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  • 654's Avatar
    07-24-2015, 02:24 PM
    654 started a thread Timeslips of big singles? in N54
    What are the best timeslips of single turbo cars?
    167 replies | 2236 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    07-27-2015, 02:08 PM
    AD intercooler showed up this morning. Thing is seriously bad ass. Looking forward to getting it on the car. Hopefully have it up and running this week. While everyone else continues to discuss magic numbers, and HPFP's. We continue pushing things forward in the background as we always do. Enjoy the pictures.
    56 replies | 1323 view(s)
  • JerryT's Avatar
    07-27-2015, 05:16 PM
    Introducing JPworks BMW n54 top mount manifolds T4 divided flange tapped, top mount, made of schedule 10 304l stainless, 1/2" flanges and twin 38mm V-band wastegate provision. Price is $1200.00 Also offering: Down pipe $250 Open dump tubes $150 Thread will updated with pictures daily.
    49 replies | 1187 view(s)
  • spxxx's Avatar
    07-25-2015, 12:16 PM
    I've been building custom maps for MHD since it was in early Beta in January and have had some success, I have about 50-100 people running a variant of my maps either standalone or Stacked. I made a separate email since there's been a ton of demand for custom tunes, I'm not charging anything, obviously donations are fine as this has taken a lot of work, trial and error, trips to Mexico for 120mph+ logging etc.... I really just want these out there and hope you all take these base files and run with them! I know a lot of people build custom maps and I wish people were more willing to share. Here's my attempt. I currently have: IJEOS E60 IJEOS E3O IJEOS Pump+Meth IJEOS Pump Beta I8AOS E60 I8AOS E30 I8AOS Pump + Meth Email me at spxtuning@gmail and I'll get the correct map sent over!
    33 replies | 799 view(s)
  • subaru335i's Avatar
    Yesterday, 10:41 AM
    With all of the awesome progress lately on the N54 tuning/flashing side of things I have gotten extremely jealous :). As most of us know the cobb flashing capabilities are in the stone age in comparison to even the cobb support for N54 (no vanos tables defined even, etc etc). Not to mention how handicapped we are compared to the new stuff that is being added to the N54 xdf's. Cobb has pretty clearly abandoned the BMW flashing game and are just riding on their good reputation now. jyamona suggested putting a list together of people interested in furthering the N55 tuning so someone like @martial@mhd might be interested in adding N55 support to the MHD app (or anyone else with the necessary know how and skills). I would certainly ditch my Cobb and pay for an app or whatever if I could edit and define my own tables and flash the DME over OBD and not be stuck with what cobb decided was "good enough". Chime in here if you are in the same boat and are interested in seeing this progress. Obviously the E9x N55's will be easiest (as cobb already proved they are flashable) but there are certainly a lot more F3x N55 cars out there so the ability to flash those cars at all would increase demand significantly. Thanks guys!
    21 replies | 202 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-28-2015, 07:18 PM
    An interesting photo was posted from a BMW technical document on the BimmerBoost forums that gives a quick and easy overlay of the BMW N54 and N55 valvetrains including their VANOS camshaft adjustment ranges. The N54 and N55 of course are similar turbocharged and direct injected inline-6 motors sharing the same bore and stroke. They clearly are tuned a bit differently (due to the N55 being single turbo for one) and the N55's addition of Valvetronic plays a role. The N55 has a wider range of intake and exhaust VANOS adjustment as well as larger intake valve lift and cam duration compared to the N54 as the tech document highlights. Potentially the N55 can breathe better up top namely with a large turbo upgrade although tuning VANOS as well as Valvetronic is complicated. VANOS alone is a difficult system to tune and we have yet to see aftermarket VANOS cams working for the N54 or N55 motors. An interesting comparison nonetheless.
    26 replies | 119 view(s)
  • pobudz's Avatar
    Today, 12:20 AM
    Finally got around to going back to the dyno today. Arizona :( 109F inside the dyno room. New mods since last making 698/660 (~80*F): ADE 800whp FMIC CSF Racing radiator Back to the 3.08, quaife lsd New center support bearing MHD Tune w/ converted Cobb E50 map to get to the gas station, and baseline E85 (some back story on this one) YAY no more mixing! So... I spent the morning prepping the car. I was going to switch to heat range 8 plugs, ngk 6706's, so I put those in. Gapped them at .017. Had some issues with misfiring... car just didn't feel right on the way to the dyno. Hardly got into boost on the drive to the dyno. I get there and decide to swap back to my 5992s (brought them just in case... and I wasn't even a boyscout). I find... this: With the help of a friend, we got the porcelain cleared out with a shop vac by breaking it down using a socket. The little pieces were stuck in the gap between the spark plug base and the nut. Eventually got onto the dyno... ... which was partially broken (no torque read out). So... we focused on just getting the tune done and not on numbers. We got as high as 32psi tapering to 28psi. WGDC ended up maxed out on the 15lb wastegate spring. We ended up sticking with 25psi. I can move to a 20lb spring or get a 4 port mac solenoid according to Jake@MOTIV. I will be trying out the 4 port first. We are also toying with the possibility of a bigger exhaust housing (currently .82, moving to ~1.02) for more air. This is e85 (no mixing), at 110* ambient air: Comparison of the previous runs prior to NoFlyZone (3.46 final drive vs 3.08 final drive): Ended up making the same power, with less boost, on e85. MHD and AEM are working very well together :) The tablet I have works out nicely too... I'll update this thread with GoPro footage later on (Jake dumped some extra fuel in up top :awesome:). Martial discovered a way to convert a Cobb flash. Jake was working with him directly, I guess he ended up flashing my Cobb tune to his car and then pulled it out as a .bin using something else.. MHD maybe. I didn't get details... Talk to Jake @ MOTIV or Martial of MHD if you are curious. The car feels F'n AMAZING. Once I got on to the freeway and started having fun, I realized that EVERYTHING was just so much smoother. I don't know if it was MHD, no more 91, or finally getting retuned in general. HUGE thanks to Jake for once again mastering the art of remote tuning. Teamviewer ftw. Datazap: Sorry... no AEM logs :)
    18 replies | 291 view(s)
  •'s Avatar
    07-23-2015, 10:28 PM
    ORDER LINK Finally, an affordable intake system worthy of your S55 M3/M4! The BMS S55 Performance Intake retains everything that is good about the OEM intake including the cold air ducting and light weight heat shielding airbox bottom, but replaces the top end of the intake with higher flow ducting and quality inverted cone air filters to match. During our dyno testing the BMS S55 Performance Intake performed the same or better than other S55 intakes tested posting gains of up to 10+ horsepower to the wheels at 25psi+ boost levels. Note the OEM S55 air intake flows very well from the factory so gains are mostly present at higher boost levels and higher RPM where airflow requirements are highest. In addition to freeing up some power turbo spool speed was improved, and there is an incredible sound improvement. You'll finally be able to hear your turbo spooling! Installation is easy and fully reversible. Our proprietary high flow filters can be cleaned every 15-20k miles using a S&B cleaning kit and will last the life of the car. Our intake temperature testing found no significant difference from the factory intake during both sustained cruise and full throttle operation. BMS S55 //M Performance Intake • Adds up to 10+ Horsepower • Dramatic sound improvement • Super fast install and removal • Improves throttle response • Retains OEM airbox base as a heat shield • Retains OEM cold air ducting • Looks great under the hood • Cleanable and reusable filter • Made in the USA Applications: BMW M3/M4 • 2015+ F8X M3/M4
    17 replies | 123 view(s)
  • Jeffman's Avatar
    07-28-2015, 11:54 AM
    I've got a kid in college now so my mod budget is limited... I'm wondering what's the best bang for the buck mod upgrade for an FBO N54 to get to 500 whp/500wtq? From what I've been reading on the forums, the latest developments in inlets and Fuel-It's throttle body injectors (TBI) look to be very cost effective for substantially bumping up power for an "almost FBO" car like mine. I am currently running an E40-E50 flash only Cobb ATR tune on my "almost FBO" (sans kitty less dp) 335xi AT which Virtual Dyno says I'm achieving 400 whp/460wtq at 18 psi max boost. Do you think I can reach 500/500 with just inlets and/or TBI on E85? If so, would I need to increase my boost to over 18 psi, and could I do that flash-only, i.e., which tables in ATR should I adjust? Would I also need an N20 TMAP sensor to do this correctly? Thanks for your input.
    16 replies | 312 view(s)
  • Mrpikolo's Avatar
    Yesterday, 08:53 PM
    This should go without saying: Choose your oil filter wisely. This even includes reputation name brands, such as Bosch. Today, I am going to show you why some things are not always as they appear to be. About 5 or so years ago, Bosch came into the North American market with a new line of filters. These filters quickly went into all the big box auto parts stores. Advertising as high quality aftermarket replacements. What many people may not know, is they are not manufactured by Bosch at all. Bosch filters, at least largely in the North American market, are manufactured by Purolator. I have known this since they first came out. A couple months ago, I decided to go with one. I usually use a Wix filter, but I was feeling a little adventurous. Plus, the Bosch was advertised with a synthetic media, while pretty much all Wix filters use a high quality paper media. A couple weeks later, I noticed I was leaking oil out of my filter cap. No big deal, I assumed I failed at tightening it up correctly. First I took the filter cap off to make sure I had an o-ring on it, and noticed something strange.... Wait... that top piece isn't suppose to be there.... Interesting...Looks to be like my filter likes my cage, and it's slightly distorted After a few minutes with a screw driver, and quite a bit of force I was able to separate the two pieces again. Yup, not only did my filter collapse in on itself, it also decided to get a divorce from it's base. There you have it. After about 2000 miles of driving, this BOSCH filter, which is suppose to last 15k(OE change interval), failed. Thankfully, I had no other issues result cause of this. I replaced it with a Wix filter and am having no issues. My professional opinion: Do not use ANY filter aside from an O.E. manufacture. Mahl, MANN, Wix, Fleetgaurd, ect are all O.E. manufacture lines. Stay away from Purolator, Champ(champ makes a lot of filters. K&N, Mobile, Pennzoil, most house branded, Royal Purple), and Fram.
    13 replies | 230 view(s)
  • Charmuth's Avatar
    07-23-2015, 10:36 PM
    Hello everyone, I'm sure this has been discussed a lot in the past but can't find a sure answer. My car is a 09 135i AT with 86k miles and after installing VRSF catless DP's and berk full race exhaust my car smokes a lot and smells like burning oil while slowing down and coming to a stop. I did also notice the oil is being consumed quite faster than before. Took it to a local knowledgable BMW shop in my area and they checked the turbos and they looked fine. They are saying that the issue might be from the valve cover because its leaking and that the whole thing needs to be replaced, and noticed that the oil filter housing is leaking as well. They also recommended that I have the intake manifold valves walnut blasted. Do you think doing all the above will stop the white smoke on decel. and when coming to a stop? and would upgrading to a RB PCV valve help resolve this issue? Thanks ahead!
    11 replies | 202 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-25-2015, 03:23 AM
    As you likely know the 2015 BMW X5M and X6M are second generation models. Although they still have a 4.4 liter twin turbo V8 and automatic transmission the vehicles were updated to the S63TU 4.4 liter V8 that features the Valvetronic system and they also feature new BMW programming. This necessitates new software for aftermarket tuning and Velos has such aftermarket software for the new M SUV's. The X5M and X6M in stock form are rated by BMW at 567 horsepower and 553 lb-ft of torque. On the Dynojet this translates to 493 wheel horsepower and 499 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. This is less wheel horsepower but more torque than an F10 M5 S63TU. BimmerBoost hates to toot its own horn but sometimes we have to remind people just how good a of a job we do: 'If BimmerBoost were to speculate BMW likely upped the boost a bit with the addition of Valvetronic and tuned the motor for more of a low end torque profile than the F10 M5' That speculation from last year proved accurate. The X5M and X6M are not revving out past 7k rpm and are tuned for more torque down low as these SUV's are expected to actually tow. With the addition of a Stage I pump gas tune peak horsepower goes up to 544 to the wheels and peak torque to 577 lb-ft at the wheels. Gains of 63 horsepower and 78 lb-ft of torque respectively. The X5M and X6M obviously suffer higher drivetrain losses than the F10 M5 or F13 M6 with the automatic transmission and all wheel drive. Tuners will not hit the same peak numbers with the S63TU equipped SUV's as they do with their rear wheel drive DCT M6 coupe and M5 sedan counterparts. It will be interesting to see who gets the X5M and X6M over 600 wheel horsepower first.
    15 replies | 51 view(s)
  • Mrpikolo's Avatar
    07-26-2015, 07:30 PM
    I've been playing with a few things all day, trying to get my boost to not spike and cause unneeded throttle closures. Data log is here : Below is a screen shot of my boost control tables. I have lowered my WGDC Base, played around with the P and D tables, with no luck on calming it down. What am I missing? Thank you in advance!
    14 replies | 164 view(s)
  •'s Avatar
    07-26-2015, 06:48 PM
    I noticed after logging that i am pulling negative timing on all cylinders. Is this tune to agressive ? Or are my sparkplugs to old ( 31K miles) Mods : Er charge pipe w tial bov , BMS DCI , downpipes
    10 replies | 198 view(s)
  • jyamona's Avatar
    Today, 12:56 PM
    jyamona started a thread Load by Gear - Teaser in N54
    So, the time has come to fill you guys in on something I have been hard at work on, along w/ martial@mhd ;) Aside from defining new tables and building out the XDF's, some of you know I decompiled the BIN into assembly some time ago in IDA Pro and have been studying it, vs. the logic in "IS" car bins. Well, based closely on the "overboost" feature of the IS cars, I bring to you: Load by Gear, tested and working on my regular old IJEOS 135i! It entails custom logic implemented into my IJEOS bin. I8AOS support will come, but is much harder as it's structure is much different. The premise is simple, you set your Load Target to the lowest load you would like to run (1st gear), and then use the new "Load Target Adder by Gear" table to increase this load for subsequent gears. And unlike the "overboost" feature on 1M and IS cars, load does not decay after 1s / timer. This will allow you to put down exactly as much power per gear that your tires can handle. Here is a screenshot of how I had these two tables set up for testing purposes (intentionally slow / pointless stepped load just for demonstration): Worthless without logs, you say? Ignore the sloppy PID, boost, throttle closures in the tune, it is just a base map thrown together for testing purposes :) There is still more testing to take place, and getting it added to I8AOS will take some time, but I imagine porting to the 1M / IS roms should be much more trivial.
    9 replies | 66 view(s)
  • lcvette's Avatar
    07-24-2015, 11:54 PM
    Hey guys, I just removed the OEM inlet pipes and wanted to share my experience with the community to maybe help someone else out. First of all, I did this during a turbo swap so the subframe was out which was helpful, so if you are planning to go with upgraded twins I highly recommend doing this job at the same time regardless of whose Inlets you decide to purchase. The rear inlet is simply going to have to be cut. I tried about 10 different ways to remove it in one piece before finally submitting to the fact that the only way to accomplish that would be to drop the motor, simply too tight near the rear turbo area. I will upload some pictures tomorrow to help with the visuals. But for now I will add the text while it's fresh in my mind. This write up assumes you have read other write-ups about getting everything cleared to the point of removal such as down pipes, filters, fresh air cabin filter deck, valve cover beauty cover, drained coolant system and removed the reservoir tank and vacuum canisters. If you are doing turbos at the same time you'll also have the old units removed and water pump and Thermostat. Plenty of write-ups for all of those with a quick search. For the rear inlet, make sure you remove the pcv hose amd small wire plug going to it from the inlet. Therw are two tabs on the front and back that must be gently pryed out with a small flat blade screw driver. It then simply pops up and out. There are 2 T30 torx screws that hold the inlet to the back of the cylinder head. There is no room to fit a ratchet and socket back there so it took some Macgyvering to accomplish removal. I used a T30 bit from a cheap screwdriver bitset I have had for years. These can be found at almost any hardware store and usually come in a case or rubber strip with various other type bits and screwdriver heads. It requires a 1/4" wrench, I have a full set of ratcheting wrenches which made the job much simpler. I put a layer of electrical tape over the back of the bit to hold it in the wrenches boxed end and keep it from sliding around. It takes a minute to situate your hands over the passenger side fender and get back there and feel the torx bit's way into the screw head. Once you get it in, break it loose and give it about two turns to fully losen it. For mine after that they were easily removed with fingers to expedite the task. Both are accomplished the same way. With wverything disconnected from thw rwar inlet and it being loose now, you can get at it from under the car and pull it off the turbo (if your not swapping to hybrids and already have them removed) and pull it towards the passenger side of the car as nuvh as possible. I cut the thin tube with a small body air saw which made quick work through the plastic. But you will likely need a longer sawsall blade if the turbos are not being removed. You should cut it just before the bend towards the turbo inlet. Once it is cut it will pull out easily from the top towards the drivers side of the car. Rear one done! For the front inlet, I think it will need to be cut to remove unless your turbos and estriol are your for replacement. Mine were out so I was able to remove the two t30 torx screws holding the inlet to the front of the motor . I was able to use a ratchet on these, tight but workable. Once loose, fingers again were faster and easier then continuing with the ratchet. I then removed the large upper radiator hose, quick spring clips just like throttle body flange, simply use a small flat tip to lift it up and snap it into the unlocked position. These hose fitting were tight and required some wiggling and light pressure with a large flat blade driver to break loose. Don't get crazy when prying, it is plastic after all. Once both ends are loose, remove and see the new clearance available to maneuver the inlet. Mine went out the bottom with a little twisting and care to make sure all the hoses were unlatched from the molded on loom on the inlet. Much cleaner looking with it removed and belt changes look like they will be a snap now. If your turbos and waterpump are still on the car, you will need to cut the inlet same as the rear one and remove from the top. All in all the actual job of removing the inlet with the right tools I listed isn't too bad but requires removal of alot of other items to gain access. I would say after doing this that I would wait and do Inlets at the same time as upgraded turbos or at least downpipes because the job piggy backs well and will save alot of extra work. If you are just doing inlets and want to remove all of the oem inlet piping, Plan on about 4-5 hours start to finish first time around with proper tools on the fast side and more if your a leisurely wrenches. Hope this helps and I will post up some pictures tomorrow to go along with the writup and make things clearer! Chris
    6 replies | 256 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    Yesterday, 06:40 PM
    We get feedback like this almost daily, but people rarely post it on the forums, figured I would share a little of it. All work was done by a very high end German shop called EuroWise they could not have been happier with the way everything fit, and performed once installed. If you are considering going with VTT, you can do do confidently! As always thanks for the support! "Hi Tony, Just got back the car recently and took it easy for the first couple of hundred miles. I was able to log some pulls for Dzenno today and I am very happy with how the car keeps pulling up top now. I'll definitely get on a dyno for some 93oct and e50 pulls once Dzenno and I are satisfied with the tunes. I chatted with the folks over at Eurowise for a bit and they said that the inlets fit very, very well. It was a pain, but everything was just right haha. They're also shipping the cores back for me so just let me know if the box is missing any info. Thanks! Bryan"
    8 replies | 216 view(s)
  • dbarcliff's Avatar
    07-27-2015, 03:17 PM
    Curious if it possible to buy new gears for a Quaife LSD i already have? I purchased the 3.46 gears and they are great but a little more than what i am wanting at this point. I am wanting to switch to 3.15 or back to 3.08. I am having trouble finding any solutions without starting over. Any advise or ideas would be great This is for a large pumpkin 6MT135i. Thanks
    8 replies | 100 view(s)
  • alex@ABRhouston's Avatar
    Yesterday, 03:30 PM
    Budget: 3,000 bucks. Desire: run 3 monitors for racing simulator. Case only. This doesn't include /steering wheel/ monitors/keyboard/mouse/speakers/etc.etc. Sound will be pushed into surround sound via HDMI off of onboard sound card. Thinking 32g ram, I7 4gig, liquid cooler, and GeForce GTX 980 Ti nice case with cooling, 250G SSD for OS and 2TB for storage. go :music-rockout:
    7 replies | 102 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-24-2015, 05:28 PM
    This is some impressive work and had to take considerable time. BimmerBoost was contacted about posting this video and we are more than happy to help. There is 15 minutes of S85 V10 exhaust glory here with 59 exhaust setups for the BMW E60 M5 included. Turn your speakers up and enjoy what is arguably the best engine note from a street legal BMW you will ever hear courtesy of the S85 V10: 1 Stock Exhaust (ronbgon) 2 Stock Exhaust (joshua vega) 3 Active Autowerke Exhaust (jaenius) 4 Active Autowerke Exhaust (jaenius) 5 Active Autowerke Exhaust (VAC Motorsports) 6 Active Autowerke Exhaust (966Motors's channel) 7 Active Autowerke Exhaust (GermanMotoring) 8 Agency Power Exhaust (xmt2007x) 9 Agency Power Exhaust (AgencyPower) 10 Agency Power Exhaust (AghaRamin) 11 Akrapovic Exhaust (6gingersnaps) 12 Arqray Exhaust (sabotensanta) 13 Arqray Exhaust (sabotensanta) 14 ASR Engineering Exhaust (asrengineering) 15 ASR Engineering Exhaust (asrengineering) 16 Billy Boat Exhaust (ztootik) 17 Borla Exhaust (Yasir Khan) 18 Corsa Exhaust (sonicmotorsport's channel) 19 Corsa Exhaust (smoo9309) 20 Dinan Exhaust (PayneBrawley1) 21 Dinan Stroker + KKS Exhaust (Gumbal) 22 Dixis Exhaust (onyxm400) 23 Dixis Exhaust (onyxm400) 24 Eisenmann Race Exhaust (NM2255 Car HD Videos) 25 Eisenmann Race Exhaust (BrianZuk) 26 Eisenmann Race Exhaust (Sami Okay) 27 Eisenmann Race Exhaust (Gumbal) 28 Eisenmann Sport Exhaust (tomshen) 29 Eisenmann Sport Exhaust ( 30 EVE.RYN Exhaust (EVE.RYN Garage) 31 Evolve E-Tronic Exhaust (Evolve Automotive) 32 Evolve E-Tronic Exhaust (Evolve Automotive) 33 Evosport Exhaust (Simon Atik) 34 Fi Exhaust Exhaust (Simon Motorsport Dubai) 35 Gintani Exhaust (Batughan Kodak) 36 Gintani Exhaust (Alex Simon) 37 Hamann Exhaust (SpotterGijs) 38 Hartge Exhaust (cvdzijden) 39 HMS Exhaust (Klappenmann) 40 HMS Exhaust (JWT Supercars) 41 iPE Exhaust (innotechexhaust) 42 Kreissieg Exhaust (ilgas11) 43 Kreissieg Exhaust (pnoyako851) 44 Kreissieg Exhaust (AD-RACINGWORLD FRANCE) 45 Magnaflow Exhaust (Anthony Losurdo) 46 Meisterschaft Exhaust (GT HAUS) 47 Meisterschaft Exhaust (GT HAUS) 48 Meisterschaft Exhaust (lamborghinisown) 49 RDSport Exhaust (AutoTalent) 50 G-power Exhaust (PURE SOUND CAR VIDEOS ( AUTOJOURNAL.CZ )) 51 Rogue Engineering Exhaust (bmw330ti) 52 RPI Exhaust (UltimateSuperCars) 53 RPI Exhaust (BICBOiM5) 54 Straight Pipes Exhaust (Polouser) 55 Straight Pipes Exhaust (miataDK mark) 56 Supersprint Exhaust (tocca500) 57 Supersprint Exhaust (abi2477) 58 Supersprint Exhaust (BRPerformances) 59 Surprise Exhaust (PolR32)
    7 replies | 44 view(s)
  • quattr0's Avatar
    07-23-2015, 10:30 PM
    I was going to follow begood69 tips buying a few different sand papers but the guy at the local shop insisted that this shit works and it does. Sorry forgot to take before picture but it was caramelized. Basically this kit uses 1000, 3000 grit then wax then sealant. Dont buy Turtle wax and Nu...forgot the name. Waste of money imho.
    6 replies | 137 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    07-28-2015, 10:09 PM
    Some very fast cars in this video. It is shot from the perspective of the bolt on Gen IV Viper so unfortunately we do not get an in car view for each race but that is ok. There are several good runs here we do get to see in their full glory. The first race is a chase view between the C6 ZR1 and the procharged C7 said to be making 820 wheel horsepower with meth injection. The C6 takes the race and it is said to make 900 whp. The bolt on Gen IV Viper camera car runs the C7 next. Considering the Viper is down 200 wheel horsepower it does fairly well until the power disparity shows. The C7 is very, very quick. The bolt on Viper next takes on a UGR (Underground Racing) twin turbo Viper. As you can imagine this is a beatdown. Once the turbo Viper spools and shifts it is gone. It just takes off. The bolt on Viper camera car takes on another twin turbo Viper after this and the result is much of the same. The yellow UGR Viper runs the ZR1 next but this is a chase view unfortunately. The Viper does take the win though. The final race features a T67 Supra against the bolt on gen IV Viper camera car. This is an ugly beatdown. Frankly, the Supra is probably still spooling as this is written. Nice to see cars at various power levels like this go at it to put high horsepower in context.
    7 replies | 61 view(s)
  • Setra's Avatar
    07-26-2015, 08:32 AM
    Hi guys! So I attended a trackday at Nürburgring. I'll do a full write up on the trip later on, but I thought I'd share my fastest lap around Nürburgring Nordschleife with you first. Managed a new personal record. ~7:30 SportAuto Lap Hope you enjoy it!
    4 replies | 80 view(s)
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