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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    I agree at least a day. Long post requires edit sometimes just to make it grammatically correct. Typing fast sometimes these errors are not seen until you read it again
    It shouldn't take you guys more than 10 minutes to proof-read a post.

  2. #27
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    what...what...wanna fight, mofo?

    lol

    what subscription option?
    Click here to enlarge

  3. #28
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    I have this one and apparently it can't be updated. So if you're shopping for these make sure you don't get this one, as they won't work properly with our flow range. I'll have to order the revised one for further testing.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by Terry@BMS; 12-13-2011 at 06:24 PM.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    I have this one and apparently it can't be updated. So if you're shopping for these make sure you don't get this one, as they won't work properly with our flow range. I'll have to order the revised one for further testing.
    You can make a bypass section via T-fittings and scale it to the desired flow range e.g. 200-2400 ml/min with a 50/50 split Click here to enlarge

  5. #30
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    Spoke with Jeff just now and he told me it can work. All that needs to be done is use a resistor to that green wire to make it 5 volt power and it would work. 12 volts going to that wire would fry it. Giving the green wire 5 volts will effectively give it max flow reading at 4.5 volts. He also told me that when he bench tested this 100-1200 ml unit awhile back, they were injecting over 1400 ml and the flow was not saturated at max flow of the sensor. Just got off phone with him.
    He said to me confidently that it would work.

  6. #31
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    Oh OK. I'm mainly interested in testing what people will be running so they have the proper calibration.

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    I guess the JB4 needs a voltage multiplier setting to make it work with different flow sensors, perhaps it already has?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    Oh OK. I'm mainly interested in testing what people will be running so they have the proper calibration.
    I wish Shiv got some insight from you! You are definitely a genuine gentlemen when it comes to making things work for your customers even if some of them are not using your products. I applaud you man.

  9. #34
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    I have to make due with what I have, if it doesn't work then I will get the newest flow sensor from them. I will let you guys know of my findings once I have it installed. Have to find the time to get at the car again. Been pretty lazy lately with the cold weather and all. Not looking to go outside into my cold garage and mess with a car when the inside is nice and toasty!!! Lol

  10. #35
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    what...what...wanna fight, mofo?

    lol

    what subscription option?
    Going to offer a bunch of stuff, just let me complete it and be patient guys.

  11. #36
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    I guess the JB4 needs a voltage multiplier setting to make it work with different flow sensors, perhaps it already has?
    No, each flow sensor needs it's own algorithm. The CM and Snow sensors use .1v per 100ml/min, 0v = no flow, 1.5-2v = overflow. The FSB is a unique layered algorithm. And the Aquamist is .5v = no flow, 4.5v = overflow, presuming 4.5v is equal to or greater than 1500ml/min. There is also an algorithm for the old CM sensor where we read HZ instead of volts.

  12. #37
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    [QUOTE=dzenno;227761]I've been using it for a while and its served me with no issues so far. I asked Jeff Howerton from howertonengineering.com (where i got my sensor) about his opinion on the points you brought up and here's his response:

    Dzenno. What version of the aquamist unit do you have on your car now? The 100-1200 or the one Enrita has 80-2000 ml/min???

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    No, each flow sensor needs it's own algorithm. The CM and Snow sensors use .1v per 100ml/min, 0v = no flow, 1.5-2v = overflow. The FSB is a unique layered algorithm. And the Aquamist is .5v = no flow, 4.5v = overflow, presuming 4.5v is equal to or greater than 1500ml/min. There is also an algorithm for the old CM sensor where we read HZ instead of volts.
    Terry when you used the old 100-1200 ml/min flow sensor, did you ever connect the green wire to 5 volts power or was the wire left unconnected when you tested it for flow and overflow??

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    No, each flow sensor needs it's own algorithm. The CM and Snow sensors use .1v per 100ml/min, 0v = no flow, 1.5-2v = overflow. The FSB is a unique layered algorithm. And the Aquamist is .5v = no flow, 4.5v = overflow, presuming 4.5v is equal to or greater than 1500ml/min. There is also an algorithm for the old CM sensor where we read HZ instead of volts.
    So there is a flow sensor type selector in JB4 that activates the correct algo? Great function if this is the case.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    So there is a flow sensor type selector in JB4 that activates the correct algo? Great function if this is the case.
    Click here to enlarge I tell you man the combo COBB /JB4 with Terry's support is getting better and better everyday, pity its freaken winter Click here to enlarge Car pulls like a monster and getting Vdynoes in the 450-470 whp range consistently with 18 psi tapering to 14....
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by enrita Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge I tell you man the combo COBB /JB4 with Terry's support is getting better and better everyday, pity its freaken winter Click here to enlarge Car pulls like a monster and getting Vdynoes in the 450-470 whp range consistently with 18 psi tapering to 14....
    I know. If I were to buy a tune today it would without doubt be the Cobb/JB4 combo. What is holding you back from raising the boost 2 to 3 PSI and get above 500 whp since your car should have this capability?

  17. #42
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    I know. If I were to buy a tune today it would without doubt be the Cobb/JB4 combo. What is holding you back from raising the boost 2 to 3 PSI and get above 500 whp since your car should have this capability?
    Mainly traction but i have been going up slowly in boost and just started testing the combo on stage 2+ which in IMHO much better than stage 1 because of the higher timing.
    I will increase boost on saturday weather permitting :-)
    07 335i AT - MOTIV 750 - MHD BMS E85 - BMS PI - JB4G5 - Okada Coils - NGK 5992 Plugs - Helix IC - Stett CP - Custom midpipes with 100 HJS Cats - Bastuck Quad - PSS10 - QUAIFE LSD - BMS OCC - Forge DVs - AR OC - ALCON BBK - M3 Chassi - Dinan CP - Velocity M rear Toe arms - Advan RZ-DF - LUX H8 - Level 10 AT upgrade
    Click here to enlarge

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    So there is a flow sensor type selector in JB4 that activates the correct algo? Great function if this is the case.
    Exactly.

  19. #44
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Terry when you used the old 100-1200 ml/min flow sensor, did you ever connect the green wire to 5 volts power or was the wire left unconnected when you tested it for flow and overflow??
    I honestly can't remember. At first with it disconnected the sensor would max out at 300ml/min or something ridiculously low so I rigged up some circuit to extend it. But testing +5v on the green is easy to do so I'll try to get that one next time I have a few moments.

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
    I honestly can't remember. At first with it disconnected the sensor would max out at 300ml/min or something ridiculously low so I rigged up some circuit to extend it. But testing +5v on the green is easy to do so I'll try to get that one next time I have a few moments.
    Yeah getting +5volts on that wire should be easy...Tap onto the 12volt power wire but add a 5 volt output resistor from Radio Shack or some electronics hobby store, in between the red and the green wire of the flow sensor as per Jeff from Howerton told me...Terry I really hope you can test this out to see if the older one works because I have not yet installed mine and want to know before hand if I am wasting my time! If you dont test it, then I guess sometime during this winter I will test it out myself.

  21. #46
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Yeah getting +5volts on that wire should be easy...Tap onto the 12volt power wire but add a 5 volt output resistor from Radio Shack or some electronics hobby store, in between the red and the green wire of the flow sensor as per Jeff from Howerton told me...Terry I really hope you can test this out to see if the older one works because I have not yet installed mine and want to know before hand if I am wasting my time! If you dont test it, then I guess sometime during this winter I will test it out myself.
    To give it +5v you'd either just borrow a +5v reference from the DME with something like a 5k resistor to protect the DME circuit in the event of a short, or you'd need to rig up a voltage regulator. It's possible running 12v through some large resistor (like 20k ohm) will also serve the same purpose. I don't know anything about the internal circuit design so Jeff would have to answer that.

    Anyway while Eric and Jason were packing all the OCCs I took a few minutes to do some addl bench testing. I used a simple 5v regulator and just ran 5v in to the green wire, and then tested the output voltages with lots of different nozzles.

    No Flow: 0.53v
    DO1: 2.40v
    CM5: 2.65v
    CM7: 3.25v
    DO10: 3.45v
    CM10: 3.53v
    Open Flow (no nozzle): 3.79v

    I was excited going through each nozzle until I got to the end and tested with no nozzle. I was expecting 4.5v with it given fluid was flying out 3x as fast as with the largest nozzle tested. But at only 3.79v there isn't enough of a spread for a proper overflow. Click here to enlarge Also the sensor didn't seem overly linear which we could correct with a JB4 algorithm but was a bit odd. Perhaps some other circuit can be rigged up externally to correct this but getting the new sensor design might be the easiest option.

  22. #47
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    I will wait for your testing of the new unit and then take it from there. Thanks Terry for testing it. I guess I have a new 60 dollar paper weightClick here to enlarge

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    I was speaking to Jeff this morning as he is quite helpful in trying to get it to work for me...He told me to wire the 12 volt power source with two resistors 10k and 4.7 K and in the middle of the resistors connect the green wire for roughly a 5 volt output. He also told me at the end of the 4.7k resistor to hook up the blue wire( which is ground for flow sensor) and pigtail a wire from resistor to ground of chassis. This will give a true 4.5 volt readout from flow sensor. I am no wiring expert and I questioned the blue wire being pigtailed with the resistor and then to ground as I told him wasnt it going to short the flow unit out, as its being wired in series to the red switched power wire even though the resistors of 10k and 4.7 would effectively take out most of the current!!. Jeff told me the resistors would effectively give the ground wire a .0009 power which is nothing to worry about. This wiring would effectively calibrate the sensor to read the full 4.5 volts and probably why terry you were not getting the full 4.5 volt readout of full flow! I am not sure what to believe!!! Terry test it out brother. You are the man that tests everything! What do you think Terry???


    basically a caveman wiring diagram!

    12 volt wire--------10k------4.7k-------->blue wire----ground chassis
    !
    !
    !
    Green wire
    Last edited by Cn555ic; 12-15-2011 at 09:17 PM.

  24. #49
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    In between the 10k and 4.7k resistor you wire in the green wire


    Disregard the post 48 as I could not edit that because of this terrible functionality that does not allow you to edit after 10 minutes...Total fail in my book

    The green wire does not hook up to the 12 volt wire...

  25. #50
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    Eh yeah I dunno. I was expecting 4.5v with no nozzle. The electronics are potted so I can't really look at their circuit to see how it works. If it's just a basic micro-controller reading an analog input then the way I have it configured with 5v going to green should be fine. If its some sort of analog offset circuit then who knows, maybe its current based. It sounds like he is asking you to make a simple voltage dividing circuit down to around 6v.

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