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  1. #1
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    Signs of intake valve carbon buildup?

    My N54 335i currently has about 54,500 miles, and I swear when I'm putt-putting around town at 1500RPM, I feel a miss every now and again. If this a sign that I should be digging into my intake valves for a cleaning? My idle is pretty spot-on without any issues, so I'm not too sure what to think. This only seems to happen at 1500-1700 rpm or so. I don't remember this happening when I didn't have the jb4 attached, but I cannot really see how the JB4 could even be an issue when I'm just cruising like an old lady. If I do need to pull the intake manifold and get in in there, is there any gaskets that I need? Also, you guys use rifle cleaning brushes and GM top end cleaner correct? If this is a symptom, I would like to get my poop in a group and get everything I need to do this job before I start. My plugs only have about 10k miles on them, so they should be good to go.

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    If you think it may be the JB4 then disconnect it and try.

    If you haven't had them cleaned 54,000 miles is plenty, do it.

  3. #3
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    How does it idle?
    JB4LIFE

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by mazdaspeed6 Click here to enlarge
    How does it idle?
    He claimed idle is good...
    Click here to enlarge
    997.1 tt
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  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by xbox_fan Click here to enlarge
    He claimed idle is good...
    Read too quick, Click here to enlarge you can bring it to a shop and have them use a scope to check the valves out... But at 54k it wouldn't hurt to just clean them.
    JB4LIFE

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    i've been running meth since mid '08, i don't have as many miles but would love to see my intake valves and if the meth truly is mitigating the build-up. if it is, it's just one more reason every n54 owner with a mod-bug eating at them should get meth.
    Click here to enlarge
    2007 335i Coupe
    Mods: Check the Garage

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    I forgot that we have a scope I could borrow from work. I'll probably pick it up and check it out first. I'll see if there is a way to post pics from the scope.

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    maybe seafoam it just for kicks without doing the big labor lol
    Burger Motorsports
    Home of the Worlds fastest N20s, N54s, N55s, S55s, N63s, and S63s!

    It is the sole responsibility of the purchaser and installer of any BMS part to employ the correct installation techniques required to ensure the proper operation of BMS parts, and BMS disclaims any and all liability for any part failure due to improper installation or use. It is the sole responsibility of the customer to verify that the use of their vehicle and items purchased comply with federal, state and local regulations. BMS claims no legal federal, state or local certification concerning pollution controlled motor vehicles or mandated emissions requirements. BMS products labeled for use only in competition racing vehicles may only be used on competition racing vehicles operated exclusively on a closed course in conjunction with a sanctioned racing event, in accordance with all federal and state laws, and may never be operated on public roads/highways. Please click here for more information on legal requirements related to use of BMS parts.

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I'd try to give it a good treatment with BG 44K and BG ICS. This is what I'm doing right now Click here to enlarge


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    What kinda cost are we talking about to have a shop clean the valves on this motor? Anyone actually had it done?
    08' 135i MT || Cobb 3.01 Agr. Map / BMS DCI (currently on stock airbox) / Berk Tech. Full Street Exhaust || 272whp/295wtq w/ no tune ||

  11. #11
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    Lost Marine has had it done, as well as a few customers of mine. LM has been spraying meth for as long as I can remember, and his were still VERY gunked up. The before and after results were astounding, he gained 11hp at the wheels from it. I use Valvoline Fuel Injector concentrate, and fill up each runner with it, let it sit for 15-20 minutes and then soak it up with a rag....it will usually take the crud right off the aluminum and make it look like new. If I leave it in for over an hour it will usually dissolve the crud that is stuck to the intake valve, and usually light scrubbing with a rifle brush cleans out the rest.

    I try to encourage customers to do it if you are above the 50k mark, or if you have bought a preowned car and it only had the basic oil changes every 15k.

    If you change your oil more frequently the buildup actually is less..

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    Matt you should setup a group buy intake valve cleaning lol

  13. #13
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by sluflyer06 Click here to enlarge
    What kinda cost are we talking about to have a shop clean the valves on this motor? Anyone actually had it done?
    Take a look here as well: http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...arbon-Deposits

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    So, the treatment with BG products is now finished. This is what I've done:

    - Run one full fuel tank that was mixed with BG 44K. This is debated for N54 engines since it does not clean the intake valves. But who wants sooty injectors and carbon on piston tops and in the cylinder head's combustion area? This is what is supposed to be fixed if BG's declarations are true.

    - The meth/water solution in the WW container was mixed with the same proportion of BG44K as the fuel. I've been running with a meth activation point of 2 PSI during the last week to get as much BG 44K as possible into the engine via the Induction Pipe during normal commuting.

    - Today I conducted the last step, injected the other product that is dedicated for DI-engines, the BG Induction System Cleaner, directly in the Induction Pipe. I used an air compressor and a 20 buck fluid gun, which was connected to a N2O nozzle that I have on the IP. The fluid gun didn't work as it should when it was connected it to a CM10 nozzle. This caused to much back pressure so the air just entered the can and did not pump out fluid via the nozzle. The restriction in the #32 N2O nozzle is lower and this nozzle worked well. There is a nozzle included with the fluid gun, which I guess can be used, but the N2O nozzle is better since it directs the fluid downstream.

    It would of course have been excellent to have before/after pictures of piston crowns, intake runners and valves. But I decided to not remove the intake just for this. In such case I could as well have cleaned the valves manually to perfection and the idea of this was just to follow BG's procedure and not remove stuff. Perhaps someone else will be inspired by this and take photos Click here to enlarge.

    The most important thing is to able to adjust the RPM correctly.. so if you dont have an adjustable walking stick you can as well forget to make this treatment Click here to enlarge

    I started to inject the fluid at 1200 rpm but after a while the rpm began to change up and down and I got a half engine light. I restarted the engine and adjusted the RPM to 2 k, then it was no problem to empty the can in about 10 minutes per BG's instruction. When the can was empty I let the engine run another 10 minutes at 2 k and then took the car for a good road trip, starting with girl-driving and afterhand a lot of WOT's. The engine runs silk smooth and strong and the previous sputter when going off throttle after high RPM test reving in neutral is completely gone Click here to enlarge
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    The engine runs silk smooth and strong and the previous sputter when going off throttle after high RPM test reving in neutral is completely gone
    Interesting, so seems you cleaned it out. Nice work! Like the ski pole assist as well.

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    I scoped the intake and took a look around. I have 55k miles and the valves didn't look too bad, not as bad as my 2009 GTI did at 34k even running methanol. I took a picture of the screen on the scope and will post it up in time, but I need to figure out a better way to get the images on a computer. The scope only has a RCA output, and I don't really have anything to copy it with. I'll see if I can find my old video camera and scope it again and copy it to an SD card. I'm tempted to try the BG method and take another look, just to see if it actually works. This might be a worth while thing to do. I'm not convinced that methanol actually does anything but get the gunk on the backsides of the valves wet. I'm thinking only a petroleum based solvent is the only way to get the crap off. I'll let you guys know. I also slapped my downpipes and DCI back on tonight and whoa. -much better!

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    I just had the intakes cleaned today at 27,000. Cost about $350 including oil change. Car feels quicker, and no stumbling. I ran some BG44K about a month ago, but talking to Harold at HP Autowerks he thought every 25,000 miles was about the time span to consider doing it. I went by Harold's shop to inquire and ended up having it done.

    I have come to the conclusion that having maint. done at about half the recommended intervals is a good idea. I went to my dealer earlier this week, and they don't even cover intake cleaning. This is likely to become a big issue as more and more engines go to direct injection.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Interesting, so seems you cleaned it out. Nice work! Like the ski pole assist as well.
    Walking pole FTW Click here to enlarge

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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Here's the best I could do for a picture of my valves.

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

  20. #20
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ryan Mills Click here to enlarge
    That is awesome, what tool did you use to get that?

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Home depot special: the RIGID "See Snake". We had one at work, and it seems to work pretty good.
    http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Ryan Mills Click here to enlarge
    Here's the best I could do for a picture of my valves.
    Interesting, is there a sensor or something else that can be removed to enter a borescope without removing the intake manifold?

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    Interesting, is there a sensor or something else that can be removed to enter a borescope without removing the intake manifold?
    I just unclipped the charge pipe from the throttle body and went in through the throttle body butterfly.

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    Great to know, thanks. I'll replace the charge pipe anyway so I'll take a look then.

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    Sorry for this noob question but how does engine oil change affect carbon buildup at the intake valves?

    Ryan Miller I hope that you will do the BG valve cleaning method and then take some pics with the borescope again, so we can see visually the results.

    R1000k3, any updates?Click here to enlarge

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