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    • Wet nitrous setup testing on Rob Beck turbo upgraded N54 335i - 500 wheel horsepower

      We finally completed the nitrous install on my 335i. The power gains where phenomenal but as people know it is easy to get carried away. We found a medium result between boost and jet size and tuned the car to make 500whp at only 1 bar boost. We saw much higher numbers but at the moment until the gearbox is upgraded we will leave it at that. OB from Chip Logic work was meticulous both in terms of the wiring but also in terms of certain plumbing that was required to make the kit fit as best as possible. Below are some pictures with some explanations for those that are not familiar with nitrous.






      The tank on the left provides fuel to the fuel nozzle without affecting the cars normal fuel pressure. A must for high horsepower application. The fuel line, nitrous line and wiring disconnect under the carpet. I can then lift the whole matt and replace it with a second one for grocery purposes.






      The nitrous solenoids can be seen on the right corner of this picture.






      This is the purge valve for the nitrous. The pipes for this was custom as we wanted the purge to come out at the fog lamp area.






      Jet location with the jet in direct path of the intake manifold.
      My methanol nozzle is also visible but is not in use at this stage.






      The arming switch and purge switch, the rest is controlled by a progressive controller but we have installed as a extra safety measure a switch that allows the solenoids to active only if the overdrive button is pressed. That way I can go full throttle but only allow the progressive controller to do its thing when overdrive is pushed.

      Other than that there is nothing visible in the interior.






      The dyno printer was damaged but someone got a picture of one of our test runs in the early tuning stages, it also turned out the rpm was not set properly as the drop of point is 500rpm higher than it should be. Please keep in mind this was done at 5500ft. Base run on stock boost was 276whp and a average stock 335 makes under 250whp on this dyno. So the figures are comparitave to a Mustang dyno. No methanol was used for these numbers.

      This article was originally published in forum thread: Wet Nitrous and RB powered started by George Smooth View original post
      Comments 63 Comments
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
        Would you adjust anything if you went down to sea level?
        Boost for boost the RB make about 5% less power up here than at the coast so I am sure some fine tuning will have to be made but I do not think its crucial. Although the boost is similar there is less oxygen in the air flow. I do think the ECU will compensate the difference and theoretically the nitrous/fuel relation remains the same.
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
        I hear your reasoning but this is the first I have seen nitrous activation so high in the rpm band.. The norm I see is between 3000-6200, the meat of the rpm band..At what rpm do you have nitrous shut off?
        Yah, I am basically tuning the nitrous for the cars traction capability as well. When making the massive torque in the mid range there is not point in throwing more on top of that. I shut the nitrous around 6300 and rev a extra 100 odd rpm prior to the shift. This helps clean any fuel that didn't atomize properly clear the manifold.
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
        Yah, I am basically tuning the nitrous for the cars traction capability as well. When making the massive torque in the mid range there is not point in throwing more on top of that. I shut the nitrous around 6300 and rev a extra 100 odd rpm prior to the shift. This helps clean any fuel that didn't atomize properly clear the manifold.
        I think you got it backwards there in terms of when to hit the button...why would you limit torque anywhere? You need to solve traction where it needs to be solved, at the "tires" and rear suspension...put some fat ass sticky DRs on the back and let her fly...similar reason why I don't agree with people using boost reduction in 1st and 2nd gear just to be able to launch their car...its not the right way to do these things...we want more power everywhere (low, mid, high rpms) and deal with traction by going stickier/fatter tires and better dialed in suspension...i understand if the goal is just to work with what you already got (e.g. street tires) but then you're just putting in a workaround and those don't work if at the same time you're going for glory runs
      1. Cn555ic's Avatar
        Cn555ic -
        I guess each person has their own ideas of where to put down power with nitrous. I have done a ton of research on nitrous before I even pulled the trigger and all the users have their systems trigger somwhere from 3000-6300 rpms.. Having nitrous spray from
        5100-6300 is such a small window that I think you wouldnt even get a real effect of the nitrous...But hey if its working for you, I guess thats your preference. I have mine spray based upon what I have researched and its at 3000-6300..
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
        I guess each person has their own ideas of where to put down power with nitrous. I have done a ton of research on nitrous before I even pulled the trigger and all the users have their systems trigger somwhere from 3000-6300 rpms.. Having nitrous spray from
        5100-6300 is such a small window that I think you wouldnt even get a real effect of the nitrous...But hey if its working for you, I guess thats your preference. I have mine spray based upon what I have researched and its at 3000-6300..
        I guess its each to their own, like you running a .20 jet - its your personal preference. I do not see why I should activate the nitrous earlier when the boost can take care of the power and enough power to break the gearbox in my case. If I activate it at 3000 it will just peel the tires right through the gears and besides why would I want to shock the engine at such low rpm when I do not have too at this stage. What I have now is not what I sucked out of my thumb but what works for the cars dynamics to get it to move forward fast and in a orderly fashion. If the gearbox could handle it I would be pushing 600whp but it can't therefore I need to adapt. Keep in my mind that the dyno I use is similar to a Mustang in terms of output so 500whp is quite a bit of power to be putting down.
      1. Cn555ic's Avatar
        Cn555ic -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
        I guess its each to their own, like you running a .20 jet - its your personal preference. I do not see why I should activate the nitrous earlier when the boost can take care of the power and enough power to break the gearbox in my case. If I activate it at 3000 it will just peel the tires right through the gears and besides why would I want to shock the engine at such low rpm when I do not have too at this stage. What I have now is not what I sucked out of my thumb but what works for the cars dynamics to get it to move forward fast and in a orderly fashion. If the gearbox could handle it I would be pushing 600whp but it can't therefore I need to adapt. Keep in my mind that the dyno I use is similar to a Mustang in terms of output so 500whp is quite a bit of power to be putting down.
        I hear you George! Personal preference for sure! I run a .20 jet is because I respect nitrous and what it can do, at the same time I know larger jets will induce more strain on the engine and increase the chances of engine failure, which I will avoid as much as possible. I could only imagine what larger jets would feel like as I feel a huge bump in power with my .20 jet, but I will leave it to the other nitrous renegades like yourself to max out nitrous power potential..
      1. dzenno@PTF's Avatar
        dzenno@PTF -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
        I guess its each to their own, like you running a .20 jet - its your personal preference. I do not see why I should activate the nitrous earlier when the boost can take care of the power and enough power to break the gearbox in my case. If I activate it at 3000 it will just peel the tires right through the gears and besides why would I want to shock the engine at such low rpm when I do not have too at this stage. What I have now is not what I sucked out of my thumb but what works for the cars dynamics to get it to move forward fast and in a orderly fashion. If the gearbox could handle it I would be pushing 600whp but it can't therefore I need to adapt. Keep in my mind that the dyno I use is similar to a Mustang in terms of output so 500whp is quite a bit of power to be putting down.
        Why not upgrade the tranny? Don't take it disrespectfully I'm just asking questions and trying to discuss...i just don't understand why you'd go a wet nitrous path when you can have the same power on RBs only, or is that not the case?

        Personally I'd first be upgrading the tranny and then adding a wet shot once the turbos are maxed out...
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by dzenno Click here to enlarge
        Why not upgrade the tranny? Don't take it disrespectfully I'm just asking questions and trying to discuss...i just don't understand why you'd go a wet nitrous path when you can have the same power on RBs only, or is that not the case?

        Personally I'd first be upgrading the tranny and then adding a wet shot once the turbos are maxed out...
        The RB max out at around 470 at this altitude (5600ft) on the dyno I use.
        Your questions are very valid. Prior to fitting the nos I was negotiating with level 10 to have the box done. Communication was very slow and it stopped at the point of them telling me they would get a core and let me know when they are ready. I got the nitrous and fitted it and never heard from them again. So I played a bit with it.
        Then Weistecs superchargers came along so I decided to rathe throw the money into my C63 with prooven outcomes and room for more experimentation on my side.
        Moving forward with the 35 would require wider fenders at the back as the 275's DR's don't cut it. Expensive suspension, bigger breaks and ultimately having to ship my gearbox to level 10 at a huge expense from South Africa. Being the wifes daily makes these things hard as I have a no overnight down time policy with the car. All of these issues take me out of my 10 second goal. At the moment I will just be happy to grab the 60-130 record for a while. Mid sixes are possible so I just need to do it formally.
      1. R1000K3's Avatar
        R1000K3 -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
        When you were pulsing the solenoid for nitrous, did it also pulse the fuel solenoid too? How high was the lean spike that you saw when it happened?
        The fuel solenoid needs to be pulsed too or the engine would be drawn in fuel during the ramp up phase. It will still be more fuel than normal until the solenoids are continuously open since the fuel solenoid opens much quicker than the N2O solenoid. If I recall correct the time for closure is also faster on the N2O solenoid, it should be.
      1. PEI330Ci's Avatar
        PEI330Ci -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
        I just wanted to say thanks about the staging of the solenoids. I ran the fuel on the second stage and activate it 100rpm prior to the gas and the lean spike is gone. I have also moved to NOS solenoids and am not pulsing anymore.
        Your welcome! Glad it worked.

        Your RPM points are pretty close to what I did as well without pulsing...but it will be different for everyone depending on the distribution lines and how fast the engine revs.

        On my 330i...I won't be turbo limited like you are, but I'm still planning on running nitrous at the track. Whatever the car makes at 14psi for peak torque, I'll try to add nitrous as RPM increases to keep the torque flat.

        Like you say: Why make more power when you can't use it....

        No clue on how much of a shot I'll run yet....probably going to start with 25hp and see how that works. I'm not greedy....knowing very well what a 200 ft/lb torque cliff can do to drivetrain components on activation. Been there...not doing that on a street car. LOL

        Great to see another project where KISS is in effect!
      1. Cn555ic's Avatar
        Cn555ic -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by PEI330Ci Click here to enlarge
        Your welcome! Glad it worked.

        Your RPM points are pretty close to what I did as well without pulsing...but it will be different for everyone depending on the distribution lines and how fast the engine revs.

        On my 330i...I won't be turbo limited like you are, but I'm still planning on running nitrous at the track. Whatever the car makes at 14psi for peak torque, I'll try to add nitrous as RPM increases to keep the torque flat.

        Like you say: Why make more power when you can't use it....

        No clue on how much of a shot I'll run yet....probably going to start with 25hp and see how that works. I'm not greedy....knowing very well what a 200 ft/lb torque cliff can do to drivetrain components on activation. Been there...not doing that on a street car. LOL

        Great to see another project where KISS is in effect!
        Thats a very similar shot that I am using which is using a .20 jet. Although I can spin practically the entire 2nd gear if I am on it, but what I do is feather the throttle slowly to WOT and then hit the nitrous button at around 4000-4500rpms and then when it hits 3rd gear and higher, the tires catch and there is just very slight wheel spin but the car just projects forward at an incredible speed.. The strain on the drivetrain at 3000rpms is relatively on the low side IMO especially in 3rd gear and on, but if your spraying in second gear the rpms should be higher for sure and activation should be somewhere from 4000-5000..This is where a manual trigger button is most useful, or a system that has 1st and 2nd gear lockout..Most of strain on the tranny will be during 1st or 2nd gear spray. You would be surprised the power increase you get from just a small .20 jet especially on a full bottle at 1050psi! Definitely noticeable for sure.
      1. PEI330Ci's Avatar
        PEI330Ci -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by Cn555ic Click here to enlarge
        Thats a very similar shot that I am using which is using a .20 jet. Although I can spin practically the entire 2nd gear if I am on it, but what I do is feather the throttle slowly to WOT and then hit the nitrous button at around 4000-4500rpms and then when it hits 3rd gear and higher, the tires catch and there is just very slight wheel spin but the car just projects forward at an incredible speed.. The strain on the drivetrain at 3000rpms is relatively on the low side IMO especially in 3rd gear and on, but if your spraying in second gear the rpms should be higher for sure and activation should be somewhere from 4000-5000..This is where a manual trigger button is most useful, or a system that has 1st and 2nd gear lockout..Most of strain on the tranny will be during 1st or 2nd gear spray. You would be surprised the power increase you get from just a small .20 jet especially on a full bottle at 1050psi! Definitely noticeable for sure.
        It's the intercooling effect...that's why you see the big gains on a 15hp jet.

        I would keep your bottle pressure in the 900s....nitrous actually reaches a critical state and turns to gas just above 1050psi....not a good thing.
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Guys I am bringIng this thread back from it's death. Want to start playing again so if anyone knows of a auto transmission for sale in the states please let me know.
      1. bigdnno98's Avatar
        bigdnno98 -
        There is surely a lot more nitrous talk on here lately. I'm so glad you guys are here and I'm sure I'll be calling on you soon for some help.
      1. e90TiAg335i's Avatar
        e90TiAg335i -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
        Guys I am bringIng this thread back from it's death. Want to start playing again so if anyone knows of a auto transmission for sale in the states please let me know.
        Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i Click here to enlarge
        Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
        Thanks for that.
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i Click here to enlarge
        Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
        Thanks for that.
      1. lamia2super's Avatar
        lamia2super -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by e90TiAg335i Click here to enlarge
        Look on car-parts.com. There are several on there from 1-2.5k
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by George Smooth Click here to enlarge
        Thanks for that.
        becareful!!!! i used that site to get a hold on a new engine and person i bought it from sold me a broken engine and wont return my money
      1. lamia2super's Avatar
        lamia2super -
        all automotive imports inc is specifically the one im having issues with
      1. George Smooth's Avatar
        George Smooth -
        Click here to enlarge Originally Posted by lamia2super Click here to enlarge
        becareful!!!! i used that site to get a hold on a new engine and person i bought it from sold me a broken engine and wont return my money
        Thanks for the heads up.