01-16-2012, 09:13 AM #1
Probably the dumbest thread to grace this forum - Turbo necessitates oil cooler?
And probably going to make me seem like an idiot (great first post) but..
Do i need an oil cooler if turbocharging a car.
Wha motor you say? Why my good man its a m20b23 (soon to be replaced with 2.7) sohc bmw 6 in a e30. I plan to run about 7psi for a while then 15-20 on the 2.7. Proper 60lb injectors + Megasquirt are in, will be dyno tuned e.t.c.
I ask this because my manifold fouls on the oil cooler lines, as i have no cooler atm (broken) i am trying to decide wether it is nessicary on a street car. I am saving for a house, and unlike most people that sell their project cars id like to try and keep mine.
my driving habit constists of boring driving and taking it to the top of gears when i dont need to (overtaking or changing lanes). Will occasionally do small hillclimbs (1min-1.5) and may end up doing a track day or two but i doubt it.
coolant never goes above 95 degrees, can go for a lower thermostat if its reccomended for FI applications.
I am a tightass e30 owner (suprise?)
I cant afford to spend money on stuff that isnt really nessicary for my application as its not a track car and i am saving for a house
Do i need a oil cooler and should i go for a lower thermostat (80 or 72) to lower coolant and thus oil temps.
and i posted it here because its more a general question
01-16-2012, 09:27 AM #2
The question is, does your oil stay within safe operating temperature in all of the scenarios the car will be subject to?
If yes, then you will be fine. If no, then you will have to come up with some way to exchange heat.
01-16-2012, 09:38 AM #3
Dont have a oil temperature sender so wouldnt be able to answer that one. A n/a m20 can run without one fine, would really have to flog it consistently to get temps near thermostat opening range. i was beating the hell out of it and i couldnt get the thermostat to open (not sure what temperature it opens at as its oem). So if you were to asume that the mild turbo setup would raise temps by 10-15 deg C i wouldnt be worried myself but i have very little knowledge still when it comes to cars and even less when turboing (ive done allright with all my n/a shennanigans and restoring). But again that is just me presuming things. Before anyone demolishes me for being a bit silly its a very budget car and my goals are budget (both in cost and power lol).
would you rep but i cant rep yet84 E30 323i T40E + MSII & 7psi for starters. Hopefully more than its current 150hp lol
01-16-2012, 09:49 AM #4
In that case, try to install some form of an oil temperature gauge. You can get cheap ones from local auto-parts store for like $40.
You can usually buy a block or tee that is not restrictive and can tie into either a rubber or braided line with the right fittings. Over-heated oil WILL damage your motor and turbo, and can cause "coking" of oil around the turbocharger bearing if not given time to cool, hence the "turbo timer" products. Try to go with a ball-bearing turbo, journals are more prone to heat damage.
Also, if you are building this kit yourself, make sure to have the right oil inlet restrictor if required, and a proper oil drain or return from the turbo to the crankcase that has no kinks and doesn't have to fight gravity. Turbos are very sensitive to oil, and I'm assuming you aren't running any sort of dry sump or externally pressurized system.
Do you have an oil pressure gauge at least? I think you should get some gauges. Oil temp and boost are two big ones, as well as fuel pressure. Also, if you could get a wideband O2 sensor in your downpipe you would be pretty good as far as safety and being able to tune it properly. An EGT gauge would be nice but I don't think it will be necessary for the mild boost you will be running for now.
You are going to want a 1:1 fuel pressure/boost pressure increase to start.
Last edited by fundahl; 01-16-2012 at 09:56 AM.
01-16-2012, 09:56 AM #5
Unfortunately in aus most car stuff is hideously expensive compared to usa, especially specialty parts (fittings/gauges e.t.c).
oil drain is never horisontal, inlet goes through a very small hole whcih i hear is restriction enough, not sure what type bearing it is. and i have 60lb siemens deka injectors & a MS II ecu so i should be able to keep fuel pressure at 3 bar yeah? As for oil pressure i only have a factory switch.
I have a wideband but thats just for tuning and cruise corrections, dont have a gauge as such. and r.e. turbo timer i plan to be a good child, drive slowly near destination and wait with car idling for 30 sec or so. I have a boost gauge, am going for sleeper look with the car
84 E30 323i T40E + MSII & 7psi for starters. Hopefully more than its current 150hp lol
01-16-2012, 10:03 AM #6
Well then it sounds like you are already up for the task.
If you start getting lots of blow-by or oil smoke from your turbo I would look into your oil pressure.
Regarding fuel pressure, you mean you will stay at a constant 44psi rail pressure? From what I have done personally, I have fuel pressure coming from the pump into a fuel-pressure-regulator that has a boost nipple, and as boost comes up fuel pressure comes up at a 1:1 ratio, maintaining injection quality into the manifold. (so at 20psi boost I have 54psi fuel pressure, 10psi boost 44psi fuel, 0psi boost 34psi fuel, etc )
This is on my Z and OBDI system, so sorry if that does not apply to your injector and fuel setup.
Nice combo Boost/RPM gauge! It's gonna surprise quit a few people.
01-16-2012, 11:03 AM #7
yeah i think it maintains pressure, the FPR will see boost though on the vac side (havent been advised to put in a check valve).
Motor has a fair bit of blowby but ill keep an eye on it. Yeah normally that is an MPG meter, so its a nice treat! will also do good with police here (aus has become quite anti car enthusiast).84 E30 323i T40E + MSII & 7psi for starters. Hopefully more than its current 150hp lol
01-16-2012, 07:24 PM #8
07-17-2012, 09:53 AM #9Member
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