate everybody equally; especially fat people.


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  21. #71
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ultimateracing335i Click here to enlarge
    We should at least get a few pulls out of it on the dyno. LOL
    Let's do it Saturday and get Kevin to come by Click here to enlarge
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  22. #72
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    What are they doing with the pcv vent on the single, breather?

  23. #73
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    no idea..never thought about it actually..if i had to guess, vent to air
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  24. #74
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    Then the car is gonna stink like my tail pipe. By the way the BMS catch can has helped. I think my next project will have a cat and a dump.

  25. #75
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    take a look at DMH electronic cutouts...i wonder what size i'd need on the stock exhaust and what would be the optimal location for them not to disrupt the o2 sensors...i "think" on the midpipes just before the secondary cats...
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