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  1. #1
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No

    Operation Destruction: Clean up

    I would post the documentation behind the build of my car, but theres so so so much to post that it wouldn't be practical. So, I will just tell of the latest ordeal.

    A couple months ago I had trouble starting my car one day leaving work. Just dealt with it, but got nervous I was going to get stuck somewhere. So, I looked into the issue. Turns out either my hall effect crank sensor was on its way out, or there was electrical noise that was keeping it from putting out a proper signal.

    A few weeks - month ago:

    Click here to enlarge

    Saturday afternoon:

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    Click here to enlarge

    I decided rather than spend hours and hours rewiring and trying to find where the noise is coming from (its from the coil packs, thats for sure, but why, and where, and how is another matter...) I decided to rip out the wiring. I had the 88-pin motronic connector still in the car with 90% of its wires unused but taking up space in the ECU box. I wanted to clean up the wiring on my install (I had done a decent job originally but over time of adding/removing wires it gets messy). So, chaos began.

    Click here to enlarge

    Going to junction most of those wires up in the tray above the motor into a single cable. This install will be CLEAN.

    Get this junk flap out of here!

    Click here to enlarge

    Packed up for the evening. We will meet tomorrow.

    Click here to enlarge

    I should have raised the coil overs up or put blocks under the front. My back and knees are killing me.

    Anyway... tons of crap today though the end result may not look like much.

    As you can see in the pic below, the chassis/body harness is all wrapped up nicely. I was proud of how clean I got the auxillary water pump (thing with 3 brass nuts on it) but then I realized... I don't need this thing!

    Click here to enlarge

    I deleted my HVAC unit and so my heater valves default to "open". That's pleasant in the summer! Even though the blower isn't running, heat wafts out of the vents. Charming. So...

    Click here to enlarge

    Out it came!

    Then I realized, I hate where my HFS-6 box sits. Hmmm... maybe I could make a simple bracket and move it to where the auxillary water pump once lived.. yeah!

    Click here to enlarge

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    Little better.

    Made a final pass through the engine harness after having removed about 20 - 30 wires.

    I was, at the time, cutting off the wires not needed and then heatshrinking them and pinching the heatshrink shut with pliers. But, it made me nervous with grounds, +12v constant, switched +12v, etc. Then i realize - I can pop the vinal caps off of the junctions BMW put in, whatever wire isn't used will be loose-ended, pull it thru the harness to the junction, pull the vinyl cap off, cut it up inside the crimp, put cap back on!

    So it went from this

    Click here to enlarge

    To this

    Click here to enlarge

    Pretty rapidly.

    Some of my sensor wiring had been left over from MS. Barf. So I thought about redoing like the coolant sensor and such (was using GM, but...) but then realized it'd be easier to just use the BMW stuff and reconfig in DTA. So here you will see the coolant sensor hooked up. For sensors I am not using of BMW's I removed the wire and connector. So, in the below picture you won't find either crank shaft or camshaft stock connector, no idle connector, no purge valve connector, no maf, no O2, etc. Also you can see the heater core bypass plug from AKG and the block off plate on the back of the head.

    Click here to enlarge

    I am going to run my hall sensor wiring through the stock conduit tomorrow. Also, for sensors I am using but not of BMW originality, I am repinning the stock wire for the new connector. IE., I use a GM open-element air temp sensor. I am using the BMW stock wiring with a new connector on the end. Ultimate stealth factor. The picture above looks messy still but trust me the end result is cleaaaaaan.

    The end of the day:

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    You might notice a couple wires up by the ECU box - those are going to be pins-pulled and put into the stock conduit over there. One is the boost contorl valve, one is the oil temp sensor from the oil pan and two or three wires are for EGT.


    So, compare this:

    Click here to enlarge

    To this one:

    Click here to enlarge

    I wish I had a "before" ecu box shot. Most of the wire redux is in the harnesses over the engine/firewall. But a ton under the intake and near the brake booster as well.

    Here's about 2/3 of the wiring removed

    Click here to enlarge

    The rest had already made it into the trash and I wasn't going picking

    Click here to enlarge

    Now I am just waiting on some cables from McMaster (going with shielded cable for the coil pack signals vs individual wires, cable for injectors instead of individual wires, and a cable for my switch panel into the ECU box with 12 conductors for expansion) and some DTM connectors for switch panel.


  2. #2
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    I'm just going to go with wow.
    Click here to enlarge

  3. #3
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SSDD Click here to enlarge
    I'm just going to go with wow.
    Yes I agree. Some have attacked his ways, but they lack understanding.
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  4. #4
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    So... did you find the "noise"
    or
    did you RID the "noise"?

    Clean, sure,
    but resolve the symptom yet?
    Click here to enlarge
    www
    milkt org

  5. #5
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by milkt Click here to enlarge
    So... did you find the "noise"
    or
    did you RID the "noise"?

    Clean, sure,
    but resolve the symptom yet?

    Good question
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  6. #6
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    I just want to understand this, you did this all because of a noise from the coil packs?

  7. #7
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    I just want to understand this, you did this all because of a noise from the coil packs?
    Yup. I spent about a week trying to trace the source of noise. Probably a bad ground. Hopefully.

    Proposed new layout.

    Click here to enlarge


  8. #8
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by milkt Click here to enlarge
    So... did you find the "noise"
    or
    did you RID the "noise"?

    Clean, sure,
    but resolve the symptom yet?
    Won't know until shes all hooked up again.


  9. #9
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    Yup. I spent about a week trying to trace the source of noise. Probably a bad ground. Hopefully.
    Exactly how bad was this noise?

  10. #10
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Exactly how bad was this noise?
    If I quantified it, would you know the severity? Not sure if you're well versed in it.

    Basically, with the wiring hooked up as intended, I was receiving false triggers on the hall sensor. That, to me, is no acceptable. The fix was to ground my hall sensor to the chassis and no noise would come across the output, however, the noise still existed on the "sensor ground" - which means every sensor listed in the above diagram was experiencing the same noise. However, some inputs are buffered and the noise won't show, but it's there. So, the noise was somehow coming across the sensor ground wire which is what all my sensors are hooked up to... except there was a ton of stock BMW unused wire chilling too... thus the removal.


  11. #11
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    If I quantified it, would you know the severity? Not sure if you're well versed in it.
    Well you are rewiring so obviously it was an issue but it's somewhat of a subjective question therefore requiring a subjective answer.

    If it was causing sensors to pick up false triggers then I definitely understand why you are doing this.

  12. #12
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    Yeah I mean, it was most likely a grounding issue - the car ran for 2 years just fine. Made gobs of power. Just the noise issue irritated me.


  13. #13
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    noise can be annoying, and I understand the reason for the fix. power skills
    Click here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

  14. #14
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    Electrical noise is sometimes a job I loathe to do. You can search and search and never find it.

  15. #15
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe Click here to enlarge
    Electrical noise is sometimes a job I loathe to do. You can search and search and never find it.
    Seems he is pretty determined and has a plan of attack, we will see.

  16. #16
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe Click here to enlarge
    Electrical noise is sometimes a job I loathe to do. You can search and search and never find it.
    Yeah it's one of those things. The industry I work in, I have access to people who special only in noise prevention. But, with the insight of people who know what they're doing I am taking advice along the way. Here is what I ended up with for the coil/injector harness:

    Yeah fire is scary - I'll give adam credit for that one


    Meet my snake!

    Click here to enlarge

    Click here to enlarge

    One side done. This is the harness that carries the coils and injectors. Note that there are two fatter cables carrying signals. The one with the looped shield is the coils. I de-braided the shielding and made a "wire" by sliding heat shrink over it. BMW shields the cable up at the head. So, if the shield at the head does not work well for whatever reason, I already have the shielding at the ECU end read to tie in. Of course I slipped on some fire retardant/abrasion sleeving on the main cables there. The individual wires will be wrapped the same way. I need to add another wire for the boost controller and then slide them in some braid as well.


  17. #17
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
    Seems he is pretty determined and has a plan of attack, we will see.

    Yeah I wasnt saying he cant do it, Im just saying sometimes on some cars it ends up at a brick wall, and youve isolated everything and still cant figure it out.

  18. #18
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by 5mall5nail5 Click here to enlarge
    Yeah it's one of those things. The industry I work in, I have access to people who special only in noise prevention. But, with the insight of people who know what they're doing I am taking advice along the way. Here is what I ended up with for the coil/injector harness:

    Yeah fire is scary - I'll give adam credit for that one


    Meet my snake!

    http://jonkensy.com/gallery/albums/u...1/IMG_0427.jpg

    http://jonkensy.com/gallery/albums/u...G_0281%7E1.jpg

    One side done. This is the harness that carries the coils and injectors. Note that there are two fatter cables carrying signals. The one with the looped shield is the coils. I de-braided the shielding and made a "wire" by sliding heat shrink over it. BMW shields the cable up at the head. So, if the shield at the head does not work well for whatever reason, I already have the shielding at the ECU end read to tie in. Of course I slipped on some fire retardant/abrasion sleeving on the main cables there. The individual wires will be wrapped the same way. I need to add another wire for the boost controller and then slide them in some braid as well.
    Your cables look like what I used to make when I was at Rudtners. I always spent too much time making them, but when the car ever had a problem not starting or doing this or that oddly, it was usually my bosses error in the tuning and not my handiwork Click here to enlarge

  19. #19
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    Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Matt@Camber-Toe Click here to enlarge
    Yeah I wasnt saying he cant do it, Im just saying sometimes on some cars it ends up at a brick wall, and youve isolated everything and still cant figure it out.
    I understand and this is far more complicated than any wiring stuff I have attempted. I have a classic car that I have been working on the wiring on just to the rear tailights and still can't figure out why they won't turn on yet work fine when the brake pedal is pressed. I know, simple compared to this but I've been trying long enough that I can understand frustration with wiring.

  20. #20
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    2 out of 2 members liked this post. Yes Reputation No
    Little updates - spent an hour or two outside after work. Ran the engine harness(es) through the firewall and into the over-engine tray.

    Click here to enlarge

    Clean!

    Now I am pinning up this awesome DTM connector for my switch panel:

    Click here to enlarge


  21. #21
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    very nice work!

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