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  1. #26
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    i expected something a little more custom/exotic mr jon, but she sounds ready for 1000whp!

  2. #27
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by black bnr32 Click here to enlarge
    i expected something a little more custom/exotic mr jon, but she sounds ready for 1000whp!
    I think the custom head stud work, o-ring, inconel valves, titanium bits, and DI intake are exotic enough lol

    If you want more exotic feel free to send funding!

    Craig - no port work. I don't see it as necessary. I think it hurts if not done 10000% correct.


  3. #28
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    pure power!

  4. #29
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    what happened to those ebay rods?

    any driveline changes?

  5. #30
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    What ebay rods?

    No real driveline mods, just 240mm flywheel and will need a 240mm clutch - haven't decided what to use yet


  6. #31
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    those aluminum (iirc) ones you won on ebay just for $#@!s and giggles

  7. #32
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    What ebay rods?

    No real driveline mods, just 240mm flywheel and will need a 240mm clutch - haven't decided what to use yet

    use sachs 765 that one will do for 850whp for sure !

  8. #33
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    Sachs 765 is just the pressure plate yeah? Says its rated 800 nm which is only 550 tq.


  9. #34
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    Pure Rape setup.
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  10. #35
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    What is this Sachs 765 pressure plate you type of?

    What model BMW or other does it come from?
    Click here to enlarge
    www
    milkt org

  11. #36
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    Sachs 765 is just the pressure plate yeah? Says its rated 800 nm which is only 550 tq.
    yeah that true, but i think it will do some more.

    im going to try it out with around 1000whp 1000wnm

    you could always go for an tilton but then you will be changing driveshafts and gearboxes Click here to enlarge

    if the 765 is to weak you could go for the heavier one.. but that one isent pushing type its pulling.

    and it does 1060nm with organic disc. same as in porsche gt3, a bit more expensive

  12. #37
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    this one isnt on any car from factory "im guessing"

    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by milkt Click here to enlarge
    What is this Sachs 765 pressure plate you type of?

    What model BMW or other does it come from?

  13. #38
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Surprised her tonight at an awesome fireworks display where we first met 6 years ago!

    Click here to enlarge

    Needless to say she couldn't be happier and I couldn't be either! So pumped.

    Awesome feeling.


  14. #39
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    Surprised her tonight at an awesome fireworks display where we first met 6 years ago!

    http://www.bimmerboost.com/images/im...IMG_1743-1.jpg

    Needless to say she couldn't be happier and I couldn't be either! So pumped.

    Awesome feeling.
    Is she building the motor?

    If not, what the hell does this have to do with the topic?

    Just messing man, congrats, but OT is a MUCH better place for this.

  15. #40
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    The ring is what is keeping me from assembling the motor Click here to enlarge


  16. #41
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    The ring is what is keeping me from assembling the motor Click here to enlarge
    Pawn it and replace it with a fake when she isn't looking.

  17. #42
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    lol i respect her too mcuh


  18. #43
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    Congrats!! I've been with my chick 6 years also.

  19. #44
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    get a tilton clutch

  20. #45
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    did you go to Jareds?

    lmao j/k...congrats tho

    tilton twin disc is the way to go. Its streetable! Even the triple was...but it helps to have the car idling at 1700rpm..

  21. #46
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    i miss the good old single days, i'm engaged from yesterday Click here to enlarge

  22. #47
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Soooooo E34 updates

    Not sure whats going on with my ECU whether I injured it or if a coil driver failed or something, but after a long time diagnosing, it has been determined that whenever my coil packs fire, there is noise in the system. At first I thought it was noise coming up the sensor path and into the ECU causing issues (ie., not shielded enough, etc.) However now I realized using the test function of the ECU, that with all of my sensors unplugged and test pulsing the coils (without engine running, crank and cam sensors unplugged all together) that there is noise coming OUT of the ECU over signal wires and +5V supply. I could look at the main display window and watch my MAP sensor go between a "failed state" (which it should, it was unplugged) and 100 kPA because noise was coming across the input wire (signal input from the MAP sensor, but it was unplugged). So that was wild.

    Anyway - talked to the guy @ DTA and have another one coming for a good price so blech. I was going to send mine in to have it looked at but my dream is to go to bimmerfest still... so I am trying to get my car going reliably by August. So we'll see. Part of me hopes it was just an ECU issue/failure, but the other part doesn't. If it wasn't, then it could be something on my car still doing it. If it was, then what caused it?

    I had the "old" DTA box - the DTA S80 Pro but the full size box. It was quite large. The new one is much smaller - maybe half the size of the full sizer? Maybe in addition to the form factor change they changed components inside? Who knows. Maybe I j ust had a fluke. Or, maybe the problem will still be there (god I hope not). I ordered new 44-pin Tyco connectors. I am going to setup a battery and single coil pack (because that is all it took, ANY of 6 coils plugged in to generate the noise...) and set up a bench tester. I am going to test the bench and check for abnormalities on the bench before I plug the "new" ECU into the car just to confirm it was in fact an ECU issue and not my car. Though, I am confident in my wiring and can't imagine I did something wrong, let alone did it wrong for 2 years and then had it "go bad". A ground or something going out because of corrosion is one thing, but to rewire the entire car and have it do the same thing? Points to an ECU issue we've determined. Especially with every sensor unplugged. We'll see I guess.


    That said I got some parts in from ECS Tuning for the new motor.

    Click here to enlarge

    Actually its quite a lot of parts. Probably 100 bolts, nuts, parts, etc. Everything from oil pan bolts to cam sprocket bolts, etc. I just don't have the patience trying to find the right bolts after taking stuff apart and would rather use new anyway. Its also easy because I go and make a chart of the PN# and the purpose of the bolt so I don't have to guess while assembling things. Yay.

    Also got the Besian Systems VANOS repair (2 kits) in. So thats nice. Got all the supertech valves, etc. There's probably more schtuff that I am forgetting.

    Today I ran up to Jays and picked up my old engine block from my original 2.5L - it is funny. I am reuniting the car with its original block, hurray! So that is what is needed to drop off to Don. I also bought a valve cover and timing cover off ebay (ugh the prices are silly) and decided to blast the timing cover clean today. The soda blaster was being tempermental but it did its thing. I was going to leave it raw and Jay had to bounce out, but realizing I had nothing else to do today and remembering how hard it is to wipe oily finger prints off of raw aluminum... I decided to do this:

    Click here to enlarge

    I used a razor blade to clear the cast BMW logo - was bored and was waiting for the part to cool so what the heck.

    I also soda then bead blasted a power steering pump for my moms car. I really want to put P/S on her car, but the P/S pump I got off ebay was grimy and made me sad bolting it up to the clean motor I built for her car. So...

    Click here to enlarge

    Not perfect but I didn't want to go nuts. Going to spray bomb the pulley off the pump. I learned to not take the brackets off the pump because the halves fall apart and the vanes all shoot out. So, that is what it is.

    So I am hoping to have the new ECU next week. Oh, I had ordered like S52 everything for the timing chains and guides and tensioners but forget that the bearing bolt thing that holds the tensioner guide to the block on the S52 doesn't use a circlip and so I had to order a S52 bearing bolt so I threw a bunch of other stuff in that order too. Just little stuff that doesn't really need to be replaced but I am anal (like the nuts on top of the cam caps, new exhaust manifold studs from the E90 cars, new copper exhaust nuts).

    Oh - for the exhaust studs - I know they are 39mm vs 42mm and that it doesn't make much difference but I saw some people whining about how the nut doesn't have full thread engagement (its like 7/8 of the nut threaded, but some people want to see it out further. So, I ordered stainless steel ball bearings from McMaster to stick inside the the stud holes. Its kind of a guess as to how many to use, so I ordered 1/8". Idea being that you drop a ball bearing in the stud hole so that the stud bottomed but will also stick out a smidge for full nut engagement. We'll see.


  23. #48
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    ^ Well detailed and documented.

  24. #49
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    Thanks

    Just got a call - UPS showed up wanting $183.10 lol.... for customs fees. Ugh.

    That said, I guess that means my new ECU is here.


  25. #50
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    1 out of 1 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Click here to enlarge

    Waiting a 2nd set of connectors so I can bench test the original ECU (larger one). Same ECU, they redesigned the hardware to reduce size!

    Hoping the issue shows its fact on a bench test so I have confidence in plugging the new one in without worrying about some sort of minute wiring issue.


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