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  1. #26
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    At the moment in terms of fueling we in the safe level of what the stock system can give extra. At higher boost level we will have to go with a minimum .28 fuel jet. The spike you mention is evident and takes the initial AFR to 14's for around 200rpm. We avoiding purging at this stage to avoid this but its not really a train smash in my opinion. When I get the upgraded gearbox I will be going direct port and we will use the 2 stage method you mentioned through the NX controller. The extending of the nitrous line is also affective but we do not have the luxury of having a shop around the corner here in South Africa. Chances are the nitrous solenoid will stay in the existing place and the fuel solenoid will be close to the manifold.
    Thank you very much for the effort you have taken to put down your experience for every ones benefit. I am going to look at the WON solenoids and test out a set.
    Complete side note, I dealt a lot with clients in South Africa, and if you're doing all this modding and stuff then you must be BALLIN down there! Pretty sure the average annual income is somewhere around 12,000 USD.

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by klipseracer Click here to enlarge
    Complete side note, I dealt a lot with clients in South Africa, and if you're doing all this modding and stuff then you must be BALLIN down there! Pretty sure the average annual income is somewhere around 12,000 USD.
    Haha this is actually my wife's car for groceries. I am average here there is a lot of wealth her and poverty on the same note.

  3. #28
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    Haha this is actually my wife's car for groceries.
    Huh, I should boost the girl's car too.

  4. #29
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    Our next track day is on the 4th of September. Will be doing some testing to see if there is any benefit of using the methanol until then and if the gearbox arrives in time will be going with bigger jets. Lets see what happens. I do not expect to duplicate US numbers here but from what I have seen I stand a good chance of getting the 60-130 record even at this altitude.
    Are there no options around you for lower altitude runs?

  5. #30
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Are there no options around you for lower altitude runs?
    590km away but got it planned to go. For now I am just aiming for 60-130 times until I pull the rear wider for traction off the mark.

  6. #31
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    George any updates on this??

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
    George,


    One thing that's missing from your dyno graph is the AFR plot, specifically what happens when the nitrous system is activated. Do you have a lean spike? If so, how long does it last? I've used either a 2 stage controller with nitrous and fuel hooked up to different stages to "time" the activation point, and get rid of the lean spike electronically. The best scenario though is to put the fuel solenoid within inches of the discharge nozzle. I've played with running 8", 12", 18", and 24" nitrous lines after the nitrous solenoid, and found that the difference in activation delay was minimal, and that you get a lot better effect by keeping the fuel solenoid closer to the discharge nozzle. I personally prefer to "fix" an activation lean spike physically, rather than electronically.....
    I just wanted to say thanks about the staging of the solenoids. I ran the fuel on the second stage and activate it 100rpm prior to the gas and the lean spike is gone. I have also moved to NOS solenoids and am not pulsing anymore.

  8. #33
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    Any new dynos George? Instead of pulsing do you just open the fuel and nos solenoids now? What're you using to set up fuel and nos activation?
    Click here to enlarge

  9. #34
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Any new dynos George? Instead of pulsing do you just open the fuel and nos solenoids now? What're you using to set up fuel and nos activation?
    Not really interested in dynos, I have been doing testing on the road mostly just to check the AFR's. Am keeping the power around 500whp due to the gearbox. I am using the NX controller without any pulsing or ramp.

  10. #35
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    What boost/timing/AFR are you running with it?
    Click here to enlarge

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    When you were pulsing the solenoid for nitrous, did it also pulse the fuel solenoid too? How high was the lean spike that you saw when it happened?

  12. #37
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    Also why not as a precautionary measure also inject some methanol into the intake track for some added security! It can't hurt and I would do it for sure

  13. #38
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    What boost/timing/AFR are you running with it?
    low 12's into 11's at the top.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    When you were pulsing the solenoid for nitrous, did it also pulse the fuel solenoid too? How high was the lean spike that you saw when it happened?
    They on the same circuit so I guess it pulsed both. As PEI33ci mentioned the pulsing is not very accurate and on ramp up I was getting variable outputs on initial dyno testing.

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    Also why not as a precautionary measure also inject some methanol into the intake track for some added security! It can't hurt and I would do it for sure
    My methanol system was initially removed as I had the car set up to run with a flash tune hence to safety net. I am also hesitant with over fueling the car as it can cause major backfires in conjunction with the nitrous. I am not to phased with extra security, when I put the nitrous on I was prepared if the engine broke. Where I got caught out was I was expecting the gearbox to handle more, I am still planning to run a big jet for a 60-130 glory run.

  14. #39
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    Good to know! I am also running low 12s- 11s on nitrous. Look forward to your glory runs!!

  15. #40
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    George, how much boost and what timing?
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    George, how much boost and what timing?
    I run 16psi in the midrange and taper it down to 13 from 5500 and up. At 5000rpm the gas kicks in although I play around with it quite a bit. Timing starts stock like and tapers to 9 degrees. I can run more timing because of the altitude I am at.

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    So you have nitrous kick in at 5100 and fueling kick in at 5000rpms?? If so why so late in the rpm band?

  18. #43
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    So you have nitrous kick in at 5100 and fueling kick in at 5000rpms?? If so why so late in the rpm band?
    The car makes enough torque in the midrange to break traction as it is. Besides once you start shifting you do not need the power that low. It also preserves the motor. If the gas came in sooner with the torque the RB's make I am sure it will bend the rods.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    The car makes enough torque in the midrange to break traction as it is. Besides once you start shifting you do not need the power that low. It also preserves the motor. If the gas came in sooner with the torque the RB's make I am sure it will bend the rods.
    I hear your reasoning but this is the first I have seen nitrous activation so high in the rpm band.. The norm I see is between 3000-6200, the meat of the rpm band..At what rpm do you have nitrous shut off?

  20. #45
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    The car makes enough torque in the midrange to break traction as it is. Besides once you start shifting you do not need the power that low. It also preserves the motor. If the gas came in sooner with the torque the RB's make I am sure it will bend the rods.
    Would you adjust anything if you went down to sea level?
    Click here to enlarge

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Would you adjust anything if you went down to sea level?
    Boost for boost the RB make about 5% less power up here than at the coast so I am sure some fine tuning will have to be made but I do not think its crucial. Although the boost is similar there is less oxygen in the air flow. I do think the ECU will compensate the difference and theoretically the nitrous/fuel relation remains the same.

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    I hear your reasoning but this is the first I have seen nitrous activation so high in the rpm band.. The norm I see is between 3000-6200, the meat of the rpm band..At what rpm do you have nitrous shut off?
    Yah, I am basically tuning the nitrous for the cars traction capability as well. When making the massive torque in the mid range there is not point in throwing more on top of that. I shut the nitrous around 6300 and rev a extra 100 odd rpm prior to the shift. This helps clean any fuel that didn't atomize properly clear the manifold.

  23. #48
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
    Yah, I am basically tuning the nitrous for the cars traction capability as well. When making the massive torque in the mid range there is not point in throwing more on top of that. I shut the nitrous around 6300 and rev a extra 100 odd rpm prior to the shift. This helps clean any fuel that didn't atomize properly clear the manifold.
    I think you got it backwards there in terms of when to hit the button...why would you limit torque anywhere? You need to solve traction where it needs to be solved, at the "tires" and rear suspension...put some fat ass sticky DRs on the back and let her fly...similar reason why I don't agree with people using boost reduction in 1st and 2nd gear just to be able to launch their car...its not the right way to do these things...we want more power everywhere (low, mid, high rpms) and deal with traction by going stickier/fatter tires and better dialed in suspension...i understand if the goal is just to work with what you already got (e.g. street tires) but then you're just putting in a workaround and those don't work if at the same time you're going for glory runs
    Click here to enlarge

  24. #49
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    I guess each person has their own ideas of where to put down power with nitrous. I have done a ton of research on nitrous before I even pulled the trigger and all the users have their systems trigger somwhere from 3000-6300 rpms.. Having nitrous spray from
    5100-6300 is such a small window that I think you wouldnt even get a real effect of the nitrous...But hey if its working for you, I guess thats your preference. I have mine spray based upon what I have researched and its at 3000-6300..

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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
    I guess each person has their own ideas of where to put down power with nitrous. I have done a ton of research on nitrous before I even pulled the trigger and all the users have their systems trigger somwhere from 3000-6300 rpms.. Having nitrous spray from
    5100-6300 is such a small window that I think you wouldnt even get a real effect of the nitrous...But hey if its working for you, I guess thats your preference. I have mine spray based upon what I have researched and its at 3000-6300..
    I guess its each to their own, like you running a .20 jet - its your personal preference. I do not see why I should activate the nitrous earlier when the boost can take care of the power and enough power to break the gearbox in my case. If I activate it at 3000 it will just peel the tires right through the gears and besides why would I want to shock the engine at such low rpm when I do not have too at this stage. What I have now is not what I sucked out of my thumb but what works for the cars dynamics to get it to move forward fast and in a orderly fashion. If the gearbox could handle it I would be pushing 600whp but it can't therefore I need to adapt. Keep in my mind that the dyno I use is similar to a Mustang in terms of output so 500whp is quite a bit of power to be putting down.

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