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  1. #51
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    I guess its each to their own, like you running a .20 jet - its your personal preference. I do not see why I should activate the nitrous earlier when the boost can take care of the power and enough power to break the gearbox in my case. If I activate it at 3000 it will just peel the tires right through the gears and besides why would I want to shock the engine at such low rpm when I do not have too at this stage. What I have now is not what I sucked out of my thumb but what works for the cars dynamics to get it to move forward fast and in a orderly fashion. If the gearbox could handle it I would be pushing 600whp but it can't therefore I need to adapt. Keep in my mind that the dyno I use is similar to a Mustang in terms of output so 500whp is quite a bit of power to be putting down.
    I hear you George! Personal preference for sure! I run a .20 jet is because I respect nitrous and what it can do, at the same time I know larger jets will induce more strain on the engine and increase the chances of engine failure, which I will avoid as much as possible. I could only imagine what larger jets would feel like as I feel a huge bump in power with my .20 jet, but I will leave it to the other nitrous renegades like yourself to max out nitrous power potential..

  2. #52
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    I guess its each to their own, like you running a .20 jet - its your personal preference. I do not see why I should activate the nitrous earlier when the boost can take care of the power and enough power to break the gearbox in my case. If I activate it at 3000 it will just peel the tires right through the gears and besides why would I want to shock the engine at such low rpm when I do not have too at this stage. What I have now is not what I sucked out of my thumb but what works for the cars dynamics to get it to move forward fast and in a orderly fashion. If the gearbox could handle it I would be pushing 600whp but it can't therefore I need to adapt. Keep in my mind that the dyno I use is similar to a Mustang in terms of output so 500whp is quite a bit of power to be putting down.
    Why not upgrade the tranny? Don't take it disrespectfully I'm just asking questions and trying to discuss...i just don't understand why you'd go a wet nitrous path when you can have the same power on RBs only, or is that not the case?

    Personally I'd first be upgrading the tranny and then adding a wet shot once the turbos are maxed out...
    Click here to enlarge

  3. #53
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Why not upgrade the tranny? Don't take it disrespectfully I'm just asking questions and trying to discuss...i just don't understand why you'd go a wet nitrous path when you can have the same power on RBs only, or is that not the case?

    Personally I'd first be upgrading the tranny and then adding a wet shot once the turbos are maxed out...
    The RB max out at around 470 at this altitude (5600ft) on the dyno I use.
    Your questions are very valid. Prior to fitting the nos I was negotiating with level 10 to have the box done. Communication was very slow and it stopped at the point of them telling me they would get a core and let me know when they are ready. I got the nitrous and fitted it and never heard from them again. So I played a bit with it.
    Then Weistecs superchargers came along so I decided to rathe throw the money into my C63 with prooven outcomes and room for more experimentation on my side.
    Moving forward with the 35 would require wider fenders at the back as the 275's DR's don't cut it. Expensive suspension, bigger breaks and ultimately having to ship my gearbox to level 10 at a huge expense from South Africa. Being the wifes daily makes these things hard as I have a no overnight down time policy with the car. All of these issues take me out of my 10 second goal. At the moment I will just be happy to grab the 60-130 record for a while. Mid sixes are possible so I just need to do it formally.

  4. #54
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    When you were pulsing the solenoid for nitrous, did it also pulse the fuel solenoid too? How high was the lean spike that you saw when it happened?
    The fuel solenoid needs to be pulsed too or the engine would be drawn in fuel during the ramp up phase. It will still be more fuel than normal until the solenoids are continuously open since the fuel solenoid opens much quicker than the N2O solenoid. If I recall correct the time for closure is also faster on the N2O solenoid, it should be.

  5. #55
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    I just wanted to say thanks about the staging of the solenoids. I ran the fuel on the second stage and activate it 100rpm prior to the gas and the lean spike is gone. I have also moved to NOS solenoids and am not pulsing anymore.
    Your welcome! Glad it worked.

    Your RPM points are pretty close to what I did as well without pulsing...but it will be different for everyone depending on the distribution lines and how fast the engine revs.

    On my 330i...I won't be turbo limited like you are, but I'm still planning on running nitrous at the track. Whatever the car makes at 14psi for peak torque, I'll try to add nitrous as RPM increases to keep the torque flat.

    Like you say: Why make more power when you can't use it....

    No clue on how much of a shot I'll run yet....probably going to start with 25hp and see how that works. I'm not greedy....knowing very well what a 200 ft/lb torque cliff can do to drivetrain components on activation. Been there...not doing that on a street car. LOL

    Great to see another project where KISS is in effect!
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    Your welcome! Glad it worked.

    Your RPM points are pretty close to what I did as well without pulsing...but it will be different for everyone depending on the distribution lines and how fast the engine revs.

    On my 330i...I won't be turbo limited like you are, but I'm still planning on running nitrous at the track. Whatever the car makes at 14psi for peak torque, I'll try to add nitrous as RPM increases to keep the torque flat.

    Like you say: Why make more power when you can't use it....

    No clue on how much of a shot I'll run yet....probably going to start with 25hp and see how that works. I'm not greedy....knowing very well what a 200 ft/lb torque cliff can do to drivetrain components on activation. Been there...not doing that on a street car. LOL

    Great to see another project where KISS is in effect!
    Thats a very similar shot that I am using which is using a .20 jet. Although I can spin practically the entire 2nd gear if I am on it, but what I do is feather the throttle slowly to WOT and then hit the nitrous button at around 4000-4500rpms and then when it hits 3rd gear and higher, the tires catch and there is just very slight wheel spin but the car just projects forward at an incredible speed.. The strain on the drivetrain at 3000rpms is relatively on the low side IMO especially in 3rd gear and on, but if your spraying in second gear the rpms should be higher for sure and activation should be somewhere from 4000-5000..This is where a manual trigger button is most useful, or a system that has 1st and 2nd gear lockout..Most of strain on the tranny will be during 1st or 2nd gear spray. You would be surprised the power increase you get from just a small .20 jet especially on a full bottle at 1050psi! Definitely noticeable for sure.

  7. #57
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Thats a very similar shot that I am using which is using a .20 jet. Although I can spin practically the entire 2nd gear if I am on it, but what I do is feather the throttle slowly to WOT and then hit the nitrous button at around 4000-4500rpms and then when it hits 3rd gear and higher, the tires catch and there is just very slight wheel spin but the car just projects forward at an incredible speed.. The strain on the drivetrain at 3000rpms is relatively on the low side IMO especially in 3rd gear and on, but if your spraying in second gear the rpms should be higher for sure and activation should be somewhere from 4000-5000..This is where a manual trigger button is most useful, or a system that has 1st and 2nd gear lockout..Most of strain on the tranny will be during 1st or 2nd gear spray. You would be surprised the power increase you get from just a small .20 jet especially on a full bottle at 1050psi! Definitely noticeable for sure.
    It's the intercooling effect...that's why you see the big gains on a 15hp jet.

    I would keep your bottle pressure in the 900s....nitrous actually reaches a critical state and turns to gas just above 1050psi....not a good thing.
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  8. #58
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    Guys I am bringIng this thread back from it's death. Want to start playing again so if anyone knows of a auto transmission for sale in the states please let me know.

  9. #59
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    There is surely a lot more nitrous talk on here lately. I'm so glad you guys are here and I'm sure I'll be calling on you soon for some help.
    2011 335is DCT, moving to Italy, looking for new car friends Click here to enlarge

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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    Guys I am bringIng this thread back from it's death. Want to start playing again so if anyone knows of a auto transmission for sale in the states please let me know.
    Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i Click here to enlarge
    Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
    Thanks for that.

  12. #62
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i Click here to enlarge
    Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
    Thanks for that.

  13. #63
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i Click here to enlarge
    Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    Thanks for that.
    becareful!!!! i used that site to get a hold on a new engine and person i bought it from sold me a broken engine and wont return my money
    Click here to enlarge

  14. #64
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    all automotive imports inc is specifically the one im having issues with
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    becareful!!!! i used that site to get a hold on a new engine and person i bought it from sold me a broken engine and wont return my money
    Thanks for the heads up.

  16. #66
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
    all automotive imports inc is specifically the one im having issues with
    who did you get it from?
    Click here to enlarge

  17. #67
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
    who did you get it from?
    car-part.com-->all automotive imports inc in texas
    Click here to enlarge

  18. #68
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    George,

    How is your car doing and still running N20?
    For Sale:

    - NX Express complete wet kit with Plug & Play fuel adapter for BMW 335i

    - FBO parts here LINK


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