• 335/N54 Rob Beck turbo upgrade tuning update with BMS JB4 and dual CM10 meth nozzles - 500 whp

      I wanted to get some good info with the JB4, and being the upstanding legal/moral citizen I am, wanting to keep it clean on the streets the Dyno is the best option. What im going to do is just post the mods/condistions ect, and the post each dyno with the log to match. Ill leave the questions up to you guys.

      Temps 44* outside/ 65* inside shop
      Mods- RB Turbo's,JB4,FBO,meth
      Fuel-Straight ms109 , 95/5% meth/water
      Dyno Location- Radical Racing-Atco Nj


      Things changed since last dyno session
      - replaced single m10 meth nozzle with 2 CM10 meth nozzles
      - replaced Miltek catless exhaust for Vanguard catless exhaust

      Highest run vs. TODAYS baseline- as it should be. Dyno baselines from before are rarely accurate, or at least not as accurate as should be. Now you know what i gain over stock tuining with every available mod*



      Baseline, no meth-




      402-Default Map 2-14/15PSI




      414-Map 2 new F/W-15PSI




      457-MAP6-17PSI




      471-MAP 6-18 PSI




      490-MAP 6-20PSI




      491-MAP 6-20PSI




      492-MAP 6-20PSI




      500-MAP 6-20PSI






      JB4 Vs JB3 Power Delivery Comparo- its as close as i could find to peak HP #'s
      red is JB4/Today-Blue is JB3 (last July)




      Well.. there you have it Keep in mind the baseline is fully modded, with RB's and straight MS109 fuel.

      i think this is a good viewpoint to see where we are currently limited.

      More technical people than i can discuss what was good, what was bad (if anything, besides AFR's obviously) and where we can go from here



      *PAW Motorsports- If you have a set of Heads and/or a Fueling solution, I am more than willing to try it out!
      This article was originally published in forum thread: RB Turbo and JB4 Dyno Tuning Today! started by LostMarine View original post
      Comments 33 Comments
      1. Terry@BMS's Avatar
        Terry@BMS -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
        So this is something that could be initiated from the JB4 itself? As in the JB4 could have the ability to flash and raise the redline?
        Right. But it would take months of development and isn't on our radar right now. Just a theoretical option if we needed for cam tuning, etc.
      1. Sticky's Avatar
        Sticky -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Terry@BMS Click here to enlarge
        Right. But it would take months of development and isn't on our radar right now. Just a theoretical option if we needed for cam tuning, etc.
        I understand, never bad to ponder potential or what may be ahead.
      1. 654's Avatar
        654 -
        No need to increase redline with stock internals. The intake valves and ports will not support the revs and the power would drop drastically after 7000. Also the piston speeds due to the short rods get quite high. Redline should be increased when having longer and lighterrods, lighter pistons and upgraded head.
      1. 654's Avatar
        654 -
        Oddjob, did you dyno your car last fall as intended? It would be nice to compare.
      1. carcars's Avatar
        carcars -
        Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
      1. DBFIU's Avatar
        DBFIU -
        Agreed no need to increase redline, it's already asthmatic at 7000 RPM. I think even with aftermarket head, cams and valves youll want to stop at 7000 RPM anyway. Piston speed is also a problem as 654 mentioned.
      1. Eleventeen's Avatar
        Eleventeen -
        Until we have more fueling in place, I don't think we really know that for sure. The stock turbos DEFINITELY can't keep up at 7000 rpm's, but the RB or other turbo upgrades might build decent power that high if supported by the proper fueling. We need to get the supporting mods in place before we can determine what the engine itself is actually capable of. Right now I think the problem with raising the rev limiter (on an auto tranny such as LM's car) is that you would also need to raise the shift points, or the higher rev limiter is pointless.
      1. Yukohama's Avatar
        Yukohama -
        wow cars making great numbers!
      1. oddjob2021's Avatar
        oddjob2021 -
        i havnt dyno'd yet, but maybe i will soon. it wont be on racegas any time soon though so not much to compare to unless you go back with your jb4 settings for pumpgas+meth. right now im running about 17psi and it runs well and consistent, no issues at all, when we go above that psi on pump it seems to break up at 6xxx rpm, but it's at least always the same rpm lol. i think its a spark issue, or a coil issue, when i changed the whole injection and spark system the new coils maybe are not up to snuff with the older coils, who knows. after the whole swap, on the first few test runs we were hitting 20psi, and had to lower some settings, we got it down to 18-19 psi and it ran very well for a few runs, we did one more test and see if it would break up and you guessed it, it did. and after that it kept doing it until we lowered it to 17psi. i wanted to test the problem and i was going to swap coils with asr's 1, he hasnt gotten back to me though so i might take a ride over there and catch up sooner than later. it could also be possible the gas is the issue, and maybe racegas would fix the issue, but im liking the way the car performs on pump+meth at 17psi. its a helluva torque monster and the pull doesnt stop to redline, ive taken it to 7k many times on some highway runs, if i lost 50+ or so whp like some of LM's dyno runs show from his 6000 peak to 6800 i would for sure notice it, but maybe thats a manual vs auto thing. i raced some good competition but no video yet. also something to mention is my car will not be a dyno queen whatsoever... my aftermarket intake box makes it so i breathe through the scoops/stock intake tract, without like a carpet dryer or substantial fan the car will be starving for air up top. the intake tract and box is made for a wall of rushing air not some dinky fan trying to replicate road speed. i could remove the box temporarily for the dyno and put on filters but its kind of a hassle. ive just been waiting to hear back from abid and get this stuff sorted before i dyno. remember, im more of a road racer than drag fan, im usually moving.

        and LM, my guess is the reason they 'stopped' the dyno is you were losing power at that point, no reason to keep going when power is not sustained or climbing. but you're right, it seems to stop at 6800. but look carefully at your runs, there is a 17psi and 18psi run that hold power to your stop point better than your 20 psi runs. so yeah, like terry said, just shift a bit early and stay in your power band Click here to enlarge
      1. mazdaspeed6's Avatar
        mazdaspeed6 -
        congrats buddy! great job terry and rob!
      1. LostMarine's Avatar
        LostMarine -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
        i havnt dyno'd yet, but maybe i will soon. it wont be on racegas any time soon though so not much to compare to unless you go back with your jb4 settings for pumpgas+meth. right now im running about 17psi and it runs well and consistent, no issues at all, when we go above that psi on pump it seems to break up at 6xxx rpm, but it's at least always the same rpm lol. i think its a spark issue, or a coil issue, when i changed the whole injection and spark system the new coils maybe are not up to snuff with the older coils, who knows. after the whole swap, on the first few test runs we were hitting 20psi, and had to lower some settings, we got it down to 18-19 psi and it ran very well for a few runs, we did one more test and see if it would break up and you guessed it, it did. and after that it kept doing it until we lowered it to 17psi. i wanted to test the problem and i was going to swap coils with asr's 1, he hasnt gotten back to me though so i might take a ride over there and catch up sooner than later. it could also be possible the gas is the issue, and maybe racegas would fix the issue, but im liking the way the car performs on pump+meth at 17psi. its a helluva torque monster and the pull doesnt stop to redline, ive taken it to 7k many times on some highway runs, if i lost 50+ or so whp like some of LM's dyno runs show from his 6000 peak to 6800 i would for sure notice it, but maybe thats a manual vs auto thing. i raced some good competition but no video yet. also something to mention is my car will not be a dyno queen whatsoever... my aftermarket intake box makes it so i breathe through the scoops/stock intake tract, without like a carpet dryer or substantial fan the car will be starving for air up top. the intake tract and box is made for a wall of rushing air not some dinky fan trying to replicate road speed. i could remove the box temporarily for the dyno and put on filters but its kind of a hassle. ive just been waiting to hear back from abid and get this stuff sorted before i dyno. remember, im more of a road racer than drag fan, im usually moving.

        and LM, my guess is the reason they 'stopped' the dyno is you were losing power at that point, no reason to keep going when power is not sustained or climbing. but you're right, it seems to stop at 6800. but look carefully at your runs, there is a 17psi and 18psi run that hold power to your stop point better than your 20 psi runs. so yeah, like terry said, just shift a bit early and stay in your power band Click here to enlarge
        I think your confusing how we purposly tapered the boost, co/mpared to a sustained run
      1. 654's Avatar
        654 -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by oddjob2021 Click here to enlarge
        i havnt dyno'd yet, but maybe i will soon. it wont be on racegas any time soon though so not much to compare to unless you go back with your jb4 settings for pumpgas+meth. right now im running about 17psi and it runs well and consistent, no issues at all, when we go above that psi on pump it seems to break up at 6xxx rpm, but it's at least always the same rpm lol. i think its a spark issue, or a coil issue, when i changed the whole injection and spark system the new coils maybe are not up to snuff with the older coils, who knows. after the whole swap, on the first few test runs we were hitting 20psi, and had to lower some settings, we got it down to 18-19 psi and it ran very well for a few runs, we did one more test and see if it would break up and you guessed it, it did. and after that it kept doing it until we lowered it to 17psi. i wanted to test the problem and i was going to swap coils with asr's 1, he hasnt gotten back to me though so i might take a ride over there and catch up sooner than later. it could also be possible the gas is the issue, and maybe racegas would fix the issue, but im liking the way the car performs on pump+meth at 17psi. its a helluva torque monster and the pull doesnt stop to redline, ive taken it to 7k many times on some highway runs, if i lost 50+ or so whp like some of LM's dyno runs show from his 6000 peak to 6800 i would for sure notice it, but maybe thats a manual vs auto thing. i raced some good competition but no video yet. also something to mention is my car will not be a dyno queen whatsoever... my aftermarket intake box makes it so i breathe through the scoops/stock intake tract, without like a carpet dryer or substantial fan the car will be starving for air up top. the intake tract and box is made for a wall of rushing air not some dinky fan trying to replicate road speed. i could remove the box temporarily for the dyno and put on filters but its kind of a hassle. ive just been waiting to hear back from abid and get this stuff sorted before i dyno. remember, im more of a road racer than drag fan, im usually moving.

        and LM, my guess is the reason they 'stopped' the dyno is you were losing power at that point, no reason to keep going when power is not sustained or climbing. but you're right, it seems to stop at 6800. but look carefully at your runs, there is a 17psi and 18psi run that hold power to your stop point better than your 20 psi runs. so yeah, like terry said, just shift a bit early and stay in your power band Click here to enlarge
        Any dyno would be great for finding out how the car performs after the turbo upgrade. You have the dynos from before and not much else has changed in your mods other than turbos, so that's why it is so interesting as the comparison is straight forward.
      1. LostMarine's Avatar
        LostMarine -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by LostMarine Click here to enlarge
        I think your confusing how we purposely tapered the boost, compared to a sustained run
        yes, after confirmation, running too lean and going for a sustained boost run were not possible/wise that day