Finished up a 745 cylinder head. It came from another shop, and was FUBAR'ed up. We then had to fix a rough running condition after starting it up. The other bank was mis-timed (the side we didn't touch). Then random misfires. Turns out the oring on cyl 2 injector was ripped, causing misfire on cyl 3. Then it wouldn't stop smoking like a train out the tail pipe. The cracked head had filled the exhaust with coolant- pull and flush the exhaust out with water.... then random misfires.... crank case vent system diaphragms were blown.... SHEESH! Couldn't catch a break there!
diag'ed a clicking noise on an 335.... seems the power steering pulley bolts have decided to part ways with us... need to pull the pump to repair the threads and replace the pulley.
" i gotta agree with sticky here, cause when you order your own brand new bmw, you have to talk to someone, on the phone or irl. if you want the part installed on your car, you tell them what you want and the car being ordered will have the part installed on it and you take delivery of the final product. the problem is not everyone knows you can do that and bmw doesn't make it public. "
" Level 10 works wonders guys, i have a couple customers running around with Just LEvel 10 VB and TQ. and holds up great. before most would have the trans popping into neutral or when launching at the strip Cog symbol popping up. level 10 seems like the midrange upgrade. but i don't really see it as the full kill mode upgrade.
maybe if L10 shims the crap out of the VB, but then it might shift so hard it will break the sprags ect. but I'm gonna see how this auto i have holds up with the stage 3's before i go MT. "
Awesome numbers! Thats 2.7 seems to be a pretty inefficient engine if he is maxing 2867's at 714, we made 725 with 2863's and we felt they had more in them. Pretty sure a set of 2867's should net you 800WHP+ on the N54 if the engine can handle it. Very surprised they are spooling so late, he must have really big primaries on it.
The 2.7 can use a bit of headwork to open it up. Also an increase in displacement. "
Spec 3+, sure the engagement is in a slighty different spot and the pedal is slightly heavier, but the clutch is a breeze to drive. The south bend I had in the stage 3 car was much tougher to drive. This clutch honestly is so nice.
Oh, you do have a 3+, I was thinking you had a 2+ for some reason. Well if I be damned, that's great news then, since MT swap is my backup plan if my rebuild doesn't work out. "
What clutch are you using? I have never seen that statement to be true, how can a clutch drive the same as stock but handle 3 times the power? Engagement point, firmness, travel, would all change. Just depends on how you drive though, if you have a heavy left foot I could see the difference in feel being minimized.
Spec 3+, sure the engagement is in a slighty different spot and the pedal is slightly heavier, but the clutch is a breeze to drive. The south bend I had in the stage 3 car was much tougher to drive. This clutch honestly is so nice. "
I'm driving with a clutch that can hold 700 WTQ+ and I just got out of it and drove a car with a stock clutch and the difference was only very slight and in daily driving I do not even notice the clutch, so that point is moot. For road racing, DCT or MT are the kings of the kill, for Drag racing a properly set up AT will take all comers every time. The people that need this upgrade are the ones drag racing.
What clutch are you using? I have never seen that statement to be true, how can a clutch drive the same as stock but handle 3 times the power? Engagement point, firmness, travel, would all change. Just depends on how you drive though, if you have a heavy left foot I could see the difference in feel being minimized. "