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    • PRO TUNING FREAKS Cobb AP tuned upgraded turbo and ported cylinder head N54 E90 335i hits 553 wheel horsepower 631 wheel torque on pump gas and meth - N54 Twin Turbo World Record

      Last night I hit the dyno to see what the car can do with the new ported N54 cylinder head, RB turbos, 3.5bar TMAP sensor from the new BMW N20 four-cylinder motor, FBO (catless), pump 94 octane and meth, stock turbo inlet pipes. Key thing here, this is with a tune that sees ZERO timing corrections everywhere on all cylinders and timing that is set right at MBT for this level of boost and this car's given octane. I've run the car on the street with this exact setup this morning, number of pulls, it's pretty ridiculous.

      553WHP/631WTQ - PUMP GAS (94 Octane) + METH


      In terms of the tune, it was running more than 22.5psi in midrange, 19.7psi peak at 6k rpm, 17.5-18psi at redline. Logs of actual boost in midrange aren't available as I found out that ATP's datalogging needs to be updated to accomodate the 3.5bar scaling. I was going off my p3 gauge for midrange boost when pushed past the 22.5psi datalogging limit. I don't recommend this to anyone before ATP is updated for 3.5bar datalog scaling, it just had to be done last night and I decided to push on as I get to do what I feel is best for my car LOL and that's make some power

      No leanouts or fuel issues. LTFTs goes down to zero during the pull, STFTs trend to high negative 20s with meth. The car was running close to if not 100% meth, three 1.0mm nozzles, two of them in the FMIC outlet silicone coupler and another up in the ER charge pipe past the elbow.

      I'll be fine tuning things over the coming days but to be perfectly honest and blunt, last night was about turning things UP and NOT fine tuning. It was to find MBT and push boost as far as it can go while limiting wastegate duty cycle to about 73-74% everywhere especially past 6k rpm. It was also to experiment with various VANOS changes. I experimented with higher wg duty cycles before and RBs didn't like it. It also introduces too much backpressure into the system even fully catless that the car doesn't like it.

      So, is there more power left here. We'll see when the intake pipes are swapped for something better flowing. @George Smooth reported +19whp at his high altitude in South Africa so possibly another 20 in there without any changes. Then there's mixing race gas or E85 into it to see if there's anything there in terms of additional power through more timing. All out its very possible this will be a 575-585whp setup once all is said and done, dare I say 600 LOL

      Other runs from last night:


      By the way, on Smoothing of zero the car made 555WHP Nice even number easy to remember

      When that torque hits it feels like a big turbo came on!! Swoooooosh!

      Specs:

      PTF Cobb AP Tune
      PTF Ported Cylinder Head w/ +1mm enlarged Super Alloy Exhaust Valves
      RB Turbos
      3.5bar BMW N20 engine TMAP sensor
      Aquamist HFS-4 Methanol Injection (100% meth, three 1.0mm nozzles, Howerton 2.2gal trunk mounted tank)
      AR Catless Downpipes
      HKS Legamax Exhaust
      Custom Mr.5-like intake
      KL Racing (aka Big Tom) FMIC
      ER 3" post FMIC piping (up pipe, charge Pipe) + Tial BOV
      Okada Plasma Ignition Coils + OEM Plugs
      HPF Stage 2 Feramic Clutch + OEM Dual Mass Flywheel
      DSS 1000hp rear axles
      Rear m3 suspension bits
      2.56 Quaife LSD
      17x9 APEX ARC-8 wheels
      Nitto 555 245/45/17 front, Nitto 555R 275/40/17 rear tires
      Vorsteiner Carbon Fiber hood (single sided, vented)
      Carbon Fiber trunk
      Sunoco (Petro Canada) pump 94 Octane




      EDIT: Some people asked to see the conditions from the dyno, STD correction factor as well as the same run but in SAE. Here they are below:

      CONDITIONS AND STD CORRECTION (i.e. STD resulted in 1.00 correction, so no correction basically):



      SAE numbers for the same run (SAE correction was 0.97, so 3% lower than STD):


      This article was originally published in forum thread: PTF UPDATE: 553WHP 631WTQ - N54 TwinTurbo World Record started by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks View original post
      Comments 217 Comments
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Just to address some comments from the other forum:

        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by SIKH335 Click here to enlarge
        I was actually looking into doing the ported head on my car and Vac quoted a 30-35 hour book time to swap their ported head into my car. Not really a personal issue, as it pertains to everyone thinking of this mod. If PTF has some info they could share with us all on the time it should take a shop to pull the factory head and install the VAC stage 3 head which lists on their site for $2599 that would be nice.
        First off, not sure if you're reading this but in any case a very welcome change of tone, appreciated. Hopefully we can talk like normal adults going forward.

        For the cylinder head I wouldn't suggest doing it on its own. It is best to do it when the turbos are being swapped as they consume the biggest chunk of work. To swap the head in and out, once the turbos are off, is only maybe 3-4 hours tops for someone who knows what they're doing. The shop will need an N54 cam timing/locking tool set (available on ebay for about 350-400) and a tool to remove the crankshaft hub so that the timing chain can be pulled. That's it in terms of special tools with respect to the shop.

        30 hours is definitely way too much even if you do it all in one shot. Most shops with experience do turbos in about 7 hours on average (have heard of even shy of 6 hours in some cases). Those inexperienced take about 10-12 on the first try. So absolute worst case if you're doing it from scratch with the turbos still on the car it'd take anywhere from 10 hours (experienced shop) to 16 hours (inexperienced but good shop) in labour, so basically half to a third of what BMW's books quote.


        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
        Yeah but his is mostly stock. He only has custom valves and guides. A true port/polish with head studs, valve springs, etc is the way to go. If vac offers this for $2500+labor that's a pretty good deal.
        Not sure what you mean by this statement. To fit custom exhaust valves you have to cut new seats and a 5 angle valve job was done as well. The head has been ported on a flow bench putting in about 60-80 hours of work into it. VAC head did not include custom valves which just on their own (valves and retainers only) are $1500. They're made of top shelf material, even better than Inconel. VAC, or anyone, will not offer this for anything close to 2.5k don't kid yourself Click here to enlarge Once someone else has a head and shows some results as well I suggest we discuss those options then. Keep in mind I wanted the PAW head as well as the VAC head and no one could provide me with results. VAC's head wasn't finished and was delayed due to other priorities they had at the time (S65 stuff). Thus I went my own local/custom route and got 'er done!

        I really hope someone else also pushes their RBs with a 3.5bar on a safe tune and sees what they can do on the stock head with it.
      1. bigdnno98's Avatar
        bigdnno98 -
        I thought you had said a while back the only thing done to the head was new exhaust valves and seats. I did not recall a port job. I think valve springs and head studs are more of a preventative maintenance deal. As the boost gets higher either the valve springs or the head studs or both are going to give. These are going to be necessary upgrades on any high HP car going forward just like clutches, driveshafts and axels Click here to enlarge
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by bigdnno98 Click here to enlarge
        I thought you had said a while back the only thing done to the head was new exhaust valves and seats. I did not recall a port job. I think valve springs and head studs are more of a preventative maintenance deal. As the boost gets higher either the valve springs or the head studs or both are going to give. These are going to be necessary upgrades on any high HP car going forward just like clutches, driveshafts and axels Click here to enlarge
        Valve springs don't need to be changed on this head at least not yet. No one is revving to 9000rpm any time soon and if we were then the intake valves would also be changed. Everything about this head was assessed and done by a shop building top fuel race motors putting out 2500HP. They've been in that the last 30 years! They did tell me to get new head studs from ARP but I didn't know how much time I had and ARP takes a few weeks to make custom ones. Had I known it was going to be close to an 8 months wait and not 4 weeks like I was told initially then custom ARP head studs/bolts would've been done. However, the head isn't lifting at 631WTQ so I'm not worried. The car has already seen close to 100 runs without a single issue except a broken pinion Click here to enlarge
      1. Sticky's Avatar
        Sticky -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        Valve springs don't need to be changed on this head at least not yet. No one is revving to 9000rpm any time soon and if we were then the intake valves would also be changed. Everything about this head was assessed and done by a shop building top fuel race motors putting out 2500HP. They've been in that the last 30 years! They did tell me to get new head studs from ARP but I didn't know how much time I had and ARP takes a few weeks to make custom ones. Had I known it was going to be close to an 8 months wait and not 4 weeks like I was told initially then custom ARP head studs/bolts would've been done. However, the head isn't lifting at 631WTQ so I'm not worried. The car has already seen close to 100 runs without a single issue except a broken pinion Click here to enlarge
        So what was their assessment of the head?
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
        So what was their assessment of the head?
        In what sense?
      1. bigdnno98's Avatar
        bigdnno98 -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        Valve springs don't need to be changed on this head at least not yet. No one is revving to 9000rpm any time soon and if we were then the intake valves would also be changed. Everything about this head was assessed and done by a shop building top fuel race motors putting out 2500HP. They've been in that the last 30 years! They did tell me to get new head studs from ARP but I didn't know how much time I had and ARP takes a few weeks to make custom ones. Had I known it was going to be close to an 8 months wait and not 4 weeks like I was told initially then custom ARP head studs/bolts would've been done. However, the head isn't lifting at 631WTQ so I'm not worried. The car has already seen close to 100 runs without a single issue except a broken pinion Click here to enlarge
        Its really the boost psi you have to worry about as far as the head lifting. Are you planning to turn it up some more when you test e85 or race gas? I'm glad you're pioneering this showing us the limits Click here to enlarge
        the community thanks you.
      1. Sticky's Avatar
        Sticky -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        In what sense?
        Generally on its quality.
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
        Generally on its quality.
        They said it flows poorly compared to everything they've ever done before including everything in the American Muscle arsenal and a bunch of Porsche, VW, Subaru heads...this was their first DI head ever which was part of the reason they were interested in seeing the results
      1. Sticky's Avatar
        Sticky -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        They said it flows poorly compared to everything they've ever done before
        Surprise surprise.
      1. BoostAddict's Avatar
        BoostAddict -
        valve springs are can be pretty beneficial in high boost applications. Boost pressure can actually hold the valve open a little bit. This would be a must with an aggressive cam set up too. With the head already off I would do them anyway so you never have to worry about it. Just a tid bit for anybody else thinking of building there head.
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by BoostAddict Click here to enlarge
        valve springs are can be pretty beneficial in high boost applications. Boost pressure can actually hold the valve open a little bit. This would be a must with an aggressive cam set up too. With the head already off I would do them anyway so you never have to worry about it. Just a tid bit for anybody else thinking of building there head.
        That'll take another 8 months to develop properly at least Click here to enlarge But I agree with you.
      1. Ak335i's Avatar
        Ak335i -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Sticky Click here to enlarge
        So what was their assessment of the head?

        Was it good?
      1. bigdnno98's Avatar
        bigdnno98 -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        That'll take another 8 months to develop properly at least Click here to enlarge But I agree with you.
        +1. That's what I was getting at with the valve springs.
      1. nitehawk's Avatar
        nitehawk -
        Damn, sucks to see this happen already Click here to enlarge Can you even order the pinion gear separately? How's long will it take to arrive? You might want to upgrade the diff bushings now that it's down (not sure if you encounter wheelhop, but it can't hurt)
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by nitehawk Click here to enlarge
        Damn, sucks to see this happen already Click here to enlarge Can you even order the pinion gear separately? How's long will it take to arrive? You might want to upgrade the diff bushings now that it's down (not sure if you encounter wheelhop, but it can't hurt)
        It was wheel hop that snapped the pinion in half. Pinion can't be bought on its own. Its paired with a ring gear so a full donor unit needs to be bought to take its pinion and ring gear. Its ok, they can be had fairly cheap eventually if I decided to try the 2.56 again. In the meantime it'll be a 3.08, kind of wanted to try it again anyways.
      1. Flinchy's Avatar
        Flinchy -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        I think it happened to @BuraQ as well with the OEM 2.56 diff. Something similar if not the same also happened to @onebadmofo . They both had considerably less torque. All it takes is some bad wheel hop.
        So, wheel hop is pretty much the drive shaft loading and unloading rapidly as you gain and lose traction due at least in part due to too much flex/give in certain components?

        So pretty much a several hundred newton meter impact driver?

        I see how it would break lol - so id you manage to never wheel hop, you SHOULD be ok?
      1. Autobahn335i's Avatar
        Autobahn335i -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        driveshaft broke lol

        not to worry though, something much better is coming to replace it
        Carbon fiber?? Click here to enlarge
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Yes
      1. Autobahn335i's Avatar
        Autobahn335i -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno@ProTUNING Freaks Click here to enlarge
        Yes
        Awesome! But I guess the 6AT driveshaft is different?
      1. ajm8127's Avatar
        ajm8127 -
        What were you using as far as bushings to mount the diff to the subframe?