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  • Sticky's Avatar
    11-22-2015, 10:16 AM
    Sticky started a thread Closed deck built N54 motor in N54
    I'll just leave this here:
    115 replies | 3360 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    11-21-2015, 07:00 PM
    Its been discussed before, but finally got around to looking at it after the failure. Bought a flood recovery motor from a wrecking yard complete for $1200, they told it was for a core only, could not be run. So of course it was immediately installed and made 700WHP..:) Needless to say it developed a tapping noise not long after that. The next day to be exact, I tried to mess with valve train, and realized it was the bottom end, and not the top end, and continued to drive the car as it ran great. After about a week the noise went away, good ole self machining. Fast forward to the next day, I am on the freeway just cruising along around 70, and all hell breaks loose. Never even bothered to put the car in the air, but finally got around to getting another used motor, so pulled this one, and found a lot of fun stuff. Basically a rod failed on the piston side, exploding the piston through the oil pan, and onto the freeway, this then caused the half broken rod to freewheel 360 degrees, and light sabre everything in its path, including cutting the water pump in half, vacuum pump in half, oil pump, block, you name it, if it was in the way, it was rendered in two..:) The pictures are pretty funny. I'm keeping some of these parts...:dance:
    28 replies | 1079 view(s)
  • Tony@VargasTurboTech's Avatar
    11-25-2015, 03:53 PM
    Well we all knew it was coming here it is. The VTT Black Friday promotion. We do not need any gimmicks, fancy names, mismatched turbos, any of that. With VTT its a simple premise, you buy a turbo that does what its advertised to do, and has for years. Which is set records, on and off the track, and give you trouble free service. The ONLY N54 turbos on the market with 100% custom turbine wheels, designed, and manufactured specifically for us, dual turbine end piston rings, custom thrust parts, brand new CHRA's, the list goes on. We innovated every single N54 turbo upgrade you see on the market today. From 9 blade turbines, to custom thrusts, to 2" snouts, to silicone inlets, you name it, we did it first. People have asked how other brands have come to make the same power so quickly. The answer is simple when you provide the blue print for something, its not hard to copy it, and replicate the results. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery they say. We could not agree more. With the marketing BS out of the way, we are offering a simple discount of 10% off everything on the site, if you order a set of Stage 2, or 2+ N54 turbos. We will throw a set of inlets in the box at no charge. The competitions "SALE" prices are the same as our normal prices, so our sale prices are well, you get it. All this, and our products flat perform better, and last longer. If you want the real deal, for a real deal. Use the discount code below, starting Thursday at 12 midnight through Friday at 12 midnight. Example of prices after the discount: N54 OEM: $899.10 Stage 1: 1349.10 Stage 2: $2249.10 + $399.00 inlets at no charge Stage 2+: $3149.10 + $399.00 inlets at no charge Stage 3: $8099.90 As always thanks for the support! VTT Black Friday Discount code: VTT-BF-10 Instructions for use! Please note the code will NOT work if you do not follow these instructions. You MUST register an account on the site BEFORE you try to use the code, if you try it without registering, the code will come back as invalid. This is by design. The code is good for one use, and one use only per customer.
    17 replies | 929 view(s)
  • kienvu14's Avatar
    11-23-2015, 12:13 AM
    Hey guys, i just want to start of with how horrible of an experience this has been. I chose VTT back in October 2014 because he wasn't so well known at the point and i figured that since he was putting out all these turbos that he would be great to work with. Little did i know that i would be going through two sets of turbos 13 months later....:facepalm Here goes from the beginning. October 2014 - FBO N54, 84k miles driving strong. OEM turbos give out. October 2014 - Turbos arrive on time and installed. Pull strong for almost a year straight and 11k miles. September 14 2015. One day, BOOM. Compressor wheel chipped and now is all bent up. HORRIBLE shaft play. Uninstall, send to Tony. Promised 2 week turn around time for Stage 2 rebuild OR option of Stage 2+ to compensate and was told 3 weeks. Well.... 3 weeks you say hmm? screw it, one week extra of down time for more power?! ill do it! September 18 2015 Turbos received. September 22,2015 Finally able to open turbo and confirm he received them. Opens them up and claims the turbos were deprived of oil.....but they worked for 11k miles and literally a year. My mechanic stated that he highly suggested a piston inside was installed incorrectly causing the compressor shaft to get funky and shear it self. This is where he says 3 weeks from this date is when i will get my Stage 2 + turbos. Remember that detail....Stage 2+ for 3 weeks.... September 24,2015 Email'd tony to confirm, Me:"We are still at a 3 week wait for the Stage 2+ upgrade right?" Tony: " Looking at the workload 3 weeks seems accurate. If anything changes i will let you know." SWEEET..... October 9, 2015 Emailed tony just to make sure we are still going on time. Tony : "We are getting these out to you next week. you have my word." October 15, 2015 Emailed again. he states "Im actually working on your turbo right now. These should be out by tomorrow".....the 16th right? nope.... October 16, 2015 - The day that they were promised to go out. Received email from tony. "I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page. i dont remember what we agreed upon. Did we agree stage 2 rebuild or stage 2+ upgrade? Let me know so i can get started, Just know that im low on stage 2+ housing and it will be a FEW MONTHS before i can get them to you. ." I told him i wanted stage 2+ still and you stated it would be 3 weeks not a FEW MONTHS.... October 19, 2015 Emailed received again. tony states " I understand what was said but i have a list of people waiting for their stage 2+ And it would be unfair for me to let you budge in line".... ok i under stand that but wouldnt that have been nice to know that 3 weeks ago? October 22,2015 I finally caved in and said screw this. i need my car back and if its so much easier just to get my regular ordered stage 2's then lets go. November 2, 2015 FINALLY received a email with shipping confirmation.....but we are already 7 weeks past the promise date... told me stage 2's would be 2 weeks.... nope that took 9 weeks. Told me stage 2+ would be 3 weeks...nope now that would be a few months. November 22,2015 300 miles later, Bank 1 turbo is now leaking oil. Contacted Tony stating how tired i am of this, i want a full refund of this since this is going now be my THIRD turbo from him...... contacts me back and here is his reply word for word. I can attached screen shots if you dont believe me. " Kien, Honestly while i am bummed you you have another issue. Im going to say its something going on with your car. What i have no idea. We are not RB, we do not have machining issues, billet wheel problems, none of the above , any issues we had are WELL in the past. We build turbos that perform, and flat out last, period. I honestly cannot even recall the last set of stage 2's we had a report of smoking in the past year, except yours. So if your car is smoking again, its not the turbos, something else is going on. I would never blame something as silly as inlets, etc etc. I cannot say what is going on, but i can assure you its not the turbos, at this point, unless there was an install error etc, that caused oil starvation, or another issue such as something getting sucked into the turbo. With that said we cannot offer you full refund, we are not doing a recall, you an the exception, not the rule. If this was common place, then yes we would have to step up, and offer refunds, but it is not. I can offer you a 50% refund, minus Paypal fees, core, and shipping or another set. There are many questions that need to be answered, how often was the oil changed through its life, etc etc. My own personal car, had a chronic smoking problem, guess what when i swapped the motor out with the same turbos on it, the smoke went away. Same turbos, different motors, no smoke. Go figure. As far as the rattle, come on man. It has been gone over and over and over and over. THERE IS NO 100% RATTLE FIX. We put brand new robust parts on there, they eliminate 90% of peoples rattle, but if you have your tune set up so when gates are not closed the flapper sits just off the house, it WILL rattle period. All that needs to be done is adjust the WG position with the tune, and it goes way. Let me know what you want to do out of the teo options above. Tony" Alright..... well im not settling for 50% refund when these turbos are not performing as they should. i have contacted my credit card company and will be filing a dispute. Current car symptoms: - NO white smoke on cold start. - White bluish smoke when warmed up driving and coming to a stop. Idles and smoke comes out, when accelerating smoke comes out. - heavy burnt oil smell -turbo seal? took plastic trays off under car. Oil is seeping and dripping from turbo. No VCG leak, no PCV problems, No OFHG leaks.... Looked at bank 1 turbo, turned on car to idle and watched oil slowly seep from the bracket that holds the housing together.......not turbos you say tony? you either have a bad turbo seal here or a bad CHRA..... Oil is leaking from the bracket here in the yellow circle. You can see here, after wiping it down a little, the yellow circles show where the oil is coming out of. I have already confirmed that it is not coming out of the feed/return oil line. Most recent Log. Log before VTT stage 2 died. Please be cautious guys.... im now stuck with a broken car again and fighting to get a refund because i have already paid twice $1200 to uninstall and a THIRD time... If anyone can help me out some how please do.
    13 replies | 624 view(s)
  • Lswhat's Avatar
    11-24-2015, 09:35 PM
    Lswhat started a thread Max Torque Reduction by RPM in N54
    as the title states, im trying to inquire more on the max torque reduction by rpm. who here has played around with this at all? Ive tried a few different things on this and I feel like this setting greatly has an impact on 60' My assumption so far is that this setting has to do with the torque converter lock up? Someone please chime in if I am drastically wrong here, but from changing it around that's what it appears to be for me. I have done a few tests with this, and I want to know if anyone else has tried changing it and what theyre results were.
    17 replies | 358 view(s)
  • Rob@RBTurbo's Avatar
    11-23-2015, 03:36 PM
    All, We are offering our 2 new stock frame options for a limited time only with a FREE BUNDLE 1 !!! This promotion runs from now until 11/30/15! Option 1*: RB "Next Gens"- An all new highly potent and fast spooling setup for the ultimate street machine! $3,449- Billet 15T Compressor wheel/RB Bullet nut, TD04 Thrust upgrade, High flow TD04L 11-blade high aero turbine wheel/RB high heat shield, and RB high flow oil drains. Notes: 1) There are no longer any additional core charges, however there is still a $250 refund offer for returned cores. Core refund eligibility is good for up to 60 days post RB product delivery. Core return must be of same model ordered. 2) Inlets are highly recommended for this product (but not required). 3) Product is Bundle 1 or 2 option eligible. 4) All of our wastegate components are replaced with custom upgraded billet high heat stainless steel anti-wear matched materials. 5) All RB Turbo CHRA's are VSR balanced to average .1g levels (sub .2g peak) Option 2*: Super RB "Stealths"- An all new setup utilizing the largest wheel combinations possible in stock frame housings period. All this equates to an extremely powerful setup, very aggressive top end, and the best bang for the octane buck! $3,849- Billet 19T Compressor wheel/RB Bullet nut, TD04 Thrust upgrade, High flow TD04HL 9-blade high aero turbine wheel/RB high heat shield, and RB high flow oil drains. Notes: 1) There are no longer any additional core charges, however there is still a $250 refund offer for returned cores. Core refund eligibility is good for up to 60 days post RB product delivery. Core return must be of same model ordered. 2) Inlets are required for this product. 3) Product is Bundle 1 or 2 option eligible. 4) All of our wastegate components are replaced with custom upgraded billet high heat stainless steel anti-wear matched materials. 5) All RB Turbo CHRA's are VSR balanced to average .1g levels (sub .2g peak) *Forum only introductory special: For a limited time and/or quantity we will throw in a FREE "Bundle option 1" with purchase of Turbo Option 1 or 2 ;) Bundle option 1: $0 (LIMITED TIME ONLY FREE OFFER) RB High Flow inlets (fully equipped) RB N54 Turbo install gasket kit RB PCV Valve RB PCV Valve Screw-On Cap OEM BMW Vent Hose Regarding the Competitive Conquest Incentive Offer: If you can prove you have cancelled your ACTIVE VTT 2, 2+ turbo order we will give a $500 additional discount! This discount is not good for any other competitive turbo offering order cancellation, sorry. Some exclusions could apply, email for details at Recap: 1) RB Next Gens ($3,449) OR Super RB Stealths ($3,849); FULLY LOADED! 2) NO Core Charge! ($250 60 day mail-in core rebate eligible) 3) ALL orders Include RB High Flow Oil Drains FREE ($249 value)! 4) Free BUNDLE 1! (RB High Flow Inlets, Gasket Install Kit, PCV Valve, Screw-On Cap, Vent Hose)! 5) $500 additional discount for Competitive Conquest Incentive (VTT ONLY!)! Thanks, Rob
    13 replies | 738 view(s)
  • Lswhat's Avatar
    11-24-2015, 02:02 PM
    So... Ive been sitting here thinking, and I wanted to share one of the quickest and easiest ways to improve your 60' when drag racing. Its a pretty simple concept, and Definitely a DIY. hah. So here it is, One of the biggest drag racing mistakes people make right off the bat, is as simple as where they "Stage" their car. Staging, as in the two top yellow bulbs is the easiest and simplest way to improve your 60' and even as much as improving your top end mph. Staging is a series of 3 beams, pre stage, stage and guard beam. the guard beam is essentially usless to us as that is just to ensure your car isn't too low, or that you are trying to falsly trigger the top end beam. So the first beam, the prestage beam, when staging your car you want to take your time. typically I turn my top bulb on and let my fellow opponent do the same thing (Courtesy Staging) once both top bulbs on, my staging routine is fairly simple, and I do the same thing EVERYTIME. once both our cars are in the first beam I get on the converter on my car and SLOWLY bump the breaks so that I move less then an inch each bump, and I continue to do so @ 2000 rpms until the 2nd bulb (stage) is on, which is typically 7" at most tracks. and then get on my converter even harder, typically 2500-2800. But heres the catch... All of you people that blindly roll into the 2nd (stage) bulb have no idea where you are actually staging. In a perfect world you want to BARELY turn that 2nd bulb on therefore giving you 7" more of usable track, people may ask, "Why do I want to make the track longer?" and your answer is as simple as this... Your timer DOES not start until BOTH beams are fully connected again, meaning that your E.T. does not start ticking until you have moved approximately 7" So by this "shallow stage" method you will actually see higher mph, and lower 60' Your reaction time as well is recorded as soon as you technically recreate the beam, from the time the light turned green. in a perfect world you want to leave as soon as you see the last yellow light come on. I have been bracket racing for a number of years, and ill take my Camaro for example, that car does not react worth a damn. So typically I do my stage routine, but then give it 3 extra "bumps" decreasing the 7" to idealistically 4" which in return will improve my reaction time, but those 3 bumps cause my 60' to go from a 1.70 (when I shallow stage) to a 1.78 (deeper staging) and the overall E.T. will typically drop from a 11.85 @ 115mph (shallow stage) to a 11.98-12.00 @ 113.8 with a 1.78 (deeper stage) 60' You can even go as far as turning the top bulb completely off, which just means that the original "prestage" beam is back intact and your front tire is only breaking the stage beam. And I know a lot of you out there are thinking, this guy is full of shit, I dare you to try it next time you are at the track, try BARELY turning on the 2nd bulb one pass, and then the following pass deep stage and turn the top bulb completely off, I would bet you lose close to 2 tenths (.2) off of your total e.t. and at least 1-2 mph, provided you did everything the same as the pass before. I hope this helps someone!
    12 replies | 461 view(s)
  • Lswhat's Avatar
    11-22-2015, 01:08 PM
    I will start this by saying, I am very new to the BMW scene, I bought this car in early September, but have been drag racing for 10+ years. I read a lot, and barely ever post. Ive built a couple 9 second lsx cars and I decided to build something "different" so I decided to start my first "import" venture. So after a long 2 weeks of wrenching on my car, I finally got it all together Wednesday night and only had thurs night to retune and I decided to trailer the car 4 hours down to Atco dragway in new jersey, I am from Mass. I was very happy with my results! ill post the time slips below, working on getting the video from my buddy. Previous to Yesterday my best was an 11.84 @ 118 so I put myself in some debt to try to get the quickest awd 335, over the past 2 weeks I had almost the entire car apart, I will put a (*) next to what I changed since I started with a simple turbo rebuild, which ended up with an over torque and a snapped turbine, so I decided to reach out to Tony @ Vargas, and man he hooked me up! within 5-7 days of contacting him I had in my possession 2 brand new OEM CHRA's and a set of his inlets. All I can say is that the customer support I received from him was absolutely unbelievable. Everytime I sent him an email I received a response within 5-10 MINUTES. like clockwork, and I can be a HUGE PITA as I ask a lot of questions, and I basically try to do everything myself. I do believe this is the quickest 335xi? and it was also done one stock turbos! Mods List: VTT Inlets* VTT Oem CHRA's* JB4 BMS 1gal Meth (100%) BMS DCI n20 map VRSF dp VRSF 7" FMIC* Fuel it stage 1 lpfp running e55 MHD Custom base Flash by Johnny B Tuning Stock exhaust with gutted rear cats TDR Prorace 1.2 17" wheels with SNOW tires* Yesterday I made quite a few passes trying to dial the car in as its never been on a dyno, and she got faster every pass. 11.518@122, 11.43@123.99, 11.33@124.7, 11.31@124.99, 11.277@125.04, then dropped the stock exhaust and went an 11.30@125.56 spinning all of 2nd gear. The main problem I was running into, was the track prep went from good to horrible around 2pm and my last 2 passes it spun, the 2nd to last pass it spun so hard it auto shifted 2nd gear before even moving, and then the last pass it hooked 1st had a 1.67 60' and then annhialated the tires in 2nd gear, I had to pedal it, short shift 3rd and still pulled off a 11.30 A 125.56 I KNOW the car has more in it, as I really only had 4-5 runs in before I put it on the trailer and went to New Jersey. If I had to guess the weight was somewhere around 3700-3750 +/- 50, I didn't have time to drain fuel and ran it with 3/4 of a tank all day. Overall I was very happy, and have to thank Tony @vargasturbo for all of his help, and to Johnny B (JBoyorak) for his killer tune! I would expect to see this car in the 10's very soon. On this very setup, I already know where I can lose another 150lbs and how I can get the 60' to low 1.6 high 1.5x
    10 replies | 225 view(s)
  • dawhiz's Avatar
    11-23-2015, 12:21 AM
    Hi, I was wondering if anyone had any tips on getting the front dp in. It seems to be a bit of a puzzle. I know they fit as i've done this once before out of luck and a lot of time and this time around and i'm on the lot of time still but no luck yet. Does anyone have any tips on orientation, ways you pull the dp, etc to get it to fit? Rear one in but clamp loose? Do you angle it in from the corner below and try to get it up? Do you pull it a certain way and then move the rear one around? Keep o2 in the front rear do or leave it out? Can you swap it in after dp is up? I'm going to try again soon but can't seem to replicate the first time yet. Should it be this hard to get the front one in on the xi? I read that they've never had a revision to it & it has fit once so I know it's possible. Thanks
    6 replies | 166 view(s)
  • Unklejoe's Avatar
    11-24-2015, 02:17 PM
    Hello, I am working on an open source project and I figured it would be best to collaborate with as many people as possible. This project is for my N55 car, but I bet this will apply to other BMWs too (probably any BMW after 2008). The goal: Make my own progressive methanol injection controller. Purpose: Current meth controllers use different approaches for determining engine load. Some use straight boost (AEM), while others use a much more advanced approach of interpreting sensor values (Aquamist). However, all of these approaches are somewhat "inexact" in my opinion when you consider the goal, which is to inject a certain percentage of the total fuel amount at any given time. The Aquamist is probably the best (and likely more than precise enough for its purpose), but all of these kits still have the issue of installation complexity; I want to avoid tapping a bunch of wires under the hood. The purpose of this project is to create a meth controller that is both very precise and very simple to install. This is also partly driven by my curiosity. Approach: In short, I will obtain realtime engine fuel mass delivery rate data from the OBD interface and use this to drive an Aquamist fast acting valve (FAV). The 2011 E92 335i uses CANbus (500kbps) for OBD-II communications, and the car supports the UDS protocol. The fuel mass delivery rate will be requested using a standard UDS "get ID" (0x22) request. Then, once I have the fuel mass rate, I will convert it in to cc/min (taking in to account the specific gravity of gasoline). The result will be the TOTAL cc/min flow rate for the engine (which can sort of be converted to horsepower if you make some BSFC assumptions). I've created lookup tables (12 entries deep) for various fuel volume flow rates, which will allow for the mapping of the desired meth flow percentage (see MethService.h). The desired meth flow percentage (percentage of total fuel flow rate) will then be mapped to the required PWM duty cycle that the meth injector must be presented with to achieve said flow rate. There's more to it, but this is the general idea. I may update this post later with more details. Until then, see the code for details... Possible Issues: Conflicts with Cobb datalogger. Since there will essentially be two OBD devices on the port, this could cause conflicts. However, since this car uses CAN, it shouldn't be a problem. That's part of the beauty of CANbus. I do make use of the HW filters in the MCP2515 to try to reduce processing overhead for messages I don't care about, but those filters don't inspect deep enough into the message to select only fuel mass responses, so if the Cobb is using the same CAN ID, there could be issues. It all depends on how the Cobb obtains its data. Failure Modes. Special care must be taken to make sure that all possible failure modes result in NO INJECTION of meth. The Code: This project is open source and licenced under the LGPL. The LGPL was chosen because I don't want someone to simply take this code and incorporate it into their closed sorce project without giving proper recognition and support to the community. The LGPL essentially forces any changes to this code to be published openly and forces any closed source programs that make use of this code to provide a means to obtain the LGPL'd portions of the code and re-link to them. In other words, your closed source program CAN use my code, but it should be dynamically linked and you need to provide a copy of my code along with any changes you made to it. That being said, since this is the LGPL and not the GPL, feel free to incorporate this code in to your closed source project, but with restrictions. See the LGPL for more details. The Hardware: I am using a ruggedized version of the Arduino UNO for this project. It's basically the same as the regular Arduino but with a better power supply which can handle 3V-30V and is rated for extended temperatures. I am using the MCP2515 CAN controller with the corresponding transciever, both of which are part of the Jaycon CAN shield for Arduino. I am using the Arduino (OEM) 4 relay board to drive the meth pump and failsafe outputs. I am using the Arduino tinkerkit MOSFET board to drive the Aquamist FAV. This includes a flyback diode, which is nice. Progress I am able to query the fuel mass delivery rate from the ECU and can successfully interpret the values. This was done using some quick test code that I threw together just to prove the concept. Since then, I've been developing this "offline", so I don't know if the current code in the reposity works or not. The full code is basically complete, but I haven't tested it yet. I plan to drive around and log the PWM duty cycle and make sure things are sensible. Then, I will install the actual meth kit and tape the nozzle to the windshield to make sure things work as expected. Please review my code and let me know what you think. Feel free to contribute! Sorry if this post is "incomplete". The project can be found at:
    6 replies | 159 view(s)
  • shushikiary's Avatar
    11-21-2015, 08:42 PM
    So I've been chasing a few things around and I got a lot of my tuning issues figured out with making sure actual load doesnt exceed requested load, etc. Sadly though, I think I found the limit of my HPFP with 100% E85. In the log below everything is fine except once the boost gets high up there the HPFP drops down to 500 psi :(. Once it gets that low the ECU seems to pull timing across the board even though everything is great (AFR is fine, STFT's look fine, everything looks great). What's sad is that at higher RPM the pump can keep up just fine! Its in the 2k-3k RPM range that it appears it just cant keep up... which makes me a sad panda. But then again, this is at 20psi in very cold weather (yay 43 deg F IAT's!) Am I right in thinking the reason the HPFP cant keep up at lower RPM is because its chain driven from the crank and thus at that RPM it just cant move enough fuel? If so I guess it might be time for port injection, throttle body injection, or a shotgun fuel pump :(.
    5 replies | 230 view(s)
  • Terry@BMS's Avatar
    11-23-2015, 01:35 AM
    Gave the 60-130 another shot tonight at a private track with our 2015 M5. Changes since run including swapping from CM7 to CM10 nozzles, going up to straight meth, and limiting boost in 3rd gear to 24psi to give the stock tires a chance of getting traction. I might add limiting boost in lower gears is a JB4 only feature for this platform. Anyway was able to improve our time to 6.5s and on a 1% slope this time to boot. The extra fuel definitely helped speed it up. As a reminder mods are JB4, BCM, BMS intake+chargepipes, Dodson clutch packs, BMS meth (dual CM10), straight meth, ~95 octane fuel. Full factory exhaust including all factory emissions equipment. Temps in the mid 60s. You'll note this JB4 log also has AFR for both banks shown. I recently added that to the firmware with some other changes and will post that shortly!
    5 replies | 93 view(s)
  •'s Avatar
    11-23-2015, 04:00 PM
    N54Tuning Line - N54 Catless 3" Downpipes ORDER LINK Introducing the NEW N54Tuning Performance line of products.. I am happy to announce a new addition to the tuning line. N54 Catless 3" Downpipes. Its taken a while to get these to market, but we wanted to get the perfect affordable pipe out there. We didn't want the low price to compromise on quality and performance so these were designed with several important features 1) Performance 2) Fitment 3) Smooth Tapper from the Full 3" design to the factory exhaust flanges. These pipes come with a lifetime guarantee and lifetime warranty!! Features - Perfect Fit - Made from mandrel bent 3" stainless steel. - Smooth taper and bends to increase airflow through the pipe - Non Ground Welds - Hardware and Gaskets Included - Gains from 25-35hp. Application: - 2007-2010 BMW 335i - 2008-2010 BMW 135i - 2011+ N54 335IS Does not fit X-Drive Vehicles - Does not fit RHD Models
    6 replies | 181 view(s)
  • Pure Turbos's Avatar
    11-22-2015, 09:00 PM
    Another one from Brazil: N55 PURE Stg2 M135i vs "997 mk1 manual , EVT580 (remap/intake/full exhaust catless)"
    3 replies | 187 view(s)
  • exxxtacy's Avatar
    11-22-2015, 07:05 PM
    exxxtacy started a thread 29E1,29E0,29F1 codes in N54
    The other day I decided to try some E85 for the first time since I added my inline 255 fuel pump piggyback. Added about 14 gallons with some 93. Ratio was about 1/4 tank 93 and 1/2 E85. Put it into MAP 7 and tried a 3rd gear pull i felt the car hiccup and throw me into map 4. Tried it again but in map 5 and it did the same thing. Car drove normally after that till i got home. Later that day I started the car with a cold start and it had a longer crank but finally fired up, idle bounced a bit but finally settled down to normal and continued to drive normally but i ended up getting a 29E1 and 29E0 code which I cleared right away and it would come back about 5 minutes of driving. Let the car sit overnight and today i wanted to give it another shot to see if i could get it to run a log to see whats the issue. This time it had a even longer crank and it took two attempts to fire up but this time it would stall out instead of staying steady. I ended up getting the half engine light and when I scanned it with my Jb4 app I got a 29F1 along with the other two codes. It clearly isn't keeping pressure and making it stall out. Did a little research and maybe its the HPFP? any clue where to start? Im sure i ran a bit of an aggressive mixture but with the fuel setup i thought for sure it would handle it.
    4 replies | 139 view(s)
  • 4doorbmwpower's Avatar
    11-21-2015, 10:08 AM
    Let me know if anyone has one. Preferably in Montego Blue. I can not find them online anywhere
    4 replies | 113 view(s)
  • stilov's Avatar
    11-24-2015, 11:19 PM
    Great shape, handful of passes. 17x8.5 ET40, were used on a 335i so 5x120 and then whatever the BMW hub bore is. MT drag radials, good meat left. I will ship if its worth doing. Local preferred 600 shipped OBO
    2 replies | 87 view(s)
  • Fishayyy's Avatar
    11-23-2015, 10:56 PM
    Hey, I'm looking to buy some OEM (or OEM replacement) rotors and calipers (rears only) but if you're only willing to sell the full set of brakes just send me an offer and we can work something out. I'm also in need of some non-EDC rear shocks and springs. Again if you have a full set of struts and shocks that you would like to sell at the same time, just send me an offer
    2 replies | 79 view(s)
  • TTFS's Avatar
    11-26-2015, 05:54 PM
    Black Friday/Cyber Monday sale! 20% off all E46 tunes 15% off all E9X tunes 12% off all F Series tunes If you do not see your vehicle listed contact us Please share! *December 4th prices return to normal *Tunes must be completed by April 1st 2016 Located in Crofton, MD.
    2 replies | 70 view(s)
  • Sticky's Avatar
    11-24-2015, 11:53 AM
    Anyone remember when the future was bright over at Lotus Cars? Allow us to jog your memory. It was way back in 2010 when Lotus was showing off a bunch of concepts including a 2013 Esprit. Lotus had an awesome presence at car shows and was generating huge buzz with their upcoming lineup. It all fizzled out as you may have noticed there was no Esprit built for 2013. The other four concept cars they debuted in 2010 named the Elan, Eterne, Elite, and Elise also amounted to nothing more than wishful thinking. Lotus did end up producing a new Exige a variant of you see below except they do not sell it in the USA for street use. All they sell is the Evora which pretty much was supposed to be a stopgap car until they launched the new Esprit among others. Lotus did not even have their own booth but a dealer brought this Exige to the LA Auto Show. Their presence is almost non-existent. It is a shame as they produce cars for enthusiasts. With Lotus not being able to even sell their full offering worldwide it is fair to wonder if at least in the US their best days are behind them and if they even have a future in this market. #LAAS2015
    2 replies | 30 view(s)
  • HRE_Wheels's Avatar
    11-23-2015, 09:06 PM
    1970 Dodge Charger "Tantrum" Salvaggio Automotive Design x SpeedKore Performance Group 1650 HP 9.0L engine Twin Turbos (94mm each) 6 speed transmission Baer 6-piston brakes Custom full frame vehicle Custom full cage vehicle Carbon fiber fenders, valance, front and rear bumpers Custom firewall Carbon fiber seats HRE S104 19x8.5F, 20x12R Michelin Pilot SuperSports Penske shocks 20 Gallon Fuel cell with (2) A1000 Aeromotive fuel pumps Throttle by wire controls Dry sump with Peterson oil tank 12 qt
    1 replies | 109 view(s)
  • mjmarovi's Avatar
    11-21-2015, 01:31 PM
    I am selling my BMW after 2 years of ownership due to having too many toys and not enough garage space. This car has never been smoked in, has always received its maintenance on time or ahead of time, and also has a few basic upgrades done to it. It's also a Florida car! No salt rust! $19,900 OBO. NADA says $24,750, but I understand no one gets full retail and that's on a dealer lot. There is a minor scratch in driver door which didn't show up in the picture, and the rear bumper also has a mark on it. Recently done maintenance items include: - Brand new tires (literally brand new, less than 10 miles on them) - Fresh oil change - New oil filter - Alignment - New spark plugs - New vanos solenoids (timing sensors that normally go bad closer to 50k miles) No issues with car, only regular maintenance items completed. Aftermarket upgrades include: - M3 style carbon fiber spoiler - M3 sideskirts - Billet motor mounts and racing transmission bushings (stock ones are known to wear out and fail) - Mishimoto transmission cooler with black braided stainless steel oil lines - Oil cooler thermostat delete plate with upgraded oil cooler lines to black braided stainless steel lines - Burger motorsports intake (brand new) - Upgraded the halo's on the headlights to LED - Upgraded trunk light, door sill lights, and interior lights to LED - Have carbon fiber front chin spoiler that I will include upon request - Heat wrapped wires under engine cover in engine bay for extra protection - Black grille (stock is chrome) - Black painted lower front grilles (stock are silver) Thank you for looking!
    1 replies | 93 view(s)
  •'s Avatar
    11-23-2015, 10:58 AM
    Well its the week of Black Friday and its time to roll out some of our CRAZY Door Crasher deals!! N54Tuning - ER N54 Charge Pipe For Tial BOV ORDER LINK - LIMITED QUANITITIES This is a special N54Tuning Config of the Evolution Racewerks Charge Pipe. Over the last several years this has proven to be the most popular config of charge pipe when adding a BOV so we decided to stock this @ n54tuning so its ready to ship when you order! We managed to get the price down by sourcing the Tial BOV ourselves so we passed on the savings to you to get the pipe at a better price!! This pipe is compatible with all N54 135/335 equipped cars, and features a CNC machines factory C-Clip mount flange for never pop off worry. Key Features: -Increase throttle response and decreases turbo lag. -Compatible with factory diverter valves or aftermarket factory style diverter valves. -Lightweight High Grade 6061 Aluminum Piping. -Throttle body matched 3" piping. -Retains factory style o-ring throttle body lock flange. Precision CNC machined throttle body flange ensures leak free connection to throttle body. Quick and easy connection and disconnection to throttle body. Ideal connection compared to the silicone hose and hose clamp connection found in all other aftermarket diverter valve upgrade pipes available in the marketplace. -Precision CNC machined MAP sensor flange ensures leak free connection. -Diverter Valve Charge Pipe features beaded ends and T-bolt clamps to prevent intercooler piping from coming off from boost. -Factory diverter valve sound baffle, which causes turbulence in the factory pipe, is removed. -Hard anodizing helps improve durability of intercooler piping. Resists bent or dented piping. -Includes all hardware needed to install. -Developed under the harsh conditions of racing on the ER 135i Race Car. -Limited Lifetime Warranty. What you get in the box - N54 Charge Pipe with one Standard 1/8" NPT Meth Bung - Anodized Black - Black Tial BOV (optional - Must select in Drop-down Box) Can configure with Flange Only, Black or Blue Tial BOV - All Hardware Needed For Install - **This is the LONG Version of the ER Charge so it fits all cars. Its a recommended upgrade to the short 07-08 charge pipe
    2 replies | 84 view(s)
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