Close

Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast
Results 26 to 50 of 239
  1. #26
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    236
    Rep Points
    21.0
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge its another thing to drain my wallet lol

    Given everything I've replaced is there any way to approach this in a more scientific way and log certain things to have a better understanding...by the time I'm done replacing everything I could've just gone out and bought another N54..
    Batteries are cheaper than Okadas... Click here to enlarge.

    Another thing you could do to test if it's the voltage going low would be to borrow a capacitor from someone's audio setup and put it in line with the battery. If you don't know or have access to anyone up there with one, I have an old one lying around that I could lend to help test the cause.
    Click here to enlarge

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    6,682
    Rep Points
    3,335.6
    Mentioned
    225 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    34



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DefactoM6 Click here to enlarge
    Batteries are cheaper than Okadas... Click here to enlarge.

    Another thing you could do to test if it's the voltage going low would be to borrow a capacitor from someone's audio setup and put it in line with the battery. If you don't know or have access to anyone up there with one, I have an old one lying around that I could lend to help test the cause.
    What would the capacitor do exactly?
    Click here to enlarge

  3. #28
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    236
    Rep Points
    21.0
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    So the BT can't show exactly when the code is thrown in a log? Or does it only throw it after a specified amount of time or something?
    Click here to enlarge

  4. #29
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    236
    Rep Points
    21.0
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    3 out of 3 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Capacitors in this application provide full power w/no voltage drop when a large amount of current is quickly demanded for short bursts of time. Think of a battery like a distance runner...he's got a ton of lung capacity (lots of juice to deliver over a long period of time), but if you ask it to run a 400 meter sprint, he's falling flat on his face after the first 50 meters because his fast twitch muscle fibers are grossly undertrained and they simply didn't have the ability to keep firing at the rate needed to be competitive. Think of the capacitor like a sprinter...can provide consistent bursts of high power for short periods of demand.

    Capacitors are used in competition car audio systems to prevent voltage drops during huge current draws, like heavy bass hits. A capacitor in this application would be gross overkill, because the stock car isn't drawing anywhere close to that amount to require it. Honestly...you're better off fiercely monitoring voltage in the system, and/or replacing the battery, because it should have more than enough to not have voltage drops. A capacitor would merely be a way of really eliminating the charging system variable.
    Click here to enlarge

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    6,682
    Rep Points
    3,335.6
    Mentioned
    225 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    34



    Yes Reputation No
    You can't add it into your datalog...but the freeze frame information when you read codes gives you the exact RPM it happened at so I guess I could correlate..
    Click here to enlarge

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL.
    Posts
    1,892
    Rep Points
    771.0
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    8


    Yes Reputation No
    @defactom6 have read some of your recent posts, you seem very knowledgeable, look forward to your future posts and help you give.

    dzenno, after you try his theory, which should rule out voltage if the dme doesnt go crazy, is check your injector clips, the metal ones, that hold 2 injectors down. even a hairline crack will cause instability in injection angle. it fixed my weird gremlin and the car has been a monster since.
    Click here to enlarge
    2007 335i Coupe
    Mods: Check the Garage

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13,468
    Rep Points
    58.0
    Mentioned
    318 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    @defactom6 have read some of your recent posts, you seem very knowledgeable, look forward to your future posts and help you give.

    dzenno, after you try his theory, which should rule out voltage if the dme doesnt go crazy, is check your injector clips, the metal ones, that hold 2 injectors down. even a hairline crack will cause instability in injection angle. it fixed my weird gremlin and the car has been a monster since.
    I think he tried that already,

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    2,730
    Rep Points
    2,499.1
    Mentioned
    40 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    25


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    What would the capacitor do exactly?
    A capacitor builds up power. Once the power reaches a certain level, it jumps over and is released all at once. I had one in my IS-250 and it helped with the dimming of the interior lights and helped on my 330i cuz my radio would dim as well.
    Last edited by klipseracer; 06-23-2011 at 10:15 PM.

  9. #34
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Hanover, MD
    Posts
    1,247
    Rep Points
    697.1
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No
    How large / how many farads would he need to have any possible positive effect?
    Click here to enlarge

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    95
    Rep Points
    80.1
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    1 Farad would be more than enough for his test given the short duration of the issue. The capacitor will discharge once the voltage drops below the capacitors potential energy or stored voltage. Make sure you wire the capacitor up in parallel and make the ground wire as short as possible. A capacitor wired in series in a DC circuit acts as an open circuit so you will effectively disconnect the battery from the vehicle.
    Last edited by indy99gpgt; 06-23-2011 at 11:18 PM.
    2008 BSM 335i coupe - JB4, BMS intake, meth : Weekend warrior.

  11. #36
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Hanover, MD
    Posts
    1,247
    Rep Points
    697.1
    Mentioned
    4 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    7


    Yes Reputation No
    Ah that should be easy enough to acquire. I was going to volunteer my 10 farad in the event he couldn't find a large one local
    Click here to enlarge

  12. #37
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    1,315
    Rep Points
    552.0
    Mentioned
    0 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    6


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SSDD Click here to enlarge
    Ah that should be easy enough to acquire. I was going to volunteer my 10 farad in the event he couldn't find a large one local
    10 farad is nice.
    Anywhere from 1-10 will work good.
    whats the difference between a ginger and a shoe.........shoes have soles

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    6,682
    Rep Points
    3,335.6
    Mentioned
    225 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    34



    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Did 10 pulls...here's the logs...Cobb and JB+ on top...misfires are in logs where RPM doesn't pass 6500rpm...every log where RPM went up above 6500rpm didn't misfire...this is running about 18psi down to 15psi at redline...its running about 80/20 meth...

    One thing these logs tell for sure is that the battery is legit and a non-issue here...

    Also, very important to notice, all the runs done starting BELOW the vanos changeover event (4400rpm) failed with a misfire up top...all runs starting ABOVE the vanos changeover event "succeeded" and no misfire up top...is this pointing at possibly a bad crank or cam sensor that gets noisy up top??

    All runs are BACK TO BACK runs, one after another:

    NO misfire:
    Click here to enlarge

    NO misfire:
    Click here to enlarge

    NO misfire:
    Click here to enlarge

    MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge

    NO MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge

    NO MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge

    NO MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge

    MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge

    MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge

    MISFIRE:
    Click here to enlarge
    Click here to enlarge

  14. #39
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Miami, FL.
    Posts
    1,892
    Rep Points
    771.0
    Mentioned
    9 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    8


    Yes Reputation No
    thanks for the logs. glad you recorded timing, looks good though. so does afr. i can see why you feel so desperate, i feel for you man, hope you can get this all resolved with little more out of pocket.
    Click here to enlarge
    2007 335i Coupe
    Mods: Check the Garage

  15. #40
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    Boca Raton FL
    Posts
    1,989
    Rep Points
    48.0
    Mentioned
    3 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    $#@! I am having the same problem. I replaced the coil on cyl 5 and it went away for a while but it came back after 2 months . I was going to buy the Okada Coils but it seems coils are not the problem. its driving me crazy to the point that I might take everything out an sell the car.

  16. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    338
    Rep Points
    442.7
    Mentioned
    8 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    5


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by DefactoM6 Click here to enlarge
    Batteries are cheaper than Okadas... Click here to enlarge.

    Another thing you could do to test if it's the voltage going low would be to borrow a capacitor from someone's audio setup and put it in line with the battery. If you don't know or have access to anyone up there with one, I have an old one lying around that I could lend to help test the cause.
    It will not work to put a capacitor in line with the battery. This would even make the car impossible to start since a capacitor cannot transfer DC current. Capacitors are used to store energy close to the power consumer by being connected across them (in parallel, not in line with). The next thing is the battery is an infinitive capacitor itself, so there is never a reason to put a capacitor near the battery.

    Also, never connect a large capacitor directly across the battery. This will generate a strong current spike in the capacitor when connected, which may explode. Even a small capacitor has huge explosion energy when it lift the hat.

  17. #42
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13,468
    Rep Points
    58.0
    Mentioned
    318 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by FR305 Click here to enlarge
    $#@! I am having the same problem. I replaced the coil on cyl 5 and it went away for a while but it came back after 2 months . I was going to buy the Okada Coils but it seems coils are not the problem. its driving me crazy to the point that I might take everything out an sell the car.
    its your injector

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Indianapolis
    Posts
    95
    Rep Points
    80.1
    Mentioned
    5 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    It will not work to put a capacitor in line with the battery. This would even make the car impossible to start since a capacitor cannot transfer DC current. Capacitors are used to store energy close to the power consumer by being connected across them (in parallel, not in line with). The next thing is the battery is an infinitive capacitor itself, so there is never a reason to put a capacitor near the battery.

    Also, never connect a large capacitor directly across the battery. This will generate a strong current spike in the capacitor when connected, which may explode. Even a small capacitor has huge explosion energy when it lift the hat.
    +1 on not connecting it accross the battery. Capacitors can cause some nasty explosions.

    You definately want to put the capacitor as far away from the source as possible.
    2008 BSM 335i coupe - JB4, BMS intake, meth : Weekend warrior.

  19. #44
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    236
    Rep Points
    21.0
    Mentioned
    13 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
    @defactom6 have read some of your recent posts, you seem very knowledgeable, look forward to your future posts and help you give.

    dzenno, after you try his theory, which should rule out voltage if the dme doesnt go crazy, is check your injector clips, the metal ones, that hold 2 injectors down. even a hairline crack will cause instability in injection angle. it fixed my weird gremlin and the car has been a monster since.
    Thanks man, just trying to put some otherwise useless knowledge to work Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
    Did 10 pulls...here's the logs...Cobb and JB+ on top...misfires are in logs where RPM doesn't pass 6500rpm...every log where RPM went up above 6500rpm didn't misfire...this is running about 18psi down to 15psi at redline...its running about 80/20 meth...

    One thing these logs tell for sure is that the battery is legit and a non-issue here...

    Also, very important to notice, all the runs done starting BELOW the vanos changeover event (4400rpm) failed with a misfire up top...all runs starting ABOVE the vanos changeover event "succeeded" and no misfire up top...is this pointing at possibly a bad crank or cam sensor that gets noisy up top??

    All runs are BACK TO BACK runs, one after another:
    What's interesting here is that a voltage change directly corresponds with high RPM misfire events with the exception of the first misfire in the last log. Maybe the car is that sensitive to volt changes at that RPM, or maybe it's symptomatic of something else. I don't know, but it may be worth inspecting other stuff now. Interestingly, I had high RPM misfire issues with my TEC-IIIR that were being caused by a wonky crank sensor...the only difference was that in my case, the miss seemed to change between a bunch of different cylinders. That said, it's a possibility. There seem to be a bunch of fellow enthusiasts in your area, if you want to go down this path, I would find someone with a car that works well and borrow the sensors off their car and see what happens. I'm still kinda curious about the drop in LPFP pressure though...if only swapping the DME from someone else's car could be done easily.


    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by R1000K3 Click here to enlarge
    It will not work to put a capacitor in line with the battery. This would even make the car impossible to start since a capacitor cannot transfer DC current. Capacitors are used to store energy close to the power consumer by being connected across them (in parallel, not in line with). The next thing is the battery is an infinitive capacitor itself, so there is never a reason to put a capacitor near the battery.

    Also, never connect a large capacitor directly across the battery. This will generate a strong current spike in the capacitor when connected, which may explode. Even a small capacitor has huge explosion energy when it lift the hat.
    Lol, sorry about the lazy wording, I do know that you can't run it serial, I did learn that the hard way once.
    Click here to enlarge

  20. #45
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Midwest USA
    Posts
    1,120
    Rep Points
    2,371.5
    Mentioned
    36 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    24


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    It's a shame your valve cover isn't still off otherwise I'd suggest checking out the valve adjustments (clearances). Ive seen some tightening clearances cause misfires such as this, sometimes even clearances in spec (but on the tightest side of spec). This may not show on compression tests either. Perhaps a valve or two on #5 and maybe #6 are getting too close for comfort. If you find tighter clearances exist, readjust to the middle of spec.

  21. #46
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    South Africa
    Posts
    1,324
    Rep Points
    1,955.5
    Mentioned
    37 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Dzenno, I think from your results it is related to valvetrain or Vanos. Have you tried to replicate the misfire in second gear? The problem is related to boost but do not think around the lines of boost but more around of rate of acceleration or rpm climb hence I say try second. If it doesn't do it above the vanos switch over it could be a vanos related problem such as not building enough oil pressure hence the cams not doing what they should at high rpm or quick enough for high rpm. If you could maybe log the cam timing you could see if this might be causing a issue. My 2 cents.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    13,468
    Rep Points
    58.0
    Mentioned
    318 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    0


    Yes Reputation No
    Can you post a boost log that correlates to one of those logs posted above?

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    6,682
    Rep Points
    3,335.6
    Mentioned
    225 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    34



    Yes Reputation No
    1st and 2nd never misfire...I've done a bunch of 2-3 logs, 2nd all the way to redline shifting to 3rd only to see the misfire up top...now that I think about it this recent shorter gap may actually be helping..after the 2-3 shift RPMs are above 5k rpm and the car used to misfire...now for a 3rd gear pull, after tapping plugs from 0.028" to 0.022" I have to go WOT at less than 4500rpm to misfire...maybe galling to 0.018" might make it go away entirely??
    Click here to enlarge

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    6,682
    Rep Points
    3,335.6
    Mentioned
    225 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    34



    Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
    Can you post a boost log that correlates to one of those logs posted above?
    It's there in the 7th log but that's what the DME sees...there's a jb+ on top at the min setting so about 2.75psi on top of what you see there as per BMS...
    Click here to enlarge

  25. #50
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    6,682
    Rep Points
    3,335.6
    Mentioned
    225 Post(s)
    Rep Power
    34



    Yes Reputation No
    Proper leakdown results are in and they're flawless...there is no leakage whatsoever...Ivo@columbus automotive actually got a really amazing leakdown tester which we used instead of improvising...i'll post a vid soon..as AMAZING as that is after 3 years and 60k miles of low/mid/high boost fun i still have very little idea what's causing the misfires...i do have to say that closing the gap 2 days ago has made the misfires less prominent and I now 100% have to go WOT lower in the RPMs than I had to before gapping...i've now regapped the cyl 5 plug to 0.018" from 0.028" stock and we'll see if that makes them go away...the gap is pretty tight...
    Click here to enlarge

Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •