in the words of the late great Dave Chappelle
haters gonna hate playas gonna play
i don't really want none of the above
i want to piss on you. pee pee poo poo piss on you. yes I do
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Lol, Turkeyfucker is neg repping all of us. It's cool, because I positive rep random people in all of his threads just so I can neg rep him again.
God I feel like the little kid watching his parents fight. What happened to this thread? Please dont fight, I'll be good..... Lol.....
Still no answer to my last post, sorry to interupt.... :-)
Chances are it'll be a lot easier to find a used JB4 then a JB+ anyhow.
But back to your question, if you do get a code with the JB+, it would most likely be a boost leak code (30FF). (Added boost = more pressure = more chances for leaks).
Since you only have the JB+ you won't be able to see the actual code, but your car would be placed in a "limp mode." This will cause your car to not boost and be slow. You can restart your car to get rid of the "limp mode," but you will need to find where you're boost leak is to fix the problem. The code will be stored in your car until it is cleared, but will not put your car back into "limp mode" unless your car detects the boost leak again.
If you plan on having the dealer fix the boost leak, you will want to remove the JB+ to avoid any complications. However, be warned that the car stores other "ghost codes." These are codes that we cannot see, but that the dealer can. I believe one of the codes is an "over boost code" which will let the dealer know that your car was boosting higher than the stock tune allows.
Thank you nafoo, and I think Benzy (and others here) have convinced me to go with the JB4. Again, this is a great site, glad I was turned onto it.
Now, I thik I should also get the catch can from burger tune too.
Found a used JB4 in Montreal, sent funds via paypal this afternoon, hope to have her soon!