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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by farbmw Click here to enlarge
    No but I know you, and your skills to get a really good deal to make it worth your wild! Click here to enlarge
    I had a guy from Australia ask me to ship my AE exhaust over to him when I was selling it...guess how much shipping was turning out to be using CanadaPost, fedex, ups, you name it Click here to enlarge

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    I had a guy from Australia ask me to ship my AE exhaust over to him when I was selling it...guess how much shipping was turning out to be using CanadaPost, fedex, ups, you name it Click here to enlarge
    I don't have a clue, but you helping them with a prototype, and your negotiation skills, you could get them to pay you to send it to them and test their end product.Click here to enlarge

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by farbmw Click here to enlarge
    I don't have a clue, but you helping them with a prototype, and your negotiation skills, you could get them to pay you to send it to them and test their end product.Click here to enlarge
    i wish, no negotiating will pay for 800 bucks in shipping back/forth lol and by the way, my negotiating skills suck ass lol

    in any case personally i just don't want to run a lightweight flywheel on this car anymore, not my thing and I don't recommend it to others after having run it for a while

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    1000km done, 80/20 mix of city/hwy driving...i have to say i'm truly happy with this clutch...there's no noise, zero chatter with the OEM DMF and take offs have smoothed out mostly due to my own adjustment of clutch/gas pedal work but also due to the clutch disk being bedded in now...haven't done any high boost (20psi) pulls just yet but have gone to 17psi and the clutch just works as it should, no drama, just the way it should!

    I'll update again once I'm through about 10,000km but so far nothing but a 10/10...we'll see how it holds up at the strip when/if I make it out there this summer as plan is to hit the road coarse a bit for a change...

    Thanks HPF
    Thanks for the review. I appreciate it. Have fun at the track. Click here to enlarge

    Take care,
    Chris.
    STAGE 1 M3 TURBO KIT SALE - $13,500!!!!
    Click here to enlarge Click here to enlarge Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

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  5. #30
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Hi, Any news about this clutch? i have a Z4M and i bought stage 1 for my ESS VT2-500.

  6. #31
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    He hasn't taken it to the track yet. A guy on n54tech just welded his at the drag strip.
    2011 335is DCT, JB4 + MHD BEF, stage 2 LPFP, e50 + 50/50 meth, DCI, 7" FMIC, MT ET Streets when needed


  7. #32
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    I was assured it wouldn't weld by HPF and that its the last clutch i'd buy for this car. This is after me letting them know i am a drag strip junkie and need a clutch that will stand up to it. I have a line lock and a 2-step allowing for little to no slip. If it welds on me it'll most likely weld on anyone else. Should know in the next 2 weeks, will try my luck at the strip first time since putting it on this year.

  8. #33
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Reputation: Yes | No
    Subscribed, please let me know, I have a Z4M with ESS VT2-500 and I bought a stage 1 clutch for it.
    If this welds with my style of driving, this will probably weld with anyone since I don't drag my car, only get stuck in traffic a lot.

  9. #34
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    These clutches will weld if they SLIP. So that really depends on the launch. Here's an HPF Stage 2 feramic clutch that just welded itself after a burnout last weekend.



    Edit: I fixed it by jacking his car up, driving it in reverse and then hitting the brake. He ran the rest of the weekend (10+ passes at full power) without issue.

    I've also welded my HPF Stage 3 clutch when it slipped at the top of 3rd at full boost.

  10. #35
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    So what can you do to prevent it from welding itself?

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    So what can you do to prevent it from welding itself?
    Do not slip it. If it slips get out of it immediately.

  12. #37
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    1- How come no one is saying anything about the stage1 kit, do these not weld as much?
    2- If the clutch was broken in correctly, will it have a much lower chance of welding?
    3- will it weld under normal driving conditions, including stuck in stop and go traffic and on a hill where you are required to slip the clutch to move on ?

  13. #38
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    Not sure why everyone still hopes that this clutch will not slip. Just look at the overwhelming evidence.

  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cstavaru Click here to enlarge
    Not sure why everyone still hopes that this clutch will not slip. Just look at the overwhelming evidence.
    Do other clutches not slip or something?

  15. #40
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by cstavaru Click here to enlarge
    Not sure why everyone still hopes that this clutch will not slip. Just look at the overwhelming evidence.
    I think he meant weld.

  16. #41
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    I hope HPF does a black Friday sale, I want to buy a clutch....Thanks for the review DZ
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    ESS 6XX kit

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bobS Click here to enlarge
    I hope HPF does a black Friday sale, I want to buy a clutch....Thanks for the review DZ
    I think they are...

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Tikamak Click here to enlarge
    1- How come no one is saying anything about the stage1 kit, do these not weld as much?
    2- If the clutch was broken in correctly, will it have a much lower chance of welding?
    3- will it weld under normal driving conditions, including stuck in stop and go traffic and on a hill where you are required to slip the clutch to move on ?
    Under normal conditions/driving you'll have no issues with the clutch. Avoid 'burnouts', and 'flat footed' shifting.. etc..

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ZooyorQ Click here to enlarge
    Avoid 'burnouts', and 'flat footed' shifting.. etc..
    To fix this part, get a line lock so you don't need to slip the clutch to do a burnout and get an NLS system in place so you can flat-foot-shift (or no lift shift)...or at least that's the hope on my end...

    Stage 2 clutch is working really well on the street. Its put up with 630wtq, no fuss and flat-foot-shifting with NLS (WOTBox) in place
    Last edited by dzenno@PTF; 11-22-2012 at 04:04 PM.

  20. #45
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    might be mistaken but didnt vroom put one of these in and have it weld together first time at the track ? love the thought of hpf clutch but at twice to three times the price of other options i dont know why this is a valid option if people are suggesting not to slip the clutch. isnt this excactly what is done at the track.

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    To fix this part, get a line lock so you don't need to slip the clutch to do a burnout and get an NLS system in place so you can flat-foot-shift (or no lift shift)...or at least that's the hope on my end...

    Stage 2 clutch is working really well on the street. Its put up with 630wtq, no fuss and flat-foot-shifting with NLS (WOTBox) in place
    I have a line lock, and run a OS Giken Triple Disk. But when I did run the Feramic clutch I fused it.. I no longer run it. Its fine for street use but not a good idea for drag racing.

  22. #47
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ZooyorQ Click here to enlarge
    I have a line lock, and run a OS Giken Triple Disk. But when I did run the Feramic clutch I fused it.. I no longer run it. Its fine for street use but not a good idea for drag racing.
    How exactly did it fuse? What did you do to fuse it given you had a line lock? Slip heavily off the line?

  23. #48
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    How exactly did it fuse? What did you do to fuse it given you had a line lock? Slip heavily off the line?
    It slipped at the top of 3rd and fused. If you want to occasionally drag race with the clutch you could be perfectly fine.. but if this is something you plan to do frequently... I wouldn't use a feramic clutch.

  24. #49
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by ZooyorQ Click here to enlarge
    It slipped at the top of 3rd and fused. If you want to occasionally drag race with the clutch you could be perfectly fine.. but if this is something you plan to do frequently... I wouldn't use a feramic clutch.
    Top of 3rd while in gear and not shifting? I spend a fair amount of time at the drag strip with my car. I'd say about 50-60 passes a year. I drive it aggressively on the street too Click here to enlarge we'll see, hopefully it works out as promised

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